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  1. I did water change as usual yesterday, (about 90% )and cleaned one of the two Fluval Fx6 filters I have. The tank is 500 liter. The nitrate was higher than it normally is after a week, but I wrote it off to warm weather and goldfish having been fed a little more than usual. I decided to check the levels again today, however and they were back to about 15ppm (having hard time telling 10 and 20 ppm apart API freshwater test kit). So I tested the tap water and it is about 5ppm (probably little higher but 5 is closest) fresh from tap (I retested 2 times, made sure I follow directions to letter and even used fresh never used tube). My tapwater has always been 0ppm before this and never over 5ppm just before water change. Is there anything I can do aside from double dozing Prime daily until the tapwater resettles?
  2. I tested the ammonia of my main tank after dosing it with plain ammonia last night, and my reading was.. orange? I have the API master kit, so this was baffling to me. I extra rinsed the test tubes, and used different ones: orange both times. I fairly recently had PP in my tank to sterilize it and then oxidized out the remainder after a 50% WC with hydrogen peroxide. I let it sit with the filters on for several hours before dosing ammonia. I guess a big water change is in order? I was just wondering if anyone had ever seen this and what it might be.
  3. Hi, I am in the process of fishless cycling my 220L tank with fish food. I was wondering if it were possible to use cloudy ammonia used for cleaning instead of the fish food. I do not have access to any other type of ammonia. Thanks so much
  4. I have seen several posts that mention not to add salt to the tank if there is any ammonia present. I have high ammonia in my tap water (1.00 ppm) due to chloromines. I am currently treating my new fish with Prazi and salt, but anytime I do a WC, there is going to be ammonia in my tank (detoxed with Prime, of course). My question is, if the tank is treated with Prime, is it still dangerous to have salt in the water when ammonia is present?
  5. Hello, I've had two small (1 - 1 1/2'') fancy (bubble-eye) goldfish in a 30 gallon tank for over a month now. My water tests are done with a liquid API test kit. pH stays around 7.0, temperature is 72 (maintained by heater) Penguin biowheel power filter rated for more than enough filtration and two airstones ammonia fluctuates from 0 - 0.25 (hard to read, even in sunlight at times) no nitrite or nitrate whatsoever I change about 25-30% of the water at least twice a week. Sometimes my fish act fine, but the past few days one bottom sits or likes to swim near the top of the tank. There should be no problem with oxygen saturation in the tank, and ammonia never gets above 0.25 - 0.50. I feed them a varied diet once a day, just enough for them to eat in 2 minutes. They never refuse food, but at times the fins on this same one are clamped. What is going on? Weird. I kept the salt level around 0.2% for a couple of weeks (slowly bringing them up) to help relieve some stress when I first got them and to ward off the dreaded ich, and I've been bringing the salinity back down slowly. I read on several forums that the minute salt level should not effect the biological filter. The weird acting fish seems to be happier with the salt added so I added a bit back to bring it up to 0.1% again. I did add some Tetra Safestart a couple of days ago to hopefully boost the bacteria, but I tested the water today and I keep getting no ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate. I'm baffled! I've kept all kinds of fish from freshwater to marine over the past 25 years, so I feel like a somewhat experienced aquarist, but I've just come back to the hobby after a 5 year hiatus. So confused!!!! Any input is much appreciated. I've never had this much trouble with goldfish before, and I even kept bubble eyes and celestials for many years in the past. Maybe they are fine and I'm just fretting over them too much. Or maybe they have flukes? I do not see any visible parasites, but the funny acting one does flare his gill covers sometimes and yawns. Something is irritating him, and I don't think it's the water parameters. But the tank isn't cycling for some reason. Thank you, Heather
  6. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MP4QG6/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I am having trouble finding pure ammonia locally. It might say clear, but when you shake it, it bubbles. I actually have the Dr. Tim's Ammonium chloride and can start using it immediately with a little guidance. I won't be able to try a few more places for the ammonia until Tuesday or Wed. The tank has been set up since the 17th.
