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Everything posted by viscosity2004

  1. I think they will as long as the betta is introduced last. Even female bettas will tend to be territorial if they are given too much time by themselves.
  2. He has the same eyes as an old pearlscale I used to have. It's just pigmentation, so you shouldn't be concerned about blindness. It's possible that he simply has a deformed dorsal fin. Anyway he looks like a cutey.
  3. Dumping food products can generate mold if not cleaned up properly. You have to be extra careful if you're going to go that route.
  4. Anything with perfumes or dyes are going to be bad for your aquarium. Try to find another source of ammonia. If you're really having a difficult time, go to a petshop and see if they have "bacteria food." They don't normally have ingredients on the label, but I suspect that it's just pure ammonia based on the smell & ammonia readings I got when I decided to use it.
  5. When you say "red/white," I'm going to assume you mean the red-cap coloration. It's not unique to sarasas since sarasa comets are bread mostly for their long finnage. If you really like the red/white combo, there are other types of goldfish that tend to have it such as orandas & ryukins. Whether or not a fish retains the coloring depends on its genetics/nutrients/general aquarium hygiene. The higher quality, the longer those colorings are expected to last.
  6. With 60 gallons to roam around in, I wouldn't be worried about overfiltering. I say go for the largest filter you can afford, install it, and carefully monitor your fish's activity. B/c they're small, they might not have the strength to deal with the suction power created by the intake tubes of the filters --> scales & fins sucking out You may want to consider covering the intake strainers with some minor filter sponge/fiber to keep the fish from being sucked up.
  7. YES!!! Goldfish are NOT kept in the greatest conditions when they're provided for petstores, especially the big-chain ones. They're in disgusting water that creates surviving lots that only become carriers of bacteria & parasites. Personally, I do not want my turtle eating any of THAT.
  8. B/c she fixed them after I made my post. I like shubs too; however when they're young, their black spots tend to be splotchy.
  9. That sucks Vicki. I think it's important to emphasize to potential customers that petstores do not provide a good example of an appropriate setup for all their animals. Just look at their cats & dogs, do you think it's appropriate to keep a dog or cat in a tiny cage all day with nothing to do and no exercise until someone purchases them? No, I certainly hope not. It's very important to research the needs and requirements of any potential pet.
  10. I dunno about there not being "feeders." My fish certainly love being fed.
  11. These stores rely on a HIGH fish turnover -- this means these fish are expected to be purchased before their next shipment. For every healthy fish you see in a petstore, you can safely bet there are at least ten that didn't make it and were quickly cleared from view.
  12. That definitely IS unusual. If it's a big chain petstore, then they're simply obliged to label the fish whatever the shipper told them to -- despite whether or not it's mislabeled.
  13. Is your ten gallon gravel-bottom or barebottom? How is your current filter? Transfer the water + fish + filter may or may not give you a cycle bump, but I think as long as you do it slowly and carefully you'll be fine. The surface gravel may be home to a lot of nitrifying bacteria, so you'll want to make sure that these same gravel are on the top again if you decide to transfer any gravel to the new tank. If you decide to transfer gravel, it would also be a good time to vacuum the heck out of it with a siphon after you move your fish to a different container. A LOT of junk & solid waste gets trapped down there and disturbance of it while your fish are still in the tank may cause a release of pathogens.
  14. Hm, I'm inclined to think you have elodea since those are common petstore plants that grow well under low-light conditions. Good luck on your fish & please keep us updated on your situation.
