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  1. Hi all dory was in the big tank for 1 month and 3 days. She did not act sick or look sick. Last Tuesday, I noticed her tumor tuning green. I am not sure why. She did not look sick on Friday, I saw a red dot on her that I did not like. I took her out put her in the hospital tank. Gave her meds for 4 days. She looks so much better. She all heal,but her tumor is still green. Why is it green. I took lots of pic of her.
  2. May I introduce my 3 : more recent: Hope you like it
  3. So I have finished a week of salt with my two new fish after just over a week or so without salt so they have been in quarantine for nearly three weeks. I upped the salt every 12 hours from 0.1 - 0.2 and then finally 0.3 but now the fish have been salted for one week how do I remove the salt do I just fill the tank with no slat and just fresh water or do I take 0.1 away every 12 hours by using less salt?? any advice will be grateful thanks
  4. Hi guys! This is my first post though I've been lurking for a little while now. Finally ready to join the posting! Here's my situation, I recently upgraded to a larger tank and am rethinking my family of fish. I had a 10 gal, my first tank, and just recently got a 29 gal bowfront. I've been using a Penguin 150 for filter so far on both tanks. Will probably be upgrading to a Penguin 350 in the near future. Fish: 2 fantail/fancy goldfish, though one looks part ryukin; 1 about 4 inches, 1 about 3 inches (including tail) 1 dojo loach, about 6-7 inches 1 common pleco, about 3.5 inches Now, I know, I know... I shouldn't have that common pleco in there. So far I haven't run into any issues, but I know i'll inevitably have to move him elsewhere. I do have a good sized piece of drift wood for him though! I also know that dojo loaches should be in sets of 3. The loach right now is a loner and likes to stay buried under the gravel and pretty much only comes out when there's food. He actually was a lot more active and came out more often when he was in the 10 gal tank. I'm debating whether or not to get another 2, mainly because I don't want another 2 loaches that just bury themselves and uproot all my plastic plants. Will the loaches behavior change if there are 3 of them? I like goldfish and would eventually like to add more, but I also want some more variety in the tank. I'm considering the White Cloud Mountain Minnows since I've seen them recommended on several sites. Will my bioload be OK? Can I add both 1 additional goldfish and a few WCMM in as well, if I change my filter to the Penguin 350? Or should I just go with one and not the other? I would like to upload a picture of my tank, but I'm not sure how to. The image button only lets you put a URL in there, but my picture isn't uploaded online. I have a file saved onto my computer. How can I post a picture? Thanks a lot for all your input and advice!
  5. We are moving this weekend and I'm quite worried about moving with my fish. Luckily we are literally just moving down the street, but it's complicated because the weekend we are moving me and my friends are going to a music festival. I have a big tub I got to put my fish in, but they would have to sit in there for 2 days while the tank gets moved and set up and I'm scared about having high ammonia since they are both large. I honestly just don't trust my family with taking care of my fish and need some advice on what to do. I will be able to put my aquaclear 110 on the bin but not my canister filter. How can I keep the media in the canister alive? Should I fast my fish a few days before the weekend to make sure ammonia stays down? My tank is 75 gallons and non planted with 2 goldfish. I also have a 10 gallon divided non planted betta tank, how should I prepare them?
