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  1. I have a goldfish with severe dropsy. The subject lives with two other goldfish in a 20 gallon tank. He is the largest and has grown to be 8" long; the other two are about 5" long. The water quality is regularly maintained and measures well. One of the fish (I forget which) developed dropsy over the spring and I successfully treated that one with Kanoplex. I caught this goldfish early also and so was hopeful, however. the disease has progressed. The goldfish has "inflated" over the past couple weeks. He actually looks worse than the photo below but seemed happy and was eating normally so I left him in the tank with his family. Finally, four days ago I moved him into a hospital tank. He continues to eat although he does not like the hospital tank. My question is: will my goldfish "get better"? Or he forever look like a giant golden pinecone? When will it be safe to return him to the regular tank with his family? Thank you!
  2. This seems to come out from under a scale. Yesterday it was several times as long. Is this "cotton wool fungus" Have had the goldfish for years and not seen it before. Thank you!
  3. I brought this goldfish Flubber home from vet tech school. There they use them to teach Anesthesia and blooddraws and radiographs to the vet tech students. He seems very pineconeish and fat. He sits near the bottom and does nothing. He does eat and gets lively for food then will sit and gasp for minutes afterward. His poop is thick and black and sometimes a stringy clearish grey. He eats goldfish flakes and I fed him a little oats yesterday. Can you help me? I don't know how to treat him and I don't want him to die!
  4. I'm back...again Quick update - Winston & Piggy both moved into the new tank (600 litres) on Saturday afternoon along with the old/existing Fluval FX6 (I cleaned it in fresh Primed water several times as recommended). The tank has 1" layer of TMS, airstone and 2 FX6 filters (the other is completely brand new) running at 24.5*C. Overall dimensions are 6' x 2' x 2' Yesterday I thought Winston was looking puffy. This morning he's definitely pineconing. I've transferred him to a QT (40 litres) with 1/2tsp of Epsom (20g). I have Oxymav B on hand, as recommended by FishyMandy for dropsy cases. Aside from the raised scales, he's not showing any issues - his redness has gone completely (no wen rash, no blotches on sides or lateral line and the redness in his tail is subsiding). Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) – 0.25ppm * Nitrite Level(Tank) – 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tank) – 5ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) – 0.25ppm * Nitrite Level(Tap) – 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tap) – 5ppm. Nitrates out my tap are generally 20-40ppm so I use a Pozzani filter to filter the water into tubs which I treat with Prime and usually let sit for 24hrs before adding to the tank. The ‘tap’ figures above are the levels in the water that has been filtered, treated and stood. * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) – 8.2ph * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) – 7.4ph Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API freshwater master kit (drops) * Water temperature? – 24.5C * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? Approx. 600litres, running 1 week total but 2 only days with fish (prior to that, Juwel Rio 240 litres, running 2.5 years) * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? 2 x Fluval FX6 (3500lph) - #1 set up on 01-Dec, #2 set up on 13-May * How often do you change the water and how much? Yet to do a WC - planned to do tomorrow - 200 litres (third) * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? N/A * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 in total. Chocolate Oranda “Piggy” approx. 3 years old (6” body), White Oranda “Winston” approx.. 