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  1. Ok. I thought I was getting a pretty good handle on all this, but I just keep learing more things I didn't know I needed to. Is there some sort of master guide for doing startup the right way - or rather, picking up from where we are and correcting? I'm only a week and a half in, but I think I'm missing steps and messing everything up! To begin with, I bought the fish first - so obviously not ideal. In our fish's first three days with us, we were completely clueless - 'he' was in a bowl with another fish (who sadly didn't make it), and he came down with a fungus on his body. So we've been treating for the fungus, and doing water changes since we're not cycled (he's in a 29 gallon now). I was starting to feel pretty good about our progress - the fungus spot is looking much better, and I was hopeful that we'd be through with that treatment this week and could focus on cycling. But I just read about the prevalence of flukes -- I have done nothing on this front, because I didn't know about it! And now I'm worried about what else I'm missing, that I don't realize I'm missing, and haven't researched how to fix. We were wanting to buy a second tank and starting cycling on that one, even starting to think maybe about live plants, so that it would all be prepared the correct way before introducing new goldfish, but I'm getting scared and don't know what I should do - I guess I'm afraid things will never be quite right now, or that we'll always have some sort of sickness... Help.
  2. So it's only just over a week since I lost my lovely Mario, but my big beautiful tank has been sitting empty and I have been miserable about the whole horrible situation all week... what I could have done differently, if only I had antibiotics available straight away, if I only I hadn't gone away that weekend, etc. etc. My boyfriend finally managed to coax me out of my misery hole to go and look at some goldfish shops at the weekend. So we went to our usual places, we even did the hour drive to the place where we got Mario from, but every fish I looked at I compared to him, and so obviously none of them were good enough. But then Baz saw a bronze oranda that he liked, so we went for it. There's no time like the present I suppose. I said to myself that the next fish we get will be a pair, I almost felt bad for Mario spending all that time as a solo fishy. So I picked out the cutest calico ranchu, about the same size as the oranda. So there we have it, an oranda and a ranchu, I'm not naming them yet or posting pictures until they get through their qt (sorry for being mysterious, I just don't want to get too attached just yet). They're in an 80l quarantine tub (I think that's about 20 US gallons?), with the same filter, heater and air curtain I used for Mario's qt (all cleaned and new sponges in filter of course). It was all set up and ready to go before I went fish 'browsing', who was I kidding thinking I was going to come home empty handed?! Here's my thing though - it's uncycled (hence new filter sponges) - I initially used some mature filter sponge from the big canister filter from the main tank, but no matter how much I 'gently rinsed it' in old tank water, it was still dirty looking and throwing bits of gunk into the lovely clean qt tank. So I emptied it all out and decided to go uncycled and be a slave to the bucket for the next few weeks. So my qt plan is to salt for the first week, then start de-worming treatment next week. I got them home yesterday (Sunday) afternoon, and let them into their lovely big clean qt tub after a couple of hours acclimatising. I fed them little and often yesterday, which they ate ravenously, and had a towel over the tub to let them destress. This morning I did as big a water change as possible, then salted to 0.1%. This evening I will raise it to 0.2%, then finally to 0.3% tomorrow morning. It's going to be a faff adding back salt with all the water changes, but needs must. I plan to start worming treatment next week - I've ordered two worming products, as I wasn't sure which would be best (both ordered online as anthelmintics aren't available over the counter here). So here is where I need the most advice, I initially ordered some Kusuri Wormer Plus, as that was what I saw was recommended on an article on here. Then I found an eBay shop that ships to the UK, so ordered some PraziPro as well. So now I've got the choice of using either a flubendazole or praziquantel based product, does anyone have any advice on which I should use? And whichever one I do use can I continue with the salt treatment or should I stop that? Or just lower it to 0.1%? Also, I would really like to add some carbon to the filter to help prevent ammonia creeping up between wc's (I'm doing almost 100% everyday), can I do that with salt? I'm assuming I'll have to remove it when I start anthelmintic treatment though. Both fish look active and healthy but I don't really trust the source they came from - the oranda was from a very overstocked display tank, and the guy didn't seem that knowledgable, I had to catch the oranda myself as he wasn't keen on catching it with his hands and I don't like them thrashing around in a net. Anyway, I must be a sucker for punishment, lets hope I don't have too many problems... Thoughts and advice very welcome as always
  3. Starting with two newbies separate from my ongoing qt with SwimFish, so this thread is for Fiona and Finley! Just got them last night, so no issues with them or the water yet, and I'd love to keep it that way! I have been shorting myself on sleep lately, so I'll have to post and run, but I will be back!! Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) Did not test * Ammonia Level(Tap) Did not test * Nitrite Level(Tap) Did not test * Nitrate level(Tap) Did not test * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Did not test * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Usually 8.4 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Master Freshwater * Water temperature? Water level is below the thermometer at the moment, wanted to save room for adding salted water if necessary... * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 29 gallons, disinfected and started fresh with them last night. * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Tetra Whisper 20-40 internal * How often do you change the water and how much? I'll do as I'm told * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? all fresh water last night * How many fish in the tank and their size? two, approx 2" and 2.5" not including tails (I'm never sure if I'm supposed to include tails or not?) * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? AM, Omega One small sinking pellets / PM, green bean, pea, or Omega One again. * Any new fish added to the tank? no * Any medications added to the tank? no * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. n/a * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? no * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? no. Fiona (red cap) was not thrilled when we first put them in and hung out at the bottom awhile, but soon came around last night, and both are swimming well.