  6. The Walstad Method is a low maintenance way of keeping fish, snails and plants in a balanced low tech system. The fish provide fertilizer and CO2 for the plants. The plants filter out nitrogen and other toxins and provide oxygen for the fish. It uses very little mechanical filtration and minimal water changes. The downside to this system is the need to keep a relatively small number of fish that won't eat the plants or root around in the substrate (aka goldfish). Here is how I modified the Walstad Method in my 125 gallon tank for the needs of my three red and white comets. Main Difference #1: Heavy Filtration. While the Walstad Method uses minimal mechanical filtration, I'm using three HOB filters rated for 180 gallons for my 125 gallon tank for several reasons. 1) To provide amble and continuous oxygen for my active goldfish. One feature of the Walstad Method is that oxygen levels lower at night when the plants can't photosynthesize, while CO2 levels rise. This can potentially stress your fish. 2) To provide a water flow that pushes the floating plants toward the front of the tank in order to let light through to the heavily planted back third of my tank. 3) To maintain a backup source of biological filtration just in case the plants can't handle any excess fish waste or decomposing organics. 4) I like having those six little waterfalls flowing into my tank. It also helps to keep the water moving evenly through the tank to keep everything well mixed. Main Difference #2: Moderate Water Changes. While the Walstad Method uses minimal water changes, I'm doing 20% changes every week or two, although this could probably be reduced to every three or four weeks. But I'm only vacuuming the gravel across the front third of my tank, and letting the fish pooh filter down into the dirt wherever there are or will be roots. I also use this opportunity to do a culling of excess plants and clean out any wilting leaves. So here are what I would consider to be the essential points in a Walstad Method modified for Goldfish. 1) About one inch of Organic potting soil covered by about one inch of gravel. The dirt will provide nutrients for the plants and the gravel will help keep the goldfish from uprooting them. I used a larger sized gravel than Walstad recommends which seems to work great. 2) Floating plants! The amount of submerged plant growth you get will be limited by how much carbon is in the water. Floating plants or plants that grow out of the water can get their CO2 from the air and can easily outcompete algae. I've found that water lettuce, frogbit and water sprite have worked the best with my goldfish. 3) Plant a large variety and amount of plants from the start that goldfish are less likely to eat or uproot. Let these establish for a minimum of four to six weeks before getting even the smallest goldfish. If you're going to add larger goldfish, let the plants establish and grow even more. Remember you'll need an inch of roots just to get down into the actual dirt. I've had the most success with Amazon Swords, Jungle Val, Spiral Val, Wisteria, Anubias, Java Fern, Crypts (Wentii and Balansae), Onion Plant and Umbrella Plant. You want to start with large plants with the largest roots possible. 4) Nerite snails. They do a great job of dealing with any algae you might get and breaking down wilting leaves or missed fish food into dissolved organics that the plants can directly use, or that can more easily filter down into the dirt. 5) 10 to 14 hours a day of light. As long as you have floating plants you can leave the lights on for 14 hours to trigger maximum plant growth. The super bonus is you get to enjoy your fish all day long. 6) Moderate water changes of maybe 20% no more than once a week works well and you can probably do much less. Plants secrete a variety of chemicals that inhibit algae growth that you don't want to completely remove. You also want to keep the dissolved organics in your water because some of your plants can get nutrients and even carbon from it. Large water changes will remove these key advantages for no benefit. 7) Ample meals. Give your goldfish fresh spinach or lettuce on a veggie clip often and feed them heavily on a good variety of different foods several times a day. My fish get Omega One pellets, Wardley flake food, peas, Repashy Super Green and frozen plankton. 8) Don't overstock. I would recommend only two to three goldfish in a 55 to 75 gallon and three or four in a 125 if you intend them to grow to a normal size. As long as you have enough healthy plants your nitrogen tests should always be 0-0-0 and you should never have to scrape algae. If you add too many fish for the plants to handle the system will become unbalanced and stop working as intended. Anyway, those are my thoughts and experiences. I hope they help anyone who wants to set up a dirt planted goldfish tank.
