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Guest booism

High nitrite reading! help please

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Guest booism

Hello to all!

I've been looking around these forums for a while now and have found some great info within the threads.

First time post so my apologies if I forget to supply any vital info.......

I have a 29 gallon tank that I set up a few weeks (3) ago and read all about the nitrogen cycle and how it works.

After reading about this I decided to add a couple of danios to get the cycle going and have been monitoring the

ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and ph levels daily. I used tap water treated with seachem prime in the tank. The first week or so,

the ammonia levels went up and I kept them in check with water changes, after the nirites started showing up the ammonia

has been steady between .25 and sometimes a little higher but below .50ppm. The nitrites shot up to about 2.0 and I brought

it down with water changes between 25-50%. Just yesterday my nitrite levels were very high at about 4.0ppm and I asked

the guy at the pet super market nearby and he said i was probably feeding the fish too much so I did another water change

about 80% and used a siphon vacuum to remove most of the food that was inbetween the gravel in the tank. When doin this

I found a dead danio stuck behind a bubble wand that I have in there and it seemed to have been dead for a little bit. (poor

little guy :( , So I thought he might the culprit for such high levels of nitrite and figured the levels would fall after the water change

and removing the little danio. that was last night and upon checking the water this morning the nitrites are back up to 2.0+. I

fear that these little guys are under too much stress and will perish......

I was hoping that I could get some input as to what might bring the nitrite levels up so rapidly, I have been doing almost

daily water changes to keep levels down but I'm afraid that I cant keep up!

any info or advice would be greatly appreciated!

The ph in the tank has been steady at 7.6

nitrates are reading at 5.0 ppm

and carbonate hardness is at 70ppm

I have to power filters equal to 350gph combined

and a bubble wand and disc

with larger sized gravel and a couple of beach pebbles bought at lowes just scattered around the tank.

thanks for any advice or info!

have a great day!

Roger

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Have almost all of your water changes been between 25 and 50%? You may need to do larger water changes than this to keep your water under control.

Have you tested your tap water? This would be the first thing I would do before anything else, because if you're changing out water with nitrite already in it, it of course will not be going down. Why don't you take a look at that and get back to us?

Edited by Courtney

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Guest booism
Have almost all of your water changes been between 25 and 50%? You may need to do larger water changes than this to keep your water under control.

Have you tested your tap water? This would be the first thing I would do before anything else, because if you're changing out water with nitrite already in it, it of course will not be going down. Why don't you take a look at that and get back to us?

Yes all the water changes I've done have been between 25-50% except for last night which was about 80%...

thats why I was shocked to see it so high again this morning.

I did test the tap water and the readings were:

ammonia .50ppm

nirite 0

ph 8.8

kh 100

don't know if this answers any questions.....

thank you for your reply!

also I'm gonna test the tap water again to be 100% sure because the results above are from about a week ago,

I was curious as to what was in the tap water.........

gonna test again and repost...... thank you!

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AN this is why you should do a fishless cycle. Is there any way you could return the danios? then you don't have to worry about them being stressed from the bad water and we can do this by adding ammonia instead of using the fish to produce it

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You will need to do much larger water changes. If your nitrites were at 2ppm and you did a 25% to 50% water change, you really only brought it down to 1.5 or 1ppm. So with nitrites at 5 and an 80% water change, you still onlu brought it down to 1ppm. You are really never getting it below 1. I would first do two back to back 80% water changes. This will get it close to 0 and a more fresh start to the day.

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Guest booism

Ok , so I rechecked the tap water, and to my surprise the nitrites are at .50ppm!

dont know if something changed cause got a reading of 0 a week ago!

I plan on removing the fish and continuing the cycle fishless(haley22).

Just wondering now though.....

once the tank is cycled ,and I do a water change, will I still run into the same issue?

since the new water being put in will have ammonia and nitrite present.

Is there a way of treating the water to remove the ammonia and nitrite before adding to the tank?

thank you for your help!

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Seachem Prime will help with that. My water has 1 ppm ammonia in it, and the cycle takes care of it in less than a day, which is how long Prime helps with making things more tolerable. So once you have a solid cycle, you should be fine.

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Guest booism

You will need to do much larger water changes. If your nitrites were at 2ppm and you did a 25% to 50% water change, you really only brought it down to 1.5 or 1ppm. So with nitrites at 5 and an 80% water change, you still onlu brought it down to 1ppm. You are really never getting it below 1. I would first do two back to back 80% water changes. This will get it close to 0 and a more fresh start to the day.

