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Goldfish Blog


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Found 23 results

  1. Hello everybody! Been researching for a while and came across this fine forum, and could tell this was the place to join and (hopefully) make a home. Tons of knowledge + experience, genuine discussions, and knowledgeable assistance. Quick backstory, won a female goldfish at the county fair 5 years ago, learned about Goldfish and got a 55 gallon tank, got her a companion male Common/Comet Goldfish from the pet store 6 months later. She has always been a bit stunted and had some health issues, he has never had any issues and has grown to nearly 1.5x her weight. Recent issues started with some cloudy eye, I was not keeping up with the water changes as well as I should have, been keeping everything much cleaner for about 6 weeks now but she's been getting worse over the last week or so. I purchased some Melafix a few weeks ago but have not used any, and have been attempting to just keep the water as clean as I can manage and hope she fights it off herself, but it's getting worse.. I'll post up the Help Request Check List now, and please feel free to ask any questions you can think of, and I'll blather on a bit more in the next post with too much information. 😁 Test Results for the Following: Tank water parameters Ammonia Level - 0 ppm Nitrite Level - 0 ppm Nitrate Level - 15 ppm Ph Level - 7.8 KH Level - 89.5 ppm GH Level - 143.2 ppm Tap water parameters Ammonia Level - 0 ppm Nitrite Level - 0 ppm Nitrate Level - 0 ppm Ph Level - 8.2 KH Level - 89.5 ppm GH Level - 125.3 ppm Other Required Info: Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Freshwater Master Test Kit + GK/KH (drops) Water temperature? 72.5 F Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55 gallon, running for 5 years. What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Fluval FX6 + spray bar. Mechanical foam, biorings only. Recently added 3 Seachem Purigen packs. How often do you change the water and how much? Water got bad (40-80 ppm) when doing 55% water change every 2-3 weeks. Been keeping Nitrates below 20 ppm with 2-3 55% water changes a week. How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Yesterday 55% How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 Common Goldfish. 4.5" and 6" approx What kind of water additives or conditioners? Seachem Prime 3.5 ml added to tank for 35 gallon change as water replaced from tap to tank. What do you feed your fish and how often? Repashy Super Gold Goldfish every morning (large cube for largen Goldfish, 2-3 small cubes from smaller Goldfish). Fluval Bug Bites or peas once in a while for evening snack. I have been evening feeding more while doing more water changes, hoping sick fish could recover with more food. Any new fish added to the tank? No Any medications added to the tank? API Melafix 4 weeks ago, 1 week of treatment as per instructions. List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Did a API General Cure, ParaGuard, and Melafix dose around 4 years ago for swim bladder and digestive lining excretion issues. No other meds for years until recent API Melafix treatment. Ran salt for a 3.5 years (1 tbsp per 5 gallons), stopped for 1.5 years, started again (1 tbsp per 5 gallons) when first health issues started (cloudy eye). Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Cloudy eye was noticed first 5 weeks ago, then eye got cloudier and puffy. She has been having vision trouble as well since that started, having trouble finding the food. Red irritation marks noticed 3 days ago on a small poke wound (already healed). More red irritation noticed on a few spots on right side yesterday Lethargic, and swimming pointing nose-down noticed this morning. Clamped dorsal/pelvic fins noticed as well. Cloudy spot on top edge of right gill and front base of dorsal fin noticed today. Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Listless, head pointing down. Eating well still. Here's a video of her swimming behavior with a view of some of the external issues. Attached pictures have much better clarity.
  2. Hey guys, first time on this forum. I’m usually a monster fish keeper so don’t really keep goldfish, however, recently got a tank for free and it came with 3 goldfish. Generally a goldfish noob, except I keep planted tanks and other large tanks so I’m sure I can provide them a good home. Long story short, after picking up the fish, found there were some white fleshy like bumps on 2/3 goldfish (one on body and other on gill plate. Any tips on what this is, whether it’s contagious, how to treat. Currently just doing daily water changes to keep tank pristine and will probably add a bit of salt to help it. Thanks in advance, hopefully I can become a more prevalent member on this forum and keep more goldfish because I absolutely love their goofy appearance :).