  4. Noted my two new ryukins and calico butterfly were sitting in one corner of tank with redness after first round of prazi and 0.1% in 30g qt. The butterfly had a lot of white spots on her tail. Added a post in qt. Afterward, I look up ich. Stopped prazi and moved them to a sterile tube. Increased temp to 78% and gradually added salt to 0.3%. After two days, I noticed less white spots on the butterfly tail. The two ryukins are more active and dorsal fins no longer clamped. The red white ryukin was chasing and biting the calico tail. Separated it today with a floating plastic container. Her tail is frayed and very weak. I was able to give her rephasy this morning. 2/27 post in qt questioning reaction to prazi and 0.1% 2/28 moved fish from 30g to sterile tube 3/1 wc, increased temp 78, added 0.3% salt 3/2 wc, temp 78, added 0.15% then 0.15% salt Questions: How long should I treat with temp and salt treatment? How should I treat butterfly's tail? Thanks * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) 5 * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrate level(Tap) 0 * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.4 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.4 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops * Water temperature? 78 * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 30 g tank 6 days, 6 g sterile tube 3 days * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? none * How often do you change the water and how much? daily 100% now * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? yesterday * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3, 4" to 5" * What kind of water additives or conditioners? seachem prime * What do you feed your fish and how often? once a day wotj rephasy soilent green mixed with super green and saki hikari fancy purple * Any new fish added to the tank? two short tail ryukins added to quarantine with calico butterfly 2/13/14. two nerite snails added 2/11/14. * Any medications added to the tank? 0.3% salt * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. prazi + 0.1% for 1 round and one day of 2nd round, melafix for 8 days * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? grains of salt noticed first on calico butterfly 5 days ago, bloody streaks and frayed fins on all three noted while they were in 30 g tank after first round of prazi and 0.1% * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Corner sitting, clamped dorsal fin, rubbing abdomen and sides against bottom of tank, bloody streaks of caudal fins
  5. After 1st round of prazi and 0.1%, noticed redness on bottom and tails. White spots on one of my fish tail. 30g tank but only filled 2/3. Not cycled. They also group together in one corner.
  6. Test Results for the Following: · Ammonia Level(Tank) = 0.25ppm · Nitrite Level(Tank) = 0ppm · Nitrate level(Tank) = 0ppm · Ammonia Level(Tap) = 0.25ppm · Nitrite Level(Tap) = 0ppm · Nitrate level(Tap) = 0ppm · Ph Level, (Tank) = 7 · Ph Level, (Tap) = 7 Other Required Info: · Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Drops. · Water temperature? 23 degrees Celsius. · Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20G QT, about a week. · What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Eheim Internal 2012 (150GPH) · How often do you change the water and how much? Everyday, around 70%. · How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? An hour ago, 80%. · How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 (a ranchu about an inch and a half in body length). · What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime. · What do you feed your fish and how often? A range of small meals of various sinking hikari pellets, peas+ garlic, bloodworms and repashy soilent green, coming back to vacuum the uneaten food after around 20 mins. Have tried 2 – 3 times a day (except the first day). · Any new fish added to the tank? No. · Any medications added to the tank? None yet. · List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. None yet. · Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? None. · Any unusual behaviour like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Bottom sitting (now), not eating or pooping, surface gulping (not today but the last couple of days). Hi, sorry if I’m being paranoid but I think my new baby ranchu is sick. I’ve had him 5 days, and despite offering small meals of various foods he isn’t eating or showing any interest, and is bottom sitting, and when he’s not bottom sitting he’s gulping at the surface (filter outtake is angled towards it, with a weakish air stone so there is water movement that’s not too strong I believe). I haven’t started a medication regime as of yet because I ordered some prazi but it probably wont arrive until late this week and was just planning on using salt, but wanted to give him a few days of rest. But now that he’s very inactive and has no appetite, I was wondering whether I should go and get some prazi to treat him sooner, or if it is something else causing this behaviour. Thanks for the advice; I’m just worried for him as none of my other goldfish have ever acted like this.
  7. Hi all Just wanted to give an update on day two of Mochi's quarantine ! I was able to go out today and buy him a heater, so it is slowly bringing up the temperature of his rubbermaid to an acceptable level lol And with the slowly warming water, he seems to be much more active- which is awesome I also started him on his salt regiment.... we are currently at .01% kosher salt concentration Hoping to eventually bring that up to .03% after two more 12 hour intervals..... I also overnighted prazipro so he should be started on that tomorrow ! .....not sure if this is the right board to post this on, but it is titled 'quarantine'....so it seemed apropriate? eeeeeep I am a bit of a nervous fish mom- although i did finally see the little fishkin eat some hikari pellets so that's good ( i've been leaving them in the tank for only 10 min periods and today he finally ate them lol )......
