Are my readings good?

[Rojo 18]

So as some of you know I am very new to the hobby, I've seen some cycling videos on YouTube but of-course it was after I housed my little guys in their 55. So I am doing my water change today I do them every two days. I did the water test with the API test kit (not strips)

Ph: 7.4

Ammonia: 0.25 (barely made this color on the tube so might be I bit lower)

Nitrite: 1.0

Nitrate: 40ppm

I am feeding new life spectrum 1mm sinking pellets, vegetables, and brine shrimp as treats

Aqua clear 110 and ac70

Whisper 100 air pump with elite 3' bubble disk and elite square air fizz

From the videos I've seen my reading don't seam right please help. Thank you in advance!

[Narny105 1,992]

How long have you been cycling for? Nitrates is a sign of a completed cycle, which is good!

Ideally, for goldfish you want to be registering no more than 40ppm, however preferably 20ppm if possible

EDIT: Sorry, completely skipped past your nitrite reading! Jamie has covered it, though A back-to-back 80% water change should get your nitrites and nitrates back down to 0ppm. Make sure you are matching the temperature and pH of the water.

do you know your GH and KH reading?

Edited January 28, 2013 by Narny105

[JamieMonster 562]

Nitrite at 1ppm is strong enough to actually cause severe damage to your fish with exposure. You need to get that down asap. You're going to need do larger, daily water changes and dose with prime every 24 hours until this comes down. Also, add 1Tbsp/gal of aquarium salt to your tank to block additional nitrite damage, while your tank finishes cycling. You will need to re-add the salt as you do your water changes to keep it at the same level.

40ppm Nitrate is also a little on the high side, you will want to bring that down to 20 or lower with daily changes, as well.

Hang in there... you'll get it!

EDIT- a lot of ppl use Morton's canning and pickling salt from the grocery store instead of the stuff sold at the LFS as "aquarium salt"- I say aquarium salt to differentiate from table salt, which has additives that are bad for your fish. The Mortons, additive free, canning & pickling salt from your local grocery will work just fine, and is less than half the price.

Edited January 28, 2013 by JamieMonster

[yafashelli 9,540]

It takes time to find your groove, but you'll get there!

[cmclien 655]

Nitrite at 1ppm is strong enough to actually cause severe damage to your fish with exposure. You need to get that down asap. You're going to need do larger, daily water changes and dose with prime every 24 hours until this comes down. Also, add 1Tbsp/gal of aquarium salt to your tank to block additional nitrite damage, while your tank finishes cycling. You will need to re-add the salt as you do your water changes to keep it at the same level.

Just wondering, are you sure you didn't mean 1tbsp salt per 5gal of water for nitrites??

[cmclien 655]

You are more then half way through cycling your tank! thats good news. You just need to keep your ammonia and nitrites combined at 1.00 or below and dose prime daily which detoxifies ammonia, nitrites, some nitrates. During this phase you will need to do lots of water changes to keep those numbers below 1.00, even with prime. Nitrites can really spike. The good news is you have nitrates which means you have the right kinds of beneficial bacteria, just not enough of them yet, which will happen in time. You just need to keep your fish safe until the cycle finishes

[JamieMonster 562]

Nitrite at 1ppm is strong enough to actually cause severe damage to your fish with exposure. You need to get that down asap. You're going to need do larger, daily water changes and dose with prime every 24 hours until this comes down. Also, add 1Tbsp/gal of aquarium salt to your tank to block additional nitrite damage, while your tank finishes cycling. You will need to re-add the salt as you do your water changes to keep it at the same level.

Just wondering, are you sure you didn't mean 1tbsp salt per 5gal of water for nitrites??

OOPS! Nice catch, yes... 1TBSP per 10 gallons rather than per 1 gallon... the mistake would still be ok, it would put them at 3tsp/gal (there are 3 tsp/1 TBSP), but it isn't needed that high to block nitrates.

[Rojo 18]

Okay finishing doing my 80% water change, and adding a full cap of prime. I am assuming that the gh and kh are a seperate test since its not on my test kit. Also is Epsom salt okay? I was using aquarium salt from LFS but no more. Thanks for the quick responses you guys are awesome

[Narny105 1,992]

Okay finishing doing my 80% water change, and adding a full cap of prime. I am assuming that the gh and kh are a seperate test since its not on my test kit. Also is Epsom salt okay? I was using aquarium salt from LFS but no more. Thanks for the quick responses you guys are awesome

No epsom. Aquarium salt (or mortons- as long as it is only rock/sea salt)

Epsom has a completely different purpose to aquarium salt, and is used for instances such as constipation, and floating issues, and has completely different dosing requirements

GH and KH test the general hardness and carbonate hardness of your water. They essentially tell you the buffering capacity of your water, so it's always good to know these levels when needing to do larger water changes. No need to buy a test kit for them since it isn't a regular test that needs to be done. You should be able to get them tested for free at your local fish shop

Edited January 28, 2013 by Narny105

[Rojo 18]

Okay great ill pick some up tomorrow, as ar as water change next one is tomorrow right?

[Rojo 18]

Also will check my gh and kh as well

[Narny105 1,992]

What is your nitrite reading at now after the water change? I would aim to have it at 0ppm

[Rojo 18]

Okay after water change these are the readings I got

Ph: 7.4

Ammonia: seems to be 0 ppm or right under 0.25 ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Nitrate: 5.0 ppm

[GreenTea 741]

Nicely done Rojo. Cycling is a lot of work. Keep it up. You are doing great.