  3. This almost clear bubble started out very tiny and 3 days later this is where we're at....HELP..Other than this bubble my fish is totally fine at the moment.. what do I need to do??
  4. I seem to have gotten myself into a bit of a pickle by taking on some sick goldies. I have a black moor and a fantail in a 20g (I'm aware this is too small but they're only 2in at the moment and I'm looking for something bigger) with 2 sponge filters and an internal filter. Surprisingly, my water quality is pretty good, I do an 80-90% w/c every 5 days. When I first got them, they were suspected to have gill flukes and I treated them for it with praziquantel. However, they still gasp at the surface. Over the past few weeks, I've noticed that their poop has turned clear/white- I feed them soaked saki hikari purple bag as a staple and peas before I do a w/c. I'm pretty new to this hobby and have found out that white poop can sometimes be a sign of internal parasites. Would it be wise to medicate their food with praziquantel? If so, what dosage should I use? Other than the gasping at the surface and white poop they seem fine and still love their food. Any advice would be accepted as I don't want to end up losing the little guys. Thank you in advance.
  5. hey everyone, my fish has been acting strange as of late. for a while he was just acting quiet and stressed out so i just decided to leave him alone in fear of adding to the stress. he wasn’t eating for a couple of days so i reduced the amount i was feeding him. he started acting a bit more social so i started to feed him his usual amount. i noticed that he was struggling to swim and he wasn’t moving his tail fin often so i investigated. i found the strange white/pinkish lines across his tail. i couldn’t seem to find anything like this while searching online. i apologise if i gave an unnecessary amount of information, but i wanted to give the full story. it’s also worth mentioning that his tank mate died of strange, unknown causes before he became timid and stressed. when the other fish died his. usually black and gold body was white and pink. the now dead fish made a habit of eating pebbles and i’m not sure if that was related to his death.
  6. I have previously treated the pond with blagdon fungus and bacteria treatment but the sore still hasn’t healed. Can anyone tell me what this disease is and how to cure it? many thanks
  7. Hi, Everyone... Need your help... Please check the videos attached. My orange head (white body ) goldfish is not swimming well. I got it delivered 2 weeks back. but from day one it is showing these wrong swim signs. but I saw the video from the shopkeeper in which it is swimming well. My water is always clean and all other water measurements are in control. Can someone help me with some valuable suggestions to get back my goldfish health? Thanks & Regards, Venkata Nallala. IMG_4025[1].MOV video-1505232683.mp4
  8. I woke up this morning to two of my fish dead. i did not see any signs of illness on the other fish AND I had to go to work. When I came home all the rest of the fish were dead. They had developed a kind of white film on their bodies [see pictures]. The water parameters were all fine and I've never had this happen before. The ONLY new addition to this tank was an oranda from Petsmart that I added about 1 week ago and aquaponic stones from Petco for the Pothos i have growing on top. I did not see any ich marks or anything telling of disease leading up to this. The fish were eating and behaving normally.
  9. Gizmo is a 2 year old blackmoor and she has been suffering from a bad case of popeye for almost three weeks, as well as a swim bladder issue. Both appeared around the same time. She is in a 55 gallon tank with her brothers, pearl scale and an oranda. The water has always been pristine and I spend a lot of time taking care of them. Gizmo has been in isolation for two weeks, with a round of erythromycin for five days, it did nothing. I then used Tetracycline for the last six days, and I thought it was clearing up but I just found her laying on her side and breathing heavy at the bottom. I got her in the big tank thinking she needed oxygen and she is swimming okay but her eye is huge, and she keeps returning to floating on her back at the bottom. I am so desperate for some advice. Thank you .
