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  1. I want to keep a record of the care of Sookie and Saber before I add them to the 55. 10/12/16 and 10/13 Sookie and Saber are in the 10 g in plain primed clean water. 10/14/16= 0.1% salt (ten teaspoons)- ten gallon 10/15/16= 0.2% salt (20 teaspoons) in the 10 gal 10/16/16= 0.3% salt (30 teaspoons) in the 10 gal Question: how long should I continue salt before starting prazi? Planning to continue 0.3% salt for two weeks.
  2. I've been doing water changes in Dolly's 10 gallon QT tank every day since I got her on August 25 2016. I plan to start powdered prazi today. Container says: 25 gr for entire container. Dosage is 10 grams/1000 gallon of water. If I'm dosing 10 gal, how much should I use? Here's my cutie just in case any body forgot
  3. I have a question regarding going on vacation during a QT process. Right now Sushi my son's oranda is in a 20g QT tub with .03% salt, and tomorrow will be the end of round 2 for PraziPro. I am leaving for vacation Thursday morning and returning Tuesday evening. My plan was to do 100% WC and add salt back to .03% on Wed night and also fasting that night until I return on Tuesday and then starting back the prazi schedule round 3 doing an 100%WC before of course. Does this sound right, or should I go about in a different manner. I am just nervous leaving my fish alone in a cycled tank never mind a fish in QT Any input greatly appreciated
  4. I'm planning to dose my main tank at .3% salt for parasite issues, and I was wondering if it would be possible to save my rooted plants. I don't have a ton of them, but I'd like to save them all the same. However, it seems that throwing them in a bucket might not work, right? Does anyone have any tips about saving rooted plants when I have to treat the main tank? I have some broad-leafed swords, dwarf sagittaria, and Italian vals.
  5. Hi everyone! I don't know if I have this in the right section or not, and I could not find any other threads addressing this (might have missed them), but how does one QT snails? Thanks so much!
  6. I've had my new little oranda, Victoria, in quarantine for a week now. She just finished 1 round of Prazi at .3% salt and seems mostly fine (eating, being excited, not gasping or bottom-sitting). I am quarantining her in a 10 gallon without a filter. Her poop, from what I can tell, looks OK, but I noticed when I did a 100% water change today that there was a lot of strange light-colored (kind of tan) and white material floating around in her water. It has a gossamer quality. Could it be her slime coat? I also noticed a tiny fray in her tail, so I'm worried that she is stressed. Is this "biofilm"? I was thinking of not feeding her for a day or two to see if the stuff is some kind of mystery poo.
  7. Hi, I was wondering if I could pick everyone's brains again... pretty please. I have to move a bristle nose pleco over from my tropical tank to my goldfish tank. The tropical tank has not as yet had prazi QT treatment. The tank he/she is going to is my 58gal Goldfish tank. It is cycling at the moment (for 7 days now), empty, but had two commets I there until yesterday. The commets had not had prazi either. My pOdge and my Louie are in QT at the moment and are going in the 58gal in 5 more days (if no more ich spots show) and they are then having their prazi treatment in the big tank. So my questions are... when should I move over the bn pleco? Which pleco should I move over? one is very slightly larger (just over an inch) and fairly outgoing and shos the smaller one (just under an inch but slimmer build; if there is such a thing in the pleco world) away from food. The smaller one is slightly harder to find during the day. I just wondered which personality would be best for the Goldfish? I make sure I feed them in two different spots so the smaller one has a chance to get some food. Thankyou all so much. I know I ask a lot of questions.
