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kerry123

Goldfish Anchor worm

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Something like this

PD1_19481004.jpg

Without lid, of course.

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oh i see. Yeah I can definetly get one tomorrow. But then it will not have any filtration system, will that be okay?

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Do you think your filter won't be able to hang on the wall of the tub, or is it because the filter actually come as part of that smaller tank?

Even if you don't have a filter, you should be OK, provided that you:

1) Do 100% WCs daily.

2) Use Prime as the water conditioner

3) Have some good airstone action going in the tank :)

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ya the filter comes as part of the tank, so it's fixed on there and I can't remove it.

But will 100% wc daily stress out the sick fish more? and also because my tap water contain's little bit of nitrite as I've told you before, so if do 100% wc daily without a filter and active bacteria in the water to remove the nitrite from tap, I'm afraid the nitrite level will go up.

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Could you remind me how much nitrite is there in the tap?

In any case, unless this number is really high, Prime will detoxify it, and you should be fine. :)

100% WCs is probably a little stressful, but the benefits of new fresh water far outweighs this. In fact, one of the tried and true methods used by many Asian fishkeepers is the bucket to bucket method, where the fish is moved to a bucket of fresh water daily, or even twice daily. :)

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You should be fine! :)

I would pick up a bottle of Prime to use as your conditioner, instead of the Stress-Zyme.

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I'm using Prime at the moment, had given up on stress zyme long time ago since you've told me before that Prime is the best conditioner to use :)

Also I have the plastic tub you said at home as dvd storage(of course I will be buying new one for the fish), but these plastic tubs always have this plastic smell which I'm not sure if it will be harmful to the fish?

Edited by kerry123

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When using plastic tubs as temporary fish tanks, look for the designation that they are food safe. I just did a quick search for available types of containers that are food safe in Australia, and found that the Starmaid Storemate types of containers are food safe.

There are two that I think would suit your purposes very well. One is 30L, and the other 45L

http://www.starmaid.com.au/product/30l-storemate

http://www.starmaid.com.au/product/45l-storemate

I think the 45L would be better, because it will hold more water, but the 30L should work as well. :)

When you fill up the water, use 2x the recommended dosage of Prime, and you are all set.

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thanks for that! following the link given, I've found a store near my place sells that and its in stock in store as stated in the online shopping thing, will go and get it tomorrow :)

also can heater be placed in the plastic tub?

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yes, you can place the heater in your plastic tub as long as it's got the bracket with the suctions on it. that will keep it away from the plastic. the temperature of your qt tank will need to be no lower than 28C no higher than 30C.

dosing the epsom salt. that is ONLY 1/4 TEAspoon per 10 gallons of water. so it is important you understand how many litres the tub is so that we can accurately administer medication without risk of overdosing. epsom is used in such little quantity, but that used is highly effective. i would also advise that you try to keep the PH stable, so please check it daily. when i was using buckets, for some strange reason, the PH kept dropping. if you have baking soda, that should keep the PH stable from water change to water change in the qt

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Yes, you should be fine with the heater in there. The melting point of plastic is far higher than anything an aquarium heater can achieve. The heater package will have those suction cups that you can use to hold the heater in place.

Edit: Helen posted at the same time, and gave a far more detailed answer than I. :)

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lol thanks guys for the reply.

Just one more question, I've placed the thermometer into the main tank during the water change today, and the temperature had been a stable 17 degree celcius. Do you reckon I need a heater for the main tank?

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17 is a bit cold, and while goldfish are OK with those temps, cycle bacteria do better a bit warmer. Perhaps a heater with a cut off point of 20 degrees would be helpful? :)

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ok will get one then. But had a look at the aquarium store website I always visits, it has different heater watt for different tank size:

55W is for tank size up to 55L

150W is for tank size up to 150L

Since my main tank is 40 gal, I will be needing the 150W heater. But the plastic tub will only require 55W heater, does that mean I will have to buy 2 separate heater? or can I use the 150W for the plastic tub and after treatment move the heater to main tank?

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You can use the 150w for the tub, and then move it to the main tank when you are done. :)

Also, we can follow up on this more tomorrow, but the red cap is now the sole inhabitant of the 40g, right? If that is the case, we will have to do something to keep your main tank cycled while he is being treated in QT. That should be relatively easy to do! :)

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the red cap isn't the only fish in the main tank at the moment. I have one more fancy in there which is doing good :)

and yup will keep the main tank cycled while treating it!

Thanks for the help~ will buy the veggies, plastic tub and heater, and weight the fish tomorrow (so much to do, gonna be a busy day!) and post on here ;)

Edited by kerry123

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I'm sorry about the dropsy fish. I hope you've isolated him/her while attempting to treat.

on having a cycled tank!

Nitrates of 5 ppm is very decent. The goal is to have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and nitrates below 40 ppm (20 ppm is even better!) at all times. When the nitrate gets to the higher side, a big WC is in order. However, even if your nitrates are low and it has been one week since you did a WC, then it's time for another. Make sure to match pH and temp

What happens when Ph or temp is not the same? Does 2 degree celcius matter? Thanks

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When they are not the same, it can stress the fish, or if the pH is really different, it can cause more harm than that.

You can check your temp by doing the finger test. If it feels the same with your finger, it should be OK :)

Is there a difference in pH?

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ok so I've just weight the oranda and its 38g(maybe a little bit less since I used a net to take the fish out and there might be water on the net... so lets make that 37g?) :)

also I used the method showed by Helen's video by using tank water, and once the fish is in the container it start floating on its side(kind of like loss of balance to me), I don't know why it did that as the water are straight from the main tank... will it be that its scared? the whole process only took like 5 minutes. And once its back into the main tank, its normal again...

Edited by kerry123

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Sounds good. Now we wait for meds to arrive, and that should be tomorrow :)

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Yup cant wait :D

But since the oranda gets scared so easily... I'm kind of scared that it will start floating sideways in the plastic tub... (I bought a 30L one today as I figure the 45L is a bit too big and will be difficult to change water without some help)

P.s like last time I was plucking the suspect anchor worm out of it and it struggled so much and once it's let back to the tank, it dive straight down and haven't came up for like so long...

Edited by kerry123

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He'll be fine :)

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Lol ok then. Will let your guys know asap when I got the med!

Thanks!

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Hi, still waiting for the med to arrive. But just want to ask something:

once the med arrived and the gelfood has been made, do I need to pre-heat the water in the plastic tub with the heater to the desire temperature and then put the fish in? or do I put the fish in first then turn the heater on so that the fish won't get shock from the temp difference?

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