  10. Hi, looking for some help for my yellow goldfish... A sore on its side appeared today, there appears to be a couple of scales missing, a pink mark of about 3mm in diameter, the surrounding scales are discoloured black, any ideas if it is an injury or something more sinister? It's in a 42 gallon tank with 3 other goldfish and 4 zebra danios, 25% water changes every 2 weeks using rainwater. https://www.dropbox.com/s/uj6gc3gjohasaun/Yellow.jpeg?dl=0
  11. My red cap oranda has black on it's wen. I've had him for over 2 weeks now and the black appeared 4 days ago. He is eating and acting fine. Is in a 65 gallon tank with 2 other fancy goldfish bought the same day, same petstore. The others show no signs. tank cycled and water perfect: ph: 7,6 ; nitrite: 0; nitrate: 0; ammonia: 0; temp : 21 degrees celcius 60% water changes every 5 days Photo of goldfish
  12. I was posting pictures of my new baby fry over on the new members forum, when someone informed me that my white and orange fry, Asimov, was "clamping his fins", and that could be a sign of health issues. So I've come here to ask if anyone can identify what may be wrong with him. Pictures below.
  13. Hey all, Today I came home and noticed my butterfly telescope swimming around weird and looking like she was getting pushed around by the current of my filter. I was standing far away and I'm not 100% sure but I think I saw her get sucked rip up against the filter and get stuck for a second. Basic Background: I got 3 fish and two of them (including the butterfly telescope) were quarantined together and another was quarantined by itself. For 2.5 weeks I had both tanks at .3% salinity. My tanks weren't cycled so I was doing daily water changes too. After this, I proceeded to do 2 weeks/cycles of Prazi treatment for both tanks. After 2 cycles I did a big water change and added all 3 fish together. I continued to do Prazi treatments for an additional 2 cycles. Seeing how the fish seemed perfectly fine and normal, I decided to finally add my tank decorations, sand substrate and rocks. I also cleaned out my filter (in old tank water) and readded my carbonated filter. I tested my water on Monday and noticed the tank seemed to have slightly uncycled. The Ammonia was at .25ppm and so was the Nitrite. I did a 70% water change that day. Today is the first time I noticed any unusual behavior, and I once again tested my tank and it was at .25ppm and so was the nitrite. The other two fish seem fine, but the butterfly telescope seems to be out of whack. Here's a video of her swimming sideways and upside down. Notice her top fin looks a little limp. https://vid.me/2QqB * Ammonia Level(Tank): .25ppm * Nitrite Level(Tank): .25ppm * Nitrate level(Tank): 0ppm * Ammonia Level(Tap): .25ppm * Nitrite Level(Tap): 0ppm * Nitrate level(Tap): 0ppm * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 7.8 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 7.8 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops: API Test Kit Liquid * Water temperature: 78F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running: 29g * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s): Aquaclear 70 (300gph) * How often do you change the water and how much: Twice a week (50-60%) * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change: Yesterday (70%) * How many fish in the tank and their size: 2.5" Ranchu, 2.5" Telescope Butterfly, 1.5" Ryukin * What kind of water additives or conditioners: Seachem Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often: Twice daily (Hikari Sinking Pellets) * Any new fish added to the tank: All three were purchased within the past 2 months (see description above) * Any medications added to the tank: None * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment: See description above * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus: Dorsal fin not erect * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.: Looking like it is exerting a lot of energy to swim, swimming sideways/upside down (see video) Thanks for any help. I appreciate it.
  14. I'm not really sure what's been up with my Ranchu as of late. I will start off by the initial problem I am concerned about. We've had the fish for about six months now. A few weeks ago, one of his eyes became cloudy (as seen in the pictures), but now the other one has developed this problem a few days ago and both the eyes are like this now. My other two fish (a fantail and a black moor) are perfectly fine, but he often eats quite a bit and ingests a lot of air. Now I have tried everything from the pea to the sinking pellets, and then he seems fine for a few days and then goes back to the floating again. We feed them a varied diet such as: brine shrimp, bloodworms, peas, and then pellets. I am wondering if these two problems are linked? I have done endless amounts of research but can't pinpoint the exact problem he has. He has an appetite and looks healthy aside from those two issues. There is zero ammonia in the tank and the pH levels are on point. Weekly water changes are done. Can anyone give me pointers on what this could be?Thank you so much! Also, to treat this should I separate him from the others? What treatments can I do for him?