  15. There's no shame in buying a used-tank or using a very large rubbermaid bin. In emergency situations, a lot of members here on the forum will use rubbermaids as temporary tanks in order to get the large water volume they need. Even some members use rubbermaids as permanent homes & just convert it into an in-door pond arrangement. The important thing is to get the volume you need to dilute waste products & byproducts. You certainly came to the right place! Lots of people care about their pets dearly, a fish is no worse than people really loving their dogs or horses. It's a creature that depends on us for survival & it's good to know you're trying your very best to care for it. Through good times & bad, a pet-owner is someone who upholds the responsibility of owning a pet. If at any time you feel overwhelmed, Koko's is here to support you. We will certainly do our best to aid you in anyway possible. Whether or not you want algae is up to you. There are fishkeepers who absolutely adore algae & do their best to cultivate it in their tanks. There are others who hate it and do anything possible to keep it out. In general, green algae can be beneficial as it absorbs waste byproducts in the tank & releases oxygen into the water. Like other plants, algae uses light from the sun to do photosynthesis, but you can also promote algae growth by using strong artificial lighting sources. If the last water change was on the 9 & today is the 22nd and you're still reading 0/0/5 and you're overstocked, then I'm a little worried about your results. Unless you have something in there that's eating up the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate such as a heavy plant load, then you should be reading higher numbers. What type of testing equipment did you obtain, strips or chemical drops? Strips tend to be not as accurate, but are usually "do-able" if necessary. If you have time & transportation, I recommend getting a sample of your water & asking your local aquaria petstore to test it for you. Make sure they give you actual numbers & not good/bad/moderate. This will be another mode of comparison for you. For now, I would recommend a large water change everyday. Be sure to condition the water & to match the temperature & pH as close as possible. When adding water, be careful not to create too much turbulence as the sudden movement might stress your fish. Frequent water changes in lieu of a large living container will help reduce the level of waste present in the tank. If you have a siphon, stick it in various places in the gravel to suck up any feces. If you notice that the red spots are becoming more numerous & the condition of your fish worsens, you may want to consider increasing your salt concentration slowly up to 0.3%. Please research whether or not this will affect you bullfrog tadpole, I'm not familiar with a tadpole's needs. Good luck & keep us updated! Edit: I re-read your description of the tank and you mentioned live plants. How many & what type of plants? These will affect your ammonia/nitrite/nitrate readings.
  16. Be sure to also test your tap water so you have something to compare it to. If you do test your tap, let the water stand out for several minutes -- pipe water is highly pressurized & will often give false reading until the dissolved gases have reach an equilibrium. If you tested right after doing a water change, then your numbers are plausible. Please consider testing at least once a day so you have a good handle of how your parameters change each day. Hang onto the melafix for now, you can do a low-dose of salt if you like, but generally it's a good idea to get a firm handle on your water parameters before you start adding any medicated products. Have you thought about rehoming them in a larger container? What will be your plans for them?
  17. It's difficult to say what to do unless her symptoms get worse. Perhaps it's worth it to just stick it out, keep an extra close eye on the water params and see if there are any other changes in behavior.
  18. Sorry to hear about your fish. I would strongly recommend that you check out the links in my signature. Your tank is well over-stocked. You need to change you water more frequently. The fact that you remove & disrupt your gravel during your water changes makes me suspect that you have not properly established a cycle in your tank. So basically, you need to rehome your pets in a larger volume of water, provide a filter with a higher turnover, and find a way to test your water. Aquatic petstores will generally test a sample of your water for free. Good luck!
  19. It looks like a bit of scar tissue. Is it possible she caught her wen on something? Do you have a heater, perhaps she was very close to it while sleeping & when it turned on, it burnt her wen?
  20. In general, a fish must be able to use its own immune system to ward off any pathogens. These pathogens are ALWAYS in the aquarium, so there's no real way to completely get rid of them -- even if you decide to PP-bomb it every so often. What drugs should enable you to do is get rid of a SIGNIFICANT amount of the pathogens. A correct dosing & treatment time should clear most of the pathogens from the fish, allowing them to return to a healthy immune function. Genetic mutations in bacteria, parasites, etc. will always lead to a few that are drug-resistant. However, the hope is that the ## of those resistant pathogens are very very small. So by the time you're finished dosing, the fish has a chance to recuperate, and their immune system should be able to deal with things on a day-to-day basis. Also, in general, it's not in a bacteria's/parasite's/etc's best interest to always be drug-resistant if the drug is not prevalent in the environment. It usually requires the organism to use up energy that could better be directed to other metabolic functions. This is why it's important to only use drugs when you need them. Keeping them available in the environment all the time allows those drug-resistant pathogens to survive & not have to compete with non-drug resistant "brothers" for nutrients. As you can see, that can be a really big issue.
  21. Just buy some plain gelatin powder from the grocers.
  22. ^_^;; Instead of holding the fish in front of the food, why not hold the food in front of the fish? I recently started spoon feeding my goldies their gel foods and they seem to take to it quickly.
  23. With a large enough tank, I feel like you can go well beyond the 10X filtration & do fine. Currently, my tank is experiencing a little over 17X filtration & things have never been better. ^_^ My fish don't surface gulp as much, the bottoms are much more cleaner, and it's generally been better all around.
  24. Gosh I hope not. I aired out the house today and opened up the top on the tank and the smell is dissipated now..... Still it bothers me that it only happens on the goldfish tanks.... I think it may go away when I upgrade the filtration. I guess you just need more aeration where the tank is. Good luck! I just wanted to add, I don't really have a top on my tank. The only thing above it is one of those stand-alone lighting systems that don't require a hood. So perhaps the reason I don't develop a funk is b/c the surface is well aerated. Good luck on your funky woes!
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