So 2 back to back changes? Ok . after doing this , when would be a good time to retest? would it be ok right after the change? or should I wait?

Also just realized that my tap water has nirites to the tune of .50ppm! Will my water changes be in vain, or will this be ok once the tank is cycled

and the nitrates are more of a factor? Thank you very much!

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Guest booism

Seachem Prime will help with that. My water has 1 ppm ammonia in it, and the cycle takes care of it in less than a day, which is how long Prime helps with making things more tolerable. So once you have a solid cycle, you should be fine.

Ok, sounds good, my tap also has ammonia at .50ppm, so I'm guessing the prime will help with as well, Im off to do a big water change.....

Very greatful for your time

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Yeah if you remove the fish then you do not need to do so many water changes (believe me it is MUCH easier :) )

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Yeah if you remove the fish then you do not need to do so many water changes (believe me it is MUCH easier :) )

This is true... with no fish, you don't have to worry about anyone getting sick. You DO need to track down a source for ammonia, though. You want pure 100% ammonia. People generally have the most luck at hardware stores and dollar stores or other bargain locations. It's used for cleaning.

As long as your tank has higher nitrites and ammonia than your tap water, a water change will be beneficial. :)

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There is a very big difference between your tap pH and your tank pH. I do not know if this is because the cycling is causing the change, or if your tap pH is prone to declining after some exposure to air.

Could you find out what the alkalinity, or kH, of your tap is, please?

Also, the next time, you do a WC, do a pre-WC pH measurement, and then check it again 24 hours later.

Thanks.

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Alex brings up a good point, which I missed. My water is also like that: extremely high pH out of the tap. I use a buffer (mine is Seachem Alkaline buffer, but there are many good options) to prevent my pH from falling quite so far. It gets down to about 8.2 over the course of the week, which is better than 7.6. :)

But your case might not be my case! Since pH is SUCH an easy test to do, though, it should be pretty simple to figure out how your water changes over time.

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Guest booism

There is a very big difference between your tap pH and your tank pH. I do not know if this is because the cycling is causing the change, or if your tap pH is prone to declining after some exposure to air.

Could you find out what the alkalinity, or kH, of your tap is, please?

Also, the next time, you do a WC, do a pre-WC pH measurement, and then check it again 24 hours later.

Thanks.

Hey Alex, thanks for the help, my tap kh is 5 drops or about 83 ppm

also did the tap ph and its 8.8 .

will do a water change tomorrow so i will check ph before and then 24 hours later as well,

will repost results at that time.

thank you all for your help

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Guest booism

Ok, so ph in the tank was 7.6 before a wc

24 hours later was at 7.6 as well, is this not good? I had read that 7.6 is a good ph for goldfish.....

been doing many water changes since the pet store will not take the danios back, been keeping the water as comfortable as

possible for the little fellows :)

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A pH of 7.4-7.6 is quite decent :)

What are the rest of your readings?

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Guest booism

A pH of 7.4-7.6 is quite decent :)

What are the rest of your readings?

Alex,

I was out of town all day saturday and got back home late last night and

the nitrites were crazy high so first thing I did was a big WC (80%)

the readings were:

pre WC

ammonia .25ppm

nitrite about 5.0ppm

nitrate > 10ppm

ph 7.6

post wc

ammonia <.50ppm

nitrite <.50ppm

nitrate 5.0ppm

ph 8.0

also water temp has been between 76-78

one question, Since my ph from the tap is higher than my tank ph, should I be using something to match the tank ph

before adding the water? I did test the ph before a WC and after 24 hours and it leveled out to 7.6 , which has been

the ph in the tank since I set it up.

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Bringing the pH down is more difficult to maintain than bringing it up, from what I have heard. I have a similar issue, and when doing research a while ago, I decided the best thing to do would be to buffer the incoming water so the pH didn't fall as far. 7.6 is a great pH but goldfish do well in pHs higher than that as well. All raising the pH involves is adding a buffer product when you do a water change. I use Seachem Alkaline Buffer but many other good options exist.

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Guest booism

Bringing the pH down is more difficult to maintain than bringing it up, from what I have heard. I have a similar issue, and when doing research a while ago, I decided the best thing to do would be to buffer the incoming water so the pH didn't fall as far. 7.6 is a great pH but goldfish do well in pHs higher than that as well. All raising the pH involves is adding a buffer product when you do a water change. I use Seachem Alkaline Buffer but many other good options exist.

ok great, I will use a ph buffer when doing a water change, thank you for your advice

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