  15. Hi, I needs me some help please, pretty please! Im not sure if I am dealing with neon tetra disease. I have filled out the form as much as I can tonight, I will get the tank parameter levels tomorrow when I do the water change. I cant upload a video, but here are some pictures. They are not good quality, but the best I could get, they move too fast! This is the only other new thing I have added in the last three days http://www.aquaticsupplies.com.au/exo-terra-moss-ball-clarity-and-odour-control.html Test Results for the Following: Sorry cant get these for you till tomorrow morning, but have added in what I can for the moment.* Ammonia Level (tank): * Nitrite Level (tank) * Nitrate level (Tank) * Ammonia Level (Tap): * Nitrite Level (Tap) * Nitrate level (Tap) * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Townwater: This usually sits between 8.0 and 8.4 gh170, kh125, use prime and don't have test kit for chloramines. Our rainwater: usually sits below ph6, gh10 and kh30 Tank information:* Brand of test kit (drops or strips): API freshwater master test kit * Filter name and size (GPH/LPH) Its an internal powerhead? 1500Lph with overhead sump * Additives and conditioners: prime * Water temperature (With or without heater- please specify): heater, 27 degrees celcius * Last water change date: 80% change 26 April * Tank size (Gallons or litres): 100L or around 25gal? * Fish in the tank (species and number): 16 neon tetras, 2 male guppies, 4 female guppies (gravid), 2 BN plecos 1inch each aprox *What is your water change schedule? Like how much and how often? 60-80% once a week minimum, keep the ammonia at less than 0.2ppm (tank is just getting over a cycling bump) * Any new fish added into the tank: they are all new fish. Ive had them just under two weeks. They came from two separate petshops. There were also 8 sailfin mollies and 3 bumble bee gobies in the tank, but they have been rehomed before last water change -If Yes: Were they quarantined? No QT. Was going to treat whole tank as QT -If Yes: Quarantine period and process (meds added): * List prior health issues in tank: Unknowingly overstocked, which has now been reduced. * Medications previously added to the tank: None * Medications on hand: Aquarium salt, Blue planet fluke and tapeworm tablets, wardleys promethyasul, kanaplex, blue planet trisulfide tablets. Affected fish information: * Diet- brand and amount/duration of feeding: Aqua one tropical flakes, about the size of my little finger nail crushed to small pieces and sprinkled on top of tank water twice a day, one Aquaone Vege wafer twice a day, Zuchinni twice a week for BN plecos * Any unusual behaviour such as nipping, bottom sitting, etc: Tetras nipping each other like they are fighting tail to nose spining, no bottom sitting, not exactly schooling properly, they seem to all still be eating. * Any unusual findings on fish and in tank: some tetras tummys are swollen and lumpy on both boys and girls, their red is fading, fins jagged and torn. One BN pleco I noticed tonight has an ich spot. Guppies are all fine. * Affected fish in quarantine or in main tank: in main tank, don't have a spare heater to separate from main tank. * Current medications being used on affected fish: Tank has been at 27 degrees celcius for 36 hours. Tomorrow will do water change, add rainwater instead of town water (lower ph) plan tomorrow to start adding salt and slowly bringing the salt up to 0.3% over 4-6 days, starting prazi tomorrow. * Previous medications used to treat affected fish: none * If any, list previous health issues and treatment protocols taken:) overstocking issue, resolved over a week ago before last water change. * You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video. Colour fade & fins ragged lumpy tummy lumpy tummy fins & colour fade
  16. 0 nitrates,nitrites,ammonia (house plants zero out the nitrates). Getting ready to do my weekly 75% water change. It's been 7 days since the last one. No meds have ever been administered by me except salt which was removed 3 weeks ago. I left the salt in for a week to deal with minor fin rot after shipping from ECR. Just noticed it last night at the corner of her mouth, I've read that fungal infections can cause this. I also know irreversible deformities can be caused also, so I wanna act quick. I dont have many meds available, but I could get Maracyn. I also wondered if I should go ahead and add salt to keep her immune system up to keep from spreading, but wasn't sure if Maracyn could be mixed with salt. Any advice would be welcome.