  7. Hey. I've had my goldfish nami for almost 2 years now. I want to say he's a mix of oranda and fantail. I recently moved from NJ to Maryland in feb, and since the move he's been sitting on the bottom of the tank on his side. At first first he wasn't really eating and all the bottom side sitting on sand was giving him sores. I immediately moved him into a quarantine tank. After about a month ish of treatment and cotton swabs, his sores on the gills and body were healed, but he's still on his side. Its now been about 5 months? His health has been increasing, then decreasing and the only reason I haven't euthanized him is because I feel like he's trying so hard to get back up, but can't because he just sinks to the bottom? It seems like his body weight is too much him to get back up. He also has grown very very little compared to my other goldfish since I moved. I recently came back from working out of town, and when I came back he looks really thin and weak, and I've been feeding a mix of JumpStart and Medigold from goldfish connections as well has rephasy and he is a lot more lively, but just seems like he can't get off his side. Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level- 0ppm * Nitrite Level 0ppm * Nitrate level 0ppm * Ammonia Level 0ppm * Nitrite Level 0ppm * Nitrate level 0ppm * Ph Level, Tank 7.5ppm * Ph Level, Tap 7.5ppm Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API freshwaster master drops test kit * Water temperature? unknown * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 5months 29gal * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Aquaclear 110 * How often do you change the water and how much? 7days 75-80% * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 2days 80-90% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 (in the video I temporary had 2 2" fantails in the tank, but nami has been in "quarantine" by herself for 5months * What kind of water additives or conditioners? seachem Prime. * What do you feed your fish and how often? 2-3 times a day. Lately feeding him medigold, jumpstart, hikari baby sinking pellet, rephasy gel food. * Any new fish added to the tank? n/a * Any medications added to the tank? aquarium salt, api stress coat, api, melafix * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. in feb, when nami first started bottom sitting and not eating, because of the open sores, I did alcohol swabs to kill the bacteria. I did this only about twice for only the new sores. Over the past couple months I have used a combination of melafix, pimafix, aquarium salt and stress. I also have done a anti-bac bath (7day process) from goldfishconnections and that helped a lot when nami had open sores. I started used melafix/pimafix again recently because I noticed some red streaks on his tail. His health has getting better, than dropping, which is why I haven't given up hope. He seems full of more strength at the moment and trying to swim rightside up, but it seems like the body weight is too much for him to lift himself up. However, he has grown very very little (a few .01ozs) in the past 5 months, compared to my other goldfish. * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? - used to have grains of salt? previously when he was bottom sitting on his side, a few grains of sand would be embedded into his body. I removed them and removed the sand from the tank. Used to have sores and fungus on gills but that was healed after some time and through the anti bac bath. Currently has some (few) red streaks on tail and small amount of finrot on one corner of the tail. * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc. Bottom side sitting for the past 5 months. Originally was not eating as much but now eats very well when dropped food near him. I am currently trying to upload a video, but will post one soon ; 3; ~ I don't want to give up hope on nami :C
  8. Heyyy , I haven't been on in ages so thought I would just show you the tanks to get started again I still have Blacky and Patchy; Blacky is now 5 years old and Patchy is 4. They are both older than that but that's how long I have had them. Unfortunately my guppy tank caught a disease so I restarted the tank and I know have 4 guppies. Crimson,Coral,Pinky and Maroon. The goldfish tank New plants. Anubias on wood and moss ball Patchy Blacky The guppy tank The guppy tank side view Hope you enjoyed. Thanks for reading x