3 years old (4” body) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? Saki Hikari purple bag, seaweed, bloodworm (frozen), Tetra Gold Japan, Hikari Oranda Gold (saturated using a pellet pump), occasional veggie usually peas/lettuce/cucumber * Any new fish added to the tank? No * Any medications added to the tank? Fluke Solve added on Saturday as soon as the fish were introduced * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Melafix and Pimafix to main tank 9-Oct to 14-Oct Salt Dips (Winston) 15-Oct to 20-Oct (max. 2% for 5 mins) Fluke Solve to main tank 29-Oct to 12-Nov (2 weeks) Salt @ 0.3% Silver Dips (Winston) 29-Oct to 9-Nov Fluke Solve in QT tank (Winston) 12-Nov to 26-Nov (2 weeks) Salt @ 0.3% Metro+ & Furan-2 in QT tank (Winston) 18-Dec to 31-Dec Metroplex & Kanaplex in QT tank (Winston) 29-Jan to 08-Feb Metroplex in QT tank (Winston) 10-Feb to 16-Feb Fluke Solve & Metroplex in QT tank (Winston) 26-Feb to 04-Mar (1 week) Silver in QT tank (Winston) 07-Mar to 13-Apr - 10 drops initially, raising to 25 drops Winston reintroduced to main tank on 14-Apr Fluke Solve & Metroplex to main tank 15-Apr to 29-Apr Silver added to main tank (20 drops) the night before every WC starting 02-May Fluke Solve added to new tank 20-May * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Winston displaying raised scales * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? None Meds on hand include - Fluke Solve, Oxymav B, Acriflavine, Metroplex, Kanaplex, Sulfaplex, Focus, Triple Sulfa, Furan-2 & Silver
  5. A new oranda, named Howie, is in my hospital tank and I need a little assistance helping him through a couple of disease/illnesses he has. I knew I shouldn't have bought him but no one can resist those chubby cheeks. As far as I know... he has dropsy, fin rot, fish lice, open sores, and flukes. Show all the signs: pine-coning, eroding fin edge, green disk all over his tail and moving to his body, and clamped fins. Surprisingly though he is semi-active and always eats all the food I provide. Treatment started 3 days ago with .3%, kanaplex, and an 80 degree temperature. I'm trying to knock out the dropsy and fin rot. He is still pine-coned but I remain hopeful. The kanaplex says to only do 3 doses maximum every 2 days for a total of 6 days of treatment. Is it okay to extend treatment past that if I do need to treat more? I figured I would treat him for flukes after he healed from the dropsy. I didn't want to do too much treatment as to cause more stress. Don't want to throw the kitchen sink at him. Or, is it okay to do that now? As for the fish lice. I know they are feeding on him like a tick would a dog. That in turn weakens him so I'm worried that it could prolong the dropsy or result in something else dramatic. What should I treat to get rid of those things? I've heard salt does nothing and that potassium permanganate dips do wonders. But I have no idea has to how to go about treatment. Or if it just adding more undue stress. Also, do I need to manually remove the lice?
  6. Well.. once again Im experiencing dropsy.. (So yes Taryl, Im a horrible fishkeeper, Lol..jk ) I have 2 mailed lionheads that arrived in March 30, in what it seemed to be good conditions They're still in a 20G QT One is (still) in perfect conditions but the other black/bronze one started to get red pimples and excessive slime on the wen a few days after arrival so I notified the seller and he recommended a few (10 second) peroxide dips. First dip.. good Second dip.. a little more time to recoup and some sideways Third deep.. more time to recoup and lethargic On April 12 I noticed some prickle to the scales but didn't think any of it since I was told that ranchus sometimes experience that without being sick I sent today some pictures to the seller and he corroborates that it is an early stage of dropsy but cannot recommend anything specific since it could be caused by different internal problems.. pristine water along with antibac water treatment and/or medicated food is his suggestion Im doing the questionnaire in a few minutes.. Thanks! Here's what I've done so far Mar 30: Arrival, covered tank Mar 30 -1: De-stress days (just WC & double prime) Apr 2: 75%WC + 76g salt (.1%) Apr 3: add 76g salt (.2%) Apr 4: 100%WC + 228g salt (.3%) Apr 6: 75%WC + 170g salt (.3%) Apr 8: 75%WC + 170g salt Apr 10: 75%WC + 170g salt + 10sec peroxide dip (8:1 ratio) Apr 12: 75%WC + 170g salt + 10sec peroxide dip Apr 14: 75%WC + 170g salt Apr 16: 10sec peroxide dip prior to WC 100%WC + 76g salt (to reduce at .1%) + .2g prazi powder Apr 8: 75%WC + 56g salt (.1%) + .2g prazi powder
  7. Quinn has dropsy I can't handle it 55gallon 3small to medium fish. Tank params are(last WC was 3/23): Ph 8 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5-7 I feed a mixture of omega one gf, NLS goldfish pellets, NLS Thera A, saki hikari (purple bag) all mixed together in jar and fed daily. Once or twice a week will get FBS or FBW. I do 80% wc weekly. Meds available: melafix, parasite guard, maracyn, furan-2, metronidazole, kanaplex, life guard, pure oxolinic acid powder, API triple sulfa, and metro meds opened 2013 I will weigh Quinn and take pics and post in a minute.