  17. I have a goldfish in a 30 gal tank. he has a red sore under his chin. what should I do to heal him. ths is an emergency please help!!! i would also like to add that I always add a little extra prime because i have ammonia in my water naturally. i usually add cap ful which is supposed to be equaled to 50gal so about almost the double dose since my tank is 30 gal. Tank info temp: I think 78 degree F not sure because the temp sticker is a bit too high so the water barely touches it 30 Gall tank No gravel in the tank ph:7.6 ammonia: .50ppm nitrate:5ppm nitrite: 0ppm last water change was right now which was almost 75% change I use Prime when doing water changes. I have salt I added 3 tblespoon in the morning because directions said 1 tblspn for every 5 gallons. so I added for half the amount of tank.but since I changed 75% water there isnt as much salt in anymore. I have two filters running one is for a 20 gal tank and the other im not sure because it was given to me.
  18. * Ammonia Level: 0-0.5 * Nitrite Level (Tank): 0 * Ph Level, Tank: 6.8-7.2 * Chlorine/ Chloramine: 0 * Brand of test-kit: Petsmart in store test, strips * Water temperature: Unknown * Tank size: 10 gal how long has it been running: 11 months What is the name and "size of the filter": Aqueon "quietflow 10", 10-20gal * How often do you change the water: 20% every week * Last water change: 2 days ago, changed 4 gallons * How many fish: 1 fancy goldfish, about 2.5 inches, including tail * Water additives: dechlorinator w/ every water change * Feeding: Flakes, 1x a day * New fish: No * Medications: No * 1 week ago, I added 3 tbsp epsom salt to tank, cycled water out by 20% daily after that. 2 days ago, put fish in salt dip, 1 gal/3 tbsp epsom salt. Neither helped. * Not that I can see, however, I am unexperienced and not sure what to look for, I've included a picture of the fish. * My fish (Samuel) stopped swimming about 1 month ago. He will move around occasionally, but mostly stay still on the bottom of the tank. I literally have not seen him eat or poop within the last month or so, yet he is still alive (somehow). He has never eaten boiled, shelled peas, even before this problem, and I've also tried feeding him spinach, he didn't show interest in either. He sat on the bottom for so long he got a sore on his belly, so I put him in a hanging basket within the tank. The sore appears to be gone now. He will occasionally swim up to the surface, poke his nose out, and sink back down. He ignores all food. Help!!! Not sure what to do! Picture here----> http://www.flickr.com/photos/104054915@N06/10058246633/
  19. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank):0 * Nitrite Level (tank)0 * Nitrate level (Tank)15ppm * Ammonia Level (Tap):.5 (im assuming tap is askng about the tap water right?) * Nitrite Level (Tap) 0 * Nitrate level (Tap) 20ppm * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8 to 8.2 (i keep it there for my snails) * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) high 6 to 7 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? api drops * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? 1500 gph pump and 42 gallon custom sump, after filter media 650gph flows back into the tank. nitrate reactor, UV sterilizer mechanical and biological in the sump and bags of crushed oyster shell and coral for my snails shells and to keep the ph stable. and a 370 gph canister. * What kind of water additives or conditioners? API stress coat, Pondcare salt, Rescue Pond Start chloramine chlorine nitrite and municipal ammonia remover. occasionally API leafzone. * Water temperature? 69-71F room temp no heater * How often do you change the water and how much? 50% every 10 days. or when daily tests warrent * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? yesterday 50% * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 40 gallon 16x16x36 tank (i keep 38 in it) and 42 gallon sump. total water volume is kept at 80 gallons exactly. the tank and filter media has been running about 4 years since the last time it was emptied and moved. the sump was added 3 weeks ago. now that the fish are getting bigger i thought more water volume would be better. * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2; 3 inch lionheads. 