  8. I recently learned about the quarantine process. I currently have one ranchu, purchased one month ago in a 30 gallon tank. My tank recently cycled. I am getting an additional ryukin. My quarantine setup is a sterilite 32 quart storage tub with an air stone. My ranchu was not quarantined or treated with aquarium salt, should I quarantine both goldfish together or only the new ryukin? Is aquarium salt effective or necessary? I plan to perform daily water change on the quarantine tank and quarantine for two weeks if separated. Any advice or suggestion is appreciated. Thanks
  9. Hi all! I have been trying to plan the move of our 2 GF from a tiny 5 gallon to a 29 gallon, and I need some advice on the best way to do this. #1. Because there is such a great need to move them…the current tank is so small, should I move them immediately (planning to use existing small HOB to help keep current cycle and a new HOB) and monitor water conditions as the new cycle develops. Or, should I wait and do a fishless cycle in the new tank??? #2. The tank now currently has gravel and I want to move to bare bottom. Do you think I would gain much in the way of BB’s to move the gravel over and then remove it slowly after then new cycle is established? #3. I read the post a few weeks ago about the necessity of quarantine. These 2 were purchased from the same tank in April 2013 and have not been quarantined by me. Other than pellet food making one floaty, they have fared very well considering. Should I quarantine in the 5 gallon or 29 gallon? The 5 gallon seemed so small to work with the dosages. But, then I think if I don’t quarantine first maybe the move will stress them out and they will get sick. Then, maybe I should move them….let them adjust…then quarantine?? I have been reading and trying to learn as much as possible. I know how awful it is to have them in a 5 g. I have the daily w/c routine down to 5 min flat! And, after incorporating froz blood worms, baby brine shrimp, spinach, and peas in addition to pellet food, I feel like they are much happier….less floaty…colors bright…growing well. I never had any idea the extent to which my children’s Easter gifts would rock my world.
  10. This article outlines the quarantine process for new fish. It is meant as a general guideline. Please remember that it is always better to ask for a second and even third opinion prior to beginning any medications. Each situation is different and this Q protocol is not intended as a 'one size fits all', but is a place to start. If you ever have questions regarding quarantine procedures or treatment during quarantine, please start a thread on the forum and one of our many experienced and helpful members will be happy to assist you! Why Should I Quarantine? It is important to quarantine every new fish before adding them to your main tank. A quarantine period serves not only to protect your established fish from any pathogens your new fish may carry, but also to protect your new fish from any pathogens your established tank may have. Fish with healthy immune systems may carry a variety of pathogens at subclinical levels. However, a new fish that is stressed from shipping or a change in environment may have a depressed immune system and be unable to effectively fight low levels of pathogens that could be present in your main tank. Similarly, your new fish may carry different pathogens that could harm your established fish if they were exposed. The quarantine period also gives your new fish time to de-stress and build its immunity back up prior to being introduced to the main tank. How Do I Set Up A Quarantine Tank? Here are the things you will need: 1. Quarantine tank The size of your quarantine tank will depend on how large your fish are and how many fish you are quarantining at once. For most situations a 10 to 20 gallon tank is sufficient. If you do not have an aquarium available, a large food safe, clear storage bin makes a great QT. The QT should be bare bottom (no substrate) and free from excess decoration. If you feel your fish may be more comfortable with some decoration in the tank, you can add 1-2 live or fake plants. A lack of substrate and other decoration helps to keep the tank environment as clean as possible while your fish is regaining its health. 2. Filter (if you choose to use one. Please see below for more information) It is a good idea to keep an extra filter on hand that is only used for Q. This filter should have an output of 10x the tank volume in gallons per hour (gph). For example, if you are using a 10 gallon QT, your filter should run 100 gph. 3. Heater A heater is not always necessary. However, it is a good idea to have an extra heater on hand in case you need it. There are certain situations, such as when treating ich, that a heater is helpful. Make sure your heater is rated appropriately for your QT size. 4. Water Test Kit Every fish owner (whether you are in the process of quarantining a new fish or not) should own a water test kit. During Q it is particularly important to make sure that water parameters remain pristine, as clean water is a major contributor to the health of your fish. A drop test kit is preferable over test strips. The API Freshwater Master Test kit is an excellent choice and comes with everything you need to check your water quality. 