  8. Oftentimes, we suggest using the bucket to bucket method when QTing a fish, whether it's a new fish or a current fish that is sick. Occasionally when we recommend this method, people ask what we are talking about . Since I just got a new fish, I thought I would do a quick post on what's involved. You will need 2 tanks (or buckets), 2 airstones, water conditioner and any meds needed. You may need a heater (or two) if your treatment includes raising the tank temp. You will also need a very patient spouse, roommate, children as it kind of puts a damper on things in the kitchen if you set up like I do. Tank #1 (on the left). This is the tank that I just moved the fish out of. I removed the fish and water and rinsed the tank out. Depending on why you're QTing, you may want to sterilize the tank at this point with bleach or potassium permanganate. I then fill the tank and add the airstone. Tank #2 (on the right). I just moved the fish into the tank. I added Prime and am dissolving salt in a knee high pantyhose. Because the tank has been sitting out for 24 hours, the temp and pH are matched perfectly. If I was treating with anything besides salt, I would add those meds also. Here is the set up from farther away And here is my newbie in QT. Here is the salt, dissolving. Please note: I use this method if I am using a 10 gallon or smaller. If I'm using a bigger QT for larger fish, I typically will do large daily WCs and/or add a filter depending on the reason for QTing. Also, notice I have the tanks on a towel. Tomorrow when it's time to move new fishie, I will transfer him/her over to tank #1 and empty out tank #2. I will then slide tank #1 with fish over to where tank #2 currently is so that the empty tank can be rinsed and easily filled with the faucet hose.
  9. Hello again, People of Koko's! I've missed you guys. I've mostly avoided the internet while experiencing no problems besides stubborn wen-lessness with my two-year-old lionheads. This is a little long-winded, but please bear with me, because I don't know which aspects might be relevant and I don't want to leave something out. On the 18th of July I bought two little goldfish (each slightly under 2" with tails) at an independent fish store. I want to emphasize that this store has the healthiest stock I've ever seen. Even the goldfish have been as well-cared for as the rest, and this is a store specializing mostly in marine life! (They don't sell ANY BOWLS, or even a tank under 20 gallons!) I've been there several times and I've never noticed a fish of even questionable health status, plus every person working there (as tested with my weird questions) has seemed unusually skilled and well-qualified. Well, anyway, I only "needed" one goldfish, but I pessimistically bought two equally charming fish, figuring that if one died in QT, I'd still have one (and if both lived, hey, here's an excuse to upgrade!). Unfortunately, that tentative fear came true. The one still living is a calico crowned pearlscale, with a moderate (not completely spherical) body. The one who died was a calico bubble-eye, with such tiny, symmetrical bubbles that he looked like a celestial. Somewhat arbitrarily, based on body-to-tail shapes, I dubbed them female and male, respectively. Really, really adorable, both of them. On the 19th of July, I began QT in a clear tub (holding 12 gallons of water), using Salt+PraziPro procedure (specifics below to make this a little easier to read). For the first two days, both occasionally held their pectoral and pelvic fins a tad too close to their bodies for my comfort. But after that, they became energetic and healthy-seeming, and FRIENDLY, blowing bubbles at me when my hand was in the water and eating out of my fingers within a few more days! Nothing suspicious at all from either of them after they stopped their mild clamping, and this is coming from someone who tends to be paranoid when it comes to new goldfish health. On the 30th of July, the little bubble-eye was perky as ever until the late evening, when he started drifting sideways a little while swimming. It didn't seem like a deadly problem, so I sat and watched him while I tested the water so I could properly consult the People of Koko's. He quickly got worse and worse, and 5 minutes after I deemed it bad enough to stick him in a colander so the pearlscale wouldn't bug him, he was DEAD. Within about 45 minutes, he went from perfectly fine as far as I could tell, to DEAD. I didn't even have time to post here asking for help! I scooped out his little fish corpse and examined it externally for any signs as to what killed him. His underbelly was squishier than it should have been, but that was it. No visible red blood vessels (streaking) on his white fins, no bloating and not one scale sticking out. His body was perfectly