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  1. Hey y'all! Been awhile but I had a question I couldn't find an answer to. First off want to update on the Goldies. Ru, Hiro, and ChuChu are doing fabulous! I've recently added a lot more Java fern and even split my anubias into two plants! All is going great! But my question pertains to my new betta tank I set up today (seeded from the goldfish filter media), I found a t-8 fixture for real inexpensive at Walmart and bought it. I got a GE 9265k 15w freshwater/saltwater t-8 bulb and I was wondering if it would grow my low light plants? Or if it's too much? I know t-5 are better from research I've done but I already have this t-8 bulb/ballast. Any suggestions/tips would be awesome! Thanks! (Wasn't sure if I should post here or in betta forum so I came here since it was pertaining to lights). Hope everyone is doing great in the new year! -chris
  2. Hi Just wondering if anyone has one of these lights on a 75/90 gallon tank. I am upgrading one of my tanks to a 90 and I am just wondering if the finnex is a good one. Tank will be bare bottom with maybe anubius and/java fern plants at the most. Light is a super reasonable price.
  3. Hi! I am just wondering if anyone has this light and if they like it? I have read some reviews on amazon. I am setting up another goldfish tank and I am going bare bottom for now. This tank will be in my bedroom so I thought having a remote would be handy Eventually I might want to add some live plants in containers and I am wondering if this works? What I don't want is a lot of algae
  4. Hi all, After seeing all the wonderful photos of tanks and fishes on the forum, I was wondering if any of you had suggestions about lighting or backgrounds (or whatever) that would make a wider and perhaps more natural palette of colors stand out (of both the goldfish and the plants, etc). In my tank, everything just seems to have a yellow cast, which I find unappealing. I have black Tahitian moon sand, this light with white fixtures, a 29-gallon tank, and some plants that are trying their very very best. I have a small piece of Mopani driftwood that I boiled for several hours (and soaked), but I think that things were looking kind of yellowish before I put that in. Would it help to put in some kind of laminate background? If so, which colors do you think set things off better? It seems, to my eye, that a slightly bluish cast (or cooler tone, I suppose) to the light sets off things quite handsomely. Would a blue bulb in addition to the white bulb help? Or would a blue bulb hurt the plant growth? I leave in some algae on the walls for BB and for my fish to suck on, but could this be why things are just not looking like the best color? Would it help to get some supplemental colored LEDs (although I don't know if I would have room to hang them over the tank--I am not sure if there is a way to "stick them" onto the back tank wall or something)? I might try putting in carbon once I'm done treating with Prazi and salt in a week to see if that helps, but that seems like a short-term solution to me. Thank you! Also, here is a recent picture of the tank, although it looks more yellowish in real life.
  5. Hello again! i need better lighting for my aquarium and I don't have lots of money to spare. However, my current tank came with a coralife light for the 29g that can hold two bulbs. I was wondering if the 2x coralife colormax bulbs would be strong enough to give me enough light to sustain good plant life and growth? If not, what are some other bulb suggestions? I also have a standard 29g light that I can get better bulbs for, and if necessary, I can probably have both lights on the tank at the same time. Basically I'm asking about the power of colormax. Any experience? With these lights, about what level of aquarium plant could I have? Thanks!
  6. How long do LED light fixtures tend to last? I've had mine approximately a year and it's been fizzling out on me a couple times tonight Should I expect to be buying a new light soon?
