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  1. Sorry I haven't been able to get back on - I've had so much on. It's great you managed to get the injections, but I'm hoping this was a misprint I told her 0.1cc/inch of fish - the dose I wrote was 0.1cc per 6 inches of fish. If you are going to try the shots yourself be very sure you know how to administer them - get her to show you. The best site is into the peritoneal cavity - is this how she's done it so far? Keep the needle at a shallow angle to avoid hitting internal organs. Keeping fish upside down with head in water cuts down on struggling or you can sedate it: 5 drops of clove oil per every gallon needed to cover the fish. Once fish rolls over, remove and place on clean surface and work quickly - if injection squirts back out you have not found the sinus and must try again (run over this with the vet). Return fish to a fresh bucket of water and 'walk' it up and down to pass water over the gills until he 'comes to' Really keeping my fingers crossed for you. Got to go........
  2. Hi Kathleen - I'm dropping in for a flying visit as I am run off my feet and havent had any time for the past couple of days. I am glad everything seems to be going very well and Daryl has been there with invaluable help. Just a couple of thoughts before I have to sign off: Can I just ask should I be dosing the QT tank too with Wormer Plus? I would. Flukes can sometimes invade very deep into the gills; my feeling is that if the dip doesn't knock every thing out (Daryl could confirm this, or not), a stable dose of WP will ensure 24 hour 'killing capacity'! I also tested the water parameters in my Aquarium this morning and ammonia is also zero there which is good. So on your recommendation, I won't be feeding the tank with anything for the next 3 days to feed the cycle. It should be ok right? If there was going to be a bump would it have happened already overnight or could it still happen? No, not until adding the fish again. No fish - no ammonia. Just so you're clear: It is the fish which produces the ammonia which feeds that bacteria in your filter. If you have lost sufficient bacteria, ammonia will not be converted as quickly as usual and it is then that you will see a spike/bump. You won't be finding a spike in the empty main tank without an ammonia source being added in. If it were me, I'd be tempted to feed the filter using the urine option. Did I not persuade you? ha ha! Perhaps Daryl might disagree - I'm sure she'll say so if there is any disadvantage I haven't thought of. No matter if you're disinclined, you can await the return of your fish; but considering the salt and the dry out, you should expect quite a spike to your parameters once he's back in. You will need to test ammonia, and then nitrite, every day to be sure he's within safe limits. One other thing which may help..... If you decide to return the fish into a salt-free environment, I would change out the salt gradually rather than all at once. That way the bacteria in the filter will have more of a chance to adjust to the changing salinity and it will prevent further acteria loss. OK - got to dash..... Will check in later.
  3. My concern is for the long term. If there's a fungal pathogen in the environment - how do I eliminate it without killing the cycle. You could grow yourself a whole new cycle in a bucket and then strip down your tank and re-start with the new pristine media - that would give you 100% peace of mind, if you could bear the hassle. If there's something stubborn and bothersome to the fish, it is sometimes worth it.
  4. Oh no! I'm so sorry she died. every monday I do a 50% water change, you wouldn't think that the ammonia would get too high in much a little time. The thing is that once a week isn't enough during cycling - it's possible, if your testers are off, that the level was very high in which case a 50% w/c may not have been enough to reduce toxicity sufficiently. Try to get API or Tetra drops tests. there was this white mucus stuff covering the part where the red part was Both toxicity and parasites will cause redness and excess slimecoat - we really need your new test results before being certain. Next order of business is to: Change some more water; try to get new testers; order some Prazi/Parasite Clear tabs online. Keep us posted.
  5. Hello Kathleen. So sorry your fish has passed. Thank you also to Daryl for jumping in and explaining everything in such detail. I'll try to answer all your Q's as best I can and maybe Daryl will drop back in for confirmation - she has long standing experience with all of this. First, the salt dip: The way I dose is to add 1/2 cup salt per gallon of tank water; I'm not sure if a quarter of a pound works out the same? I wonder if a dip on 4 consecutive days wil not be too caustic. Just for your info - we can get a brand over here called NT Labs which make PP solutions. I wonder if your lfs might carry them or be able to get them for you? If not, I'd be tempted to go with your WP in the Q tub and change it out every day. By tossing all the water and re-filling you are throwing out anything in the water. Your dip will have knocked off most passengers on the slime coat and quite a few from the gills. By keeping your fish in a stable solution of the wormer you will hopefully take out everything on the fish itself. Just one thing to do is to check on your ammonia level - a fish will always purge ammonia from the gills following a salt dip. The tank: You've taken the salt up to 0.4%. You may find that this large step up will affect the beneficial bacteria a little, as they will not have had time to acclimatise - also your filter media became a little dry during the tank strip (it's good to leave it sitting in a bowl/bucket of tank water any other time). But with a little ammonia it should pick up soon. I would not use fish food in place of ammonia, as the level is hard to control and creates bad bacteria as it degrades. I know it sounds gross, but an easy alternative, if you can't get pure ammonia, is to use pee! A child who hasn't drunk caffeine or taken prescription meds is a good donor! We've fishless-cycled a few tanks that way in our time! Test your levels over the next few days to see where you are. The temperature doesn't affect the action of the salt but it does speed up the life-cycle of parasites. Don't worry about asking questions - that's what we're here for PS Oooops Daryl! - went away during writing and didn't see your post! This sounds like an echo.......
  6. It's not that you need to strip down the tank - it's just that if there have been deaths you can't explain, sometimes a completely new, safely-cycled filter removes any possibility of something untoward hidden in the filter (parasites, bacteria etc)That would just be an 'absolute' safeguard. On the other hand a new batch of Wormer Plus would also be good for removing any possible fluke presence. But don't just do one dose - do several to be sure of catching all life stages. How long has your WP been open now?