symmetrical. There was nothing at all that I could see or feel besides the abnormally squishy underbelly to suggest what had killed him. Just to be on the safe side I immediately did a 100% W/C on the QT tank (and later a +90% change on the main tank with different equipment of course). The parameters of the QT tank were the same at the bubble-eye guy's death and right after the 100% W/C (and very similar to the daily results): 0 ppm ammonia and nitrites, and ~0.5 ppm nitrates (it's in the tap water); 7.6 pH; 70 degrees F/ 21 degrees C. SPECIFIC QT PROCEDURE: I'm using Morton's Canning and Pickling Salt (properly dissolved in boiling tank water that is then allowed to cool to room/tank temperature) and Prazi-Pro for treatment, doubled Seachem Prime to dechlorinate, and an API Freshwater Master Test Kit to test. The filter is a seeded AquaClear 30, filtering 12 gallons of water in an otherwise empty clear tub that's maybe 3-4 gallons larger than that volume. I'm doing a 100% water change on every 5th day since the daily-measured parameters are pretty much as outlined above, only with nitrates ranging from 0 ppm to 0.5 ppm (because they're in the tap water here). I had the salt at 0.3% for the first 10 days; since then it's been at 0.1%. This means that the bubble-eye died on the 12th day of QT, which was the 2nd day of 0.1% salt. Today (the 9th of August) I'm on the 4th round of Prazi-Pro. I have fed the goldfish small amounts of thawed frozen food (of a good brand, but I don't remember which) once daily (except on W/C day when I fast them), alternating between primarily vegetable-based green chunks with either bloodworms or brine shrimp. I called the owner of the fish store the following day and told him how the bubble-eye guy died, upon the assumption that informing the source of fish deaths is proper etiquette. He agreed with my guess that it was most likely an internal bacterial problem, and suggested various anti-bacterial products that I might want to treat the pearlscale with. But I don't know, I want to consult you all first. I know antibacterial water treatments cause more or less damage to the filter bacteria, and I fear that scooping out the pearlscale daily to do 100% water changes might stress her out too much to be a good thing (and I'd also soon run out of Prazi-Pro, which I had to buy in a city a four-hour round trip away). I know they can also create drug resistant strains of bacteria, and/or can quite possibly do harm or no good at all if the problem is non-bacterial or the wrong kind of bacterial. I've continued treating the pearlscale in QT and observing her closely, not knowing if she'd soon bite the dust like the other guy did. So far, so good. She seems just as energetic and friendly as ever. What do you all think I should do?
  10. So I purchased a new fish today. S/he is a tiny fantail purchased from- now don't kill me- Wal*mart. I know, I know, it's awful to purchase fish from there... But the lfs fish looked awful. And I mean awful. They got their stock in last Friday and what's left looked half dead. But I was already in a fish buying mood, and when we went to Wal*mart... S/he was so cute and tiny... And I also purchased air stones, canning salt and epsom salt. I set up a 10g with a small filter(uncycled), an airwand, a light, and .1% salt. I will (hopefully) be purchasing Prazi on Saturday, when I recieve my first paycheck. Is there anything else I should get? I haven't seen clamped fins or bottom sitting. The Wal*mart fishes were actually pretty healthy today, and I didn't see a single dead one, but... I want to do this right. EDIT: S/he also isn't moving around much, just hanging by the bamboo I put in. Is this normal?
  11. I'm freaking out. I have to go down to my grandmother's house tonight, and I won't be back home until Wednesday afternoon. I hate leaving for so long when Karpa (Girly Fishie) is so new in her QT! I've only had her for two days! Thankfully her salt is at the right level, .3%, and her filter should be cycled in a few days, as I jump started it(I knew I'd have to go, just not so soon). None of my fish will be able to get fed again until Monday afternoon when my siblings are brought home. I, however, have to stay and work!!! I wouldn't go down, but it's my big bro's graduation party tomorrow and then I have to work, and my parents are also leaving tomorrow for my great grandmother's funeral. So, I'm strapped for options. What can I do to keep her from DYING while I'm away? I'm not even sure she has enough surface disturbance to live safely. Would it be better if I just... Put her in with Kappa? I really don't want to. She's too small and probably pretty sick. I'm really freaking out. What can I do? If it wasn't okay for me to make a new topic, then mods please delete... I just really need help.
