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  1. Yesterday I received my two new Oranda goldfish. I’m a bit concerned about one of them, he has these large white spots near his eyes. Some background the seller had mentioned he got a bit beat up by another goldfish prior to the sale, and his wen had been damaged. Knowing this I prepared my tank with aquarium salt and purchased some Paraguard knowing he’d be more susceptible. When I received him he has these white spots near his eye. I thought they may be ich but they seem to be bigger and a little fuzzy. Is it fungus? For now I’ve been doing daily partial water changes with aquarium salt and a half dose of paraguard as I’m scared they may have negative effects to it. Thanks in advance! **the speckles on his body are sand, he got a bit of sand on him during the water change
  2. I seem to have gotten myself into a bit of a pickle by taking on some sick goldies. I have a black moor and a fantail in a 20g (I'm aware this is too small but they're only 2in at the moment and I'm looking for something bigger) with 2 sponge filters and an internal filter. Surprisingly, my water quality is pretty good, I do an 80-90% w/c every 5 days. When I first got them, they were suspected to have gill flukes and I treated them for it with praziquantel. However, they still gasp at the surface. Over the past few weeks, I've noticed that their poop has turned clear/white- I feed them soaked saki hikari purple bag as a staple and peas before I do a w/c. I'm pretty new to this hobby and have found out that white poop can sometimes be a sign of internal parasites. Would it be wise to medicate their food with praziquantel? If so, what dosage should I use? Other than the gasping at the surface and white poop they seem fine and still love their food. Any advice would be accepted as I don't want to end up losing the little guys. Thank you in advance.
  3. First off, I apologize if this is in the wrong section. Now, on Thursday I began treating my goldfish with Hikari Prazipro in preparation for his eventual move to my new bigger aquarium. I wanted to make sure he was as healthy as possible and free from parasites before I moved him into his brand new home. I'm SO GLAD I decided to do this, because tonight after I was finished with my daily water change I noticed this THING floating in the tank water. I quickly grabbed a pipette and sucked it up and put it into a test tube (I know I'm weird for just having test tubes in my house). It's clearly some type of disgusting worm, and it's about 2" long which is longer than the body length of my little goldfish It looks like it's kind of flat and wide on one end and pointed on the other end. Does anyone know what it is??? I'm assuming I should just continue the prazipro treatment? I'm doing three days with meds and two days without, how many cycles do you suggest I go through? Because my tank still isn't cycled I have to water change every day so I've been changing 90% of the water (with gravel vacuuming) every day, and then I read the whole dose of prazipro to the tank after the water change. Except for the two days when I water change without adding any of the prazipro back into the water. So nasty
  4. Hi All, I've come across basic info on hydrogen peroxide dips for goldfish to treat flukes. Just wondering if anyone had any experience/advice? I'm struggling with a stubborn infestation! Thanks!
  5. I wanted to start a new post about Anchor Worms and my experiences with various treatments, as I think it will be a help to others. There is not much general information out there online about Anchor Worms (Lerrnaea) as they have not been as common of a problem as say Ich or Flukes. I believe that there will be more of a need-- especially with outbreaks taking place at large retailers- and those purchases ending up in the home aquarium. My topline judgment, for those who do not want to read my pontifications, is: If you see one anchor worm on your Goldfish- Please Order the Dimilin X Pond treatment immediately, so you have it, as the infestation will get worse. Its $25 American Dollars on EBay. (Credit for this information to Shihpuff who has also posted on this forum). Most likely the inside of the fish’s mouths and gills will also have the worms attached to them in- either in the invisible larvae or adult form. (Gross!) Dimilin is the only treatment that has worked for me- more on that and the treatments that did not work- later. Anchor Worms are brought in from the outside- and fish do not need to be stressed or be in poor water conditions to have them. I was foolish not to quarantine a fish from Pet Smart which then infected my entire tank. My water conditions were perfect, and I had a very light bio load, so there were no other stressors in my tank to make this parasite worse. I, in turn, made the situation worse, and lost time with a misdiagnosis. Some key observations that got me confused as to what it was I was dealing with: -An anchor worm infestation can mimic fluke-like symptoms- with bottom sitting fish, lethargy and a general sadness of the population. There is so much information on the web about flukes- with good reason- but that hype made me jump initially to the wrong diagnostic conclusion! -Even if you just see one or two Anchor Worms on the outside of the fish- the gills and inside of the mouth is also probably heavily infested- especially if your