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Little C

Goldfish has white lip and white tail tip

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Test Results for the Following:

  • * Ammonia Level (tank): 0
  • * Nitrite Level (tank): 0
  • * Nitrate level (Tank): 0
  • * Ammonia Level (Tap): 0
  • * Nitrite Level (Tap): 0
  • * Nitrate level (Tap): 0
  • * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 7.6
  • * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 7.6

Other Required Info:

  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Freshwater Master Kit
  • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Tom Mini Internal Filter-Dive Clean 45gph
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? API Stress Coat
  • * Water temperature? 72
  • * How often do you change the water and how much? 1x a week, 90%
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Today, 70%
  • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 2.5, 10 months
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 goldfish, 2 in.

  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? Omega one protein enhanced goldfish flakes, 2x a day. Occasionally substituting freeze dried tuber worms, or frozen brine shrimp for a feeding
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? No
  • * Any medications added to the tank? No, moved goldfish to 2.5 gal quarantine tank for 3.5 days dosed twice with API Fungus Cure. Moved back to normal tank when ammonia got too high.
  • * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) white swollen upper lip, no strings. Back fin tip is white.
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as “grains of salt,” bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? No, unless white lip is fungus
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? not swimming as much. Sits in bubble wall. Recently started shaking his body, especially after moving from qt tank back to his tank.
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment: Dosed QT tank with API fungus cure and put him in for 48 hours. Then dosed a second time per directions. Left him in overnight and in the morning noticed he was darting sporadically. Ammonia tested high so immediately moved him back to his tank. Total of 36 hours in QT tank. Put ½ teaspoon of salt in home tank after I moved him back from QT tank. Dissolved salt first in separate cup of tank water.

Spaz is my first goldfish. I got him from a party. He was a center piece. I had an 8 month old 2.5 gallon mini bow tank that I kept a betta in but he had died from some sort of grey body patches. I didn’t know about cycling then. The aquarium has a tom’s mini filter in it which is a 3 stage filter for mini aquariums. I had cleaned the entire tank after my betta died but did not clean the filter media. Just rinsed it. The tank was cycled when I put the goldfish in. Spaz was about 1.5 in at the time and I did not have another tank to put him in. I figured he would be able to live a little longer in my tank than in the mason jar he was in at the party. I’ve had him for about 2 months and noticed he had grown to 2 inches. I then went out and bought him a 15 gallon tank which is still cycling. It has spiked the ammonia, just waiting now for that to go down and the nitrites to spike. I will move him as soon as it cycles. I know he should not be in such a small tank but I didn’t have a choice at the time. I noticed his lip turning white a while back but didn’t think much of it since he looked so healthy. I then noticed his left eye was getting cloudy. That is when I treated him with API fungus cure. I thought it might be mouth fungus. His white lip did not really respond to the treatment but his eye is clearer. There are no strings coming out of his mouth and it’s not fuzzy. Just white and possibly swollen a little. I am confused as to what he has and how I should treat him. Lately he hasn’t been swimming as much. He just sits in his bubble wall mostly. I named him spaz because when I first put him in the tank, he would not stop swimming in figure eights. I couldn’t get a picture of him. I did a 70% water change today because I read in the forums that that is one of the best things to do for a sick fish while I wait for help. I usually do 90%, 1x a week cuz the tank is so small but only did 70% today so I didn’t stress him out. I had changed the water last Sunday too. This last water change would have removed the majority of the salt I put in yesterday as I mentioned above. I only added 4 ml of stress coat to the water this time and I do make sure the water temp is the same before pouring in. Sometimes he flicks his body and then takes a big gulp of water. And it looks like there is a small raised scale right above his white lip. Here is a video:

http://s163.photobuc...e31dec.mp4.html

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Thanks for posting all of that information! A mod should be along to help you soon.

Out of curiosity, did you test his tank before or after the water change? Because those readings are REALLY low...there should always be nitrates in a cycled tank, I think.

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At least from the video, I don't see anything that is really alarming, and it seems he's quite active in the vid. I think that he probably needs to be treated for external parasites like flukes, but I think it will need to wait for the bigger tank. The tank at present isn't suitable for treatment.