  12. A few questions about game planning the QT of my 2 week old fry... 1. Is Prazi Pro considered safe and what most people successfully use to QT fry? I have read that the liquid PP is too thick/oily and makes it hard for fry to breathe... these fish keepers use the powdered form of Prazi instead. 2. Could someone give me the correct dosage of the preferred product for 5 gallons of water? 3. As of now, I am transferring 35 fry from one clean container of water to another every two days. They are 14 days old and I am not using a filter yet…therefore no established cycle. I'm not sure how the Prazi schedule would look with replacing the water every two days. Or, will I have to keep them in one container and try to clean it with w/c as I go. 4. Is any salt involved in this process? Sorry for all of the questions. I have been very fortunate that all of my fry have made it, and they are growing like weeds!
  13. Hey all ! So I am ashamed to say that upon my visit to my lfs yesterday (Pet Shanty on route 22, for my fellow New Jersians ).... I made a bit of an impulsive decision .....After picking up some extra filter media for my cycling 20 gallon, I wandered over to the goldfish section. Now, I usually avoid doing this as this particular pet store always has GORGEOUS goldies, and I am a weak willed individual when it comes to self control lol Anyways, a super tiny lavender and yellow oranda caught my eye. I pointed him out to my boyfriend, who immediately responded with; You should totally get him! He's only like...what? 4 dollars? Of course, that was the only convincing I needed to quickly call over a sales associate to snatch him and bag him for me.... I know I may have jumped the gun on this one, but I figure I would have wanted to quarantine him anyways right? And he's probably much happier in the spacious 15 gallon rubbermaid than his previous overstocked petstore conditions.....right? Anywho, I spent most of yesterday running about my house like a crazy person in order to put together a makeshift QT environment lol He's got a cycled filter from my beta tank and an airstone..... planning on doing 80% water changes every day until his quarantine period is over. I was hoping to pick up some prazi pro, but the pet store didn't have any (i will be overnighting some from amazon hopefully...) Also, because he is in a rubbermaid.... I didn't put a heater in with him, so the water dropped to 60 degrees last night Does anyone have any experience using heaters in food safe plastic bins? I was afraid it would melt the plastic... He seems a bit sluggish today but I think that's due to the cold water.... Anyways, I snapped some shots of the little cutie Introducing Mochi !!! .....I named him due to his likeness to the yummy asian desert setting up his QT tub..... the little boogle is just over an inch long !!! (soooo tinyyyy :heart ) With the makings of some beautiful finnage if i do say so myself
  14. I bought my blue oranda last Monday. I am unsure of gender I have decided to name him Quinn after much uncertainty I believe this name goes either way, gender wise. He weighs 78gm and is 3.5 inches in body length plus 2in with tail He's' been on 0.3% salt since Tues afternoon 10/26 and is currently being quarantined in a 10gal that I'm doing WCs on daily or 2x/day depending on the gunk factor of water My first question if someone will be so kind. How much prazi should I use? Its the powder. Will you also show me the calculation of how you figured the answer please. And how many rounds must I do?! And from what I remember I shouldn't change the water every day when on prazi, right? So, should I fast Quinn and dose the tank with prime during this time? Keep going with 0.3% salt or decrease it? How do I know if I need double prazi or just regular strength? Sorry for slamming you all with these questions it says 10grams/1000gal on my prazi container BTW Quinn says to all the Kokonuts
  15. Given some recent debates elsewhere in the forum, I thought I would start a thread here, to start another discussion on QT and QT practices. We have had a lot of threads on this, but because the topic is of great importance, it's worth bringing up periodically. 