  9. This is an article about how to deal with a common pleco if you keep one with your goldfish out of misinformation or lack of knowledge before purchase. The common pleco is one of the most commonly sold varieties of plecostomus at most LFS. With that, many of us end up buying one of these fish that we think will conveniently keep our tank algae free. Eventually we are hit by the realization that the common pleco grows to be a fairly large fish, produces a large amount of waste, and clearly is not satisfied by the algae that may or may not naturally grow in our aquarium. I have been there, and done that, and the following post is based on my personal experience over the past five years as well as reading up a lot about this on various pleco forums: A. If you can, stay away from the common pleco before you buy one. There are other plecos that do well with goldfish, and I will get into that in a little bit. B. If you have a small common pleco and can still return him to the LFS, return him if you are ok with that decision. C. If you have a common pleco with your goldfish, and you also have at least a 55g tropical tank to move him into, do that but make sure to slowly transition the pleco to the new water parameters (temperature, pH etc). If none of the above applies to you, then keep reading for some helpful information: Common plecos are some of the largest fish available at most LFS. These fish can grow to a length of up to 24+ inches, although the average size seems to be at around 11-15 inches in an aquarium, unless your tank volume is in the three-digits. This is similar to any breed of goldfish, who all have the potential to grow to a body length of 8-12 inches if enough space and food is provided. The minimum tank size to keep these guys in is 55 gallons. Ensure to provide at least the same amount of water volume per pleco as you would do with goldfish (ideally a minimum of 150% of that amount), or be sure that you will do a lot of water changes on his tank. Common plecos are generally peaceful fish. They are for the most part nocturnal, and in order to be comfortable during the bright day time, they require hiding spaces such as larger pieces of drift wood (most recommended) or artificial caves, plants etc. A common pleco in a completely bare tank with just a couple plants will become stressed out over time and is more likely to display aggressive behavior. Due to their nocturnal nature, they enjoy not only hiding places, but also dark substrate to aid their camouflage coloring. There is a reason they have this dark and light camouflage pattern. My current tank has a few hand fulls of dark substrate along with two pieces of drift wood and a bunch of dark brown and black large river rocks either placed on the bottom of the tank, or with tall anubias tied to them, or several rocks siliconed into small, tall formations for additional cover. Their natural habitat are streams and rivers, and they enjoy stronger current. Overfiltration (10x tank volume per hour or more) is definitely recommended. Mine loves to swim downwards in the current of the bubble wand powered by a Whisper 300, in addition to 770gph HOB filtration in a 55g tank, along with an Aquaclear 20 Powerhead (127gph) placed as close to the bottom left back corner of the tank as possible. The common pleco's natural diet consists mostly of algae during their early time. Of course since they grow to be rather large, algae alone will not suffice. They begin to eat decaying plant material as well as decaying bodies, such as sick or dying fish. This is where one of the "myths" come from that a common pleco will attack your goldfish because the goldfish's slime coat is tasty. The truth is this: Yes, they will attack the goldfish because the goldfish's slime coat is quite nutritious. But this happens due to the fact that a large fish like the common pleco will have a tough time competing with goldfish, especially considered that the pleco is mostly nocturnal. Often, a pleco kept with goldfish will starve to a degree. As we know, goldfish are little pigs and they will immediately gobble up pretty much anything edible you drop into the tank. Plecos, being nocturnal, won't always come out to eat when food is served throughout the day, as it is mostly against their nature. Aside from that, even if they get past their shyness and try, the piggish goldfish are more than likely to have consumed most of the food that was provided. Even if you feed algae wafers for bottom feeders, chances are 9.5 out of 10 that your goldfish will have eaten most of that before the pleco even dares to approach the food. "Attacking" other fish happens due to the fact that as the common pleco grows older and significantly larger, the little bit of algae alone is not enough to sustain these fish. They do crave some protein too, and I like to toss a generous pinch of goldfish pellets into the tank every night just before I go to sleep. A lot of it will still be eaten by the goldfish, but in the dark the pleco is more likely to forage for stray pellets. Gel food such as homemade or Repashy Soilent or Super Green work great too, but you will have to feed a considerable amount because the goldfish will want to gobble up as much as possible. Again, a good amount of gel food fed a couple hours after the tank lights go off will significantly help the pleco in finding enough food. In addition to that it is highly beneficial to have some blanched vegetable available in the tank most of the time. This won't be gobbled up by a goldfish within minutes, but usually lasts for hours or even a couple of days, depending on how much vegetable there is vs fish and how much other things you feed. Peeled, (seeded), blanched zucchini, cucumber, spinach