5. Medications What medications you will need will depend on your particular situation. However, medications that are good to keep on hand include: Salt - Please see here http://www.kokosgold...he-use-of-salt/ Praziquantel This comes in both a powdered from and a liquid form (prazipro). Prazi can be difficult to find in some countries. Australians should look for a product called Aqua Master Fluke and Tapeworm Tablets. Those in the UK should look for Kusuri Wormer Plus. Metromeds and MediGold If you live in the US these two medicated foods can be bought online at https://www.goldfishconnection.com/ These medicated foods are not available outside of the US. If you are only able to buy one of these medications, it is best to have metromeds on hand, as this medicated food is used in more situations than MediGold. Please remember that these medications are only to have on hand if they are needed. You should never treat a fish who does not truly need these medications, and you should always consult others for a second and even third opinion prior to treating with these medications. EDIT: MetroMeds and MediGold are no longer available . . Should my QT Filter be Cycled? If you are new to fish keeping and want more information on cycling please check out this link http://www.kokosgold....com/cycle.html A quarantine filter may be run cycled or uncycled. In many cases it is preferable to run a QT uncycled, as this diminishes chances of exposing your new fish to pathogens that could be hiding out in your cycled filter media. It also encourages more water changes, which is important during the Q period. If you choose to run your tank uncycled, you will need to do at least one large (50-100%) water change daily. How much and how frequently you need to change your water in an uncycled tank will depend on the tank size and how many fish are in it, a water test kit can be helpful in determining this. If you choose to cycle your QT filter, you can seed it with some cycled media from your established tank. Please ensure that you only seed a QT filter when you have a main tank that has been healthy and free from illness. Remember to remove carbon from the filter if you are treating with waterborne medications, such as prazi, during QT. Whether you choose to use a cycled filter or not, frequent water changes are important during Q. A cycled filter does not eliminate the need for frequent changes. How Long Should I Quarantine my Fish? The Q period should be a minimum of 4 weeks for new fish, and may be up to two months or more depending on the situation and whether or not the fish demonstrates symptoms of illness. Even if your fish appears healthy initially it is important to Q them for the recommended amount of time, as some pathogens take time to present themselves and the fish may not demonstrate obvious symptoms of illness until several weeks into the Q period. How do I Quarantine my Fish? Before you start any Q procedure please make sure you contact your vendor for information on their recommended Q procedures. This is particularly important for fish bought from online vendors that may come with a warranty. It is important to follow their recommendations for Q in order to avoid voiding the warranty. Quarantine procedure 1.) Keep tank lights off most of the time for the first 1-2 days You may even want to cover the tank with a towel or blanket and only turn on lights when necessary. The darkness will help your fish de-stress. 2.) Raise salt to 0.3% for at least 1 week Please see link on salt above when choosing a safe salt to use. Remember to completely dissolve salt before adding it to the tank. Raise salt by 0.1% every 12 hours until you reach .3% 0.1% = 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon if you are using a coarse grain salt and ¾ teaspoon per gallon if you are using a fine grained salt. For increased accuracy, use a digital scale to weigh out 1 g of salt per liter of water 3.) Begin daily water changesRemember to add back in the amount of salt you take out during water changes. For example, if you have a 10 gallon tank that has 30 teaspoons of salt in it, you will need to add back in 15 teaspoons if you do a 50% water change 4.) Observe your fish for any obvious signs of illness Symptoms to watch for include bottom sitting, flashing/darting, fin flicking, yawning, obvious external parasites such anchor worm, white spots on fins/body, white stringy poop, raised scales, refusal of food etc. If you have any concerns, please post in the Diagnosis and Discussion section of the forum for assistance http://www.kokosgold...sis-treatments/​ 5.) Treat fish with praziquantel as a precautionary measure Please see here for Prazi treatment schedules: http://www.kokosgold...g-praziquantel/ During the final 1-2 weeks of your Q period you can also begin adding in small amounts of water from the main tank to the QT. Steve Hopkins of Rain Garden Goldfish suggests that this can assist the new fish become acclimated to the microbes etc. that they will encounter when moved to the main tank http://www.raingarde...acclimation.htm. During this period, you can also give the main tank a single round of prazi treatment to reduce the chance of your old fish transmitting flukes to the new fish. At the end of the Q period, if your fish appears healthy, you may move them to the main tank, just make sure to match the temperature and pH of the main tank to the Q tank before introducing your new fish.
  11. My little guy has arrived and I'm ready to get to work but I have a problem- I don't know how to copy and paste the info page here. Here are a few pics, one of the thirty gal. he's in and a couple of blurry pics I got when I weighed him. I have an air stone in now and a new heater ready to go. I will get better pics after he settles in. He is 1 3/4" in body length and weighs 30 gr.(hopefully my scale is correct) He has some nice head growth started and was super alert and perky when I picked him out of the six they brought in but he's pretty quiet now and is staying in the corner behind the draped towel I put over one end of the tank. Hopefully he'll perky up after a bit. He has really chubby little cheeks and he's stolen my heart already!