4; 3 inch orandas, 5 japanese trapdoor snails. lots of plants. * What do you feed your fish and how often? hikari sinking wheat germ once a day alternating with hikari sinking lionhead once a day, once a week hikari tubifex worms, every other week i feed smooshed de-shelled peas and skip a day of feeding after the peas. i just make sure i see each fish eat a couple pellets. i always read things that make me think i feed too much or too little so i dont know anymore about that. am i starving them to death? * Any new fish added to the tank? yes, one, i have a feeling it has caused the problem... 1 inch red cap oranda * Any medications added to the tank? melafix with the adition of the new fish * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) never had a problem in 10 years of goldfish and koi keeping * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? on the new fish red cap i now believe the funny coloring on his tail was lice, one of my other fish had a lice a week after he has a little spot of greenish coloring on his tail and a torn tail * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? another fish who has never had any problems at all suddenly died, and the new fish has times its swimming like normal and other times he looks paralized just drifting around bumping into things or laying on side on the bottom or top of the tank, hes in a bucket by himself now. * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.: i keep salt in the tank all the time 1 tbsp per 10 gallons. i treated with melafix for a week when i got the red cap due to that his tail was a little torn. * You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video. heres what happened... i saw this cute little guy at a big box store and i of all people should have known better! i could just shoot myself... i special order my goldfish from a breeder that guarentees health etc... but he was so cute... i will Never do it again and from now on i will ALWAYS quarantine .. anyways; he is all white with the red cap he is little like an inch, he had these tiny greenish markings on his tail that i didnt really think was anything.. but i had never seen what a disease looks like before, and his tail was a little torn, and i thought no big deal, a little melafix and it will heal up. he was in with flat bodied goldfish at the store so i figured he'd just been munched on. i treated with melafix for a week everything seemed fine for a week, then i did a 50% waterchange and added carbon to the filter to get rid of the meds,( i dont normally use carbon, its all lots of bio and a little mechanical and UV),,, the tail healed some of the way, the green coloring went away i thought maybe it had been an infection but now i think it was arugulus lice. because about a week later, this past saturday night, i saw a HUGE lice covered by a green blob on the tail of another larger fish, my panda. so i got online and did research and saw it was a lice and did the "paper towel method" to remove it, it didnt leave any marks behind as it was only there for an hour or two. then i got online and ordred some ProForm LA. i havent seen any more lice, and the fish arent rubbing on things or anything, and the fish it was on seems fine with no sores or anything . but i should still treat the tank right? the proform LA isnt here yet as i ordered it saturday night after hours but it should be here tomorrow or the next day. all the fish still seemed normal, then last night (monday night), my black oranda who was always healthy and has never had any problems suddenly within an hour is drifting slowly around the tank bumping into things like he is paralyzed gills and mouth are moving but fins and tail are not, but the fins didnt seem clamped or held close to the body, then he rights himself and swims and acts normally, then the drifting around again and then he just stopped breathing (gill function and mouth movements ended), this took place in about 2 hours from starting to drift to death. after the first time he was drifting and then righted himself i did a 50% water change because it was all i could think to do at the time, everyone else is acting normally. but after the water change he was fine for