  7. Yes, I can see that at least one of the streaks is orange marking, but it looks from the photo as if others are blood red streaks rather than pigment. Can you look and confirm if that is right? I cannot see closely enough from the picture. A reptile vet would be a good bet - hope you can still find her
  8. Oh dear - yes the C shape is sometimes called the 'death curve' - I'm so sorry and really, like you, a little baffled by the cause. You might want to put him out of his misery rather than just wait. 10 drops of clove oil in a small comtainer of water is enough for a fish @ 2 inches - more for a larger fish. My water parameters are always good - PH usually between 7.4 and 7.6. Ammonia always zero, Nitrite always zero and Nitrate is always under 5ppm. I use Stress coat water conditioner when doing my water changes. I also have 2 filters, one internal and one external. My test kits are only about 2 months old. Would I need to test anything else in the water? I can see you are very attentive and do all the right things, so this is upsetting. Sometimes flukes can be very tenacious and often when there is a history of deaths between 6 months and a year, flukes can be the hidden cause. They weaken the fish over time and open them to opportunistic bacteria. Because of their amazing life cycle, their survival capacity is remarkable. Some of our very experienced members swear that they still find flukes after several treaments. Just another thought - the wormer plus becomes ineffective after about 3 months of opening, so it is possibe that if you originally did only a single treatment, there could have been survivors by the time the subsequent dose had already lost its power. So as far as your other fish are concerned, it may be worth growing a completely new cycle and stripping down your existing tank once it is ready. You can grow the bacteria in an aerated tub by putting media and ammonia into the water - instructions on fishless cycling are on the main options bar. Once you have a mature colony, you can remove the fish, disinfect the whole tank, toss your existing media and replace it with the new colony. Then run 2 0r 3 doses of new Wormer Plus just to be certain there are no survivors brought back in on the fish. I will ask Koko to look at this thread, however, in case there is anything in the main water source which could be a cause. Again I'm so sorry about your fish.
  9. Great, but get that nitrite down - 1ppm is too high. A 20% w/c will only have reduced it to 0.80ppm. You don't want gill damage.
  10. How interesting! I'm going to read up about collodial silver and white pigmentation. I have never heard of that before. Wonderful pictures, Beanie, btw.
  11. Oh! PRAZI! Well, that's great. Re-dose after 3 days. But get on to those testers - it won't be safe to keep the tank unchangd for 3 days unless we're certain the water is ammonia free.
  12. Just my two cents...but blood like splotches on fins and body can mean hemorrhagic septicemia. Yes, but with a cycling tank and a new fish one should be ruling out water and parasites before jumping to bac infections. the ammonia test always comes out to 0ppm, even after two weeks of testing every day it was still at 0ppm. honestly I don't really trust the kit, after such a time you'd think something would show. I've read the booklet several times and I am pretty confident that I am doing it right. Which kit is this? Ammonia should definitely be showing up after 2 weeks in an uncycled tank! When a new fish is added it will increase the ammonia load even more. If the kit is dodgey this all might all be down to ammonia. You definitely need to let us know about your testers. I'll see if I could can find any alternative meds for the two, because my lfs will most likely not have any of those medicines. Don't get alternative meds advised by an lfs - it's better to order what I've suggested online if they're not available in store. I'll send links if necessary, but get some decent testers before we go any further. When was the last water change and how much did you take out? I would start by doing a 75% change-out and see if there is any improvement.
  13. OK - if new testers show good results we can proceed from there. But what is Priza? I'm not familiar with it. Who makes it and what exactly is it? Let me know.........
  14. Oh dear - I'm so sorry. We are at such a disadvantage over here when it comes to meds that I can't think what else to suggest. If we were in the State there would be so many mre options. In case we've missed anything....... *Which testers are you using? Are they strips or drops? I've just been helping someone else who thought their fish had a bac infection; we're starting to wonder it's been the water all along and the test strips are old and not reading the true results. *Did you remember to add dechlorinator? Which one are you using? *Was today's change water reasonably well temperature matched? *How about your substrate? Do you have gravel? If so, do you vacuum it well. If gravel is dirty and holding a lot of crud it can be stirred up by incoming water which will make a fish feel off. I'm just trying to think of anything we may have overlooked. To be honest, now that the fish has started to produce normal poo again, I'm thinking it's symptoms sound more like flukes or even water problems. Your WP should have sorted out any parasites, so water is the last thing to double-check. I wish I could be more helpful.
  15. Yup. I agree with what the others say. Finish the course now its started and run Prazi to be safe. But as a matter of importance I would really urge you to get ammonia and nitrite dropper testers to be certain of the water quality - how old are those strips, hun? As I said before, they can be way off and giving you the OK even when things have gone awry. I have a strong feeling that your water may not be ammonia and nitrite free. Koko also had the impression the fish may have suffered water poisoning. We already established that your zeolite filter would have dumped it's ammonia back into the tank as you'd been adding salt, too. So, if the strips read zero ammonia even then, I would doubt their effectiveness. In addition to a possible ammonia presence there was also EM in there which would have added to the general toxicity. I think perhaps your hub assumed her upside down state was due to a swimbladder infection (rather than a water problem) and reached for the AntiB's as a wrong turn. Easy to do when one is not experienced in diagnosis. The hospital tank does not have any carbon, just a sponge filter in the bottom. If this was cycled by the two small fish then I would be expecting an ammonia spike - another reason to double check your test results. Incidently the only 'OK' score for ammonia is zero - just to be absolutley clear. She's a lovely fish - I really hope we can help turn her around.
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