1. There are two types of QTing: for new fish and for sick fish. - For new fish, the fish is placed in QT for numerous reasons: a) to give yourself time to observe the fish, b) to give the fish time to de-stress and familiarize itself with the new environment c) for you to do any necessary/appropriate treatments, such as flukes, other external parasites and de-worming - For sick fish, the fish is placed in QT: a) to prevent/minimize spread of disease to other fish in your main tank b) to prevent bullying of the sick fish by healthy fish c) to isolate and treat only the sick fish (healthy fish do not need to be exposed to meds unnecessarily) d) to save on costs of treatment. QT tanks only need to be 10 gallons in most cases. e) to better monitor sick fish's behavior and other things such as poop - Note: new fish can/do become sick fish, and for that, all the reasons why we QT sick also apply to new fish 2. Vets recommend that QTing is necessary (for the reasons presented above, but not just those), and the time recommended is 60-90 days. KGF mods recommend 4-6 weeks. Why such a long time for QT? - preventative treatments can take a while to finish, such as that of praziquantel for de-worming and flukes treatment. - illnesses sometimes take a while to manifest. This is the case with ich, anchor worm, and other intestinal worms. 3. Why treat at all? - it's almost a given that flukes is a fact of life for goldfish. It's virtually impossible to eradicate them, and the goal is to keep numbers always low. 4. What should I treat with? - salt and praziquantel for de-worming and to deal with external parasites. You should NEVER treat for bacteria or fungi, unless you see actual evidence of infections. 5. My LFS/breeder is very stringent. Why do I have to QT? - unless you know specifically how the fish are kept and/or treated, you actually don't know. I bought fish once where the supplier laced his water with copper but did not tell the buyers. When I got the fish, they develop ich two weeks later in QT, because copper is no longer there to suppress the parasites. - if your fish are shipped, then all bets are off. The stress of shipping can suppress the fish's immune system and cause subclinical infections to become clinical disease. - it's worth being cautious. While many times you are probably OK, but it is never worth contaminating your main tank, and cause diseases or deaths there. This has happened, and happened too frequently, unfortunately.
  16. This article outlines the quarantine process for new fish. It is meant as a general guideline. Please remember that it is always better to ask for a second and even third opinion prior to beginning any medications. Each situation is different and this QT protocol is not intended as a 'one size fits all', but is a place to start. If you ever have questions regarding quarantine procedures or treatment during quarantine, please start a thread on the forum and one of our many experienced and helpful members will be happy to assist you! Why Should I Quarantine? It is important to quarantine every new fish before adding them to your main tank. A quarantine period serves not only to protect your established fish from any pathogens your new fish may carry, but also to protect your new fish from any pathogens your established tank may have. Fish with healthy immune systems may carry a variety of pathogens at subclinical levels. However, a new fish that is stressed from shipping or a change in environment may have a depressed immune system and be unable to effectively fight low levels of pathogens that could be present in your main tank. Similarly, your new fish may carry different pathogens that could harm your established fish if they were exposed. The quarantine period also gives your new fish time to de-stress and build its immunity back up prior to being introduced to the main tank. How Do I Set Up A Quarantine Tank? Here are the things you will need: 1. Quarantine tank The size of your quarantine tank will depend on how large your fish are and how many fish you are quarantining at once. For most situations a 10 to 20 gallon tank is sufficient. If you do not have an aquarium available, a large food safe, clear storage bin makes a great QT container. The QT tank should be bare bottom (no substrate) and free from excess decoration. If you feel your fish may be more comfortable with some decoration in the tank, you can add 1-2 live or fake plants. A lack of substrate and other decoration helps to keep the tank environment as clean as possible while your fish is regaining its health. 2. Filter It is a good idea to keep an extra filter on hand that is only used for QT. This filter should have an output of 10x the tank volume in gallons per hour (gph). For example, if you are using a 10 gallon QT, your filter should run 100 gph. 3. Heater A heater is not always necessary. However, it is a good idea to have an extra heater on hand in case you need it. There are certain situations, such as when treating ich, that a heater is helpful. Make sure your heater is rated appropriately for your QT tank size. 4. Water Test Kit Every fish owner (whether you are in the process of quarantining a new fish or not) should own a water test kit. During QT it is particularly important to make sure that water parameters remain pristine, as clean water is a major contributor to the health of your fish. A drop test kit is preferable over test strips. The API Freshwater Master Test kit is an excellent choice and comes with everything you need to check your water quality. 