  7. Hello all, I have been reading through lighting post, research articles, and information on the internet and I am pretty confused about lighting. Well... I have a fairly good idea of the general terms, requirements, etc. but I am unclear as to how I can achieve my goals. I am planning a planted goldfish tank. Plants will require low/moderate lighting. The tank is a 40 gal breeder 17 inches deep. I want to keep my cost in the mid-range area of no more than $150. I am open to T8, T5, and LED lighting. According to my research, I need somewhere around 2.5-3 watts per gallon BUT I've seen folks on this site suggest that the depth of the tank is also an important consideration in lighting. If I don't need to spend extra money on higher wattage lights then I am all for it. I'm guessing I should be less concerned with actinic lights? Seems like these are for coral in need of blue light and less of a concern for freshwater setups? There are a bunch of light choices on ebay, if anyone here has a recommendation I would greatly appreciate it. If you think I should shell out more money for those Marineland lights, make a case and I might take the dive lol. Thanks y'all
  8. The article below is meant as a very basic primer on using PAR instead of WPG to measure light level in a planted tank. Using Watts per Gallon to Measure Light “Watts per gallon” (wpg) has long been the way we measure low, medium, and high light in an aquarium. At the time this guideline came about, T12 bulbs were the primary lighting source in an aquarium. With the introduction of several newer, more efficient types of bulbs including T8, T5NO (normal output), T5HO (high output), and even LEDs it becomes difficult to use the old wpg guideline because these bulbs are not comparable in terms of their output. The newer bulbs are narrower T12: 1.5” T8: 1” T5: 5/8” The smaller bulbs are more energy efficient (meaning they use less electricity to run) and also provide a higher output of useable light for the same wattage. Other advantages to these newer, smaller bulbs are that more can be fit into a fixture because of their small size, and the extra room created by smaller bulbs also allows for individual reflectors to be placed around each bulb in the fixture, which significantly increases the amount of light being directed at the aquarium. So, a 24 watt T5 bulb is going to use less electricity and provide you with more light output than a 24 watt T8 bulb. Because of these differences, it becomes very difficult to determine how many wpg you need because these bulbs are not comparable. The other issue with using wpg is that there are many factors in an individual aquarium that are going to affect the amount of useable light that actually reaches the plants. This includes the depth of the tank, the height of the fixture, and the quality of the fixture being used (we cannot even compare across the same bulb type easily because the quality of the fixture and reflectors used is going to significantly impact how much useable light reaches the bottom of the tank). If we can’t use WPG, how do we measure light? Recently, the use of photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) has been proposed as a more efficacious way of measuring light level in an aquarium. Lumens per square meter (LUX) is a standard measure of lighting intensity. It is used to measure how bright a particular light appears to the human eye in a standard indoor (or outdoor) setting. So, if we want a brighter light for our kitchen, we might choose one that has higher LUX. PAR on the other hand is a measurement of a particular band of wavelengths (400-700 nanometers) that is useable by plants for photosynthesis. PAR is measured in micromols of photons per square meter per second. Essentially, PAR can be used to measure exactly how much useable light is available to plants. The amount of PAR available is effected by things like depth of tank (the same light fixture is going to provide higher PAR at 12 inches of depth and lower PAR at 30 inches of depth for example), height of the fixture, quality of reflectors on the fixture, and even where in the tank you are measuring (a back corner of the tank for example may have lower PAR than the center. How do we measure PAR? The issue with using PAR as a measurement of light in a tank is that it is not a simple calculation like wpg, and because this way of looking at lighting is relatively new, there is not a ton of PAR data readily available for light fixtures. PAR can be measured using a PAR meter, however these tend to be more expensive than most hobbyists are willing to invest. There are good guides to DIY par meters out there if you search around. You should be able to build one of these for under $100. Luckily, there are several people in the hobby working on collecting PAR data for different fixtures, and some companies are beginning to provide this data to consumers as well. There is still a huge gap in the data at this point, but one hobbyist who goes by the username Hoppy has been instrumental in providing information on the use of PAR and data for specific light fixtures and bulb types. Here are some of his graphs that you may find helpful below. The PAR can be divided or multiplied by the number of bulbs if your fixture has fewer or more bulbs than the one listed (for example, if you have a 2 bulb aquaticlife t5ho fixture and the one listed below is the 4 bulb fixture, just divide the PAR by 2). Source: http://www.plantedta...ad.php?t=184368 What is Low, Medium, and High light? According to Hoppy (who created the graphs above): Low light - 15-30 micromols of PAR - CO2 is not needed, but is helpful to the plants Medium light - 35-50 micromols of PAR - CO2 may be needed to avoid too many nuisance