Is he otherwise eating fine, etc.?

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I did just do a water change. Usually when i test after a week the ammonia and nitrites are 0 and the nitrate is 20ppm. That is why i do a 90% water change ever week.

He is eating normally and swimming. But I noticed some small behavior changes. He is not as active as he used to be. Just kinda hovers alot. His eye is still a bit cloudy. I also noticed something right above his white upper lip like a raised scale. I think the white on his tail tip may be increasing a bit too. And he does this little shake thing now.

Do you think I should give him an antibiotic? I dont want to mis-diagnose and then end up just exposing him to meds that dont help. Also, I dont understand how you give them antibiotics without a cycle. The antibiotics kill all the good bacteria so how do you dose them like the directions say without the ammonia getting too high?

Okay he just freaked out, tried to jump out of the water. Dont know what that was about.

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I did just do a water change. Usually when i test after a week the ammonia and nitrites are 0 and the nitrate is 20ppm. That is why i do a 90% water change ever week.

He is eating normally and swimming. But I noticed some small behavior changes. He is not as active as he used to be. Just kinda hovers alot. His eye is still a bit cloudy. I also noticed something right above his white upper lip like a raised scale. I think the white on his tail tip may be increasing a bit too. And he does this little shake thing now.

Do you think I should give him an antibiotic? I dont want to mis-diagnose and then end up just exposing him to meds that dont help. Also, I dont understand how you give them antibiotics without a cycle. The antibiotics kill all the good bacteria so how do you dose them like the directions say without the ammonia getting too high?

Okay he just freaked out, tried to jump out of the water. Don't know what that was about.

Hi Little C....Welcome to the site by the way!! :welcome

Fish have been known to attempt to exit their tanks if the water is under-oxygenated, too hot, or they are suffering from parasites.

Ammonia burns are initially white in appearance, then turn black as they heal.....a 2 inch goldfish is going to create a lot of Ammonia in a 2.5 gallon tank over a 1 week period.

I should stress, this is not a diagnosis of your problem, just a report of personal experience...

You will receive more valuable advice from a moderator soon....in the meantime, try to complete the water conditions section of the questionnaire more comprehensively. This will guarantee a more accurate diagnosis by the Mods...

Your original report recorded.....

Test Results for the Following:

  • * Ammonia Level (tank): 0
  • * Nitrite Level (tank): 0
  • * Nitrate level (Tank): 0
  • * Ammonia Level (Tap): 0
  • * Nitrite Level (Tap): 0
  • * Nitrate level (Tap): 0
  • * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 7.6
  • * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 7.6

Edited by Phillyn17

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I really don't think that he is dealing with an internal infections. Symptoms are much more consistent with water quality issues and/or external parasites.

If you are able to do frequent water changes, I am thinking that perhaps it's better to move him over to the cycling tank. Can you move the internal filter over, or is it firmly attached? If it is, you can also just move the media over.

Where in the cycling stage are you at with the 15gallon? Could we have readings for that tank?

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I could move the filter from the small tank to the big tank but the media in that filter is like a 4 inch x 2 inch sponge. Very small. The levels in the 15 gallon are:

Ammonia: 2.0 ppm

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 0

PH: 7.6

So basically i dont have a colony yet.

But if my small tank is cycled, why would i have bad water quality? I have some tetra parasite guard. Should I treat him with that? I have a microscale so I can measure out the proper amount. Will that affect the cycle at all?

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Water quality is actually an all encompassing term that includes ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates, as well as pH, and a lot of other things that we don't actually measure. The 2.5 gallon is just too small, in my opinion.

I would move the fish and the filter over, after doing a 100% WC on the 15 gallon. Then, just monitor the situation over there. :)

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I removed the carbon from my filter and put a dose of tetra parasite guard in his cycled tank. I also removed his center peice so he would have more room. I'm too scared to put him in the bigger tank. I dont want to burn him and make him sicker. I am going to monitor him for 48 hours and see if his condition improves. I'm keeping his light turned off as well to hopefully make him rest and be less stressed. Like telling a kid to stay in bed. Does that work with Goldfish? :P I'll keep ya posted.