  8. Citrus was doing so much better the last couple of days, just a little floatiness but was vastly improving and I thought she was going to beat this. Then just an hour ago I found her upside down stuck to the intake tube unable to free herself. This is the worst I have ever seen her. She has been on a trial run of cocoa/repashy food mix for floatiness. I gave it to her 1-2x daily. Since giving her this is when I saw the major improvement, so I cut it down to just feeding 1x daily,( I was working a lot and so I didn't want to leave her in the hands of a family member possibly overfeeding is why I just fed it to her the 1x daily) and then this happens. She currently weighs *93g* as of 9-3-15 * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) 5ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrate level(Tap) 5ppm * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.0 kh6 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.2 kh2 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API liquid drops * Water temperature? 76 *F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 75g running a couple of weeks as it i an upgrade from 40b * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? SunSun HW404b canister(525gpg) and AC 110 (500gph) * How often do you change the water and how much? 50% every 2-3 days max * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? yesterday 50% * How many fish in the tank and their size? (5) 3+" * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? just a mouth full 3x a day * Any new fish added to the tank? no * Any medications added to the tank? .03% salt for ICH treatment started on (8-15-15) treatment ended as I saw they had no ICH. I continued salt and heat for a remaining 10 day period. Treatment ended 9/3/15 * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Prazi and salt treatment 4+ rounds 5 months ago. .03% salt for ich treatment on 8-15-15 ending on 9/3/15 * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? no * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Pineconing, upside down at top of surface **Note: She is currently in a 10 gal QT with 2 tsp Epsom salt *** Meds I have on hand: Epsom Furan 2 Seachem Metro and Kana Powder Metro Meds (still unopened) MediGold (still unopened) Canning Salt I wonder if I should have lowered the QT to the 5 gal mark?? I have 2 tsp of Epsom in there now. If I siphon out 5 gal will that mess with the epsom amount?
  9. Hi, I had posted a couple weeks ago about my friend's oranda that appeared to have dropsy (raised scales, round body-fluid retention body and eye area). To recap, she does not really do water changes but she has done 2 since I last posted, did kanaplex, still on metroplex, and Epsom. The oranda is still eating, definitely rounder-whole body, more raised scales, and does swim but not like a 'normal' goldfish. Is this dropsy or could it be something else? Any thoughts on how long a fish like this can/will live? The fish overall seems okay all considered, is this fair to the fish? I feel bad for the fish but I am at a loss of what to tell her and what else to do. Thanks for any input : )
  10. Hi, My friend's 2 year old female oranda sounds like she has dropsy, my friend said she is pineconing, very mild yesterday & more pronounced this afternoon. She started kanaplex & epsom salt last night, would metroplex be recommended with kanaplex or just kanaplex or just metroplex? I can post (or try to) post pictures tonight, I know she doesn't test her water, has 2 goldfish in a 20 gallon, and does minimal water changes. I have talked to her extensively about goldfish care/maintenance and her current set up is an improvement. Any advice is very much appreciated : )
  11. Hello. I think one of my fishies has dropsy and here you can see photos I took. I was advice to treat with magnesium sulfate that is found in Epsom salt aka English salt, metronidazole and kanamycin ingredients which are found in Seachem Metroplex and Seachem Kanaplex but I am outside of US and don't have luxury of wide selection of products. Local shops do not seem to have those but they may have Sera Baktopur Direct which company recommends to use with Sera Ectopur that should complement treatment. I have 35 litre container for quarantine and want to know what are the steps to proceed with treatment. When I use Epsom salt? Do I use it to prepare water and then dropsy medication? How often I change water and add Epsom salt again and is it safe to add both? Should proceed with procedure even if not absolutely positive about fish' dropsy condition because I don't know how treatment will impact fish provided condition is different. • 4.7 gals since middle 2011 when I got aquarium • JEBO water filter • 50% water changes - 3 times one week, 2 times another week and repeat • No water additives - only dechlorinator • Sticks in the morning • No new fish ever • No medications so far