and kale, or other green vegetables are almost always available in my tank. That way the pleco can eat over night with being disturbed by the goldfish. Another reason for common plecos (or even small plecos) to "attack" your goldfish is disease or injury. In nature, plecos are somewhat of a cleaning crew. Reducing algae, eating decaying plant material, and consuming diseased or dead fish is all in their nature. Keeping an ill or injured (gold)fish with any kind of pleco poses a serious threat to the health and live of the affected fish. Should one of your (gold)fish be ill or injured, always make sure to QT them away from any other fish! We have even seen cases where even mellow (gold)fish would start eating on their still living but ill or injured buddy, causing (further) injury or even the death of the affected fish. Driftwood. Most varieties of plecos require submerged wood. They will graze on it and consume some of the fibers which are beneficial to their digestion. Aside from that, as mentioned above, a properly sized piece of driftwood will offer cover to an otherwise stressed and aggressive fish. Keep in mind that as your common pleco grows you will have to offer larger hiding places. Not too long ago, my own pleco started to be somewhat stressed out because the smaller piece of wood and the few pieces of anubias would not provide proper cover for him any longer, and he would freak out several times a day, dashing about, and darting to the surface. And if there wasn't a cover he might even have even accidentally jumped out of the tank. I then ordered another piece of wood as well as a bunch of tall anubias, added a medium sized clay pot laying sideways and made small "walls" out of up to 5-6 pieces of kid-fist sized dark river rocks. Since the addition of these things he has not freaked out at all, even with the lights on. So yeah. If you can, stay away from adding common plecos with your goldfish, until you have a very large (100+ gallons) tank availabe, and still make sure to keep the pleco as comfortable as possible. As for the smaller varieties of plecos (under 6-8 inches) that usually can live with goldfish without problems (if you provide enough food and keep sick goldfish away from the pleco), here is a quick list of the most commonly available plecostomus varieties: Bristlenose Pleco Rubbermouth Pleco aka Rubberlip Pleco aka Bulldog Pleco Clown Pleco Royal Pleco
  10. I realized that I have not updated on the - to me - most intriguing fish in my tanks: Sucky Fishie, the common pleco with the most original name. Backstory: I got him/her five years ago when I first started out with fish keeping in my adult life. Knowing Jack about any fish, I started out with eight goldfish and two common plecos in an uncycled 10 gallon tank. Sucky Fishie was one of the original inhabitants of this tank, made it through the cycling process that killed about 85% of my fish back then - original inhabitants as well as replacements for the ones that were "naturally dying because fish don't live long". As you can imagine, I was very ignorant back then and had no idea that "sucker fish" would grow big and are generally not the ideal tank mates for goldfish. However, thanks to Koko's I learned a lot of things about all sort of fish. Yet I could not part with Sucky Fishie, because it was my fault that he was in my tank, and I did and still do not feel comfortable with the thought of giving him away and submit him to a to me unknown care. I bought him, so he was my responsibility. Pushing him off to make him someone else's problem seemed extremely wrong and unfair to me. Instead, I try to accommodate him as much as possible, and during the half decade he lived with me and my goldfish, he has been the nicest guy ever - or girl, although I tend to think of the fish as a boy. Unfortunately his growth may have been inhibited due to the extended improper care he received from me back when I didn't know any better, and at five plus years old he is only about 9-10 inches long. I am sure he would have grown bigger in the care of an educated person, but there is nothing I can change about that now. Anyway, here are some pics and a video of my big boy, whom I love to death. Even stunted, he could easily fit my pinky finger into his mouth I love his eyes with their "omega iris". It is so cool how the iris (the light circle at the top of the pupil) will expand or contract depending on the level of light, covering more or less of the pupil. In high light the pupil will be crescent shaped, looking like an upside down Omega symbol. Moved him into one of my 6 quart tubs for the photo shoot. Size comparison to your standard ceramic ring This photo makes me think of a banana-gun And here the short video. As you see, this giant is actually quite gentle
  11. I plan on getting a thirty gallon, and I need to know if I can keep one or two Goldies in there. The breeds I'd be choosing from would be; ryukin, oranda, fantail, veiltail, or black moor. I want to make sure I do this right and my fish get the best lives possible. Thanks!