  12. This article outlines the quarantine process for new fish. It is meant as a general guideline. Please remember that it is always better to ask for a second and even third opinion prior to beginning any medications. Each situation is different and this QT protocol is not intended as a 'one size fits all', but is a place to start. If you ever have questions regarding quarantine procedures or treatment during quarantine, please start a thread on the forum and one of our many experienced and helpful members will be happy to assist you! Why Should I Quarantine? It is important to quarantine every new fish before adding them to your main tank. A quarantine period serves not only to protect your established fish from any pathogens your new fish may carry, but also to protect your new fish from any pathogens your established tank may have. Fish with healthy immune systems may carry a variety of pathogens at subclinical levels. However, a new fish that is stressed from shipping or a change in environment may have a depressed immune system and be unable to effectively fight low levels of pathogens that could be present in your main tank. Similarly, your new fish may carry different pathogens that could harm your established fish if they were exposed. The quarantine period also gives your new fish time to de-stress and build its immunity back up prior to being introduced to the main tank. How Do I Set Up A Quarantine Tank? Here are the things you will need: 1. Quarantine tank The size of your quarantine tank will depend on how large your fish are and how many fish you are quarantining at once. For most situations a 10 to 20 gallon tank is sufficient. If you do not have an aquarium available, a large food safe, clear storage bin makes a great QT container. The QT tank should be bare bottom (no substrate) and free from excess decoration. If you feel your fish may be more comfortable with some decoration in the tank, you can add 1-2 live or fake plants. A lack of substrate and other decoration helps to keep the tank environment as clean as possible while your fish is regaining its health. 2. Filter It is a good idea to keep an extra filter on hand that is only used for QT. This filter should have an output of 10x the tank volume in gallons per hour (gph). For example, if you are using a 10 gallon QT, your filter should run 100 gph. 3. Heater A heater is not always necessary. However, it is a good idea to have an extra heater on hand in case you need it. There are certain situations, such as when treating ich, that a heater is helpful. Make sure your heater is rated appropriately for your QT tank size. 4. Water Test Kit Every fish owner (whether you are in the process of quarantining a new fish or not) should own a water test kit. During QT it is particularly important to make sure that water parameters remain pristine, as clean water is a major contributor to the health of your fish. A drop test kit is preferable over test strips. The API Freshwater Master Test kit is an excellent choice and comes with everything you need to check your water quality. 5. Medications What medications you will need will depend on your particular situation. However, medications that are good to keep on hand include: Salt - Please see here http://www.kokosgold...he-use-of-salt/ Praziquantel – This comes in both a powdered from and a liquid form (prazipro). Prazi can be difficult to find in some countries. Australians should look for a product called Aqua Master Fluke and Tapeworm Tablets. Those in the UK should look for Kusuri Wormer Plus. Metromeds and MediGold – If you live in the US these two medicated foods can be bought online at https://www.goldfishconnection.com/ These medicated foods are not available outside of the US. If you are only able to buy one of these medications, it is best to have metromeds on hand, as this medicated food is used in more situations than MediGold. Please remember that these medications are only to have on hand if they are needed. You should never treat a fish who does not truly need these medications, and you should always consult others for a second and even third opinion prior to treating with these medications. Should my QT Filter be Cycled? If you are new to fish keeping and want more information on cycling please check out this link http://www.kokosgold....com/cycle.html A quarantine filter may be run cycled or uncycled. In many cases it is preferable to run a QT uncycled, as this diminishes chances of exposing your new fish to pathogens that could be hiding out in your cycled filter media. It also encourages more water changes, which is important during the QT period. If you choose to run your tank uncycled, you will need to do at least one large (50-100%) water change daily. How much and how frequently you need to change your water in an uncycled tank will depend on the tank size and how many fish are in it, a water test kit can be helpful in determining this. If you choose to cycle your QT filter, you can ‘seed’ it with some cycled media from your established tank. Please ensure that you only seed a QT filter when you have a main tank that has been healthy and free from illness. Whether you choose to use a cycled filter or not, frequent water changes are important during QT. A cycled filter does not eliminate the need for frequent changes. How Long Should I Quarantine my Fish? The QT period should be a minimum of 4 weeks for new fish, and may be up to two months or more depending on the situation and whether or not the fish demonstrates symptoms of illness. Even if your fish appears healthy initially it is important to QT them for the recommended amount of time, as some pathogens take time to present themselves and the fish may not demonstrate obvious symptoms of illness until several weeks into the QT period. How do I Quarantine my Fish? Before you start any QT procedure please make sure you contact your vendor for information on their recommended QT procedures. This is particularly important for fish bought from online vendors that may come with a warranty. It is important to follow their recommendations for QT in order to avoid voiding the warranty. For Fish Purchased From A Reputable Source: This is for fish that come from a source that you consider safe and reputable. The vendor may have a long history of good feedback and/or the other fish at the store you purchased your fish at appeared to all be in good health. 1.) Keep tank lights off most of the time for the first 1-2 days You may even want to cover the tank with a towel or blanket and only turn on lights when necessary. The darkness will help your fish de-stress. 2.) Raise salt to .3% for at least 1 week Please see link on salt above when choosing a safe salt to use. Remember to completely dissolve salt before adding it to the tank. Raise salt by .1% every 12 hours until you reach .3% .1% = 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon if you are using a coarse grain salt and ¾ teaspoon per gallon if you are using a fine grained salt. For increased accuracy, use a digital scale to weigh out 1 gram of salt per liter of water 3.) Begin daily water changesRemember to add back in the amount of salt you take out during water changes. For example, if you have a 10 gallon tank that has 30 teaspoons of salt in it, you will need to add back in 15 teaspoons if you do a 50% water change 4.) Observe your fish for any obvious signs of illness Symptoms to watch for include bottom sitting, flashing/darting, fin flicking, yawning, obvious external parasites such anchor worm, white spots on fins/body, white stringy poop, raised scales, refusal of food etc. If you have any concerns, please post in the Diagnosis and Discussion section of the forum for assistance http://www.kokosgold...sis-treatments/ For Fish Purchased from a Questionable Source: This procedure is for fish coming from a source that may have received poor reviews in the past and/or a store where many of the other fish appeared to be in poor health. 