Jump to content

Dying Calico Oranda Bottom Sitting on his side


ypdmd

Recommended Posts

  • Regular Member

  • * Ammonia Level (tank): 0
  • * Nitrite Level (tank) 0
  • * Nitrate level (Tank) 0
  • * Ammonia Level (Tap):0
  • * Nitrite Level (Tap) 0
  • * Nitrate level (Tap) 0
  • * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)7.4
  • * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? api drops
  • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? 2x AC 110
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?
  • * Water temperature? 75
  • * How often do you change the water and how much? 50% once a week
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 50% about 5 days ago
  • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 110 about 8 months
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 5 4 inch fish 2 5-6 inch fish
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? frozen food once daily
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? no
  • * Any medications added to the tank? no
  • * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) floating red cap oranda moved to isolation 10 days ago
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? frayed fins, fine red streaking
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? bottom sitting, upright, eating, until today
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.

GG my calico oranda was bottom sitting the past few days, he could hold himself upright, though, and would feed normally - fins were clamped and one was frayed. I thought it may be constipation. Checked chemistry 2 days ago - all normal (0) except pH was high (8.2) - Adjusted pH down, added salt to .1%.

This morning fish ate fine. I got a text from my daughter when she came home from school that the fish was dying and getting nipped.

When I got home, about an hour ago his tail fin was caught in the filter intake and he was swimming against the suction, but couldn't get free.

I got him free and quickly set up a hospital tank in a 29 filled to 20. Currently he is in there, but no motion and lying on his side, no c shape, but slightly curved, breathing very slowly.

No filter, just bubbles and heater.

Not sure what to do next.

Only change in routine in last few days was started feeding Hikari frozen brine shrimp w/ spirulina.

Help is appreciated

Link to comment
Share on other sites

urg, fins crosed. Don't worry, things will pass somtimes. :( Dont worry, nobody wants pain, but a rainbow comes after rain. ( I saw that on lovely chaos's sig)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

If you can get a picture or a video, it would really be helpful. (:

Also, have these fish ever been treated for flukes?

fish was treated for flukes with prazi pro and had a salt bath about a year ago.

Will get you a pic, but won't be helpful, fish is lying on his side, barely breathing, with tailfin shredded, some light streaking and otherwise looks healthy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

If you can get a picture or a video, it would really be helpful. (:

Also, have these fish ever been treated for flukes?

fish was treated for flukes with prazi pro and had a salt bath about a year ago.

Will get you a pic, but won't be helpful, fish is lying on his side, barely breathing, with tailfin shredded, some light streaking and otherwise looks healthy

Poor thing ): I hope he feels better. Looks like Dr. Alex is in the building, he'll be able to help you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Hello, I'm sorry your oranda is having issues.

Is he taking food?

Could you gently feel the stomach to see how it is?

Check gills and mouth.

Do you recall him/her pooping the last few days? If so, what did it look like?

Do you have gravel in the tank? If so, how deep?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Hello, I'm sorry your oranda is having issues.

Is he taking food?

Could you gently feel the stomach to see how it is?

Check gills and mouth.

Do you recall him/her pooping the last few days? If so, what did it look like?

Do you have gravel in the tank? If so, how deep?

Gills a bit red, nothing odd about the mouth.

Did not see pooping, no gravel in tank.

Will check stomach.

Checked chemistry 2 days ago - all normal (0) except pH was high (8.2) - Adjusted pH down, added salt to .1%.

What did you use to lower the pH, and how long did it take?

Used wardley pH down, took an hour.

Hello, I'm sorry your oranda is having issues.

Is he taking food?

Ate this morning - did not try now - should I?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I'm so sorry your oranda is not doing well :(

a couple more questions to add to the list:

- what is your tap pH?

- Are you not using a water conditioner? (you left it blank)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Tap ph is usually 7.4, did not check just now.

I use prime

Just checked his belly and eating - one pellet of food got him interested, but he is very week and could not right himself and find it.

i am not used to feeling fish bellies, so I don't know what I am looking for, but in general, his belly feels like the rest of him, but IS depressable just before the vent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

If you have Metro-Meds, go ahead and put him on it.

I think there must be some internal infection brewing. The fin clamping makes me think that there may or may not be additional issues, but we can't really address that until he is at least upright.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Regarding the pH, It sounds like your pH is rising as the water ages (sometimes there are gasses in the water/pipes that lower pH, in the aquarium environment, these gasses are released and pH rises up again)

Lowering pH is typically not advised, as this can cause more fluctuations and stress for the fish than good.

A pH of 8.2 is within the acceptable range. The only thing that you will need to be careful of due to the difference in tap and tank is to not drop the pH more than .5 ppm during water changes, but a 50% water change should be fine with the differences you have listed above. The other option would be to age the water in a large tub/bin so that the pH rises there, then use that water to do the water change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Sorry to say, but GG didn't make it. He was moving around a little at 7 this morning, but he was dead by 8.

Ammonia was up to .25, not surprising.

I was encouraged by the fact that he did eat last night, but it would have been incredible if he actually made it out of this.

Thanks to everyone for their help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...