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Everything posted by viscosity2004

  1. Most petstores with an aquatic section will be able to test your water for you either for free or for a small fee. If you have a chance, take a sample to be tested and see what they say. Make sure they give you exact numbers and NOT "good/bad/moderate" answers. Also, make sure you're doing the test exactly as the instructions state. Some kits have very fickle reagents that will be WAY off if not done properly.
  2. It seems odd that in an established tank with almost the max # of goldfish you're reading 0 ppm for nitrates. Do you have heavy planting?
  3. Get a syphon and stick the mouth into the gravel vertically. Don't stir the gravel around. It should suck up a lot of what's in there. Depending on the depth of your gravel, you'll have to do this frequently to avoid waste buildup.
  4. If you can run both the old filter and the new filter side-by-side, that'd be great! Just keep an eye on the current to make sure your fish are strong enough to handle the power. Otherwise, just stick the old filter somewhere inside the new filter. The more media you have in your filters, the more surface area nitrifying bacteria can live in. If you've only had your old tank for 3 days, it's probably safe to say you have little to no bacteria growing quite yet. So moving the substrate first shouldn't be a problem. Just be careful placing it in. You don't want to drop it into your new tank and risk cracking the bottom of your brand new tank. Edit: If you do any washing with your substrate with hot or chlorinated tap water, you're likely to lose any bacteria that has formed on it so far. So be very gentle and use dechlor room temp water.
  5. Tips on upgrading: Generally it's a good idea to let new equipment run for 24 hours to ensure that everything is functioning NORMALLY. You don't want to move everything to the new tank and realize something is horribly wrong. x_x;; If you wish to use the same substrate, be careful moving it! Place the fish in a separate container. Moving substrate will usually cause a lot of waste built up to suddenly shift and float out of the substrate, which can result in toxicity in your fish if exposed. Try to syphon out as much of the waste as possible before moving the substrate. You can move some of the old water if you really want to, however, it's generally not necessary if you properly treat and prepare the new water. You can put a bubbler anywhere you want, as long as the bubbles aren't getting sucked up by the filter. Air in the filter can cause it to malfunction. You can also put any other decorations wherever you feel is most aesthetically pleasing. In order to determine how much water to change per week and how often, it's important to have the capability to test your water. You want to do as much water changes as it takes to keep your ammonia below 0.25 ppm, nitrite below 0.25 ppm, and your nitrates below 30 ppm. If your room temp doesn't fluctuate very much, you may be better off without the heater. Heaters + goldfish are only good when you're just stabilizing the water temp. Make sure you carry over any other filter media to your new filter. You'll need all your nitrifying bacteria to help decrease any potential bumps in your cycle. And don't be afraid to go slowly, it's better to be safe than sorry. Good luck.
  6. Sorry, I don't know if there's a standard name for the light fixture I'm talking about. But if you search in the light fixture section of your petstore or online pet supplies website, I'm sure you'll see what I'm talking about. Here's an example: That's a kind that attaches to the edges of your tank. The one I have sits directly on the edges and doesn't have attachments. If you can get anything used, it'll definitely save you a ton!
  7. Hey SeeQuee, I was in the exact same position as you when I got my 40-gal breeder. None of the home improvement places would cut glass or plexiglass to my specifications, so I ended up going hoodless and just searching for a overhead light. At one point I tried using a really long glass cover, but it started bowing in the center and algae would grow on it like crazy, so I ended up scrapping it. Having it hoodless has been really great as it allows the top to be well ventilated. The overhead light I'm using now I was able to get used on Craigslist.com. I didn't even search, I just made an ad saying I needed one and little less than a week later, someone in the neighborhood offered one that he didn't need anymore. Hopefully you'll have the same luck. Buying a brand new overhead light or custom hood costs a fortune for breeders since they're an uncommon dimension.
  8. If you have not yet purchased your third fish, I recommend that you get more familiar with breeders or stores to figure out which one you feel is best. Then after you get your 90gallon, you can order a fish. Risking a stocking problem and letting yourself get fish on impulse buys only make things difficult.
  9. Perhaps you should remove the 1st guppy, rearrange the tank, do a large water change, and then home them together. Perhaps your guppy is feeling territorial and a change in water & decoration will make him less aggressive.