1.) Follow steps 1-4 outlined above 2.) Treat fish with praziquantel as a precautionary measure Please see here for Prazi treatment schedules: http://www.kokosgold...g-praziquantel/ During the final 1-2 weeks of your QT period you can also begin adding in small amounts of water from the main tank to the QT tank. Steve Hopkins of Rain Garden Goldfish suggests that this can assist the new fish become acclimated to the microbes etc. that they will encounter when moved to the main tank http://www.raingarden.us/goldfish-acclimation.htm At the end of the QT period, if your fish appears healthy, you may move them to the main tank, just make sure to match the temperature and pH of the main tank to the QT tank before introducing your new fish. This post has been promoted to an article
  13. Hi, Does anyone know if I can quarantine 2 new orandas together? I bought one from a lfs on 3/16 & he is in a 20 gallon by him/herself. He is about 6 months old. I bought another oranda from an online site & he/she was delivered on 3/22. He/she is in a 10 gallon. The 10 gallon was fully cycled. The 20 gallon took 10 days to cycle. I do not know how to copy & paste but both water parameters are good: ammonia 0, nitrate 5-10, nitrite 0, ph 7.8-8.0, gh 7, kh 5. Both fish were treated with salt gradually (0.3 for 7 days), through water changes there is not more salt. I was really lucky-both fish have started off healthy & have remained healthy : ) no ich, all scales are present & normal, appetite good, poop good, always swimming normally. I will be treating for flukes (6 round protocol) with prazi pro at a 0.1% salt. My question is: would it be safe/ok to have both fish in the 20 gallon & treat with prazi pro? It would admittedly be easier for me to take care of 1 tank but am completely willing to do what is best for them. I also think they may like having each other as company if it is okay. Once the QT is complete they will be moved into my 55 gallon. Thank you for any advice : )
  14. I have a 10 gallon with one fantail goldfish, Blub, young, about 1.5 inches. Healthy, eats all the time. Water parameters good and stable. 55 gallon just finished cycling. (fishless cycle with pure ammonia to 1-2 PPM) If I put Blub into the 55 gallon alone, can he produce enough ammonia to keep the cycle going equal to roughly 1-2 PPM, as it has been during the fishless cycling? If he cannot, will the "excess" bacteria die off but adjust to his bioload? Second question: If I add ammonia to the 10 gallon after Blub is out, to maintain the cycle, will the absence of host (Blub) cause the entire die-off of at least some protozoa that may be present? Can't I leave the 10 gallon fishless for a month, with a heater and then water change and then use it as a quarantine for a new fish? Thanks!
  15. Hi guys I'm not sure if this is posted in the right place? I've just impulsively purchased a blue Oranda and put him in a quarantine tank with an air stone and some water from my main tank. I have two filters in my main tank, a Fluval U2 and an Aqua One 103f, I was thinking of putting the U2 in the quarantine tank and leaving the Aqua one in the main tank as it has a hight LPH, however my Fluval has been in there the longest and has ceramic media which I presume is where most of my beneficial bacteria are harboured? I was going to stuff most of this media into the aqua one and leave a bit in the Fluval for the QT. I'm going to start with Prazi in the QT tomorrow, is it correct to stick one of my filters in? Or should I just be doing regular water changes, or - of course - both? Would appreciate any advice. Here is the - as yet named - fish
  16. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level (tank): 0 QT * Nitrite Level (tank) 0 QT * Nitrate level (Tank) 0 QT * Ammonia Level (Tap): 0 * Nitrite Level (Tap) 0 * Nitrate level (Tap)0 * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.8 * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? api * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? quietflow 30 * What kind of water additives or conditioners? prime, neutral regulator * Water temperature? 78 * How often do you change the water and how much? new water, qt procedure * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? today * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20 gals, new qt * How many fish in the tank and their size? 0 * What do you feed your fish and how often? twice a day * Any new fish added to the tank? this one * Any medications added to the tank? prazipro and salt * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) new fish * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? bloody streaks, ich like markings. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? not eating, people shy * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. PraziPro and salt 1% Hi everyone, I've been away for what seems way to long Been busy at home, work and with new projects (aka discus fish lol).... Anyways I'm writing today on D&D because my husband tried to cheer me up the other and got me a surprise fish... I almost had a heart attack when I came in after work yesterday and saw a beautiful huge oranda in my main tank... NO QT whatsoever, he just wanted to surprise me (he never listens to me when I'm going on about my fish nor the importance of QT). She'd been in my tank for 8 hours with the others and upon close examination she had some small white spots which he swears were not on her when he bought her, so assuming he's correct they appeared after being introduced in my healthy main tank. Spots on her wen may be wen growth? And the ones on her tail might be that her tail got sucked on the filter (Goldy used to get them all the time) - but I'm very nervous and anxious... She also has bloody streaks on her fins (maybe high ammonia from shipping? petshop told my hubby she'd just gotten in form US night before) and is a bit shy. I immediately set up my hospital tank and added salt to 1% and PraziPro because she looked to be yawning a lot... I tried feeding her last night and she wouldn't eat, tried all day today and nothing... Tried NLS pellets, Repashi soilent green, progold, krill, bloodworms, flakes EVERYTHING I had and to no avail, she just doesn't feel like eating apparently. I noticed she has a big wen and has a growth on her nostrils that resembles that of the pom-pons to some extent, it tends to get into her mouth and she constantly chews on it. Should I/ Can I trim it? I was thinking of adding salt to 3% and continue monitoring her and see if more ich like lesions develop. Also I'm scared that something might be in my main tank now... I did 2 back to back 80% wc after taking the big girl out but I'm freaked my babies might've caught something. Should I do anything to my main tank? Any suggestions? I really appreciate all of your help, I'm kind of desperate here... Here are some pics and a video of my huge sick baby...