about another 30 minutes then did the drifting thing again and died. i did notice that like 3 days ago he did have some poop that had an air bubble in it and i had never seen that before, then today tuesday, the new (and sick?) redcap started hiding this morning, and now he is doing the paralyzed drifting and then swimming normally back and forth. i have scooped him out into a big bucket of tank water as with him being so small when he is doing the drifting thing he may get sucked into the pump and at this point i just want him away from my (seemingly) healthy fish. is this what lice does? or is this something else? all my other fish and snails are acting normal atleast for now. could my fish have lice inside their bodies that i cant see? any opinions would be great i have never had a goldfish die before or any disease. my current fish in this setup are about 5 years old all spawned at the same place the same season except the new red cap. ive kept aquariums for 17 years and goldfish and koi for 10 and have never seen a disease or parasite before, my fish except for the dead one and the sickly redcap who is now out of the tank seem fine but im afraid that theres something going on i cant see or test for, or if what happened to the black one will now happen to the others, and ideas for prevention? should i put the redcap back in the tank when i treat with the proform LA or treat him seporatly if he is still alive when it gets here? he is just laying in the bottom of the bucket on his side, mouth and gills moving, if i pick up the bucket or move the water he rights himself and swims around for a while and then he starts laying there and drifting around again. thank you
  20. Hi everyone, I recently purchased 4 discus from an 'LFS' (wouldn't call it that as it's quite an appalling place). I did the stupid thing of not quarantining them, and now I'm paying for it, literally. The 4 discus turned out to have some sort of disease, I'm unsure whether it's internal or not, but I'm presuming it's either gill flukes, or some other parasite. 2 out of the 4 purchased discus died within 2 days, and I lost one of my original ones last night, while in quarantine (I think it was too late for him). I've been treating 1 of the remaining 2 in quarantine, with Blue Planet's Fluke and Tapeworm Tablets, and seems to be helping. The symptomns the discus were showing before death included: - Rapid breathing - Clamping one pectoral fin while paddling with the other - Slightly clamped dorsal fins at some point - Slight redness around the gill area - Occasional flashing against plants - White faeces (haven't seen it in the new discus, but other discus and angelfish have done so). The quarantine tank is a 20L tank. I have a 25W heater in there, with the temp set to at least 31 degrees at all times. I'm trying to keep it at around 33 if I can. I added a few java ferns to float around in there, just to give the fish some comfort and security. An air-stone is running 24/7 to provide adequate aeration during treatment. Can anyone help confirm the disease? I'm waiting on some Metro to arrive, but I'm not sure if I should use it, as I've been advised not to by some people, but others encourage it. If any of you keep discus, you know how expensive they are, and I don't want to lose any more of these guys! Hope you guys can help me out. I've attached a few photos below. My first loss of the new 4. Poor thing died within 1 day, wasn't eating and displayed most of the symptoms mentioned above. Not sure if a pic of the gills would help? This was when it was still breathing. You can see some sort of white-ish substance in there? Second loss. Ate on the first day home, but refused food later on. Received a few hours of treatment with Prazi in quarantine, but died soon after. My current survivor. This blue diamond is doing quite well, although not out of the woods yet. He's eating fine, and has a great appetite, but shows a few symptoms such as clamping one pectoral fin to the body, occasional flashing against java fern, and rapid breathing. A strip test was performed the day the first one died. (I know these aren't very reliable, but it's better than nothing. I'm waiting on the API Master Test Kit). Thanks in advance!