5. Medications What medications you will need will depend on your particular situation. However, medications that are good to keep on hand include: Salt - Please see here http://www.kokosgold...he-use-of-salt/ Praziquantel – This comes in both a powdered from and a liquid form (prazipro). Prazi can be difficult to find in some countries. Australians should look for a product called Aqua Master Fluke and Tapeworm Tablets. Those in the UK should look for Kusuri Wormer Plus. Metromeds and MediGold – If you live in the US these two medicated foods can be bought online at https://www.goldfishconnection.com/ These medicated foods are not available outside of the US. If you are only able to buy one of these medications, it is best to have metromeds on hand, as this medicated food is used in more situations than MediGold. Please remember that these medications are only to have on hand if they are needed. You should never treat a fish who does not truly need these medications, and you should always consult others for a second and even third opinion prior to treating with these medications. Should my QT Filter be Cycled? If you are new to fish keeping and want more information on cycling please check out this link http://www.kokosgold....com/cycle.html A quarantine filter may be run cycled or uncycled. In many cases it is preferable to run a QT uncycled, as this diminishes chances of exposing your new fish to pathogens that could be hiding out in your cycled filter media. It also encourages more water changes, which is important during the QT period. If you choose to run your tank uncycled, you will need to do at least one large (50-100%) water change daily. How much and how frequently you need to change your water in an uncycled tank will depend on the tank size and how many fish are in it, a water test kit can be helpful in determining this. If you choose to cycle your QT filter, you can ‘seed’ it with some cycled media from your established tank. Please ensure that you only seed a QT filter when you have a main tank that has been healthy and free from illness. Whether you choose to use a cycled filter or not, frequent water changes are important during QT. A cycled filter does not eliminate the need for frequent changes. How Long Should I Quarantine my Fish? The QT period should be a minimum of 4 weeks for new fish, and may be up to two months or more depending on the situation and whether or not the fish demonstrates symptoms of illness. Even if your fish appears healthy initially it is important to QT them for the recommended amount of time, as some pathogens take time to present themselves and the fish may not demonstrate obvious symptoms of illness until several weeks into the QT period. How do I Quarantine my Fish? Before you start any QT procedure please make sure you contact your vendor for information on their recommended QT procedures. This is particularly important for fish bought from online vendors that may come with a warranty. It is important to follow their recommendations for QT in order to avoid voiding the warranty. For Fish Purchased From A Reputable Source: This is for fish that come from a source that you consider safe and reputable. The vendor may have a long history of good feedback and/or the other fish at the store you purchased your fish at appeared to all be in good health. 1.) Keep tank lights off most of the time for the first 1-2 days You may even want to cover the tank with a towel or blanket and only turn on lights when necessary. The darkness will help your fish de-stress. 2.) Raise salt to .3% for at least 1 week Please see link on salt above when choosing a safe salt to use. Remember to completely dissolve salt before adding it to the tank. Raise salt by .1% every 12 hours until you reach .3% .1% = 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon if you are using a coarse grain salt and ¾ teaspoon per gallon if you are using a fine grained salt. For increased accuracy, use a digital scale to weigh out 1 gram of salt per liter of water 3.) Begin daily water changesRemember to add back in the amount of salt you take out during water changes. For example, if you have a 10 gallon tank that has 30 teaspoons of salt in it, you will need to add back in 15 teaspoons if you do a 50% water change 4.) Observe your fish for any obvious signs of illness Symptoms to watch for include bottom sitting, flashing/darting, fin flicking, yawning, obvious external parasites such anchor worm, white spots on fins/body, white stringy poop, raised scales, refusal of food etc. If you have any concerns, please post in the Diagnosis and Discussion section of the forum for assistance http://www.kokosgold...sis-treatments/ For Fish Purchased from a Questionable Source: This procedure is for fish coming from a source that may have received poor reviews in the past and/or a store where many of the other fish appeared to be in poor health. 