  12. Hello, I posted this question on [someforum].com but got some conflicting advice, so wanted to repost here. I have a 5" comet goldfish named Kaji in a 36 gallon bowfront tank measuring 24"L x 15"W x 21"H. It has two HOB filters, an Aqueon Quietflow 30 and a Fluval Aquaclear 50, and a 20" bubbled wand attached to a powerful airpump. There are no other fish or living creatures and no live plants in the tank. Kaji is very active, has a very good appetite and his gills fins, etc. appear very healthy as far as I can tell. However, ever since I introduced him into this tank (about 2 months ago) he has been going to the surface for quick gulps of air too often (about once every 5-10 minutes, sometimes more, sometimes less). He doesn't hang at the top or sip air constantly, he just takes a gulp then goes back to searching for food or whatever he was doing. The only other strange behavior I can think of is that now that he is in the larger tank, he sleeps hovering a couple inches above the gravel instead of lower down right on top of the gravel. To give you some background, I got Kaji 6 months ago when he was about 1.5". He was an unexpected "gift" that one of my friends won from a fair. Since I didn't have time to prepare for him, the first 4 months I had to put him in an uncycled 5.5 gal aquarium, where he lived by himself. In the first 2 weeks I got him, despite frequent water changes, he developed fin rot and popeye, but he made a full recovery after I treated him with Maracyn 2 and the tank eventually did cycle okay. In the smaller tank he almost never went to the surface for air. However, ever since I put him in the bigger, more spacious 36 gallon tank with two filters and a bubble wand, he has been going to the surface for air a lot. The tank cycled almost immediately because I used the filter, media and gravel from the old tank. Water parameters also seem both normal and consistent (see below). On the other forum, some people suggested it could be flukes, but this would be odd because Kaji acts very active and healthy and his gills are a normal pink-orange color when they open and don't seem to be moving rapidly. Also, I have never introduced other fish, live plants or live food into either of his aquariums. Today I just began treating the tank with prazipro just in case. So far, his behavior hasn't changed -- he's still both active and going to the top for air quite often. I'm completely stumped and would really appreciate any insight or advice people could give me. Thank you! Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) 5 * Ammonia Level(Tap) .5 (but became 0 after I treated with a double dose of Seachem Prime) * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0 * Nitrate level(Tap) 0 * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7, 120, 180 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7, 40, 120 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops for ammonia API test trips for other parameters * Water temperature? 77 F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 36 gal, 24"L x 15"W x 21"H , running for about 2 months * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Aqueon Quietflow 30 and Fluval Aquaclear 50 * How often do you change the water and how much? once a week, 7 gallons (20%)
  13. Hello KoKo's Forum Members! I currently have either 3 Rosy Reds, or 3 Common Goldfish. I'm not sure, or even how to go about on how to find out what kind of goldfish they are. But I am thinking about rehoming them. So does anyone live in the Lebanon, New Hampshire area, that would like them, care for them? But that is not what this post is about. I'm trying to decide what kind of Goldfish to get. I was thinking of a Ryukin. But I'm trying to find a goldfish that has the following charistics. Very Colorful, Like A Koi. Has Many Fins, Like A Ryukin, FanTail & VeilTail So, with that being said, What do you think would be a good choice? Thank you! I like to also consider myself a -->
  14. Hey Folks! Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) - Dont know * Nitrite Level(Tank) - 0 * Nitrate level(Tank) - 5 * Ammonia Level(Tap) - Dont know * Nitrite Level(Tap) - 0 * Nitrate level(Tap) - 5 * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) pH-7.2, KH-3, GH-8, Chlorine-0 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) pH-6, KH-3, GH-0-4, Chlorine-1.5 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Tetra test strips * Water temperature? 74F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 8 Gallons (I know its a little small) - about 4 months * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? build in with Fluval tank * How often do you change the water and how much? about 10% once a week * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? today 15%, 2 days ago 20% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 about 2inches * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Nutrafin Cycle, Nutrafin Aqua plus and Aqualibrium salt * What do you feed your fish and how often? Flake food normally once a day but stopped as hes not eating * Any new fish added to the tank? Nope * Any medications added to the tank? Nope * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Salt at about 0.2% * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? No fish look perfectly healthy * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Staying at top of tank but not gasping/Gulping just sitting there but will occasionaly swim about/swin down then go back. Also not eating Started happening about 5 days ago and no change after 2 water changes so looking for some opnions...?