  17. Hey Goldfishers! For ease of maintenace, I recently changed up my discus tank to goldfish and wanted to share a quick iphone video of the new group. I will try to get an HD version once I figure out how to. They are currently undergoing quarantine all at once since they came from different local fish stores. The featured tank is a 95g corner filtered by a Fluval FX5 and Lifeguard UV sterilizer. I will be splitting up the group into another 135g w/ built in sump once things settle in. Fancy goldfish stock: White Oranda (4"), Chocolate Oranda (4"), Black Oranda (3.5") Red & white Ryukin (3.5"), White & red grade A Ranchu (3"), Three white & red telescopes (2.5"), one shubunkin (2.5"), shiro utsuri koi (2"), sanke koi (2"), two showa koi (2"), Chocolate pearlscale (1"), white ranchu (1"), two black moors (1"), eight black ranchus (1"), Misc: twenty plus powder blue endlers, twenty female guppies
  18. I'm re-asking this question in this thread because I hid my question in someone else's thread and didn't get any answers. Plus my stand is coming coming Dec 4th so it is rather time sensitive. Dec 4th is when I will try and start my cycle. I need an answer before then on whether I should treat my current goldfish with prazi or not. Here is my awkward situation. I have two situations and two questions. Situation #1 The forty gallon that I'm going to cycled and get ready for my two rain garden babies( the fishes arrive in the mail Jan 14) is in my bedroom. I'm always in and out of my room with lights and everything. I have a ten gallon hospital tank with filtration that have yet to set up. The hospital tank , once set up, will be in my spare bedroom. I almost never enter my spare bedroom. My question once I get my fishes in the mail, should I just put them temporarily in my ten gallon for two days? The fishes will have time to rest. Situation #2 Right now I currently have one fish in a twenty gallon. I plan to start doing a fishless cycle now on my forty gallon tank and seed the bio media of 20 gallon at the same time.. By Jan 14 I hopefully should have one 40 gallon and a 20 gallon that is cycled.When my two rain garden goldfishes arrive on Jan 14th should I just put my two new goldfishes right into my 40 gallon or should I quarentine them first? If I do quarentine how should I quarentine? I've had my current goldfish for two months now. She shows no signs of illness. I never treated my current fish with prazi. Should I go ahead and treat my current goldfish now with Prazi in her 20 gallon before I begin my cycle?? I plan to seed the twenty gallon filter media while I'm cycling the 40 gallon so there could be cross contamination.