  12. I'm a big stump on what is happening to my poor fishy. I have a black fancy goldfish who currently has dropsy. She still eats and I've been feeding her pees while her medicated food comes via mail. She's had dropsy for but now. But so far she's really fighting to stay alive so I'm detrmend to get her feeling better. I've been doing Epsom salt baths which looks like really helps her because she starts swimming around once she's back in the quarantine tank. Problem I'm having is I keep change her water because it gets dirty like the next day a rally of things are inside the tank attached to the walls of aquarium. It looks like she's able to digest the pees because green poop comes out but like I said I'm stumped with the additional items unidentifiable in the tank. At fist I thought the filter was the problem so I removed it. But still happened. Need help ; ~ ; I use aquarium water from main tank whic has below water levels. PH - 7.0 Ammonia - .25ppm Nitrite- 0ppm nitrate .50 ppm Tempature at 80F Using melafix pimafix Any suggestion is really appreciated.
  13. Hi, I had 2 large orandas in a 55g for about one year with weekly water changes. I slacked on my water changes for 2 1/2, maybe 3 weeks (mainly due to unforeseen work needs) and the one oranda developed dropsy and died within about 4 days. That was 2 days ago, I had put him in a qt tank in the evening, she/he was gone by morning. My question is-do I need to do anything for my remaining oranda? He/she seems okay-swimming, eating, no raised scales. My other question is-I would like to take down the 55g & put the oranda in with my large fantail which is in a 40g breeder. When would that be okay to do? I know better about the water changes and have learned a sad lesson the hard way. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.
  14. Hi guys, My redcap oranda appears to have dropsy Would anyone be able to give me some advice on whats the best thing to do please. Hes been separated from the tank so hes now on his own. Hopefully these photos help Thank you
  15. My little ranchu has always been "lazy" in that she's kinda hung out at the bottom of the tank. When she sees me she'll usually start swimming around and begging for food. Lately though I've noticed her doing it more and today when I fed her she wasn't that interested. Now that I've had a much closer look I think I may have spotted some of her scales sticking out. She finally got the food I dropped in for her and ate it and then started swimming around again. I'm not sure if she's just being lazy or if she really does have something wrong with her. I hope you guys can let me know if it's dropsy or not and if so what I can do to help her. Thank you!
  16. So - here is what I have done so far. I woke up this morning and Speckle was pineconing slightly. She had been a little listless lately, but was eating/pooping fine and wasn't floaty or anything. The males have been chasing her around all over the place so I just figured she was tired. Anyway, I rushed to get her set up in the QT (10 gallon) before I had to leave for class and work, and started maracyn 2. I don't have a heater in there yet and have not done anything else since getting home 10 minutes ago. She is still tired looking, still alive (thank goodness!!!) and the pineconing has not gotten worse. What else should I do??? Thank you for any help...I feel so awful that my poor water piggy is sick
  17. My beloved Miss Piggy has dropsy. Not entirely certain why since all the others are just fine, but I guess she is just sensitive. She had damaged her swim bladder pretty bad, which at first even went away but progressively became worse, and now since yesterday I see her scales sticking out and bulging eyes. She is upside down and looks miserable (she's usually the most active/greedy/interactive). I did a full water change yesterday as soon as I saw that and am going to clean the filters and change water again today.. but seeing as the dropsy part of this seemed to have happened sometime between friday and saturday.. I dont know what my chances are on helping her survive this. Have many of you been able to heal someone after dropsy? Obviously the sooner you treat the better the chances with anything but I read on here once its at that staged they are pretty much doomed
  18. Hello folks! I just picked up three juvenile goldfish - one calico fantail (1 inch body) and two pearlscales (1.5 body for both of them). They were selected for being curious, active, and cute, of course. Still unnamed, for the moment. They're in quarantine in a ten gallon tank I had on hand and already running. It's planted and has filter media, which isn't ideal, but I don't mind decimating it if need be and it was just sitting there, so I figured working with a stable, trouble free tank with no other occupants (save a lone nerite) was simple enough. We're doing 90% water changes every two days, given the bioload in the tank. They're also being treated with prazipro and salt as per the recommended procedure I picked up from this site. The fantail and one pearly look great - foraging, curious, swimming well. But the other pearlscale has been a bit floaty and, upon closer inspection, I think may be retaining some fluid or constipated. The thing is, I'm having a hard time telling what is typical pearlscale shape and scale characteristics and what might be mild dropsy. The other pearlscale looks smoother and less round, but I have only had them a day and cannot compare them, before and after, to tell what looks healthy for each fish. So tell me, does this pearlscale look ill or normal? She's a little less active than the other fish but some of that seems to be due to the floaty issues. Still, I think I need more eyes and brains on this than just my own! I don't know what they may have had exposure to at the LFS, hence the preventative prazipro and salt, but let me know if I'm missing something (and do move this if it is better suited to another section.