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Looks to be fungus Alex.... to small of a tank and it looks like the fish might have cut his tail and its gotten infected... :twocents

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I have a little bit better video (i think) I wanted to post. You can see him shake a little bit at 25 through 28 seconds and then at 1:03 he actually flashes against the aquarium wall. He shakes again at 1:20 and 1:34. His lip looks like its started to shed or have some skin lift up in the center where I thought it looked like a scale earlier. Instead of it being orange it is white.

http://s163.photobucket.com/user/little_c22/media/DSCN0851_zpseac1c977.mp4.html

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Good luck! Since you have put the medications in, it's best to continue the course, although I have to say I am extremely uncomfortable with treating any fish in that small of a water volume. :(

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how do you guys treat your fish? Do you have a quarintine tank? what size is it? I measured the parasite guard tablet on my microscale. it was 5 grams. So I broke it up and measured out 1 gram and disolved it in a cup of tank water. Then poured it in.

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how do you guys treat your fish? Do you have a quarintine tank? what size is it? I measured the parasite guard tablet on my microscale. it was 5 grams. So I broke it up and measured out 1 gram and disolved it in a cup of tank water. Then poured it in.

Mine is a 12 gallon (UK) tank...luckily it's covered in cobwebs and dust at the moment. I hope it stays that way!! :carrot: :carrot:

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I use a 10 gallon QT tank.

:bingo:

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K. 10g. I'll have to pick one up. How do you medicate and keep the ammonia down without a cycle? Do you change the water every day or every other day? Most medications that I have say dose and wait 48 hours. Does that mean the medicine has to stay in there for 48 hours and you shouldnt change the water?

Spaz looks mostly the same. He is doing some figure eights right now in his bubble wall. i am doing another water change tonight. Tank readings were .25 ppm ammonia, 0 nitrite, 5 ppm nitrate. His lip looks the same EXCEPT there is a white line that is now going upward between his eyes. Doesnt look fuzzy. And for some reason I can see his nostrils really well. Maybe swollen? I'm getting ansty and when that happens I start trying all different meds. Do you think I should do another round of parasite guard or switch to antibiotics? I have many: API E.M. Erythromycin, API T.C. Tetracycline, Maracyn Two, and Maracyn Plus, Copper Safe, API Fungus Cure. Please help me not make him sicker! thanks :krazy:

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Photos please :)

Yes if the ammonia gets to .5 we do a water change and place the meds back into the tank.... :)

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It looks like this morning the line is gone. His eyes are a little bit clearer too I think. Im going to give him another dose of parasite guard and wait another 48 hours. I think the water change helped. I guess I need to do water changes more often, like twice a week. Maybe more while he is sick. Ammonia in my 15 gal is still sky high. That thing is taking forever.

http://s163.photobucket.com/user/little_c22/media/DSCN0857_zps6a3d5fb4.mp4.html

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I was just going to suggest more frequent water changes in his small tank. :) Can you get a good photo of his face? It's a little hard to make out detail in the video. How long have you been fishless cycling in the 15? Do you have a heater in the 15 and what filter are you running? Temps at about 78 or so seem to speed things up, if I recall correctly. You could try adding Tetra Safe Start--overall, it seems to have good results, though as with all BB starters, some people report no impact. Key thing is to add it about 48 hours after any dechlorinator, as the dechlorinator seems to inhibit it. Not an issue if you have had your 15 running for a bit and are not changing water (which you do not need to do during a fishless cycle).

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Its been 48 hours. Did another water change. Looks a little better maybe. His lip looks a little less white.

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did another water change after 48 hours. I think he looks a little better. Lip is not as white. that line between his nostrils comes and goes. Keeping an eye on him and may do a third treatment since it seems to be working.

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I set up the 15g on the 11th of March. So its been 3 weeks. It is def going slower and the I do not have a heater in it so that might be why. I cycled a 29g tank at 78 degrees for my tropical fish and it cycled in exactly 30 days. both my 29 and my 15 have Marineland® Penguin® Bio-Wheel Aquarium Power Filters. 15 is a size B. The 2.5 tank has a curved front so pictures and videos are crappy. the video looks better than the pictures but I will try.

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