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Ugh...ich!


tnorandagal

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I'm posting from my mobile phone so I can't see the questions, however I will try my best to answer from memory. :)

Ammonia: 0

Nitrites: 0

Nitrates: 10

Test type: drops

pH: unknown, out of the solution

Temperature: 74F

Filters: Eheim Ecco 2235 and Fluval 205

Tank size: 29g

Time tank has been up: 2 years.. 1st year as tropical, 2nd year as goldfish

Inhabitants: 2x oranda, 1x rubbernose pleco

Last water change: Monday, due for a weekly water change this Monday. I change 80% weekly.

Recent changes: began the process of removing some substrate to increase swimming space. Had way too much in. Removed some from a third of the tank, planned on removing in 1/3 increments every 2 weeks.

This is only my second time encountering ich in my entire 10 years of fish keeping, and first time with goldfish. :(

So far, everyone is happy and healthy. Pleco is getting fat from algae/driftwood, and goldfishes are alert, playful, and rooting. Goldfish eat 2-3x pellets per day of New Life Spectrum goldfish food.

I also supplement their diet with algae sheets. Today I noticed them ravenously poking at the clamp so I put a fresh sheet on and that's when I noticed my chocolate oranda has approximately 3 or 4 flecks of salt. I am immediately able to diagnose it as ich because I've dealt with it before.

Everyone seems healthy so far. So I am at a loss with what course to take...meds or salt. :( I don't have any thing in the tank that would be damaged by either.

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Will you post a video or pics of the spots when you are able? We need to confirm that it is indeed ich, as there are other things that can look similar.

Were there any new fish added to the tank or new plants etc?

In the meantime you can start by salting the tank to .1% (1 tsp per gallon)

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When it comes to ick we are going to want to up the temptature to 80degrees this will quicken then life span of the ick. We then want to salt up to .3% doing .1% every 12hrs to reduce a cycle bump ;)

Tithra makes a good point :)

Edited by MissColonel
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Salt is the way to go with ich. But I would remove the pleco before treating. I had 3 plecos die from just .1% salt and one swelled up like a balloon.

Try to find Morton's canning and pickling salt. This salt is finer than aquarium salt and 28 teaspoons of aquarium salt is equal to about 21 teaspoons of morton's weighed out.

Edited by ashlee18
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Thanks for the rapid replies. I will try to get some pics here in a bit, will be hard though as they are always fluttering about. Lol. And the newest fish is the pleco, but I've had him about a month now. No new plants.

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ajuhepa5.jpg

I doubt these will help any. There was a lot of glare due to the glass being kinda dirty (oops) and my cell's cam stinks. It seems like there's an infestation of spots, however, only the brightest is an actual spot on the fish. Sorry. :( there are 2 spots on his right anal fin and 1 spot behind his wen in addition to the spot shown above.

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I have started the process of raising the temp to 80F. I will start the salting process this evening, raising it to 0.1%. Goldfish continue to act normal, no bottom sitting etc. I can't remove the pleco because I need to treat the main tank, unfortunately.

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I have started the process of raising the temp to 80F. I will start the salting process this evening, raising it to 0.1%. Goldfish continue to act normal, no bottom sitting etc. I can't remove the pleco because I need to treat the main tank, unfortunately.

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the pleco really does need to go in his own tank (you can use a storage tub if you don't have a separate QT tank), he will more than likely not be able to handle the .3% salt we will eventually need to get to in order to treat.

Is there a way to get clearer pics by any chance? (anyone have a camera you can borrow? I know its difficult on a cell)

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Plecos are usually not ich carriers because of their lack of scales. That is also what makes them much more sensitive to salt.

In all my years of fish keeping, I've never had an ich attack return after adding a pleco back into the tank after treatment.

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I'm going to purchase a QT tank today and use the already cycled water from the main tank if that's the case.

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adding water from the main tank to the QT won't do any good, as it's not the water that is cycled, it is the filter media that is cycled. So if you want to cycle the QT, just steal a little filter media from the main tank filter to seed the QT filter with :)

Check out your local petco, some are having their dollar per gallon sale right now

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D'oh. I knew that.

I groom at a local pet store and the tanks are on sale here too so I'm going to get one :)

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perfect! Keep us updated on where you are with salting :)

You are also going to want to do frequent water changes. Daily changes (50-80%) if you are able, if you absolutely can't swing daily changes for whatever reason, aim for at least every 2-3 days, and vacuum the gravel well. This will help to cut down the population in the gravel/water :)

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I will have to start salting tomorrow as I have a ton of stuff to do today and won't be able to monitor the tank. Today though the tank is at 80F and I've increased aeration. Am home now, and everyone looks happy/healthy so far besides the obvious. Only one oranda is showing the ich spots, so far the orange one is no worse for the wear. I am not sure I will be able to do 80% every day, but 80% every other day is definitely do-able.

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Update: ran a master test kit reading (liquid drops from API). Ammonia: 0, NO2: 0ppm, NO3: 5ppm. Tank at 80F, 0.1% salt. Will perform 80% water change tomorrow before I increase salt to .2%. Oranda seems eager to eat, but bottom sits every once in a while. First time bottom sitting has been observed. Also observed some flashing.

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How is the ich? I'm not sure if this has been asked before, but have you treated for flukes? Unfortunately, if there's ich, there's likely to be flukes as well, and you will need to treat.

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No, I've not treated for flukes recently. Its been a few months. The ich is definitely "thriving" in the heated water. I thought you move up in percentages every 24 hrs. I swear my mind accidentally read that. :rolleyes: Oops! So now I'm straight about upping it every 12 hours. I hope this isn't a stupid question, but after I do 80% w/c, how much salt will I need to put in to make it .2%? I will up it tomorrow when I get home from work so that I may observe them. And now I guess I will address the flukes by buying some PraziPro on Friday when I'm paid.

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If you've treated for flukes before, then it may not be necessary to treat again so soon. The flashing of course can be consistent with irritations from ich.

Let's make this a bit easier. Raise the salt to 0.3% first, and then start doing WCs. :)

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Ok :) I forgot to report that I found some test solution from another kit and my pH is 7.2. Is that satisfactory? Fish seem to be handling 0.1% well. More bottom sitting from the heavily infected oranda. The other one keeps poking his belly as if to say "let's go!" and occasionally they will swim off together. Offered the usual food of pellets & algae yesterday, both ate eagerly, thinking about fasting them 'til we are up to 0.3% and the WC.

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Try to find Morton's canning and pickling salt. This salt is finer than aquarium salt and 28 teaspoons of aquarium salt is equal to about 21 teaspoons of morton's weighed out.

Hello, not trying to hijack this thread! But I just read this and I always use 1tsp per gallon of the pickling salt, is this not correct? I thought in all the threads I read it was 1tsp per gallon? Or is it that you use more of the aquarium salt then 1tsp per g?

Edited by cmclien
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