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Found 12 results

  1. This seems to come out from under a scale. Yesterday it was several times as long. Is this "cotton wool fungus" Have had the goldfish for years and not seen it before. Thank you!
  2. I brought this goldfish Flubber home from vet tech school. There they use them to teach Anesthesia and blooddraws and radiographs to the vet tech students. He seems very pineconeish and fat. He sits near the bottom and does nothing. He does eat and gets lively for food then will sit and gasp for minutes afterward. His poop is thick and black and sometimes a stringy clearish grey. He eats goldfish flakes and I fed him a little oats yesterday. Can you help me? I don't know how to treat him and I don't want him to die!
  3. I'm back...again Quick update - Winston & Piggy both moved into the new tank (600 litres) on Saturday afternoon along with the old/existing Fluval FX6 (I cleaned it in fresh Primed water several times as recommended). The tank has 1" layer of TMS, airstone and 2 FX6 filters (the other is completely brand new) running at 24.5*C. Overall dimensions are 6' x 2' x 2' Yesterday I thought Winston was looking puffy. This morning he's definitely pineconing. I've transferred him to a QT (40 litres) with 1/2tsp of Epsom (20g). I have Oxymav B on hand, as recommended by FishyMandy for dropsy cases. Aside from the raised scales, he's not showing any issues - his redness has gone completely (no wen rash, no blotches on sides or lateral line and the redness in his tail is subsiding). Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) – 0.25ppm * Nitrite Level(Tank) – 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tank) – 5ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap) – 0.25ppm * Nitrite Level(Tap) – 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tap) – 5ppm. Nitrates out my tap are generally 20-40ppm so I use a Pozzani filter to filter the water into tubs which I treat with Prime and usually let sit for 24hrs before adding to the tank. The ‘tap’ figures above are the levels in the water that has been filtered, treated and stood. * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) – 8.2ph * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) – 7.4ph Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API freshwater master kit (drops) * Water temperature? – 24.5C * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? Approx. 600litres, running 1 week total but 2 only days with fish (prior to that, Juwel Rio 240 litres, running 2.5 years) * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? 2 x Fluval FX6 (3500lph) - #1 set up on 01-Dec, #2 set up on 13-May * How often do you change the water and how much? Yet to do a WC - planned to do tomorrow - 200 litres (third) * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? N/A * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 in total. Chocolate Oranda “Piggy” approx. 3 years old (6” body), White Oranda “Winston” approx.. 3 years old (4” body) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? Saki Hikari purple bag, seaweed, bloodworm (frozen), Tetra Gold Japan, Hikari Oranda Gold (saturated using a pellet pump), occasional veggie usually peas/lettuce/cucumber * Any new fish added to the tank? No * Any medications added to the tank? Fluke Solve added on Saturday as soon as the fish were introduced * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Melafix and Pimafix to main tank 9-Oct to 14-Oct Salt Dips (Winston) 15-Oct to 20-Oct (max. 2% for 5 mins) Fluke Solve to main tank 29-Oct to 12-Nov (2 weeks) Salt @ 0.3% Silver Dips (Winston) 29-Oct to 9-Nov Fluke Solve in QT tank (Winston) 12-Nov to 26-Nov (2 weeks) Salt @ 0.3% Metro+ & Furan-2 in QT tank (Winston) 18-Dec to 31-Dec Metroplex & Kanaplex in QT tank (Winston) 29-Jan to 08-Feb Metroplex in QT tank (Winston) 10-Feb to 16-Feb Fluke Solve & Metroplex in QT tank (Winston) 26-Feb to 04-Mar (1 week) Silver in QT tank (Winston) 07-Mar to 13-Apr - 10 drops initially, raising to 25 drops Winston reintroduced to main tank on 14-Apr Fluke Solve & Metroplex to main tank 15-Apr to 29-Apr Silver added to main tank (20 drops) the night before every WC starting 02-May Fluke Solve added to new tank 20-May * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Winston displaying raised scales * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? None Meds on hand include - Fluke Solve, Oxymav B, Acriflavine, Metroplex, Kanaplex, Sulfaplex, Focus, Triple Sulfa, Furan-2 & Silver
  4. A new oranda, named Howie, is in my hospital tank and I need a little assistance helping him through a couple of disease/illnesses he has. I knew I shouldn't have bought him but no one can resist those chubby cheeks. As far as I know... he has dropsy, fin rot, fish lice, open sores, and flukes. Show all the signs: pine-coning, eroding fin edge, green disk all over his tail and moving to his body, and clamped fins. Surprisingly though he is semi-active and always eats all the food I provide. Treatment started 3 days ago with .3%, kanaplex, and an 80 degree temperature. I'm trying to knock out the dropsy and fin rot. He is still pine-coned but I remain hopeful. The kanaplex says to only do 3 doses maximum every 2 days for a total of 6 days of treatment. Is it okay to extend treatment past that if I do need to treat more? I figured I would treat him for flukes after he healed from the dropsy. I didn't want to do too much treatment as to cause more stress. Don't want to throw the kitchen sink at him. Or, is it okay to do that now? As for the fish lice. I know they are feeding on him like a tick would a dog. That in turn weakens him so I'm worried that it could prolong the dropsy or result in something else dramatic. What should I treat to get rid of those things? I've heard salt does nothing and that potassium permanganate dips do wonders. But I have no idea has to how to go about treatment. Or if it just adding more undue stress. Also, do I need to manually remove the lice?
