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About HappyGoldfish

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  1. Glad to hear your fish is doing better, Laura. It may have just been eggs. Females full of egges will laze about for awhile, and then they're back to their normal selves. I've cut/damaged fish's wen (on purpose and once on accident) and it does tend to heal up very quickly. I've never had problems or infection arise from wen cutting/injury.
  2. I should say that if you use purely a pH adjuster and NOT a pH buffer, your pH may continue to rise when the CO2 dissipates.
  3. Haha, Alex! Thank goodness for emoticons, huh? Emma, you could try the pH up thing. In theory it should work - since the "real" pH of your tap water is 7.8-8.0 and it is only the CO2/carbonic acid driving it down, it shouldn't rise higher than this when the CO2 is gassed off. Looks like it's time for another test.
  4. How long have you had the other fish? I would personally choose not to feed medicated food it unless I really thought it was necessary. I can't see how bad his fins look, so you'll have to decide whether or not something is needed. Swabbing would definitely help if fungus and/or bacteria are a problem, and if it doesn't look too bad and he doesn't have any open sores, I'd probably leave it at that. Medicated food may or may not help, but feeding it will lower your fish's own defenses.
  5. Unforuntately, yes. Get used to those buckets lining the hallways like Koko has! You could get a 55 gal garbage can, fill it, put in an aeration device (probably a pump or powerhead - an airstone won't cut it in this much water in this deep of a container), then get a submersible pump and length of tubing for filling your tanks. This way you'll have perfectly matched pH water AND you won't have to haul buckets!
  6. Like Kev said, check your I's and A's. I'm quite sure you meant nitrAte, but we're just checking on you. 20ppm nitrAte is fine, but 20ppm nitrite and your fish should be dead. If your tank isn't overstocked, you can get by longer without doing water changes. If you choose to go longer between changes, do larger changes when you do do them. Platys aren't near as messy as goldies, so you don't have to be as concerned with the organics piling up. Some of my lesser-stocked goldie tanks and some of my tanks containing other fish varieties only get water changes every 10-14 days, and they do just fine.
  7. Sounds like CO2 may be your problem after all if it rised that much just from the agitation of being poured into a bucket. You could try shaking the dickens out of a tap water sample for a pretty acurate test, rather than wait the full 24 hrs for your "bucket sitting" test.
  8. Hi, Jo. What kind of goldfish is Pob? How big are the spots, and do they look fuzzy/tufty at all? Where exactly on his head are they, and are they anywhere else on his body? See if you can get your ammonia and nitrite levels tested. If you tank a sample of your water to the pet store, they'll test it for you. Make sure you let them know you want actual numbers, don't just let them tell you whether or not your levels are "fine". Bacterial meds can affect your filter, and you may have an ammonia and/or nitrite presence in the tank, so it's important to get it checked.
  9. SazzyC, Blinky and PM are bang on in suspecting your water quality. If you don't have test kits, most pet shops will test the water for you if you bring them a sample. Get actual numbers, don't just let them tell you whether or not it's "okay". Many pet store employees have a funny (meaning wrong) idea of what is "okay". There are other things it could be, but before you do anything else, you'll want to be sure the water quality is great, so get that checked first. Keep us posted.
  10. It can kill the fish if it gets bad enough. The infection won't stop at the tail, it'll progress onto the body and get into the bloodstream.
  11. Oh that sucks, Emma. Filling is the best part of the Python! Lifting buckets to drain water out is no fun, but filling is worse - the toilet is lower than the tank top! What kind of freak faucets do you have over there in the UK?? Any chance you could get a different type? I installed a utility sink just so I could leave my Python hooked up continuously and have somewhere to drain my tanks to (I use a pump + syphon to drain) when I don't feel like running it outside. Alex, .04% is common tap-water salt content. In some places it contains double this amount or more. I doubt any salt is hanging around from a month and a half ago - it's probably just the salt reading of your tap. Let us know what your tests show.
  12. It sounds like she is probably fine. If she did swallow the rock, there isn't much you can do about it now, so don't worry - what can make it in can make it out. I once switched over a large acrylic tank to barebottom, and for the first few days after I removed all the gravel, small pieces of gravel started appearing. One of my fish (the most aggressive eater and, at with an 8" body, the largest in the tank) was expelling them.
  13. It showed up as a link! That's no good. Let's try again.
  14. Hi, Lydia. Here was my response to your previous thread. === Are the fins actually split and red/white, or are they just ragged? Have you checked the pH, just to be sure it's stable? The driftwood could be causing problems, especially if it's reeking terribly. I don't think it happens often enough to rule out the use of driftwood altogether, but sometimes having driftwood in the tank does seem to be problematic. Try removing it. You have nothing to lose, right? It's not normal for your fish's fins to look how they do. Something is up, and with the stinky wood and the addition of Melafix, the organic load in your tank might be a problem. Stop the melafix if you haven't already, take out the driftwood (or at least clean it) and try upping your water changes to get the water nice and clean. Good luck. === Lydia said: Read the color of the test strips instantly. Disregard any color changes as significant amounts of time pass since coming into contact with the water or as the strips dry out. When I said high organics might be a problem, I meant there may be too many organics in your tank, giving the bacteria a feast and allowing it to multiply to the extent it becomes problematic for the fish. Plecos suck on the glass. I'd hold off on the bottom feeder for now, at least until your fish is well. You don't need anything else in there contributing to the waste in the tank. Most bottom feeders get to be a good size (5" or better), so be sure you have adequate tank space before getting any of them. My favorites are otos. They're so darn cute and they only grow to be 1-2 inches. Some people get nervous that their goldies might eat them. They're faster swimmers than those fat little goldies ever could be, and I've kept them together for years without problems on either end. If you want something larger and more pleco-like, a rubbernose or bristlenose plec would do well, just make sure you have the tank space. Quarantine any new arrivals, to be sure they're disease-free and well fed before you add them to your main tank. Good luck with your fish.
  15. Martinez, it may have been me who told you that. I recall once making an analogy along the lines of treating the flu in a room filled with poisonous gas - how the flu isn't the biggest problem, and you're not going to feel better, even with meds, until you get out of that room. If it wasn't me you heard it from - well, it's still a great analogy! Lisa, I would hold off treating with water meds until your water quality is better. You want to be able to change as much of the water as often as necessary to keep it healthy, and people tend to let the water go longer than they should when they've got meds in the tank. Definitely keep some salt in the tank, both to protect from the nitrites and to help with opportunistic bacteria. Add it slowly to keep your developing bacteria from being shocked. Dissolve the salt first and do not pour it directly in your filter, or near the filter uptake. 3 Tbsp per 5 gal is about .3%, and that's the doseage you're going for here. Try to be relatively sure of how much salt you have in the water before you add more. Too much salt will only stress your fish more. The redness on his fins may just be from the water quality. If it progresses and definitely looks bacterial, but your water conditons aren't in good shape for medicating yet, you can take your fish out and swab the areas with iodine (or PP, HP, etc.), then blot dry and apply antibiotic cream if you have some. Cream works better than ointment, if you have the stuff with pain relievers that's alright, and if it comes off in the water and they eat it, that's fine, so don't worry. I would probably try swabbing first anyway, even if your water quality is good. Water meds may disrupt your cycle, even once it's completed, and perfect water goes a long way towards helping fish heal. Poor water quality can cause a lot of your fish's other symptoms (ragged/whitish spots, split fins, boyancy problems), so try not to worry too much just yet. Your fish has been through a lot lately with the poor water conditions and stress of medicating. I assume neither of these fish are especially new arrivals? Good luck.
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