  21. Columnaris Infection Other Names: • Myxobacterial Disease • Saddleback • Fin Rot • Cotton Wool Disease • Black Patch Necrosis Previously known as Myxobacterial Disease, Columnaris is a bacterial disease. Initially, it presents like cotton wool, commonly around the gills, mouth and skin of freshwater fish. Columnaris is primarily an epithelial disease. Meaning that its attack will most likely be formed on the exterior of a fish. It causes erosive lesions on the skin and gills that may become systemic (internal). The most common member of this group is known as Flavobacterium columnare and has affected freshwater fish on a worldwide scale. Columnaris is a highly transmittable disease/infection and can wipe out an entire community of freshwater fish within a few hours to a few days depending on the temperature. It is usually pathogenic at temperatures higher than -15 degrees C (59F). Mortality and acuteness of this disease increase as the temperature does. An example from the book of Noga explains: “experimental infections can kill oriental weatherfish within -7days at -15 degrees C (59F) and in only 1 day at 35 degrees C (95F)” This information indicates that, if we have noticed Columnaris disease in our tanks, the immediate action that is required is to try as safely as possible to drop the temperature as much as we can. Only this will buy us time to find the meds required to treat the disease from spreading and keeping the mortality rate down. Any tools used such as siphons, nets, ornaments, gravel etc etc will need to be sterilized. If any of this equipment has come into contact with other community tanks, then ALL the fish will need to be immediately treated. The causes: Studies have supported that Columnaris as a disease and its infection begins with poor quality of water. Uneaten foods, fish waste not removed, high nitrates and hard water as well as the biological filter media not being cleaned regularly enough. Other factors may include low oxygen levels in the water, physical injuries left unattended in a badly maintained aquarium etc... In a well established aquarium, after many years, should an outbreak of Columnaris occur, it is most likely due to bad maintenance of the aquarium and its filtration media, meaning, it will affect the entire community of fish. Tropical fish are not exempt from an outbreak of Columnaris disease. So, what to look for? if your fish has a few areas on its body that present as a whitish appearance, which resemble the look of cotton wool in the areas of Gills, Mouth or Skin (can even cause scales to pop out or fall off at different locations (not pineconed) ). White spots on the skin beginning to look ulcerated and fluffy that may be turning yellow (mucus like) with/or beginning to form a red ring around the outside of the ulcer (advanced stages), lethargy, possible sudden weightloss/anorexia, then it is most likely Columnaris Disease and you need to act very fast. The change of colour to the lesions indicates bacteria are growing rapidly. Begins white, changes colour to yellow and then to orange as the bacterium matures. How to treat: Treatment requires highly toxic and aggressive medications that we, under normal circumstances refrain from suggesting their use here on kokos because of their potential damage to gills and organs, under normal circumstances we practice safer treatment methods. however, due to the aggressive nature of this disease, and in the advice from the experts that contributed to the book of Noga, here is how and what they recommend as treatment for Columnaris Disease: For surface infections only: 1. Potassium Permanganate prolonged immersion 2. Copper sulphate prolonged immersion 3. Quaternary ammonium bath For Systemic infection: if ulcers are showing on 5% or over of body surface area indicating advanced cases, then an appropriate antibiotic needs to be used. Noga suggests “Oxytetracycline and/or nifurpirinol, but not many if not all are resistant to ormetoprim-sulfadimethoxine and other sulfas” Fish with many ulcers indicating an highly advanced bacterial infection due to Columnaris, will show signs of lethargy, loss of appetite leading to anorexia. It is possible to bathe this fish in a recommended dose Potassium Permanganate in order to stimulate enough appetite to commence oral medication. I recommend immediate posting in the 911 Emergency forum if at any time you suspect a disease like this is occuring to your community of fish. Immediately you have finished posting, please then use the "Report" button at the bottom of your post to alert us the moment you're done. We will do our best to guide you through what steps need to be taken. it is very important that you provide media such as non blurry pictures and a video to support your posting. This post has been promoted to an article
  22. is it a good idea to treat a tank for parasites/disease etc. after the cycle is over (and before adding fish)? like adding something to the water "just in case"/as prevention.
  23. Hi, I noticed these spots on my goldfish's tail today. Any idea as what these could be? Behavior is normal and water quality is good. It's a 30g tank with 2 goldfish in it. 25% water change is done once a week and water gets topped up throught the week. The tank is filtered by 2 AQ Clear 200 filters. I'll post more info when i get a chance tomorrow, wanted to get these pics up in case someone can offer some advice. thanks. Pics: https://skydrive.liv...13D55C43177!191 https://skydrive.liv...13D55C43177!190 https://skydrive.liv...13D55C43177!189
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