  19. I am so depressed.... my little girly betta is majorly pine-conned now. This has happened to almost every betta I have ever owned at some point. I have NO IDEA what caused this, and it is really getting me down. I know exactly how to treat this, as I have done it so many times, and have been successful a couple times, but eventually the bettas do succumb to the dropsy at a later time. All I have to treat her at the moment is some most likely expired Metro-meds, since I ran out of Metro powder and forgot to reorder it.. She seems to love the metro-meds, so I am hoping it works.... My poor girl I just really needed to rant to you guys because this seems to happen to me so often and it really gets me down. I know for a fact I am doing everything right, so I just have no idea what to do... I think I am going to stick to only tetras in that tank from now on because I get way less emotionally attached to them...
  20. I just got home for the weekend and found that Snowflake has dropsy. Pineconing, popeye, not acting right, white poop. I'm picking up a hospital tank right now, so this post is on the go. I have MMs. Ive never dealt with dropsy before. What should I do??
  21. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) - 0.00 ppm * Nitrite Level(Tank) - 0.00 ppm * Nitrate level(Tank) - 10 ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) - 1.00 ppm * Nitrite Level(Tap) - 0.00 ppm * Nitrate level(Tap) - 0 ppm * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - 8.2 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - 8.2 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops * Water temperature? 77 F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 135 gallons, running just under a year * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Fluval FX5, AquaClear 500 * How often do you change the water and how much? weekly, 90% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Sunday 10/6, 90% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 6 fish, 3 medium-sized, 3 large * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? Soilent Green, once a day * Any new fish added to the tank? no * Any medications added to the tank? Prazi, one dose on Sunday. Salt at 0.1% * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. see above * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Looks bloated, some red dots on the stomach area * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? see below He was fine this morning. I fed them, he ate some Soilent Green, everything seemed normal. When I got home from work, he was just hanging out in the top corner for a long time, which he never does. So I coaxed him out with the net and realized he was not looking good at all. I just tried to feed him some MMs and he won't eat, just spits them out. I'm extremely worried.