  7. Hi, this is the begining of my journey, I had a 10 gal at home (my main tank) that used to house a betta and some neons, cycled and everything was good for a year, then the neons started bulling the betta and so he had to move to my 5 gal. tank (he is totally happy there) so I was rooming around and so I got my hands in a ranchu, put the neons in another tank(they are much better in there) and left the ranchu all in the 10 gal tank, kept investigating and so I upgraded to a 20 long but 2 weeks before I set up the tank I cleaned the 10 gal tank loosing my cycle (I changed from a wall filter to an sponge filter) so I was doing 70% water change morning and 50% water change at night, I never let the ammonia to build more than 0.50ppm and the nitrates never more than 20ppm that was for 2 weeks then I set up the 20 long so I put the sponge filter into the new tank with the old tank water (I have no decor in the tank) and my ranchu in it, so kept doing the same thing for a week it was still pretty much the same then I put 2 little anubias and a lilly(top plant) in the tank, my ammonia(1.0ppm) started rising with the nitrate(40ppm) so I figured it was because the sponge could not be enough for the bb to colonize so I put the ceramic media, from a brand new aqua clear 70 (got it for when s/he will get older), into the tank then 3 days later I got my ammonia at 1.0 and nitrate at 20 so I did 80% water change; then the next day I did testing and it was ammonia:0.25 nitrate:20 there is no way that they will rise so much in only 24 hours(I then installed the aqua clear 70 hoping that the extra sponge could only help; I figured out a way for the dropping of the water not to make a current, so far so good extra sponges are never too bad right?). then the next day the ammonia:0.50 and nitrate:40 did a 7 gal water change then 2 days after it got again to this point where I did again the 7 gal water change; then the next day I got ammonia:0.25 nitrate:10 and I noticed that my ranchu was trying to eat some clear stuff from the anubias(I stopped feeding so much as s/he had trailing poop) so I took them out and proceeded to take some ceramic media from my 5 gal tank and placed it in the aqua clear ; 24 hours later I did a water test and got ammonia:0.50 nitrate:40 this time I did not do the water change and then 24 hours later I did a water test and got ammonia:1.0 nitrate:40 so I did a 90% water change(today). API water test kit with a reading of: PH:7.6 HPH:7.4 Ammonia:0.25-1.0ppm Nitrite:0 (glorious number never changes) Nitrate:5.0-40ppm when the water gets to the highest I will do water change(this week only) but before that I was doing two times a day. tap water will give me a reading of 0 in all of them and then the PH and HPH will be the same numbers not quite the same deep color but not light/dark enough to change into another number. I am well going into my 5th week of this cycling process so I am getting to the point where I am asking myself what else to do, shall I get some new plants? plastic ones ofcourse cuz I am done with the live ones(rehome them into glass containers in my window sill and to my surprise the anubias are pulling out new growth, I figure not enough lighting for them to be of much help in the tank since they are little ones still.) I am not putting any gravel (I did graduated from gravel a long time ago) what else can I do??? thank you for your help this is as much info I can give without being too extent and yet I feel I have given you the story of my life... LOL... so once again sorry and thank you.!
  8. When I bought my 3 ranchus in April, Skittles was always a little too buoyant. I halved the water level in my tank for a while to decrease the pressure, but the noise from the waterfalling HOB filters was driving my hubby and I nuts! Now Skittles is having trouble getting down from the top. I haven't checked my parameters in a month and the TAP water is horrible!! Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank)0.5 * Nitrite Level(Tank)0.25 * Nitrate level(Tank)5-10 * Ammonia Level(Tap)1 * Nitrite Level(Tap)0.5 * Nitrate level(Tap)5-10 * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.6 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)7.8 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops * Water temperature? 77 * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55gal 2 months and used established media in filter to speed process * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? AC70 and AC110 * How often do you change the water and how much? every 5-7 days 60-75% depending on how much I've been feeding * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Sun 7/21 I changed 75% and then today I added about 23 or so gallons to top tank so that is wasn't half empty any more * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3 small ranchu 2in from nose to base of tail * What kind of water additives or conditioners? prime and sometime koi clay * What do you feed your fish and how often? I've been feeding FBW almost daily to try to grow a wen, blanched spinach, FBS (spiralina enhanced), NLS-Thera A, Saki-Hikari (purple bag), frozen blanched peas. I feed 2x-6x per day depending on if I am working a 12 hr shift or not * Any new fish added to the tank? no * Any medications added to the tank? salt and prazi when I first got them * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? no * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Poop is short and dark and color of food. Eats like a maniac. Only abnormal is this excessive buoyancy issue... Has a very hard time getting to the bottom and staying there. He floats up butt first. I have to post pics from my phone so those will be on there way. I do not know why I am cursed with floaty fish What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance for any suggestions and this was happening before the stupid tap water!!!!!!