  5. Well.. once again Im experiencing dropsy.. (So yes Taryl, Im a horrible fishkeeper, Lol..jk ) I have 2 mailed lionheads that arrived in March 30, in what it seemed to be good conditions They're still in a 20G QT One is (still) in perfect conditions but the other black/bronze one started to get red pimples and excessive slime on the wen a few days after arrival so I notified the seller and he recommended a few (10 second) peroxide dips. First dip.. good Second dip.. a little more time to recoup and some sideways Third deep.. more time to recoup and lethargic On April 12 I noticed some prickle to the scales but didn't think any of it since I was told that ranchus sometimes experience that without being sick I sent today some pictures to the seller and he corroborates that it is an early stage of dropsy but cannot recommend anything specific since it could be caused by different internal problems.. pristine water along with antibac water treatment and/or medicated food is his suggestion Im doing the questionnaire in a few minutes.. Thanks! Here's what I've done so far Mar 30: Arrival, covered tank Mar 30 -1: De-stress days (just WC & double prime) Apr 2: 75%WC + 76g salt (.1%) Apr 3: add 76g salt (.2%) Apr 4: 100%WC + 228g salt (.3%) Apr 6: 75%WC + 170g salt (.3%) Apr 8: 75%WC + 170g salt Apr 10: 75%WC + 170g salt + 10sec peroxide dip (8:1 ratio) Apr 12: 75%WC + 170g salt + 10sec peroxide dip Apr 14: 75%WC + 170g salt Apr 16: 10sec peroxide dip prior to WC 100%WC + 76g salt (to reduce at .1%) + .2g prazi powder Apr 8: 75%WC + 56g salt (.1%) + .2g prazi powder
  6. Quinn has dropsy I can't handle it 55gallon 3small to medium fish. Tank params are(last WC was 3/23): Ph 8 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5-7 I feed a mixture of omega one gf, NLS goldfish pellets, NLS Thera A, saki hikari (purple bag) all mixed together in jar and fed daily. Once or twice a week will get FBS or FBW. I do 80% wc weekly. Meds available: melafix, parasite guard, maracyn, furan-2, metronidazole, kanaplex, life guard, pure oxolinic acid powder, API triple sulfa, and metro meds opened 2013 I will weigh Quinn and take pics and post in a minute.
  7. Hi, I had posted a couple weeks ago about my friend's oranda that appeared to have dropsy (raised scales, round body-fluid retention body and eye area). To recap, she does not really do water changes but she has done 2 since I last posted, did kanaplex, still on metroplex, and Epsom. The oranda is still eating, definitely rounder-whole body, more raised scales, and does swim but not like a 'normal' goldfish. Is this dropsy or could it be something else? Any thoughts on how long a fish like this can/will live? The fish overall seems okay all considered, is this fair to the fish? I feel bad for the fish but I am at a loss of what to tell her and what else to do. Thanks for any input : )
  8. Hi, My friend's 2 year old female oranda sounds like she has dropsy, my friend said she is pineconing, very mild yesterday & more pronounced this afternoon. She started kanaplex & epsom salt last night, would metroplex be recommended with kanaplex or just kanaplex or just metroplex? I can post (or try to) post pictures tonight, I know she doesn't test her water, has 2 goldfish in a 20 gallon, and does minimal water changes. I have talked to her extensively about goldfish care/maintenance and her current set up is an improvement. Any advice is very much appreciated : )
  9. Hello. I think one of my fishies has dropsy and here you can see photos I took. I was advice to treat with magnesium sulfate that is found in Epsom salt aka English salt, metronidazole and kanamycin ingredients which are found in Seachem Metroplex and Seachem Kanaplex but I am outside of US and don't have luxury of wide selection of products. Local shops do not seem to have those but they may have Sera Baktopur Direct which company recommends to use with Sera Ectopur that should complement treatment. I have 35 litre container for quarantine and want to know what are the steps to proceed with treatment. When I use Epsom salt? Do I use it to prepare water and then dropsy medication? How often I change water and add Epsom salt again and is it safe to add both? Should proceed with procedure even if not absolutely positive about fish' dropsy condition because I don't know how treatment will impact fish provided condition is different. • 4.7 gals since middle 2011 when I got aquarium • JEBO water filter • 50% water changes - 3 times one week, 2 times another week and repeat • No water additives - only dechlorinator • Sticks in the morning • No new fish ever • No medications so far
  10. I'm a big stump on what is happening to my poor fishy. I have a black fancy goldfish who currently has dropsy. She still eats and I've been feeding her pees while her medicated food comes via mail. She's had dropsy for but now. But so far she's really fighting to stay alive so I'm detrmend to get her feeling better. I've been doing Epsom salt baths which looks like really helps her because she starts swimming around once she's back in the quarantine tank. Problem I'm having is I keep change her water because it gets dirty like the next day a rally of things are inside the tank attached to the walls of aquarium. It looks like she's able to digest the pees because green poop comes out but like I said I'm stumped with the additional items unidentifiable in the tank. At fist I thought the filter was the problem so I removed it. But still happened. Need help ; ~ ; I use aquarium water from main tank whic has below water levels. PH - 7.0 Ammonia - .25ppm Nitrite- 0ppm nitrate .50 ppm Tempature at 80F Using melafix pimafix Any suggestion is really appreciated.
  11. Hi, I had 2 large orandas in a 55g for about one year with weekly water changes. I slacked on my water changes for 2 1/2, maybe 3 weeks (mainly due to unforeseen work needs) and the one oranda developed dropsy and died within about 4 days. That was 2 days ago, I had put him in a qt tank in the evening, she/he was gone by morning. My question is-do I need to do anything for my remaining oranda? He/she seems okay-swimming, eating, no raised scales. My other question is-I would like to take down the 55g & put the oranda in with my large fantail which is in a 40g breeder. When would that be okay to do? I know better about the water changes and have learned a sad lesson the hard way. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.
  12. Hi guys, My redcap oranda appears to have dropsy Would anyone be able to give me some advice on whats the best thing to do please. Hes been separated from the tank so hes now on his own. Hopefully these photos help Thank you
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