  10. They're quite convenient, but more expensive per ounce than the bigger bottles.
  11. It depends on the concentration you purchase. The bigger bottles are a little less concentrated than the tiny dropper bottles, so they recommend 1mL/gallon. I emailed the makers of prime once b/c I wanted to increase the dosage while I was away on holiday. They said 5X dose was safe, but anything beyond is iffy and not recommended.
  12. Okay, sounds like you're having major parasite issues. I've sent a message to one of the Mods to take a special look at this thread. I'm not very good at determining specific parasites, so hopefully the MOD or another member will have more specific advice regarding possible drugs. The most important thing right now is to make sure that the water is PRISTINE. This means zero ammonia, zero nitrites, and very low (~20) nitrates. You may want to consider slowly bringing the salt to 0.3% as we discussed last week. Good luck, I hope your fish get better soon.
  13. Maybe she was jealous and thought "Perhaps if I'm in a glass box too, my human will pay more attention to me."
  14. I heard you can treat plants with a dose of parasite-clear. Do you think that's a good option?
  15. Heck, I'll take you up on that offer!! How much did you get it for?
  16. I'm so jealous! I've always wanted one, but I never see any around here & I'm scared my goldies will tear it to pieces. x_x
  17. Click here for Article tl;dr A woman decided to go on a trip overseas and asked her neighbor/friend to watch her home-bred goldfish that lived in a green-water pool in her backyard. One night, about 30 fish are stolen! It's so sad!
  18. Better be careful or you'll be calling them Dericks.
  19. I think I've seen those, but I have no clue what they have inside them that is supposedly helpful. I'm thinking they have desiccated bacteria inside the part that goes into the water that is supposed to become activated when it's re-hydrated. I have no idea how long it would last though. However, as you mentioned, it's probably just a giant piece of bio media meant to cultivate nitrifying bacteria.
  20. NO TABLE SALT!!!! Table salt has anti-caking agents that are useful for cooking, but not for fish! Use aquarium salt available at your local petshop, kosher salt, or sea salt.
  21. From what I've heard, the drops are more accurate, but it's imperative that you follow instructions to the letter. Any mistakes in handling the reagents will give you faulty answers. If you plan to only use the extra containers are temporary homes, then you don't really have to worry about cycling -- just keep an eye on the water parameters and change when it gets dangerous. The goal is to keep ammonia & nitrite under .25 and to keep nitrates below 20 if possible. Have you been salting or will begin salting soon? Salting definitely helps protect fish during nitrite exposure and will help remove any parasites that may have attacked your fish. If you decide to salt, start with 0.1% & every 12 hours increase by 0.1% until you reach 0.3% for a medicinal effect. 1 Tablespoon per 5 gallons OR 1 teaspoon per gallon = 0.1% salt 2 Tablespoons per 5 gallons OR 2 teaspoons per gallon = 0.2% salt 3 Tablespoons per 5 gallons OR 3 teaspoons per gallon = 0.3% salt I hope your fish get well soon.
  22. Thanks for the advice guys. Tomorrow I'll be going to the grocery store, so I'll pick up some fresh veggies. I think I'll start with some fresh spinach, which is supposed to be high in Vitamins A & C, and Folate. @Trico: Thanks for the info on the white around the tear. I hope it really is healing & doesn't develop into something worse. @_@
  23. I've recently noticed that my calico ryukin might be developing fin rot. He's got a small tear on the very end of his tail that has a little bit of white swelling around it. I'm keeping an extra close eye to his water parameters, so I'm hoping that it will pass on its own. I read somewhere that fin rot can occur due to vitamin deficiency. I'm worried b/c this is the same ryukin that cannot deal with any wheat-based foods, so I've started him on an all gel diet. The last few weeks I've started using Mazuri gel powder (krill + Astaxanthin); however, I wasn't pleased with the way the food was coming out so I decided to dilute the powder with baby food peas rather than just plain water. Things have been going well so far and my ryukin & his oranda tankmate LOVE the gel cubes. But now I'm worried that he's not getting sufficient vitamins. I don't want to stop diluting the powder since it makes the resulting food really crummy (literally) and the fish don't seem to take to it. Is there another way to make sure that they get enough vitamins?
  24. Goldfish, like many other animals, have a sleep-wake cycle too. Though, mine tend to be more awake when they see me home in hopes that dancing around the front of the class will get them more food.
  25. Whoa, super cute. But that's a lot of glass pebbles. x_x;; How much did it cost to put those all over the bottom?
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