  9. TAP WATER: PH: 7.6 (OR UP) High Range PH: 7.4 Ammonia: 0.25ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 0ppm TANK TEST: PH: 7.6 (OR UP) High Range PH: 8.2 Ammonia: 0.50ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 0ppm Thanks guys. I don't know whats good, whats not, and what to do about what I have. I detoxified the ammonia and added a proper PH thingy to the tank. Thats pretty much all that would affect these readings...
  10. Hey, so i have my new calico ryukin Asha in his QT chilling out on medication for some fish lice (argulus) and whatever else. But the tank is a 10 gallon, and he is about 3 inches (body measured without tail) Perhaps it's too small?? Ammonia goes up to about .5 PPM so I change the water. Second day of it rising again to .5 PPM So maybe I could get him into a 29 gallon? I'm not sure. I'd have to buy it but i wanna be sure first if this is something i can control for the 8 weeks i'd like to keep him in QT.
  11. This may be a bit wordy, but I wanted to be sure to give as many details as possible to receive the best advice for my situation… In October (2012) my daughters went to a little carnival/fair type event with their Grandma and came home with a bagged goldfish in tow. (I specifically asked my mom not to do this as she had done it once before and that fish died about a day later as we had no way to sufficiently care for it, which I felt would be unfair to allow to happen to another fish). So there we were with a fish in a bag and no idea what to do with it. I filled a storage dish with water, acclimated the fish (about the only thing I knew to do properly) and released it into the container. We then went about explaining to our 4 year old as kindly as possible that “Goldie” would only be with us a few days because goldfish don’t live very long (I know, I know… I seriously had no clue…). Anyway, I did the best I could for someone with no knowledge, but every morning I woke up expecting Goldie to be floating lifeless in his/her little dish. And then another week went by… So by this time even I know there is no way this fish is happy in such a small dish so I found the largest container I could and moved him/her into this. I also decided to do some research into the care of goldfish… and that’s when my mind was blown! Seriously, I had NO idea… I’d only ever known one person who kept an aquarium (a roommate from my early twenties) and she was constantly rotating dead fish out of her tank and replacing them with new live ones (I have a giant list in my head now of all the things that weren’t right about that tank of hers- LOL). So yeah, it blew my mind to learn how large they can get and how long they can actually live under the proper conditions. In truth, I was overwhelmed by it all and my first thought was, “There is no way I can take this on.” So Goldie remained in her (still too small) container for another month with me still expecting to find him/her floating every morning. It may sound horrible, but I actually really resented that fish and the fact it kept hanging on. I couldn’t stand knowing it was suffering, but was also irritated that all the responsibility for it had fallen on me. And then something happened… I pretty much fell in love with that stubborn, spunky little thing. I went out and bought the largest tank I could afford/ had room for at the time (a 10 gallon), some accessories (gravel, plants, a small castle) which my girls picked out and the basic care items I had read I should get (things like food, Tetra AquaSafe, Jungle Start Zyme, net, gravel vacuum, etc). The tank itself came as a kit with a filter, small water heater and hood with lights. I read about cycling, but had no idea what was being said so I pretty much shot for the whole, “Do water changes” concept and went from there. Everything seemed to be going fine after that. Goldie became a different fish… from super lethargic to super swimmer, from not eating much to eating really well. Not to mention the fact that she grew over an inch the first couple of months in her new home! I figured all must be going well and I continued to do weekly water changes and bi-weekly filter cartridge changes. Then my tank got really murky and nothing seemed to be helping. Finally I decided that surely the tank must just need a really good cleaning. Uhm… by good