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kerry123

Goldfish Anchor worm

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ANCHOR WORM is the common popular name . it is not a worm. lernaea is the name.There are many ways to treat it and what you are doing is very good. I also do it that way sometimes. Depends upon the final objective.

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But in my picture I don't actually see the "anchor", does lernae always have anchors?

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i have found and photographed several types , some show "classic" perfect anchor others are like yours i will give you a link later to the pics or you go look at parasite sub album in my p bucket in sig.to see them . yours is a very nice picture too.

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Kerry, did you do another WC? Just for future reference, whenever you see another anchor worm, do a big WC, and make sure to vacuum the tank floor thoroughly. Then, replace salt.

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Ya did another 80% water change then added more salt in, however last night i think the other worm(not the one in the pic), I accidentally plucked out half of it... Will the other half stay in the fish's body or will it fall out eventually?

And thanks for the reference mikroll!

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The other half will eventually get taken care of by the fish's immune system. No worries about that :)

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Ok thanks, i have one more question, yesterday when I did the water change, I add the same amount of prime(based on tank volume) into the tank like the water change I did the day before. Is that correct? Can I put that much prime in two water changes within 2 days?

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Yes, you should be fine. Remember that Prime only lasts between 24-48 hours, and had there been any left from the day before, it would have been taken out with the WC.

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all the wounds on the fishes are all fine now, mostly healed good :)

However just now I tested my water again and ammonia is still 0, nitrite is still very high...

What I am thinking is that I have a hospital tank with filtration system which had been running for 3 weeks now without fish in it (I set up this hospital tank just in case any of my fishes got really sick and has to be separated), I tested the water in that tank and ammonia and nitrite are all zero. So since I am not using the tank, can I move the filter to my main tank? Because I think there might be enough good bacteria in the filter that can help to lower the nitrite level in the main tank.

p.s the hospital tank filter is smaller than the main tank filter, main tank filter has two cartridge but hospital tank only has one.

Edited by kerry123

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You can try to do that. After 3 weeks, there might not be much left on it, but worth a try :)

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so do I have to move all black sponge, ceramic noodle and carbon cartridge in the filter from the hospital tank to my main tank?

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I thought you were bringing the entire filter + its contents over.

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I don't think I can move the entire filter as it is build in to the hospital tank...

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Ah, OK. Then you really only need the ceramic noodles. Can you fit them into the main tank filter?

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ya there's plenty of place left, so I don't need the black sponge and carbon cartridge? because there arent much ceramic noodle in the hospital tank filter as they only gave me enough of them for the tank.

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You can bring over the sponge, too, then, if there is room :)

The carbon should just be thrown out.

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ok will do that.

And I'm planning to buy more ceramic noodles to put into my hospital tank (maybe ill get another sponge too), just wondering is there a limit to how much ceramic noodle can be put into a tank's filter?

Edited by kerry123

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As long as they are not packed too tightly, you can basically fill it up. If you want opinions, take a pic and post :)

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ok will do another water change tonight and put them into my main tank filter, will post a photo after that :D thanks!

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sorry didn't have the chance to put pic on here, been very busy lately!

but just an update, 2 days ago I tested the water again and finally nitrite level is down to 0ppm!

So now I have 0 ammonia and nitrite, and a bit of nitrate (about 5-10ppm).

However there's a sad news: one of my fantail is dying of dropsy at the moment, now completely float on its side in the hospital tank without interest in food... still breathing but I think there isn't much I can do at the moment. I guess it developed dropsy due to the high nitrite level in my tank before(although it does look different the day I bought it with its fins clamped), it had its scale sticking out and tummy bloated for about 3 weeks already, but it had gotten better about 2 weeks ago after some epsom salt bath and some antibiotics (almost completely healed I'd say), but 3 days ago, it bloats again, this time epsom salt didn't help.

I've start feeding the other fishes microwaved frozen-peas once a month as a meal because I heard that it helps with their digestion and stuff.

Also just wondering, will the 5ppm nitrate be any harm to the fish?

p.s no more anchor worms have been found.

Edited by kerry123

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I'm sorry about the dropsy fish. I hope you've isolated him/her while attempting to treat.

:Congrats: on having a cycled tank! :)

Nitrates of 5 ppm is very decent. The goal is to have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and nitrates below 40 ppm (20 ppm is even better!) at all times. When the nitrate gets to the higher side, a big WC is in order. However, even if your nitrates are low and it has been one week since you did a WC, then it's time for another. Make sure to match pH and temp :)

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Thanks. And yah I've isolated the dropsy fish to the hospital tank while doing the epsom salt and antibiotic treatment, and once it got much better before, I put it back into the main tank and it was all well for a week or so when the dropsy came back.

the ph is all maintained at around 7-7.5, however I still can't get the temperature part right. Since it's winter here in Australia, the temperature during the day and night can have quite a big range, I do not have a heater in the tank since I heard that goldfish can tolerate the temperature in winter. But I'm just worried that the change in the water temperature over the day will affect the fish and cause some diseases. So just wondering if I actually need a heater in goldfish tank? (because the coldest days in winter are not here yet)

p.s I always do the water change during midday when the temperature is at the highest(only in winter) so that the new water added into the tank wont shock the fish as much as changing at evening.

Edited by kerry123

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I think that goldfish should do fine with some temp fluctuations between day and night, although I still don't think that this range should be too high. Having a heater in the tank, to ensure that the water is always at least 20-22C, is not a bad idea. That range of temp is actually ideal for a goldfish tank, both for the goldfish and for the cycle bacteria :)

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