[Narny105 1,992]

That's good! Water changes based on your readings, please so possibly another one tomorrow. With prime in, water changes if ammonia is at 0.50ppm, and nitrite 0.25ppm. I don't think you'll be having to do this for very long, considering you are showing nitrates, however continue to monitor the parameters and the fish

[Rojo 18]

Nicely done Rojo. Cycling is a lot of work. Keep it up. You are doing great.

Thanks for the encouraging words. Trying to hang in there, I honestly feel kind of good right now

[Rojo 18]

That's good! Water changes based on your readings, please so possibly another one tomorrow. With prime in, water changes if ammonia is at 0.50ppm, and nitrite 0.25ppm. I don't think you'll be having to do this for very long, considering you are showing nitrates, however continue to monitor the parameters and the fish

Thanks brother I'm kind of pumped right now, I'm really greatful for this forum thanks to all of you for the help

[Rojo 18]

Nitrite at 1ppm is strong enough to actually cause severe damage to your fish with exposure. You need to get that down asap. You're going to need do larger, daily water changes and dose with prime every 24 hours until this comes down. Also, add 1Tbsp/gal of aquarium salt to your tank to block additional nitrite damage, while your tank finishes cycling. You will need to re-add the salt as you do your water changes to keep it at the same level.

40ppm Nitrate is also a little on the high side, you will want to bring that down to 20 or lower with daily changes, as well.

Hang in there... you'll get it!

EDIT- a lot of ppl use Morton's canning and pickling salt from the grocery store instead of the stuff sold at the LFS as "aquarium salt"- I say aquarium salt to differentiate from table salt, which has additives that are bad for your fish. The Mortons, additive free, canning & pickling salt from your local grocery will work just fine, and is less than half the price.

Thank you so much I appreciate the help I will keep you guys updated

[GreenTea 741]

Nicely done Rojo. Cycling is a lot of work. Keep it up. You are doing great.

Thanks for the encouraging words. Trying to hang in there, I honestly feel kind of good right now

You're welcome. It is hard at the beginning and water changes take a lot of strength and time sometimes. So props to you! Just being open to learning and doing the work is a big step. Hang in there.

[cmclien 655]

When you get the salt make sure you let it dissolve first either in de-chlorinated water or some tank water you've taken out. After it has dissolved then you can put it in your tank

[Rojo 18]

so here is another update i did another water change last night and the readings are the same

Ph: 7.4

Ammonia:0 ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Nitrate: 5.0 ppm

pretty happy right now the water quality looks amazing, when i get home from work i will test my water again, and if anything seems off ill be sure to ask. Thanks guys!

[koko 14,340]

so here is another update i did another water change last night and the readings are the same

Ph: 7.4

Ammonia:0 ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Nitrate: 5.0 ppm

pretty happy right now the water quality looks amazing, when i get home from work i will test my water again, and if anything seems off ill be sure to ask. Thanks guys!

Looking good ....

[Rojo 18]

Nitrite at 1ppm is strong enough to actually cause severe damage to your fish with exposure. You need to get that down asap. You're going to need do larger, daily water changes and dose with prime every 24 hours until this comes down. Also, add 1Tbsp/gal of aquarium salt to your tank to block additional nitrite damage, while your tank finishes cycling. You will need to re-add the salt as you do your water changes to keep it at the same level.

40ppm Nitrate is also a little on the high side, you will want to bring that down to 20 or lower with daily changes, as well.

Hang in there... you'll get it!

EDIT- a lot of ppl use Morton's canning and pickling salt from the grocery store instead of the stuff sold at the LFS as "aquarium salt"- I say aquarium salt to differentiate from table salt, which has additives that are bad for your fish. The Mortons, additive free, canning & pickling salt from your local grocery will work just fine, and is less than half the price.

okay so after looking for the morton brand of salt without any success i decided to buiy aquarium salt from the lfs, got home did a water change ive been doing them daily but my readings were good yesterday so i didnt but today i did another 80% water change and my readings are as follows:

Ph: 7.4

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Bitrate: 10ppm

also in addition to the two anubia plants in the tank i brought my little buddies 4 moss balls that i thought would look good in the tank i followed tithras video on how to disinfect plants before i placed them in the tank but i would love to hear if you guys think it is a good idea or no?

Edited February 1, 2013 by Rojo

[cmclien 655]

Nitrite at 1ppm is strong enough to actually cause severe damage to your fish with exposure. You need to get that down asap. You're going to need do larger, daily water changes and dose with prime every 24 hours until this comes down. You will need to re-add the salt as you do your water changes to keep it at the same level.

OOPS! Nice catch, yes... 1TBSP per 10 gallons rather than per 1 gallon... the mistake would still be ok, it would put them at 3tsp/gal (there are 3 tsp/1 TBSP), but it isn't needed that high to block nitrates.

okay so after looking for the morton brand of salt without any success i decided to buiy aquarium salt from the lfs, got home did a water change ive been doing them daily but my readings were good yesterday so i didnt but today i did another 80% water change and my readings are as follows:

Ph: 7.4

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Bitrate: 10ppm

also in addition to the two anubia plants in the tank i brought my little buddies 4 moss balls that i thought would look good in the tank i followed tithras video on how to disinfect plants before i placed them in the tank but i would love to hear if you guys think it is a good idea or no?

I would wait to see if nitrite appears again, otherwise you won't need the salt at this point if your cycle finished but its good to keep on hand as it can be used in the future for some parasites, injury etc.

Which it may have if it stays at ammonia 0, nitrites 0

Its 1tbsp per 10g if you need it (see above)

Edited February 1, 2013 by CindiL