algae problems High light - more than 50 micromols of PAR - pressurized CO2 is essential to avoid major algae problems As Hoppy notes, these guidelines are subject to change and interpretation, as this way of measuring light in an aquarium is still very new and we are still learning. However, this is the most current guideline at this time. Lighting and balance in the aquarium: Now that you have a general sense of what light level you are working with, you need to determine if it is appropriate for your particular setup. In a planted tank, there is a delicate balance between amount of light, ferts, and co2. These three points need to be in balance or it will lead to problems. As light increases, plants demands for co2 and ferts also increase. If you are unable to provide adequate amounts of these, your plants will suffer and algae will likely flourish. In determining how much light you want/need you need to consider what type of plants you are interested in keeping (some require more light and co2 than others to flourish) and what type of tank fits with your lifestyle and budget. High light/high tech tanks tend to be more expensive to run because you need to invest in good light and co2. They also tend to be more labor intensive because you need to dose ferts regularly and plants will grow at a rate that requires frequent trimming and maintenance. But high tech tanks allow you to keep a wide variety of plants. In a lower light tank plants require less co2 and ferts because their growth rate is slower. A low light tank reduces the need for added co2, fertilization needs are lower (and depending on bioload ferts may be provided by fish waste alone or a light fert dosing regimen), and tank maintenance in terms of trimming is reduced. A low light tank also reduces the types of plants you are able to keep successfully. This is as far into this topic I will go because this is a whole other article in itself, however it is something to consider carefully when picking out your light fixture. How to Reduce Light: Too much light is a common problem once we begin looking at PAR instead of wpg. If you find you have more PAR than necessary for your setup there are a few ways to reduce the amount of PAR without getting a new fixture: 1. Raise your fixture - Having a raised fixture is actually desirable for all lighting situations because it allows for a more even spread of PAR throughout the tank - You can use the charts above to determine how much you need to raise your fixture in order to get a desired light level. Many fixtures have hanging kits that can be bought online. - Lights can be hung from the ceiling, by building (or buying) a bar that attaches to the aquarium stand, or by using plant hanger hooks screwed into the wall. Please do your research well before deciding how to hang your light. A light fixture falling into a fish tank is something you want to avoid at all cost. 2. Use fiberglass window screen - According to Hoppy, one layer of window screen will reduce PAR by 40%, two layers will reduce by about 64% http://www.plantedta...ad.php?t=114756 - Window screen can be bought cheaply at any hardware store - If you have a glass top you can lay the screen on the glass top below the light, or you can attach with tape to the bottom of the fixture. 3. Use plants/floaters - Floating plants can also be used to reduce light. Without a PAR meter it is difficult to know by how much, but you can easily adjust by adding or taking away floaters depending on how your plants are doing. The other issue with floaters is that it can be difficult to get an even spread. They may all congregate at one area of the tank depending on the current, significantly reducing PAR in one area and not others. Using plants can take some trial and error. - Small floating plants like duckweed and frogbit can be used along with larger stem plants such as wisteria. 4. Reduce the number of bulbs you run - If you have a multi bulb fixture you may be able to run it with fewer bulb, but this is fixture dependent. This is not an ideal fix, but may work if the others listed above are not options
  9. Ok so I have been think about if I should get a moon light for my tanks or not. So here are my questions. 1.) Do any of you have moon light or some form of night lighting for your tanks? 2.) What kind do you have if you do? 3.) What are the pros and cons of such a system? 4.) Does it have any affect of the fish health, activity, or color? Thank you all that reads this for your time and input
  10. ive had my seaclear 36" long 40G with the cheapy single 24" fluorescent tube fixture that comes with it for years.. but the tank was always in a sunny room so the plants never suffered. my goldfish tank is heavily planted and my goldfish are actually well behaved about not tearing them up. but ive moved the tank to another room so its time to think about buying a Nicer light fixture as the plants are beginning to suffer and i cant see the fish as well. i tried LEDs and it was a major waste of money. im thinking about a fixture that is at least the equivalent of 3 to 4 24" 20 watt fluorescent tubes, or maybe an actual 36" fixture since the tank is actually that long. ive looked at some 24" fixtures that hold 4 High Output fluorescent tubes, and some 24" fixtures that hold 2 of the compact fluorescent tubes (the ones that are 2 tubes stuck together with 4 pins in a row) i like the look of daylight mixed with actinic, or the 50/50 CFLs. my questions, i wonder if any one knows or has some experience with these different bulbs. compact fluorescent, regular and H.O. fluorescent tubes; What is Brighter? how do they compare to eachother? what lasts longest? most cost effective? heat problems? do plants thrive more with one or the other? thanks!