cleaning, I mean this… I removed 90% of the water, all of the gravel (and cleaned it in non-conditioned tap water), all of the accessories (again, rinsed them with water straight from the tap), scrubbed all the sides and changed the filter cartridge (I had remembered reading somewhere to never scrub the build-up from the filter itself as this was part of a beneficial eco-system in the aquarium, so at least I didn’t do that). Then I refilled the tank with treated water (but not Start Zyme for some reason), replaced the gravel and decorations… and there you have it! My sparkling clean, but completely awful aquatic environment. Of course I didn’t know that at the time. A few weeks later I noticed that Goldie’s body looked terrible… the scales, the tail… I just knew something was wrong. So that’s when I went online looking for some answers and discovered she had the symptoms of ammonia poisoning. I immediately did a large water change to try to get the ammonia levels down. I then proceeded to do water changes every other day (with what I know after finding these forums I wish I had done them every day). Still, after a week of doing this I could tell she was looking much better. Then the black spots signifying healing showed up and I felt really relieved. I ended up finding my way to this website when I went online looking for every bit of information I could find to make sure my fish (yes, it’s MY fish now… just don’t tell my 4 year old) lives a long and healthy life. Since finding this site a few days ago this is what I have done/ found out… On Sunday my water tested 3.0 for ammonia (yikes) so I did a 40% water change. I also added Start Zyme to my tank after this to try to start cycling my tank (which I think I finally have an understanding of after finding an easy to grasp article on here). On Monday I did a 30% water change in the morning and in the evening my ammonia test came back with a .5 reading. Today (Tuesday) I again did a 30% water change. After waiting about an hour I did the ammonia test and also did a 5-in-1 strip test. My ammonia results were .25 and the 5-in-1 results are as follows: TANK Nitrate: safe (20) Nitrite: safe (0) Total Hardness: 75 (soft) Total Alkalinity: 40 (not good!) pH: 6.2 (not good!) I am a bit confused as to why my alkalinity and pH would be such a problem as every time I do a water change I not only use the AquaSafe water conditioner, but I also use the Easy Balance which is supposed to help with water chemistry and pH levels. Also, after reading some more in the forums, I thought maybe I should go ahead and test my tap water also, so here are those results: TAP Ammonia: 0 Nitrate: 0 (safe) Nitrite: 0 (safe) Total Hardness: 75 (soft) Alkalinity: 40 pH: 6.2 I know from reading other posts that the ideal is for ammonia to be at 0. I also understand that if my tank is cycling, I should soon be looking for the nitrite and then eventually the nitrate levels to increase (and then decrease over time with water changes and as the process progresses). I am concerned about the alkalinity and pH levels. If I had to guess, I’d say this pH and alkalinity are probably the same as they have always been in my tank. Should I be trying to raise them immediately? What is the best way (or product) to do this? I also know I desperately need to get a larger tank (40g minimum, but shooting for the 50-55 range) AND a better filter for Goldie. I am currently saving for this (we have just bought a home and are moving in a month so a larger tank isn’t possible until we have moved). I also plan on trying to cycle the new tank without my fish this time around. I am very concerned about Goldie making it through this upcoming move. She is already stressed and going through a tank cycling and if she survives the move she will basically have to start all over with going through another tank cycle. I will admit I wasn't sure whether to post this here or in the Horror Story thread, but opted for here as it deals with water quality. (I still think it's quite a horror story though...). I really want to be the best fish mommy possible. I feel so bad that I have already made so many mistakes that have caused harm to Goldie. I would really love some advice and feedback on how to proceed and also possible products to use in the new tank. PS. Goldie is a beautiful little Comet!
