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Found 8 results

  1. Hello I need advice I have a 75 gallon tank and it's been cycling for 8 weeks. I did a 90% water change yesterday but it has never fully cycled, my NO2 levels has always been high. What should I do now? Should I add more NH3 or let it sit for another week? My NH3 levels are about 1ppm and I know by now both NH3 and NO2 should be zero Thank you Kayla
  2. Hey guys, quick question. I'm in the middle of fishless cycling my new tank, and it seems to be chugging along just fine, but I find myself needing to occasionally top-off the water. My question is, is it better for the cycle to just use plain, untreated tap water? Or should I use Prime-treated water, and then add more ammonia after an hour? Any advice would be much appreciated!
  3. Hi guys, I just got in the mail a new AC filter to replace my old Chinese and extremely noise hob filter. The tank I'm going to place it in is fully cycled and water change isn't due until 4 days from now. My question is: can I just change the old filter for the new one (not switching the filter media) without having them both run for a few days? I tought I could do that and start adding some Seachem Stabilty to help the filter accumulate beneficial bacteria. M
  4. When I first bought my fish I had a 10 gallon aquarium and a cascade 100 filter. After learning about goldfish, two weeks later I purchased a 75 gallon and an aqueon quiet flow 55/75. I use the two of them together right now but I know it's not enough GPH for my tank. I will be finally purchasing my second aqueon quiet flow. My tank is still cycling, almost done though! Will removing my cascade filter affect the cycling process? Obviously I will be leaving in my other filter which has been going through the cycling process as well. My poor little guys have been through so much, I just want to make sure I do the right thing for them! ????
  5. Hi all, As I've mentioned before, I'm new to growing plants (properly), and have had some happier plants over the past week and a half from a good source. However, this morning, I noticed that some of the leaves on my anubias frazeri were looking sick. Namely: one had a lot of holes. It should be noted that I'm in the middle of fishless cycling (at the high nitrite stage--I'm doing a 90% water change now since nitrites were more than 2 ppm this morning). Ammonia hasn't started to drop significantly (it was between 1-2 ppm this morning, though I will get it down to 1 ppm after the change). I have been dosing Flourish comprehensive and Excel (only 1 capful for 29 gallons) about twice per week or with water changes, and I use root tabs. I've read that Flourish comp takes care of "micronutrients," but should I be dosing "macro" ones? How do I tell what kinds they need? Other than one of my banana plants rotting from the roots, the plants have been doing OK so far. I have had to replant my stem plants (Brazilian pennywort, creeping Charlie) a couple of times, but my Amazon sword is looking a little anemic. I also have a red crypt that is doing well. I have Italian vals and a dwarf lily coming in the mail. I use an inert sand substrate and have a 5000-7500 K T5-OH light with a small Finnex LED that I only use periodically. Temperature has been at 81-82 F for the cycle. My pH has been at 8 steadily, though Koko has recommended that I stop buffering my water to try to lower it (my tap is 7.2). I have read that holes in the leaves can be a sign of nutritional deficiency. Could this be so? Or are the water conditions stressful and/or should I expect some leaf problems in the first couple of weeks with the plants? Sorry for all of the questions, but I would like to keep these ones alive. They aren't cheap! If it helps, this is my whole tank picture as of this morning: Thanks!
  6. Hi, sorry for all of the questions lately. I am planning to start dosing potassium before I take the plunge and go the dry fert route, but I also ordered Seachem Nitrogen since I am noticing some yellowing on new growth (namely my sword). However, I'm still cycling the tank (high nitrite phase), and I don't want to screw anything up. Would it be advisable to hold off on any kind of Nitrogen dosage until things settle and the fish can fertilize everything? Nitrates are at around 5 ppm before I do a big water change. One other question: my Brazilian pennywort keeps wanting just to float in the tank. Should I let it? I've noticed that some people seem to be able to grow the pennywort in kind of an attractive daisy chain, but my penny wort just wants to float all over, which I don't find attractive. Would I have to put the stems close together (floating one of them) with the hope that their aerial roots will link them? Or should I just keep replanting them? I've also noticed that my creeping Charlie wants to be more of a thicket than a set of orderly planted stems, so I've let a couple float in the thicket there. Would it need more water column ferts to succeed? (I use Excel and Flourish comprehensive... and the potassium soon). My pennywort isn't growing as much as I'd anticipated and isn't sending out a lot of aerial roots. The Charlie is doing better. By contrast, my bulb plants are doing decently (growing some new leaves fairly regularly. Sorry for all of the questions again and thanks for any advice.
  7. So I've had two filters cycling in a 5 gallon tub for going on two months. Both have a large sponge and a bag of biomax, one has some carbon that expired after the first month but I figured I would leave it for the bacteria to hang out on. It's my first fishless cycle so I had started it with leftover fish food but then switched to pure ammonia about two weeks in. It was doing fine for a while, I got all my ammonia eaters doing great, and could take any added down to 0 in a day. But then about three or four weeks ago something weird happened. I got sky high nitrites (and to a lesser extent nitrates) that would not drop. I did a series of partial changes for about a week, and then a 90% and 100% change in the same day, but within a few hours it was back off the charts (API liquid test kit by the way, bought it new right before I started with the filters). I tested the tap water and levels were negligible, so it wasn't that and it wasn't a defective test kit. So I tried cleaning the sponges in some tank water, there was some gunk I rinsed off the surface that I believe was rotting food and thought could be causing the spike. That was around the last week of may. After that I decided to leave it, testing every other day or so, and see if it would level out. I stopped adding ammonia almost entirely, just a drop or two here and there to keep those bacteria alive. I also periodically added extra doses of prime since that is supposed to make things easier to break down? It still hasn't, I did two 100% changes today and it's already back to almost the max level on the test card. I'm completely stumped and have no idea what to do at this point. Nitrates are also rising, although more slowly, so I know there are some bacteria doing something. I'd hate to have to start over but I just have no idea what's going on. I don't know if there are some food particles trapped inside the sponge? I can't get them out and I would think they would be mostly gone by now anyway after all these weeks? Anyone have any ideas?
  8. I’m on the 19th day of cycling with fish. On the 10th day I added "filter mud" from a cycled tank in hopes of speeding up my cycling. Currently the parameters read: Tap / Tank Ammonia: 0 / 0 Nitrit: 0 / 0.1 Nitrate: ~3 / 1 ph: 7.8 acc. to homepage How can the gap between tap and tank of nitrate happen? Am I on the right path or did I mess something up? Should I do a 50% WC or just add prime? Thank you for your help.
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