  22. Well, all of a sudden Asha was upside down and the disease, whatever it was, advanced very fast. Poor fish. RIP
  23. i'm gona try to post a video i took of this little guy. all my water conditions are normal, its just this one little fish that has been sick for a long time and everyone else is great. i got him at petsmart in mid march.. i thought he was a little "different" looking and maybe consitpated looking but seemed like i could just feed him peas and seemed healthy otherwise, but im now convinced that he is stunted and thats why he looks kind of weird in his face/eyes, and am wondering if all his health conditions are because of it or not, or if i should just euthanize him, or give him away to someone willing to spend even more money on treatments for him. im not sure how to tell if he is suffering in pain or not. he definitely 'looks' uncomfortable to me. and seems to get knocked around by the bigger fish. he was fine for about a week after being fed peas, then he started looking really more bloated in his butt area, it is really big and round more so than the other orandas i have under the tail. and had started pine coning, he has been bloated and pineconing with bulged eyes since april. now he is getting some red streaking. and has had a few scale injuries from the water changing hose because he isnt healthy enough to always stay away from it, he swims and still tries to eat but sometimes he swirls around like his belly wants to float. today ive now noticed a buldge or bubble looking lump under one of his eyes. my fish eat sinking hikari products and peas regularily. since april he has been treated with epsom salt, aquarium salt, dropsy meds, prazi-pro, Proform LA (because of another fish in the tank), and liquid mardel maracyn plus antibacterial antibiotics, melafix and pimafix.. (of course with appropriate water changes and time in between) with absolutely NO results on him what so ever. i still have some of the antibiotics and prazi pro left(but i dont see this to be fluke). im not sure if i should give more antibiotics or just quit? or what i should do, i would be sad but im accepting of euthanasia if i can get some confirmation that it is best. or could he be saved by some other treatment im not aware of or just let him be until he dies in the tank? i never have any good luck with isolating a fish they always seem to die in a day or two when i do that. he never looks any better no matter what ive done and little by little he seems to be getting more and more things wrong with him. please help with any ideas or advise. thanks (its taking a looong time for this video to load so im going to come back with it and post it later if i can figure out how)
  24. Okay so today I picked up 5 male guppies from my moms bosses tank at work. It is ridiculously overstocked because the guppies just keep breeding and they don't do anything about it. I can't fill out the form because it is not my tank so I don;t have any readings, but I know it gets a cleaning maybe once a month if their lucky, and they throw out the filters and everything (so it never stays cycled) Ugh. I tried telling her how to properly take care of them and said I would come clean it but she doesn't really care. SO anyways, four of them look like they have lifted scales (which I didn't notice until I got home because it is really hard to see on these tiny little guys!) and are pretty bloated if you look from the top. I'm not sure if it could be from overfeeding and constipation (because I know they really overfeed them too) or if it would be from an infection or something. They do rarely ever have deaths (which is amazing) so I'm wondering if it really could just be overfeeding.... I can attempt a picture but I really don't think I will be able to get a good one since the scales are so darn small. I will QT them of course but what should I do for them??
  25. Dropsy Name of Symptom: Dropsy Other names: None Type of disease: Bacterial or viral Occurrence: Fairly common, affects all types of freshwater fish. NOTE: Dropsy is NOT a disease, it is a SYMPTOM to a bacteria or secondary bacterial infection. Symptoms include: often a markedly swollen body in most but not in all cases, scales sticking up (giving a pinecone appearance), disinterest in swimming with the group, lethargy and possible loss of appetite. sometimes, popeye can be seen as it too is a bacteria related symptom. Caused by: uneaten foods not cleaned out of the tank quickly enough can cause rotting and form bacteria gravel in the tank not cleaned often or thoroughly enough can cause uneaten food and fish waste to become trapped and rot to form bacteria hollow ornaments in the tank left unclean for too long can trap stagnant water and create bacteria parasitic infestations can cause microscopic lesions through the slime coat and causing enough damage which when left untreated a, because we can't see the parasites or b, because we don't know what we are seeing is a parasite, then turns into a secondary infection which can lead to dropsy and other unfortunate illnesses. internal parasites that have caused enough damage to allow infection to thrive can result in dropsy (because we can't see it happening or aren't aware of the signs) Indications of bacteria present leading to dropsy: step 1- fish is sick and shows either to float at top, sink to bottom of tank or huddle in a corner for long periods of time. step 2- fish swells either behind the