fish are showing lethargic behavioral symptoms. The invisible larvae also house themselves in the gills of fish, so if you have an adult AW in the tank, chances are you’ll have young Klingons that you cannot see festering in the gills. In sum- You may have them multiplying in areas that you cannot or did not think to previously observe! My Treatment Notes: -Fluke medicine (Prazi) and the API’s Parasite Guard will not address Anchor Worms, even if other sources they say they do. The API Parasite guard simply damaged my filters instead. I have Prazi on hand at least - if I should ever get flukes in my tank! -There is a solution on the market that treats the ‘conditions’ caused by Anchor Worms- but it does not take care of the worms themselves, Please read labels carefully! -Salinity was increased in my tank to 3 TSP / gal- (just under 3.5 of AQ Salt total cups for a 55 gal tank) while this helped with preventing infected wounds & secondary disease caused by the Anchor Worms- it did nothing to control the worm population or their spread. This is also a common statement/solution on the web- which did nothing for my situation. If I were to do it again I would still salt but probably at 1.5-2 tsp per gallon- as 3 tsp per gal is very hard on the bio filter. -The heat was turned up to 79F- to help speed the lifecycle of the worm, this probably made them spread faster- but I wanted them to move through their lifecycle so the treatments I was using would also work sooner on the eggs and future larvae, coming up through the ranks. I’d still recommend increasing the heat during treatments. -1 methylene blue dip was done per day on the fish at 1 TSP per 5 gallons for 30 minutes- I believe this helped with secondary bacterial/fungal prevention but it did nothing to eradicate the worms attached to the the gills, mouth and outer scales. I’d still recommend doing this for lethargic ‘sad’ fish as this helped pep them up a bit. Methylene blue is a mild anti-fungal/bacterial agent that also helps the fish with gill function and oxygen absorption. - Minn Finn, is a Peracetic acid based medication that is left in the tank for 30 min (up to an hour if the fish can handle it) with a neutralizing solution to clear the medication at the end of the treatment period. It states it will control Anchor Worms in 2-3 treatments. Nope, nope and nope. I used this as directed for 1 hour over 3 treatments/days as directed- and it simply did not work. This killed my bio filter from kinda dead -to D.O.A. Now my notes on Dimilin: Dimilin X is the only thing that worked on this parasite. Because Anchor Worms are crustaceans they go through several life stages where they molt their outer skeleton. Dimilin is an Insecticide, NOT a medication. This insecticide interrupts the molting cycle of the worm- not killing it right away- but killing it as it moves through its lifecycle and molts its exoskeleton. In my online ‘research’- it’s the only real guarantee out there for getting the job done. There are university studies done on it for aquatic agriculture. Dimilin is not going to be sold in a big box pet chain store- nor will it likely be in your local indie fish shop. I wouldn’t even try looking for it. You might find it at a specialty koi pond store, if there is one in your area. Its really marketed for larger ponds and for treating koi. The word ‘Insecticide’ sounds scary, but Dimilin is much safer to humans and fish than Formalin, Potassium Perm and other really harsh nasty treatments on the market. Please don’t waste your energy, money and time with other ‘cures’ that say they will work, you’ll just lose equity and valuable time. It’s also noted on the label that it will not stress or harm the bio filter in a system- another huge plus! I used Dimilin X- based on the dosage of 1 TSP per 500 gallons. Have a friend in the hobby? Split the cost as it’s a very very concentrated formula and again is formulated for ponds. I calculated this to a little bit less than 1/8 TSP for my 55 gallon tank! The first 24 hours after treating with Dimilin there was no noticeable change in behavior or the number of attached Anchor Worms- this is understandable as the insecticide is systemic and focuses on exoskeleton formation. It will not kill the parasite immediately. About 30 hours (1.5 days) later- the fish started acting more alert and more like themselves, with more active swimming, attentiveness and less sadness. I caught the fish and noticed that the Anchor Worms attached to the fish were still slightly attached- but appeared to be dead. The ends of the worms closest to the fish’s body looked to me to be almost disintegrated- 'slimey' instead of solid. The worms pulled off with very little effort or discomfort to the fish. When pulling a live anchor worm off a fish- you need a strong tug and the will to pull them out! 48 hours later (2 full days) the fish are acting almost normal- with active swimming and the desire to eat. One of the fish- hit the hardest with bite wounds is still being dipped in meth blue on a daily basis. A couple of worms are still attached to one of the fish but appear to be hanging on dead. 60 hours later (2.5 days) the fish are acting normal- no sign of the attached worms on anyone that I can see. So finally in summary!- I spent two weeks trying to combat this problem with medications/methods that did not work. Dimilin eradicated the pestilence in less than 3 days!