  12. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank): 1ppm * Nitrite Level (tank) 0 * Nitrate level (Tank) 0 * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 6.5, 0, 0 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API 5-in-1 strips, and API drops for NH3 and NH4 * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? 2 filters, 55 and 45 gal hangy ones (sorry, I'm too scattered to remember!) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Aqueon water conditioner * Water temperature? room temp, no heater * How often do you change the water and how much? Weekly, 20% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Today * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55gal, four weeks * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 fancy goldfish, 3-4" from nose to tail * What do you feed your fish and how often? once or twice daily, a small amount * Any new fish added to the tank? no * Any medications added to the tank? * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) high ammonia, see below for awful behavioral changes * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? bubbles all over body? gills seem to be poking out, red streaks on one due to ammonia * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? One is at bottom, the other floating listlessly * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. One week of Amquel, more info below New member at the forum, though I have been looking through in recent weeks. *shamefully waves hello* What a wreck this has been... hard to start from the beginning. Long story short, we added in our two fat fancies about three weeks ago, thinking that our tank had cycled enough for them (had been running about two weeks with dirty filters). WRONG! Been dealing with ammonia from the start. Did a week with Amquel (figured it was better to neutralize the ammonia bond rather than throw out what little beneficial bacteria were in there), then mostly-daily water changes with little or no improvement with the ammonia. This morning I made a horrible, horrible decision in doing an extreme water change. Many things I have read said to do that, and since it was the one thing I hadn't tried.... well now, after a 30-gallon change, my fish are shocked, stressed, listless and probably a day away from dead. I ran to my fish store for help, and was told NOT to have done that water change, and to throw in a bottle of bacteria and to let it ride. My oranda has been at the bottom of the tank, and now the ryukin is floating at the top, bubbles galore, unable to swim. I know they've got their fins in their graves.... but what can I at least try to do? I can't believe I did this to them.
  13. I think my tank cycle has crashed Ammonia raising Well I will list all the stuff I did on my last water change on Friday I did a 60% water change 1) Added NovAqua Plus water conditioner 2) Added Amquel Plus 3) Added Fish Protector 4) Ph Buffer 7.5 I did use different water for the first time but I tested it before I use it and the PH was 7.6, High range Ph 7.4, Ammonia 0ppm, Nitrite 0ppm, Nitrates 5ppm. The GH and KH was very low but I didn't think that would be to much of a problem I just have very high nitrates (40ppm) in my water that I wanted to try other water to lower my nitrates. I didn't change anything in my filter because I did it last week (friday) but when I do a water change I turn off the filter and the water drains out and normally put my media(foam sponge, Matrix Bio media) in tank water to keep the BB. But I forgot to take them out. How long can your BB live without water? I also added Crushed coral for the first time to my filter to help with my Ph since I was using water with very low GH and KH I didn't want my low KH to crash my Ph. I also added Bio - Max for the first time for more BB to grow because I found out a way too actually fit it in my filter. I added some goldfish marbles and I also add 3 small bowl to put crush coral for my snails Goldfish marbles Yesterday i notice one of my fish bottom sitting and didn't seem him self. So i tested my water and had Ammonia of 1.0 ppm. I add Amquel Plus and change my media bag with Ammonia Neutralizing Crystals. So it seem like the ammonia is going down. But what cause my ammonia to go up in the first place? My current tank permeters Ph 7.6 High Range Ph 7.4 Ammonia 0.50 ppm Nitrite 0 ppm Nitrate 20 - 40 ppm My water does seem cloudy too. Right now water change will be difficult when my water is frozen and my sink water is going to my bath tub. Yes I can clean my fish tank with simple gravel siphon and a pail. But I would have to get 5 to 6 jag of water (18L each) to fill my tank when I do about 50-60% water Change.