gills or lower belly step 3 - fish's scales lift either behind gills or around belly Treatment: Immediately QT the Dropsy fish in a minimum 8 gallon tank with heater to 76-80F and adequate aeration via means of air pump with air stone/wand. Observed successful treatments have been 1. Epsom Salt 2. Metronidazole or a Metronidazole based Antibiotic. As well as the medications, it is important to do daily water changes preferably 100% of water to be changed daily. Where MetroMeds (a goldfish connection product) are able to be purchased and received or supplied, we recommend their immediate commencement as the preferred Antibiotic for Dropsy. Alternatively, Metronidazole tablets, powder or liquid can be purchased online and made into medicated gelfood, dosage depends on the weight of your affected fish. This is very important as to avoid overdosing. Epsom salt will assist in resolving the retained fluid within the fish causing it to bloat/swell however, treating with Epsom only will not resolve the bacterial issue that caused the fish to Dropsy. It is important that an antibiotic is used also as this will treat the bacteria/infection that has caused these symptoms in your fish. Epsom salt draws out the retained fluid that causes the fish to bloat. It can only be used for 8 consecutive days. If used for longer periods of time, it can cause anaemia to the fish. Anaemia is incurable, the fish will die from loss of blood either from bleeding gills or uncased bleeding from the vent. The correct dose for Epsom salt is ¼ teaspoon for every 10 US gallons of water. it's such a small amount of product, however it brings the desired results at a pace where the fish can handle it without adverse effects. Metronidazole needs to be fed taking into consideration the weight of the fish. The fish needs to consume 1% of it?s body weight of medicated gelfood or MetroMeds daily in order for the medicine to take effect. Depending on how aggressive the bacteria is, the course of medicated food can be 14 days or a full 30 days. We begin treatment anticipating a treatment period is of 14 days is only what is required, but, depending on how long it?s been since the fish returned to normal health, sometimes we need treat the full 30 days. the water is heated to tepms 76-80F to increase the motabolsim, by doing this, the medicines are received faster as digestion is sped up. There is no guarantee that the fish can be saved. The information posted here is from treatment methods used by members of this forums that have successfully treated and resolved the symptom of Dropsy in their fish. The Bacteria causing the symptom Dropsy can be an isolated problem to the individual fish or it can affect the entire community. Once the sick fish is in QT and being treated, the aquarist must then do whatever possible to eliminate any possible trace of bacteria within the tank that the affected fish came from. Here is what we normally advise: ensure that there is not too much gravel for fish waste/uneaten food to be trapped in creating bad bacteria and releasing its gasses into the community ensure that you are not using hollow ornaments.. if so, either remove them and replace them with something safer or have them filled with aquarium safe silicone. Stick to a good schedule for tank maintenance.. ie, weekly water changes with a good cleaning of ornaments, gravel (if any), wiping all exposed glass surfaces etc Clean filters regularly.. lots of horrible substances such as fish waste and uneaten foods as well as parasites can be trapped in filter pads, filter media. (try to clean the in/out filter tubes also) Treating Dropsy can be hit and miss, i personally have successfully treated some, but have also lost a few. Parasites such as flukes that cannot be seen by the naked eye, can create secondary bacterial infections where this too can lead to dropsy. Parasites internal such as worms etc can also create secondary bacterial infections that can present symptoms of dropsy. Female fish who are binding eggs which are fouling within their bellies (unable to spawn) can also be subject to bacteria which can present the symptom of dropsy. So it is important that the fish are observed regularly to understand the typical behaviour of them. As soon as something is off, then something is wrong. Immediately check the tank?s water parameters with your test kit and write down the results. Take a few pictures (preferably top view and one of each eye) and possibly a video and start a post in the 911 section for assistance. Note: A fish that has suffered dropsy in the past in my opinion and experience remains sensetive to immediate environment changes (in the tank) such as sudden temperature changes, PH swings and/or the addition aquaruim salt. a fish that has been a victim of Dropsy symptoms should never be treated with aquarium salt again as this can trigger dropsy symptoms to return, other methods of treatment should be engaged. here are a few examples of a dropsied fish: this example of a female Ryukin with scales lifted and no swelling indicating possible internal parasites here is a female Ranchu that has a uniform swollen body indicating something funky floating around in the tank.. and i was true, there was undetected rust poisoning occuring: here is a pic of a stunted female Ryukin who in this pic is 6 years old. she is egg bound. swelling is to the lower belly as is the pineconing:
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