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  1. Whatever fish you add, make sure that it does not pick on your gf. Some fish, even if defined as being "well-mannered" seem to enjoy harrassing bloated gf.
  2. I will opt for white vinegar.
  3. Temperature plays an important factor. Usually, at temps between 20 - 24 deg. C., it will take about 2 days. Shortly before hatching, the embryo makes violent movements inside the egg shell. These movements, aided by an enzyme which softens the shell, enables the fry to break free. The tail emerges from the egg shell, followed by the head. The most prominent feature is the yolk sac. The fry hang by a stcky secretion to any firm surface; during this period the yolk sac is consumed. After about another 2 days the fry will manage to struggle to the surface and the tiny air bladder will become inflated. From that stage the fry become free-swimming and will begin their hunt for food.
  4. Hmmm.... Incidentally everyone has a heart and all of us who house fish or other pets do this out of love. I totally agree with what Daryl stated and I always point out that "you have to be cruel to be kind". How many breeders tried to raise a numerous batch and did not even manage to raise a single "good" specimen? Culling could be a sad word in every goldfish breeder dictionery. But this is the only word that can lead to great specimens and ensures that we lead top quality fish for ourselves and for the trade.
  5. Good thinking Shamu, maybe I will stick to an all goldies tank
  6. Thanks Shamu. I do not intend to house koi forever in this tank. I have got ponds for such. But showing some small tategoi would be interesting. This tank will be a public exhibit, mainly for school children and its purpose is educational. My concern is equipment. At home I usually go for diy, but this time I have "some budgeted spending money" and intend to go for the best efficient system. Any suggestions on pumps, filters, UV's, etc?
  7. Hi all, I am thinking of setting a large display aquarium - 5500 litres. This coldwater setup will be mainly for goldfish and a few butterfly koi. Any suggestions on: 1. The best filtration system, including pumps, media, etc 2. Lighting 3. UV Sterilizer 4. Other equipment Thanks.
  8. Thanks for your immediate replies. Most literature state that shubunkins that are single self-colour or pinkish white, are not considered to be of any value. Gills that are pink seem to lack pigmentation.
  9. A 1000+ shubunkin brood is now about 3 months old; most fry have now exceeded 1". 5% look very very promising and have been put in a seperate quarters for top attention. 20% reverted to steel grey colour. 20% have 'lack shape perfection' and will be humainly discarded. Most of the rest have all positive qualities, including early colour with beautiful patches and good body shape, but are pink gills; some on one side, others on both. Most of you have a heart for all specimens, but sometimes you have to be cruel to be kind and upgrade your stock quality. Should these be discarded? Thanks.
  10. Nice specimens Sushi67 I also house shrimps - Cherries, CRS, Bumble-bees and Blacks and all are very prolific. Personally I would remove the Apple snail since it eats plants Some nice red Ramshorns would be more appropriate; just control their population! Well done
  11. Usually I culture new clumps (attached to stones or bogwood) every 2 - 3 months but, as you well explained, can be a real pain in the butt to control loose portions.
  12. Here is another pic of this setup - The foreground plant is not Glosso (although there is some Glosso on the sides); it is a rare local plant - Elatine gussonei. Its natural habitat are shallow rockpools; forms a pretty dense carpet (green highlighter shade) in winter and dies out in summer when the pools dry out. A friend of mine has managed to keep this plant submersed for over a year. The greatest challenge is to provide low temperature. Here in Malta temperatures shoot up the scale in summer This is submersed Riccia. Looks pretty when pearling although requires constant attention.
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