  19. just wondering if any fellow aussies have bought soilent green off ebay or by other online means? i was about to buy some on ebay from the u.s & a quarantine warning came up. considering the contents of the product i was curious if anyone has successfully imported it or has it been confiscated? cheers
  20. here is a short vid of my new babies.... dr.frekyll the calico ryukin, who is about 1 1/2 inches & my tiny black moor, as yet unnamed, who is about an inch long & can be quite difficult to find in the tank. sooo cute!!! currently in quarantine http://s1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee517/strangedays101/?action=view&current=03102012027.mp4
  21. Sorry if this isn't in the right place, I couldn't see a better one because D&D doesn't seem right. So, unexpected things have come up, and I am not very prepared for it. Luckily I have 2 days to figure this out. I have 3 fish, 2 quarantines, and 2 filters, along with very little money (internet bill was higher than expected). All 3 fish need to be quarantined. 2 need to be quarantined for at least 2 more weeks, one needs it for at least 4-5 weeks. One may need antibiotics (Caligo), one has a healing eye and needs pristine water (Tui), one needs salt and prazi (Chu). Here is what I have to work with: 1 55 divider, 55 gallon tank, 20L gallong tank, 10 gallon tank, 2 10-20 gallon filters, one dirty 10 gallon filter, one 2.5 gallon tank, 1 tetra bubbler and airstone. Here are my proposed situations: (What I believe is best first, correct me if I am wrong) Tui goes into the 55 with the divider and it receives 80% water changes daily or every other day. Caligo goes in the 10, Chu goes in the 20L Chu and Caligo go in the 20L without the divider, Caligo receives extended salt and prazi (she has had 4-5 doses), and Chu may receive antibiotic treatment (if Caligo needs it) Tui goes in the 20L with divider and Chu and receives the salt and prazi treatment, with water changes every 5 days as per dosing instructions. Caligo goes in the 10. And as a VERY last resort, I can stop at goodwill or target and see if they have a cheap tank or food storage tub, then I can bleach the dirty filter (if it works) and take out the sponge and let it just circulate water and put Caligo in there for antibiotic treatment (if she indeed needs it). **Note, I may not be able to find either at an affordable price. I know this is probably ideal, but also consider the above options. ** Thank you for helping me figure this out (:
  22. Hi everyone! I've been so busy lately (house renovations, mainly roofing problems) I've hardly been online lately... But I just wanted to share the little girl I got at my LFS today!!! She's a Calico Ranchu - my biggest goldie, measuring about 3.5" long. Her name's Nemo because one of her pectoral fins is small, birth defect I guess... Still she's so cute! Look at those chubby cheeks! This was on our way home... This is his little pec fin... And his normal pec fin What do you think of the new baby? Thanks for looking!
  23. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level .0ppm * Nitrite Level .0ppm * Nitrate level .0ppm * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.8 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines 7.6 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API ammonia drops, mardel or tetra (forgot) test strips * Water temperature? 78 degrees F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 5 gallon, 1 week quarantine * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s) 3 gallon filter, don't know which brand * How often do you change the water and how much? Every day, 80% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Yesterday, 80% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 ~2 inch oranda * What kind of water additives or conditioners? seachem prime X2 * What do you feed your fish and how often? once a day, 2-3 flakes * Any new fish added to the tank? no * Any medications added to the tank? no * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) none * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Salt at .1% * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Missing scales, had a fluffy white string coming from his mouth when I first got him but this has since disappeared completely * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Bottom sitting more often. Hi guys, the inevitable happened and here I am on D&D about my new oranda whom was rescued from a tank of dying fish. From what I remember, none of the other fish had the same symptoms as Lord Jabu Jabu, but after posting a little while ago he was quarantined to prevent an epidemic. Those fish were all bottom sitting and had fin rot, along with cloudy eyes on the moors, possibly the beginning of ich or a fungus, or a pH crash. I do not have the resources to get a bigger tank for quarantine but he hasn't shown any symptoms that he is stressed (no gulping, frantic swimming, etc) He has been doing well but now he is bottom sitting. His poop is also white and stringy, which I think could also be a sign of stress but again, I have to work with what I have until next month -.- I can get prazi relatively cheap, only 6 dollars at my lfs. What can I do for this guy to make sure I don't lose him? He doesn't bottom sit all of the time, just I have noticed it happening more often, and it isn't normal for him.
  24. Hello! I will be setting up a 10 gallon tank for either Quarantine or a breeding tank. Maybe one first and afterwards the other. What I would like to know is a good way to get the tank cycled and going? What kind of filter would be best? My taps ammonia is at 1.0ppm and it's pH is 8.5. I don't expect to have a huge influx of new fish, so after I get them would it be ok to use it for a breeding tank? I plan on getting 1 or 2 more goldies (oranda or ranchu) and about 6 mollies a couple of cherry barbs, and cory cats, in a 20 gallon (Not a definite lineup, I have more research to do). But I do hope to breed if things work out. Would it be better to use the 10 for the mollies and the 20 for the quarantine/breeding? Thank you!
  25. Hi everyone, Oops I did it again! A black ranchu is one of my dream fish, along with a sakura ranchu (which I'm really hoping to get from David, aka ichthius, once they're ready ) So I was browsing through e-bay and saw the ad, when I read his reviews and sent him a few messages and found out he shipped to Puerto Rico - I jumped on it! So even though I already have my QT occupied with a cute lionhead I decided to go ahead and get him. I went to Wal-Mart and bought one of those Sterilite 48L containers and set up a temporary QT while my lionhead finishes his QT which should be in around 10 days. Today I received my package (express mail next day delivery) and opened it to find a tiny black ranchu of 1.5-1.75" in length including the tail. He looks healthy so far, no signs of ich or any other common illness, he's very lively and, if I may add: cute. Here's a pic of his setup, next to my QT in my office: Here's a close-up pic of the little guy in a smaller container I have for snails as QT. The white spots are small bubbles - he's spotless and so far jet black (although I have a feeling he'll change to a lighter shade because of our constant high temp 80F -85F) Top view on his Sterilite QT: He's at 0.1% salt while he recovers as recommended by dnalex and then I'll start his prazi rounds. I think I'm in love... AGAIN lol Any name ideas???
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