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Help goldfish has serious fin rot.


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  • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? AQUEON 10-20 GAL
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? AQUASAFE WATER CONDITIONER, WATER CLEAR
  • * Water temperature? 75 F
  • * How often do you change the water and how much? EVERY 3 DAYS 50%

  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? YESTERDAY 50%
  • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20 GALLONS. 3 WEEKS
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2. ABOUT 5-7 INCHES
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? FLAKES 4 TIMES A DAY
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? NO
  • * Any medications added to the tank? API AQUARIUM SALT, MELAFIX, STRESS COAT
  • * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) FINROT, NOTHING ELSE I KNOW OF
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? BLOODY STRIKES, FRAYED FINS
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? CLAMPED FINS, STAYING AT THE BOTTOM
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. i have been using melafix for 3 days last month, then stopeed because it made the water brown. then i started with aquarium salt and saw it made no difference (i think i havent used the right amount) then I stopped. Then i changed the water every 2 days till now. Today, i started using stress coat.
  • * You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video. the pictures will be blurry, so im not posting any, so im going to describe it. The fin and tail rot is about a cm away from the base. Only one goldfish out of 2 has fin rot. i dont have aditional filtration so i am not going to quarantine it. Please any help would be appreciated. Thanks everyone in advance.

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Do you know your water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrates, etc)? If you don't have a test kit, please bring a sample of your water to a local pet store and have them test it for you. Ask them the actual number value, not just good, high, etc.

Is this tank 3 weeks old with a brand new filter (no filter media from an established tank)? If so, your tank is still cycling. Please view this video which explains cycling. I recommend using Prime as your water conditioner. It not only dechlorinates your water but will help detoxify any ammonia or nitrites that are in your water during the cycling process (it will help detoxify, not eliminate ammonia and nitrites).

http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/103581-the-aquarium-nitrogen-cycle-illustrated-video/

It is also important to know the pH of your tap water and your tank water in order to guide you on water changes. Your lps can also test your water for pH.

A moderator should be along shortly for further assistance. Hang in there.

Edited by fantailfan1
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If it's only one fish that's affected, and you're unsure about water quality, then you can try to apply something topically to the tail that is showing rot. I had good experience with iodine. Are you comfortable handling your fish? This is something that can be a bit nerve racking, but it's actually really simple. :) You want to remove the fish from the aquarium, and make sure he isn't going to be anywhere close to the tank. You don't want to accidentally get iodine into the water! A q-tip or a cotton ball is fine, just saturate your weapon of choice and gently swab the affected fin(s). One swab is typically enough in my experience. WCs are awesome to keep bacteria levels low, and it seems like you're keeping up with them really well.

My only other question, is the size of your fish including tails, or body only? Fancy or single-tails? :)

Oh. I also use Prime for my water conditioner. It does have a sulfuric smell, but it has been the least expensive water conditioner I have used, and it lasts a really long time. One thing with Stress Coat, is that the aloe vera in it can sometimes coat the gills of your fish, and make it hard for them to breathe.

I hope this little bit helps, and there should be someone more experienced with this to help you!! :)

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Welcome to the forum!

As fantailfan noted, the water test results are really important for us to know before we can move forward with any treatment advice. It sounds as though there is something more going on than just the fin rot given the bottom sitting and clamped fins - we need to rule out possible water quality issues before we can move on to other potential diagnoses :)

Please let us know as soon as you get your water test results. A video of your fish would also be very helpful.

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so i go ask my pet store for readings?

does medication in the water affect the reading?

do i change the water, then take a sample, or what?

Yep, just take some of the water from your aquarium (before your water change) and put it in a tupperware. Bring it to your local pet store and ask if they will test it. All the major chains offer this as a free service and the vast majority of local stores do as well.

Before you go write down these:

Ph

Ammonia

Nitrite

Nitrate

gh/kh (you may not be able to get this reading)

Ask them to tell you the exact number for each of these values, write them down and report them back here :) Don't let the store say everything looks 'fine' (they sometimes do this), ask for the actual numbers.

If you can take a sample of your tap water as well to be tested that would also be helpful (ask for the same readings listed above and write down the exact numbers).

The medication will not affect the readings.

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so i go ask my pet store for readings?

does medication in the water affect the reading?

do i change the water, then take a sample, or what?

Yep, just take some of the water from your aquarium (before your water change) and put it in a tupperware. Bring it to your local pet store and ask if they will test it. All the major chains offer this as a free service and the vast majority of local stores do as well.

Before you go write down these:

Ph

Ammonia

Nitrite

Nitrate

gh/kh (you may not be able to get this reading)

Ask them to tell you the exact number for each of these values, write them down and report them back here :) Don't let the store say everything looks 'fine' (they sometimes do this), ask for the actual numbers.