1.) Follow steps 1-4 outlined above 2.) Treat fish with praziquantel as a precautionary measure Please see here for Prazi treatment schedules: http://www.kokosgold...g-praziquantel/ During the final 1-2 weeks of your QT period you can also begin adding in small amounts of water from the main tank to the QT tank. Steve Hopkins of Rain Garden Goldfish suggests that this can assist the new fish become acclimated to the microbes etc. that they will encounter when moved to the main tank http://www.raingarden.us/goldfish-acclimation.htm At the end of the QT period, if your fish appears healthy, you may move them to the main tank, just make sure to match the temperature and pH of the main tank to the QT tank before introducing your new fish. This post has been promoted to an article
  17. Hey, so i have my new calico ryukin Asha in his QT chilling out on medication for some fish lice (argulus) and whatever else. But the tank is a 10 gallon, and he is about 3 inches (body measured without tail) Perhaps it's too small?? Ammonia goes up to about .5 PPM so I change the water. Second day of it rising again to .5 PPM So maybe I could get him into a 29 gallon? I'm not sure. I'd have to buy it but i wanna be sure first if this is something i can control for the 8 weeks i'd like to keep him in QT.
  18. I just finished a salt and prazi treatment just for a precautionary fluke treatment. I used my goldfish primary 20 gallon as her quarintine tank. I want to return the tank to a "normal" tank. What should I do now to filter media ?
  19. Hello! for stopping by here! i need some instructions This evening i am going to purchase a QT tank, filter, hood etc. Tomorrow i will be getting 3 new fishies! I'm so excited! So i have a few questions : 1) How should i set up my QT tank? I'm planning on taking filter media and gravel from one of my tanks to put in the QT tank to do an instant cycle. 2)How do i do the whole salt treatment thing? I am going to get some Morton canning salt. 3)What is flukes? 4)I'm going to be QTing 3 GF at once (very small babies, most likely less than 2 inches. They will be in the QT tank which is 10 gallons (long) for 2-4 weeks. THNAK YOU FOR HELPING !!!
  20. hey there! i was just wondering how to keep the BB alive in a QT tank when its not in use? Thank you
  21. Hey there! My 65 gallon is fully cycled and ready for fishies! I put my beatiful black moor in about a week ago, and now im ready to buy 4 more Goldies:D I will be getting either 3 Orandas and 1 Fantail or 2 Orandas and 2 Fantails:) I have never done a QT before (i am only 3 months into the hobby) so i have some questions:) 1) how big does my QT tank hve to be? Minimum? Can i QT multiple fish together i they come from the sane tank/store? 2) for how long (minimum) do they need to be QT? 3) do i need a light? Filter? 4) i really dont have that much $$ to spend, so ko i HAVE to QT? Thank you!
  22. I was wondering should I use prazi and salt on the fish I already have before I get a new fish or do you think it'll be fine if I get a new fish and QT them then add them to the tank. I was just curious because when I got Bear and Zora I barely knew anything about fish so I didn't QT them. I also was wondering this because I read that fish can look perfectly healthy yet host parasites for awhile before showing signs and that's why you should QT a new fish. Do you think they'll be fine? And sorry I didn't know what section to post this under,.
  23. As some of you know today, I stopped by my favorite LFS a couple of hours away, and while I was there, saw these two, and just had to have them. The owners gave me a stupendous discount. I am not sure where I am going to put them yet, since I am going to have to shuffle things around a bit, including layout some new tubs/tanks. For tonight, they are in a 10 gallon QT, but tomorrow I will most likely move them into a 25+ gallon tub. They are huge. In any case, I got a discount because they just got over a bout of ich, and a tankmate was discovered to have anchor worm. So, these fish are being very rigorously QT'd. I'm not sure how they will do, but I am hoping that I can help them be/stay healthy. I don't have names for them yet, and won't until they are done with QT. Wish us all luck and health, please! Thank you.
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