  14. When I finally received my bottle yesterday of ammonium chloride from DrTim's Aquatics, I was really excited to start the fishless cycle in my 30-gallon tank. So I dropped in the suggested 30 drops into my tank, waited two hours, then tested for ammonia with my API test kit. The test indicated .25 ppm, (our tap water level.) So I waited two more hours, added another 10 drops into the tank, waited another hour, then tested the water again. Still .25 ppm. I added 20 more drops, until the test showed 1.0 ppm. Then I waited overnight just in case it took longer for the ammonia level to rise. That was yesterday. This morning I tested, and it still read 1.0 ppm ammonia. I added another 30 drops, and the ammonia level went up to 2.0. I've waited several more hours, added another 10 drops, and the ammonia is still at 2.0 ppm. My tank reeks of ammonia by now. I can't understand why the ammonia level isn't rising like it's supposed to! Am I not waiting long enough to test? Should I just keep adding drops until the level reaches 4.0 ppm, even if that means pouring half the bottle into my tank? Also, the temperature is 82 degrees F, and the pH is 8.0. I'm using a Fluval 306 cannister filter, and I have a air disk bubbling away in the tank. I just bought two anubias plants to add to my tank, but I'm holding off until I figure out what's going on with the ammonia.
  15. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank): 0.25 ppm * Nitrite Level (tank): 0 ppm * Nitrate level (Tank): 15 ppm * Ammonia Level (Tap): ~0.1 ppm * Nitrite Level (Tap): 0 ppm * Nitrate level (Tap): 0 ppm * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 8.0 * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): ~7.4 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Tetra Whisper 20gal * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Tetra AquaSafe * Water temperature? 75*F * How often do you change the water and how much? ~30% once a week * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? yesterday, ~5gal * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20gal, 1 week but upgraded from established 10gal * How many fish in the tank and their size? 7 (was 8 until yesterday), avg size 2in (not fat, they're babies) * What do you feed your fish and how often? Aqueon sinking pellets once daily plus some veggies * Any new fish added to the tank? 1 when I upgraded * Any medications added to the tank? Some Furan-2 last week, but it should be filtered out by now * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.): nitrogen-cycle shock * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? fish that just died had major fin-fray, oranda has lesions and black fin tips getting worse, white ryukin has a few small red veins in tail, another fantail gets floaty sometimes * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? the fish that just died was bottom-sitting but the others are fine, appetite seems decreased * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.: treated for Ick a few times in old tank, Furan-2 recently * You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video. Ok guys, I know my tank is still overcrowded even after my upgrade, but a bigger tank is not an option right now. I just want to reduce stress on my fish until I can upgrade again. My oranda is the one I'm really worried about. He's been the most sensitive to ammonia/nitrite from the start. This Butch the oranda. Not sure why the 2nd pic is upside down. I think this is due to some kind of ammonia or nitrite poisoning. The test readings are pretty good now, but this is residual from the old smaller tank. I wanted to try a salt bath but I'm not sure how (I also have 3 apple snails). Thanks!
  16. So today I came across a surprise find, after going around at "Home" stores like Home Depot and going over their cleaning supplies, I never had any luck getting pure ammonia solutions. I was visiting a grocery store called Safeway, its avaibable in Canada and I think the US as well. I found a medium size jug of old pure ammonia for $3.29! Here is what it looks like: Its ingredients list water and ammonia hydroxide (which is ammonia dissolved in water, yay for high school chemistry) and its pretty legit to me! I only used around 15 drops to reach a reading of 3-4ppm in a 5 gallon bucket so 1 jug will last you a life time. Here is what I like about it: 1. Price, its $3.29, super affordable 2. Quantity, its 1.8L, I know some people had to order 5 gallons worth of it. 3. Easy to find - I am *guessing* all safeway carry this since it is specifically made for safeway. 4. You can use any leftovers to clean your toilet! lol I hope some people in Canada like me who can't find ammonia anywhere might have some luck now!
  17. i am cycling my 30 gallon tank with 2 fancy goldfish (if i had known about cycling, i would have done fishless), and last night, after 7 weeks of waiting, nitrite finally appeared, in an attempt to get the nitrite levels down i did a 40% water change and forgot to add dechlorinater. this morning my nitrite was at 0 again and my ammonia was really high. is there any way i can get my cycle back on track or does this mean i have to start again?