  11. Hi all I've just upgraded to a lovely new 220 Litre tank, in the place of a hood though it has two pieces of sliding glass, My house is quite dark, and I live in a country with very little sunlight so I need a good strong artificial light at this time of year. I bought this lighting control unit for the tank last week: And this bulb (An interpet 18W Community Daylight): However, when I put the light on top of the tank it barely illuminates it, at first I thought that it was not bright enough, but then I took an old hood (which I have to give away this week) and stuck it on top, like so: This is the bulb contained in it: It's an 18W bulb so I presume it doesn't give off much more light. Is the issue that I need something with a reflector that will 'trap' and 'direct' the light as with the hood? Or do I need to buy a double strip light controller or something a little bit stronger? Would appreciate any advice. Thanks Derek
  12. Guest

    Planted Betta Tank Lighting

    Hello! I was wandering what your opinions on lighting for a planted betta tank were? I have a ten gallon and I'm planning on adding Italian vals, dwarf hairgrass, krypt parva, and flame moss. What lighting should I use? Do I need a carbon dioxide diffuser? Thanks!
  13. Hi guys My house is very dark so I typically have the hood light on in it from midday to ten O'clock. Some weekdays though I can leave the house at seven am and come back well after nine so I don't get to watch my Goldies very much, I might turn on the light to feed them but then I respectfully turn it off soon after. I was thinking of getting a blue L.E.D night, partially to remedy this and partially for aesthetic reasons, the idea being that it would approximate moonlight and allow you to watch your fish at night without disturbing them too much. I found somebody selling these Hagen/Marina L.E.D lights on Ebay: http://ca-en.hagen.c...pg=1&perPage=24 You buy the lights and the Hub separately (the hub can power up to three), I had thought of putting a strip of LEDs behind the tank but this product is submersible so waterproof,and I would imagine, safer. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with this? I probably wouldn't leave them on all night , maybe just between when I get in and when I go to bed. Keen to hear what you all think.
  14. Hi, I have a timing issue with respect to keeping my lights on. I leave home early and get home generally quite late (12+ hours later) Should I keep lights on all day or just turn them on for a couple hours when I get home? I would like to avoid buying a timer. Natural lighting in the room is decent to slightly dark. Any thoughts? thanks
  15. Does anyone use LED lighting for their tanks? I've seen youtube videos of LED light strips (or light tubes).
  16. Hey, guys. I recently planted my 40gal with oodles of short anubias. I also bought 39W LED lighting to help my anubias grow a little better. However, whenever I turn it the LED light on, my goldfish get super stressed! Peachos bottom sits in the corner and Lorenzo will start gasping in the (meager) shade of the plants. And then they snap back to grazing mode the second I turn it off, haha. Is it just too bright to the point I have to use a different light? Or should I buy more shade producing decorations?
  17. So I got this light from Petco today and I like the light output. However, I'm not so sure I'm happy with the way the light fixture itself sits. It appears that it was designed to mount on the aquarium without a lid or to hang from the ceiling (I live in an apartment so that probably isn't going to happen). I don't want my fish to jump out, so right now it's connected to the mounting brackets but the brackets are sitting on the lid, if that makes sense. Are all fluorescents this way? I spent $120 bucks on it and if I can get better online than I will do it and take this back. Any suggestions? Oh and Lucy's "orange" is actually still mostly red. My previous lighting just sucked.
  18. I am trying to find an economic solution for lighting for the plants I am trying to get, mainly, ludwigia and cabomba palaeformis, ones that get nice colors with higher lighting (: I am wondering, do I really need to spend 70+ dollars for a marineland/aqueon light, when I can buy t5 fixtures at home depot for 20 dollars, and the bulbs for 15? Is there a difference between the aquarium lights, and the shop lights? Couldn't I just get a sheet of glass and attach the shop light to the aquarium? Don't get me wrong, if I must buy the aquarium lights I will buy the aquarium lights. They are just so darn expensive!
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