  15. Sooooooo on my way back from Jasper this weekend (which was soooooo much fun!), I got my BF to stop in the city, and I ended up picking up my first ever fancy goldfish! I have only ever owned single tails, so I am so excited!!! He was the only one left in his tank, and he was very active and adorable, so I had to have him!!! Plus s/he was only $3!!! No name yet, but here is my new baby Has the cutest little grumpy face ever!!!!!!!!! [/url] And here is his tank buddy, my albino long finned bristlenose pleco (chillen under the leaf) I also got myself a new betta, which I will post pictures of soon
  16. ....an entire two chapters of your graduate level zoology class are dedicated to the nitrogen cycle of aquatic vertebrates- i so got this !!! it's always nice when something you're passionate about becomes useful in your scholastic life
  17. I introduced my black moor back in with my other goldfish yesterday after a month or so in quarantine for suspected fin rot. He seemed fine and so did the others until this afternoon. I noticed one of my other goldfish, my smallest one, has a tiny rip in the dorsal fin and 3 rips in the tail including one very long one. It looks nothing like fin rot and it happened over a few hours, so I'm sure it's torn fins instead. I've been watching him all evening, he's been mainly in the back corner of the tank . Then about an hour ago, I found that one of my other fish is chasing this small one, and one other. The other being chased now also has a rip in her tail, which has appeared within the last half hour. I've had this trouble before when I first bought this bullying fish about a year and a half ago. He started this not long after introducing him. He calmed down after a week but my fish were so tired after being chased. I'm assuming he's starting to get territorial since introducing the black moor back in. I don't know what to do because I really don't want to take him out because I've just drained my quarantine tank. But obviously I don't want my fish to get hurt either. Do you think it's best to leave them be? He doesn't do it constantly, and it's not concentrated on one fish, but is he going to cause any severe damage? He puts his nose under their tail and he pushes them so they swim like mad. He doesn't seem to be "nipping" though.
  18. I got to thinking.... I know that it can be extremely difficult to say how fast goldfish grow, but is it easier to ask when they are done growing? Do we just have to wait until a few months have gone by with no growth, or is there a set age goldfish stop growing, kind of like humans? Are they done after 2 years? 3? Any replies appreciated. Interested in seeing the views on this.
  19. Hello! I was wondering what the recommended flow rate is for goldfish aquariums equipped with canister filters. I know that for HOB filters the recommended rate is 10x tank volume per hour. Is it the same for canister filters? Taking into account that the water passes through much more media, would it reduce the amount of flow needed to effectively clean a tank? I know that there are some that still firmly believe in the 10x rule even for canisters, while there are others, like Jennie from SolidGold, who recommend only 5x the flow rate for tanks that are being filtered by canisters. Any answers are much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  20. * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? about 60 liters, and ive had the acuarium for about 4 years * How often do you change the water and how much? ca 2times in a month (i change ca 25% of the water) * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? today, and i changed 25% * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 goldfish and it is ca the size of a golfball * What do you feed your fish and how often? goldfishfood once a day * Any new fish added to the tank? nope * Any medications added to the tank? nope * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? my fish has clear bubblelike things on the side of her belly * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? she has been leing on the bottom of the tank and not been eating for Ca 1-2 weeks. but eats and swims around now. What is wrong with my fish?
  21. Hi, all. Just got home today and noticed these in my tank for the first time. What the heck are they??? They appear to ONLY have stuck to the wood in the tank, and do not seem to be moving/alive. My guess is eggs...but from what? I have apple snails and one nerite. And, of course, the goldies. Any help appreciated!
  22. I have a 12 gallon marineland tank that I am considering putting a goldfish in, but I have a couple of Marmino moss balls from Petsmart that I have been told are poisonous to goldfish. Is this true?
  23. So, I'm pretty sure you can freeze them, but I just want a second opinion. I recently bought some Omega One and New Life Spectrum, they're really good quality (and expensive!) foods, so I don't want to mess anything up. I opened them about a month ago, so I guess it's best to preserve some while it's still fresh. It expires in 2014, and there's no way I'll get through the whole container by then. I just have a few questions: ~How do you go about freezing it? Just put some in a ziploc bag? ~Does it lose it's taste and\or nutritional value when thawed? ~Does it become soggy when thawed? ~How long can the food last in the freezer? How long does it last when thawed? If there's any other methods of preserving pellets, please share. But I think I'm most comfortable by freezing it.
  24. One day I will get one but q is I have a 5 gallon can one one live or could I have more. I never had one,I would too buy one day.
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