  18. Well the fish store was closed by the time I got to it and GOOD THING! I went home and tested my water and I had a wee bit of a cycle bump. Ammonia was at 0.5ppm! Finally bought a thermometer and the water is sitting at 50F which yes is cold but these are pond fish kept in the basement, the water temp should rise to 60 over the winter as we turn on the furnace more. The plants get some light but obviously not enough to metabolize more ammonia. Water changes are every 4 days. I remove till about half of the pond pump is showing. So maybe 2-3inches of water left and then refill. Right now I don't have a siphon since you can't siphon floor ground to floor ground. I do it with a empty container and try to 'catch' the debris as it swirls. I need to buy a utility pump, I don't have a strong enough drill to work my drill pump. Solutions: get a utility pump to help siphon the debris, redistribute fish so some are in the wading pool (currently all 5 are in the preformed pond), get stronger light on a timer to keep the plants going Solutions I don't know how to do: increase temperature safely, As for the nitrate and nitrite, it was by pure fluke I found this one tiny api ammonia drops in wally world that wasn't expired. I am waiting until my lfs switches to api solely and there will be drops available to me again. The wading pool need all the debris siphoned out, they have the majority of the plants and therefore the majority of the dirt. The pump need more sponges for biomedia. I expect there may be a cycle bump with that one too but since I'm hauling dirty water up the basement stairs and then outside to dump and I'm filling up water upstairs and hauling it downstairs to fill I'm only doing one pond at a time. also wisdom teeth are coming out in 2 wks and cost $1000 for me so don't have money to purchase all this extra stuff for right now Any help would be greatly appreciated, but I wanted to get this all down in writing as it was getting confusing in my head
  19. Something very strange has happened in my tank in the last three days. I tested my water before doing a 60% water change on Sunday (09/16/12) and these were the results: Ammonia: 0.00 Nitrite: 0.00 Nitrate: 10 - 20 ppm pH: 8.0 I tested the water tonight (09/19/12) because my fish is having weird poop and I knew I would need to fill out the form to post in the D&T section. The results are baffling to me: Tank: Ammonia: 0.25 Nitrite: 0.00 Nitrate: 5 ppm pH: between 7.2 and 7.4 (?!?) Tap: Ammonia: between 0.5 and 1.0 ppm Nitrite: didn't test Nitrate: 0.00 pH: 8.0 The only thing that changed in the tank was on Monday night I stuck a brand new sponge for a sponge filter in the back of my Aqua Clear 200 to seed it with good bacteria. I had to squish it in there a little bit and that seemed to slow the water flow somewhat, but not so much that water was spilling out the sides of the filter. This was a new sponge still sealed in the package, and I rinsed it with tap water before putting it in the tank. The two things that are most startling to me are the pH drop (I have very hard, alkaline water), and the high ammonia in the tap water. Our tap water has chloromines (or it can have them, I don't know if they use them all the time), but the last time I tested my tap for ammonia (about 3 weeks ago) it tested 0.00. So far the fish seem fine and are behaving normally. What could be causing this? Should I do a water change (with my high-ammonia tap water?)
  20. Hello again everyone! as some of you may know, I am starting up a new tank, and I am very much a newb... lol. Anyway, I am going to do a fishless cycle, and I'm looking for ammonia to use. I saw some stuff on amazon that comes in a little squeezie bottle, but its 8 bucks! (http://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-chloride-Aquarium/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348721740&sr=8-1&keywords=pure+ammonia) Would this be ok? (http://www.lowes.com/pd_214486-59800-19707555031_0__?productId=3246710&Ntt=ammonia&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dammonia&facetInfo=) Where did you guys get this ammonia! all of the ones I have seen are all sudsy and ugh. I have another small question as well, but I dont know if it really belongs here! If I am only going to get one fish, should I still have a QT? I dont really have the space! Thanks again, you guys are so helpful!
  21. I just did a 90% water change an my ammonia is still really high. It is the same amount of highness as before the water change! I couldn't get the 10 percent cause the siphons weren't working and it was to low to bail out. My filters are off, I tried getting as much poop as I could but the ammonia levels are TOO DARN HIGH. Ugh. I have to wake up early so I can't do another water change right now but I can tomorrow. I just don't get it.
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