  6. Hi guys, My redcap oranda appears to have dropsy Would anyone be able to give me some advice on whats the best thing to do please. Hes been separated from the tank so hes now on his own. Hopefully these photos help Thank you
  7. Fish in question: Ranchu, who was purchased on Sunday along with two other ranchu. The other two are looking fine so far. Tank size: 50 gallons. Has been running for about 2 months. Fishless cycle was completed about two weeks ago and fish were added a week after that. Filter: Sunsun HW 304B Water parameters for tank: Ammonia - 0 ppm Nitrites - 0 ppm Nitrates - 5-10 ppm Water parameters for tap: Ammonia - 0 ppm Nitrites - 0 ppm Nitrates - 0 ppm Test kit: API master test kit, drops Water temperature: 77 F Last water change: Yesterday (6/17), about 30 percent. I did a 50 percent two days before that. Current medications: Salt treatment yesterday. 3 tablespoons per gallon added. Actual problem: I noticed on Monday that my ranchu, Cadbury, had injured his bottom. I removed the piece of driftwood that was likely to have caused the injury, but I can't say for certain whether it was caused by clumsiness or by flashing. On Tuesday, I started to notice a slight white film on parts of his tail and his wen. One of his tank mates was going after his injury, so I made a makeshift tank divider because I don't have a hospital tank. Today, the film has become more dense and there are white splotches visible all over his wen and tail. He's still swimming actively and eating rather well (OSI pellets, 2 twice a day, and the occasional pea), but the outward symptoms are visibly worsening. Could someone please help identify his illness? Guidance on how to treat it would be appreciated as well.
  8. I did a little bit of some research and ended up finding this, I thought I would share this as this looks like a nice little guide, and also provides ways to treat them. Here you go! http://www.tetra-fish.com/aquarium-information/aquarium-fish-diseases-how-to-spot-them.aspx
  9. HEllo everybody, This is my first post and I'm very new to fish. I really really need help. I love animals very much and my silly girlfriend accepted a small goldfish as a present knowing nothing about them. We have a Puny Fluval Chi' 5 Gallon tank and at first everything seemed fine. Our fish got lethargic and started resting on the substrate, but would wake up in the morning. Then I noticed the poor little guy gasping at the top of the tank a couple of days later so I did a 50% water change. Next day the poor guy was covered in white spots and part of his tail had started to erode, although i didnt know it at the time. I freaked out and read as much as I could as quickly as I could and bought NOX ICH to clear the white spots. The next day he looked way worse. Had clamped fins, rotting tail and white cloudy substance all over his rear half of his body. He looked very very sick. I went and bought API test kit, API triple sulfa and API Fungus cure aquarium salt and prime and came home and started a treatment of Triple sulfa and malachite green at 24 hr intervals, Fungus cure at 48 hour intervals and daily 30%-50% water changes with prime. I'm putting in top fin Bacterial supplement temporarily to try and help him through this although I know they will not form a sustainable colony. Every water change i put in about a 1/2 teaspoon of aquarium salt. Its been 3 days and he still seems very very very rough. He has white cloudy looking 'mucusy' stuff hanging off of him, and white dots, no tail, all fins clamped. Is floating on the surface. Has a very hard time swimming down. I don't know what to do. The cloudy fungus looks worse than it did yesterday. The white patches on his back and tail look almost yellow. I know our tank is too small but it is all I can do for at least two more weeks. I need to get him through this with the small tank. I think this was all caused by stress from ammonia poisoning and poorly matched temp water changes. My levels pH is 7.6 Ammonia is now 0ppm but rises to 0.25 between daily changes nitrite is 0ppm nitrate is 0ppm I've attached pictures. He now has black/greyish patches on his gills and face. Thanks so much for reading. Any help would be a Godsend. Please click the links for pictures!
  10. So, A ryukin (Flipper) that I bought from LFS in december continues to flash. She is my first GF, but I've had many other types of fish and tanks. I want to treat with prazi. I've been treating with 3% salt for one week. I bought powder prazi on amazon. It states that dosage is 10gr/1000gal. My tank is 29gal. I have a small pocket scale. I know this is basic math, but if I mess it up I'll kill my fish. Will somebody tell me the correct dosage, please. Flipper
  11. is it a good idea to treat a tank for parasites/disease etc. after the cycle is over (and before adding fish)? like adding something to the water "just in case"/as prevention.
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