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Ammo-Chips from API


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  • Regular Member

Hello all- I apologize if this has been addressed in the past. I'm accessing the site using my phone and can't search the forum.

Does anyone have any experience using Ammo-Chips? Can I dump them directly into the back of my Emperor 400 HOB? I do daily 25% water changes. And my ammonia is still high. Had my water tested today here are the results:

Ammonia = 0.25

Nitrite = 0

Nitrate = 0

pH = 7.6

kH = 5 degrees

I look forward to your thoughtful and helpful replies!

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  • Regular Member

you tank is still cycling your ammonia should get to 1ppm and then the nitrites should start to rise and then after the nitrates like my tank your tanks still half way through the cycle

Edited by anaru369
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  • Regular Member

Ammo chips are not necessary and can actually be a detriment to your cycle.

Are you familiar with the aquarium cycle? If not take a look at this link:

http://www.kokosgold...ustrated-video/

The beneficial bacteria (BBs) that make your cycle need ammonia to survive. Products such as ammo chips can decrease the amount of ammonia available to your BBs and essentially starve them.

Plus, products like this are just not necessary in a cycled tank. Once your tank is cycled you should not be getting an ammonia reading because the cycle will take care of it.

May I ask a few questions?

- what size tank?

- how many fish?

- how long has it been running?

- Do you use cartridges?

- have you ever had your tap tested? (tap can contain ammonia/nitrate/nitrite so it is important to know what your tap looks like)

I would highly suggest getting your own test kit as soon as you can - this is a very important tool to have even after you are cycled. The API master test kit comes with everything you need you can buy it cheapest on amazon http://www.amazon.co...t/dp/B000255NCI :)

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  • Regular Member

Hello Tithra -

To answer your questions. This is a new tank. But I put filter media in the filter from a 5 year old well established planted tank. I also seeded my new tank with water from the established tank (every time a did a water change from the established tank I added it to the new tank.

The new tank is 112 gallons. Filter is an Emperor 400 with 2 blue filter cartridges without the carbon. It also has the 2 empty filter boxes that I filled with SeaChem's Phosguard and the other one I filled with SeaChems Denitrate product. There is also a SeaChem Purigen Sock in the HOB filter. The tank is barebottomed. I seeded it with my established tank for about 3 weeks before adding fish.

Currently there are two goldfish in the tank. A large Ryukin and a medium sized Red and Black Oranda. I do 25-30% water changes twice per day.

I feed once per day in the evening (a cube of frozen food-a bought a multi pack that has 4 different varieties).

My tap water has no ammonia or nitrates present. And it comes out of the tap at 7.2 pH with a kH around 2 degrees. I buffered it with a Seachem product to get the pH to around 7.6 and a kH of 5 degrees.

I will definitely get a test kit as soon as possible.

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  • Regular Member

Thank you for the info :) It sounds like you are on the right track with your cycle, and since you seeded the tank it shouldn't take too much longer to get things on track.

The only thing I can think to suggest is to begin using seachem prime water conditioner if you are not already.

Prime will detoxify ammonia for 24-48 hours but leaves the ammonia in a form that is available to your BBs. So it can actually be used as a cycling tool, but you'll need a test kit to do this. What you can do is test your water daily for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate. If ammonia and nitrite are less than 1ppm together, you can add a double dose of prime to the tank in lieu of a water change. This allows ammonia to build up a bit in the system, which is beneficial to your cycle, without harming your fish. If ammonia and nitrite added together are 1ppm or greater, do a large water change to get the ammonia/nitrite back down close to 0 (you do have a difference between your tank and tap pH, but not enough to be concerned about large water changes). I have no idea how fast your ammonia is building up - you would obviously want to do at least a weekly water change regardless of the ammonia/nitrite readings, but this is one way to use Prime to help your cycle along :)

Alternatively, you can do larger water changes to keep the ammonia down, even one bigger (50% or more) water change (as opposed to two small ones) will make more of a difference.

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