If you can take a sample of your tap water as well to be tested that would also be helpful (ask for the same readings listed above and write down the exact numbers).

The medication will not affect the readings.

Why tap also?

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so i go ask my pet store for readings?

does medication in the water affect the reading?

do i change the water, then take a sample, or what?

Yep, just take some of the water from your aquarium (before your water change) and put it in a tupperware. Bring it to your local pet store and ask if they will test it. All the major chains offer this as a free service and the vast majority of local stores do as well.

Before you go write down these:

Ph

Ammonia

Nitrite

Nitrate

gh/kh (you may not be able to get this reading)

Ask them to tell you the exact number for each of these values, write them down and report them back here :) Don't let the store say everything looks 'fine' (they sometimes do this), ask for the actual numbers.

If you can take a sample of your tap water as well to be tested that would also be helpful (ask for the same readings listed above and write down the exact numbers).

The medication will not affect the readings.

Why tap also?

do i also ask for chloramines?

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Chloramines will cause your tap water to have ammonia in it. The water conditioner will only remove the chlorine part of it, but will leave the ammonia. You can't really test for chloramines, other than testing the tap water for ammonia.

Edited by fishtankbabe
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which fins are you seeing it on? I am not seeing fin rot in this picture, but I do see some visible veins and a clamped dorsal which could be due to water quality issues. Please up your water changes as suggested in your other thread until you are able to get your water tested and/or get a test kit.

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The best thing for fin rot is pristine water. Sometimes salt or other medication is used but if you're unsure of your water parameters and/or if your tank is cycling, salt or other meds are not advised as you may have ammonia in your tank.

Edited by fantailfan1
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Fantailfan1 has a good point since they still need to know your water parameters here.

But in the meantime have you increased your water changes to every day like has been discussed? This will greatly help the damage being done by poor water conditions. Cycling is very hard on the fish and the best thing you can do is get an API drop test kit or tomorrow, since its Saturday can you get to the petstore and have them check your water? Make sure they give you numbers, if they don't ask them to write them down for you. Sometimes they will say its fine or its not but for them to help you here they will need those numbers for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, ph and kh (total alkalinity). Almost all pet stores will do this for free for you. Take in both a tap sample and a tank sample.

Edited by cmclien
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I don't want you to panic here, it's not too bad. I do see the tears in the fins and the clamping. We really do need to get your water parameters in order to move forward with a plan here because as fantailfan said, it can be dangerous to add even salt to the tank if we don't know your water parameters. Knowing your water parameters will also help us to figure out if this is just clamping/fin damage due to water quality, or if it is damage due to something like fin flukes.

I will give you a heads up right now though that if you have not treated this fish for flukes yet, it is a good idea to do so, but we will need to know your water parameters before we can move forward with that. Prazipro is the medication you will need. The chains typically do not carry this, but occasionally some local pet stores will. You can also buy it online here: http://tastyworms.com/aquarium-solutions-prazipro.html

(I would go for the 4oz bottle)

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Finally! Here are the numbers you have all been waiting for:

(I tested 2 of my tanks and tap because i wasnt sure if my other small tank was going through the cycle or not)

The guy also left little notes for me. They are goping to be in green.

Main Tank Small tank(the other one) Tap

Ph: 7.9 7.4 7.8

Ammonia: 0.5 0.3 0

Nitrite: 5.0 danger 10.0+ danger 0

Nitrate: 10 safe 40 10

GH: 300 hard 300 300+

KH: 180 120 180

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Oh my :o

What you are needing to have is

Ammonia 0

Nitrite 0

Nitrate ideally 20 or less

You will need to get some major water changes done to get rid of all that nitrite, that will be making the fish very ill.

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Your nitrite readings are dangerous for sure. They are toxic. Please do a 100% water change immediately. :please

Fortunately your tank and tap pH are essentially the same so 100% water changes are an option.

Thank you for giving us the actual numbers. Very very helpful.

Now please go do a water change. If you can't do 100% then do back to back large (80% +) WCs.

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Make sure you match the temperature as best you can also ;)

If you have a thermometer you can hold it under the tap and get a reading, otherwise a finger temp test will work too.

Do you have an easy to way to drain out 75-80% of your tank, and refill it twice? Like do you have a water changer or pump etc?

Edited by cmclien
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Thank you for the numbers! Everyone has already given you excellent advice re. changing the water asap.

Can you clarify something for me:

- Main tank = 20 gallons with 2 fish correct?

- How large is the small tank and what is in there?

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Thank you for the numbers! Everyone has already given you excellent advice re. changing the water asap.

Can you clarify something for me:

- Main tank = 20 gallons with 2 fish correct?

- How large is the small tank and what is in there?

Yes. the other one 5.5 gallons with 2 small fish in it,

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