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Maschka1

Wen problem-milky white film and pimples?

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    Test Results for the Following:
  • * Ammonia Level (tank): 0
  • * Nitrite Level (tank): 0
  • * Nitrate level (Tank): 20
  • * Ammonia Level (Tap):0
  • * Nitrite Level (Tap): 0
  • * Nitrate level (Tap): 0
  • * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 6.8 (KH is 40, GH is 120)
  • * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 6 (KH and GH are 0)
    Other Required Info:
  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API strips
  • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Penguin 330 and Fluval 305 (590 gallons/ hour- cycle tank 11.8 times)
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Stress coat, stress zyme, Leaf zone, Potassium supplement, Buffer (for Ph, KH and GH)
  • * Water temperature? 78 F
  • * How often do you change the water and how much? every 4 days, alternating 30% and 50%.

  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Water change 4 days ago and was about 1/3 the tank, then again today I did 50% change
  • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55 gallons. The tank has been running for 15 years but was moved a several months ago.
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 5 goldfish (most are very small, one is about 5-6 in) 2 clown plecos (about 1") and 2 bushy nose plecos (about 1.5")
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? In the morning they get a food I make by soaking their pelleted food (mix of a couple different high end gold fish pellets) and adding gelatin so it is sort of like a gel food. Then for dinner they eat Repashy soilent green. They also get frozen bloodworms once a week.
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? 1 fish added over a month ago
  • * Any medications added to the tank? no
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? all fish are active, acting npormal and eating
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. About 2-3 months ago I did treat for Ick. I am not convinced it was Ick, but felt it was better safe then sorry.

I am having trouble with the 3 goldfish I have that have Wens. (2 orandas and a lionhead) My large oranda had some strange wen growth about a month ago, where a section of her wen grew unsymetricaly large and sticks out funny. Since then she has had some white spots that seem to come and go on her wen. Here is a picture that shows the weird "wen growth spurt":

Lady-wengrowth_zpsc6927bb8.jpg

Is it normal for this to happen? I havent ever seen one of my goldfish have wen growth that sticks out like this. It was weird because before it happend it looked a little red underneath like she had excessive blood flow to the area and then after it finished growing, that went away. It never looked like a sore or irritated.

My husband and I went out of town for 1.5 days and as a result they were not fed for 1 day (I figured a fasting day wouldnt hurt them). When we came back she has a couple red spots that look like they may be pimples (there isnt an indentation or sore like with hole-in-the-head,from what I can tell). It looks like a bunch of broken blood vessels under the surface, and then the skin on top looks a little raised and white. Here are a couple pictures:

IMG_20130303_120034_zps74679edd.jpg

IMG_20130303_115956_zps0ce6bd6b.jpg

Any idea what this is? Should I worry? treat it? how?

Then....

My baby oranda and lionhead both have a white 'film" looking deal going on with their wen's. Here is a picture of them:

IMG_20130303_120007_zps6d7e54ed.jpg

IMG_20130303_120116_zps724e8c4d.jpg

I have noticed that the "white-ness" in the creases of their wen seems to come and go over the last few weeks. Is this something that is normal? or is it a sign of disease? are the wen issues of all three somehow related?

Like I said, above, they are all active, acting normaly, eating, etc... My Ryukin's do not show ANY signs of disease and on the three with a wen, it is only localized to the wen itself with no abnormalities anywhere else on their bodies.

As far as treatment goes, I would need to come up with the best plan as I have some problems:

1. The tank is planted so I need to pick a treatment that wont kill them, or come up with an alternate plan for my plants.

2. I do not have access to my other tanks which are in storage in another city (until we get our new house) so that means I either need to treat the whole tank or purchase a QT tank which would be a decent sized expense that I would rather not take on.

3. My large oranda is about 6" long, if I did need a QT tank for her, how big does it need to be?

**I am going to say, right now, I know my tank is over stocked. We are currently in temporary houseing and will be closing on our new home in 2 weeks. The fish have been in a smaller tank for longer then I would like (took us much longer to find a new house then I anticipated) but they were mostly doing fine until recently. I did place my larger fish in other homes when I realized we would not be able to set up the other/bigger tanks soon enough, but hoped this group could make it until we can get them back into their real tanks.**

Thanks for any advice or ideas, I appreciate it. I feel bad that they are in cramped quarters, right now, and I want to do the best I can for them. They just need to make it a few more weeks...

I have spent a lot of time researching on the internet trying to figure out what is going on, but so far I havent been able to narrow it down. I guess my best guesses are fungal, bacterial, parasitic, or normal wen growth. So ya, I would love some opinions form those of you who know a lot more then me, because I just feel frusterated and worried and dont want to treat my goldfish based off my poor diagnosis.

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Hello,

I'm sorry you are having problems. We will hopefully be able to do something about it :)

1. I am not going to harp on the overstocking issue, because you have already identified this as an issue, and are taking steps to do what you can in the current situation. That is great. :) I do have more suggestions. These wen ulcers sometimes can happen out of the blue, but when they happen to multiple fish, it's a telling sign that you will want to do filter maintenance much more frequently, such as rinsing the media. If you have charcoal, now is a good time to get rid of them, because these wen ulcers may mean that the carbon has been in the system for longer after their expiration.

2. Could you please go to goldfishconnection.com and order Medi-Gold, and if possible, Metro-Meds? The lemonhead oranda definitely needs intervention, while the ranchu may or may not.

3. Before I make other suggestions, could you please explain the difference between you tap and tank pH, gh, and kH?

Thanks

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Thank you so much for your responce. I am sick about the over stocking issue (had no intention of it going on for this long) but I am trying really hard to do frequent water changes and filter maintenance. do you think my water change schedule is OK (every 4 days), would adding another filter possibly help? My Nitrates seem to bounce between 20-40, but I check water chemistry every other day, so if they do, I can add an extra water change if necessary.

1. As far as filter maintenance, I have Ceramic "stars" and various sponges (egg crate, "normal fluval sponge", and filter floss) in my canister filter. I rinse the media in there about once a month with cool, de-chlorinated water and change out the filter floss when it looks gunky. My Penguin filter has Bio-max (ceramic rings) and a bio wheel, plus the pre-made carbon/sponge cartridges that are made for the filter. I change these outh every 2-4 weeks but they atleast get rinsed every 2 weeks (depends on how gunky they look). Should I change something up, here?

3. My Water comes out of the tap super soft and acidic. It is terrible! I thought, perhaps, this was the reason for the film on the two little orange one's heads ( due to extra slime coat associated with improper osmotic balance or some such silliness that I convinced myself of), so I started using a buffer that I got at the LFS (it is a seachem product called Alkaline Buffer which is supposed to be safe for planted tanks). I am pretty nervous about using it and have very slowly been trying to raise the pH in the tank. Before using the buffer the tank Ph could drop below 6.0. Since using it, my KH, GH, and Ph are a little higher and more stable.

Just a quick Question, do you think the white in the creases on the two little orange fish are ulcers too? they do not have any red patches like my Lemon Oranda.

Thanks again!

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Thank you so much for your responce. I am sick about the over stocking issue (had no intention of it going on for this long) but I am trying really hard to do frequent water changes and filter maintenance. do you think my water change schedule is OK (every 4 days), would adding another filter possibly help? My Nitrates seem to bounce between 20-40, but I check water chemistry every other day, so if they do, I can add an extra water change if necessary.

An additional filter wouldn't be a bad idea, and the WC every 4 days seems to be OK. I just think that you just need to rinse the filter media more often. :)

1. As far as filter maintenance, I have Ceramic "stars" and various sponges (egg crate, "normal fluval sponge", and filter floss) in my canister filter. I rinse the media in there about once a month with cool, de-chlorinated water and change out the filter floss when it looks gunky. My Penguin filter has Bio-max (ceramic rings) and a bio wheel, plus the pre-made carbon/sponge cartridges that are made for the filter. I change these outh every 2-4 weeks but they atleast get rinsed every 2 weeks (depends on how gunky they look). Should I change something up, here?

Get rid of the carbon altogether. For now, you can slit open the cartridges, and dump out the carbon. There is a link in my sig about how to assemble your own filter media for HOBs. In general, with everything else, increase the frequency with which you do it, and I think we should be OK. :)

3. My Water comes out of the tap super soft and acidic. It is terrible! I thought, perhaps, this was the reason for the film on the two little orange one's heads ( due to extra slime coat associated with improper osmotic balance or some such silliness that I convinced myself of), so I started using a buffer that I got at the LFS (it is a seachem product called Alkaline Buffer which is supposed to be safe for planted tanks). I am pretty nervous about using it and have very slowly been trying to raise the pH in the tank. Before using the buffer the tank Ph could drop below 6.0. Since using it, my KH, GH, and Ph are a little higher and more stable.

Using a buffer is a very good idea. In this case, though, I think you are better off using a combination of crushed coral (to supplement both general and carbonate hardness), and neutral regulator, which will aim to settle your pH around 7. The alkaline buffer can actually make it jump up near 8, depending on how much you use.

Just a quick Question, do you think the white in the creases on the two little orange fish are ulcers too? they do not have any red patches like my Lemon Oranda.

The white creases are normal, and can be seen very often on the wen during fall/winter. :)

Thanks again!

Were you able to order the meds?

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dnalex, thank you so much for your advice!!!

I decided to just go and purchase a quarentine tank for her. So I got a 25 gallon and she is in there now but seems really depressed. If I put my hand next to the glass she will swim over and lay down by it (which is cute, but very sad). She didnt act depressed, at all, in the big tank- I wonder if she is just lonely, or feeling worse. Is there anything I should do for her while I wait for the meds to arrive? I have salt, melafix, prazi and metronidazole on hand...

Edited by Maschka1

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Go ahead and add metronidazole to the water. Remember that carbon needs to be removed, if it's there.

Do you have instructions for how much metro to add?

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Go ahead and add metronidazole to the water. Remember that carbon needs to be removed, if it's there.

Do you have instructions for how much metro to add?

Thanks. ya, the box has instructions on it.

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