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Trinket

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Everything posted by Trinket

  1. Any and all antibiotics should start to work within 24 hours. The fish should show signs of improvement or at least not worse within that time frame. If the fishes condition deteriorates in any way- they need out. Tetracylines need to be checked for expiry date. Beyond expiry date they are dangerous. Maracyn 2 must be used in the dark. It is a synthetic tetracyline, not an antibiotic that works well in unstable pH.
  2. Hun, if a medication is not working and the fish is getting worse you need to get the meds out via a large water change asap Please check your pH. Sugar coating is a sign of crashing pH
  3. I'm with Hidr. Flakes are fine for tropicals and single tail fish but not the best choice for round bodied fancy fish IMO. I don't really like the idea of coloring in food for fish either lol. So many of those artificial colorings are actually very toxic. Doesn't stop me eating cupcakes however
  4. Can you test your pH hun? Looks like it may have crashed
  5. Sounds like you are on track again Kayla. I really think things will be okay. Let's just keep a watch on how the white spot develops and if any strange behavior occurs with anyone. So far that has not been the case, despite cycle bump and all. Jumpstart can be fed alongside a little of another ( your choice,peas etc) but works best when a good continued flow is fed or the fish get enough of it every day anyway
  6. Very upsetting. It looks like his swimbladder has almost completely ceased functioning. Although incredible turnarounds do happen with fish. The curved shape that you saw is not a good sign however Can you see if his gills look okay? Are they a normal color? Is he eating anything at all?
  7. Oh no!!!!!! I'm so very sorry!!!
  8. Hi again Summer. I am so sorry he is bad again and flipped on his side. I was just wondering if your cycle may have crashed. Did you use the Lifegaurd meds in the main tank? Are your nitrates still at zero as that would indicate a crash
  9. Yes! Really!!!!!!!What a day. Gee, I wonder why? I KNOW!! What is that all about? Well it may just be that I can see them clearly..the GW was sooo thick before Or maybe it was that half bag of SakiHikari they monched down while I was away . Who knows. I'm just glad to see them up and about and begging again. They may even get fed tomorrow now we are back on the map
  10. Very cool. That's an impressive morph from baby to adult
  11. I think we are going to be okay . I did another 100% (back to back 25% x 4) just to clear the floating algae pieces and diatoms. The two new filters are working like a dream...really silent compared to the older filters in fact. Fish, incredibly look even fatter and perkier than ever. Water is CLEAR and smells oh so much better Ammonia zero. Nitrites zero. Nitrates showing a trace after the 100%...pH still up at 8, bless you coral substrate.........I think we are going to be okay Thanks guys!!!! Main panic alert over. Stay tuned...or don't ..depending on your nervous disposition and stress threshold level
  12. Well thanks guys. But we are really not out of the woods yet here. I have spent all day on and off posting here, cleaning filters and have a burned out engine/pump on the overhead filter and a completely non functioning eheim cannister now. I don;t know how half a packet of food can do this in a week but i think the motor was broken early on and the cycle was starting to go way before I got home This is so horrible The fish seem absolutely fine. Floating in a mass of debris and gunk as the filters spat so much out. Evidently I had been lax with cleaning filterpipes My GW has gone. I may be looking at starting up squeaky clean from scratch. My biggest fear is pH crash without the bbs/coral working. Just went out and bought 2 new filters, one HOB and one overhead kabuki. 15 x GPH let's see if i can kick start this tonight. Just so exhausting all this stress. I have had it (for now) with cannister filters!!! Especially the size(Japanese kabuki) I have which involves serious arm work out to pump start. Horrible fish day. Thank Goodness my fish are swimming around fine so far. A second 100% w/c coming up now.
  13. Yep!!! It was the gases affecting his swim bladder function. That is great news. I think you will find they make a complete recovery if you can keep on top of the gravel vacuuming and removal of gases You can also look at reducing the gravel by half slowly, over a few weeks to make maintenance easier
  14. Yes. The eye looks to have been attacked. I'm glad you could order the kit. A Meth Blue/salt short bath/dip would help this heal if you are still worried and still see blood! Good job anyway !!! I will move this to diagnosis for farther discussion as it's no longer an emergency
  15. I hear your cannister woes!!! And agree.. Did your cannister come with a black carbon filter pad thingy at the bottom. These expire and need to be chucked or they wlll release back ammonia. Just one thought. They are a devil to manage. I have just about thrown mine out the window on several occasions although when working well they have to be the very best!!!!! Keep at it. Read the manual over and over. It could be one small detail like a pipe back to front or something.. Meanwhile and until you can get to the bottom of the filter issues you could go back to HOB, they are so simple and easy -add lots of oxygen- and the more filtration the better always!
  16. uh huh..I have heard that works I remember someone somewhere explaining how to do that, run the tubing so it isn't too visible.
  17. Sounds like a very stressed poop You are doing what you can for her, keep us posted and hang in there with the meds course and extra oxygen/splash
  18. Yeah it really is a bummer. I know they like a place to hide. All is not lost however. You can keep it if you can lift it every few days to release trapped gases
  19. I'm glad you are getting good help. Do keep an eye on your pH while medicating. 6.8 from the tap is super low and any meds added to the water can plunge it down farther. Are you using Maracyn alone or did you add Maracyn 2 as well? Remember Maracyn 2 is an oxidant so will only be effective in the dark(the tank would need to be covered) For all meds you will need to add extra oxygen if you can, make more splash as oxygen is depleted with these meds. I am so sorry your fish is so sick. All fingers crossed!!
  20. Yes fine grain sea salt is fine! I always use sea salt. You can re salt to 0.1%. It's enough Edit: I would seriously remove the plastic plants for ever. the ornament maybe okay as long as its not hollow and trapping bacteria which ferment without oxygen (and then make gas).
  21. That's an idea. And if you can give the gravel a good thorough clean tomorrow removing both fish, you will rid the tank of the huge pile up of gases which are quite probably making him floaty. Fishes swimbladders are so teeny weeny and they are responsible for a fishes balance. They work like a pump taking in gases and releasing them. When there are too many of the wrong kinds of gases in the water the swimbladder cannot function. If you have plastic plants I suggest removing those too as they can also release PCBs which are also gases. I think that may be all you need do.
  22. I feel fairly confident this is not something that is highly infectious and that the benefits of a larger space might outweigh any risks. Your description of the white area does not ring bells with what I have seen under a lens of a typical wart however. I am not 100% on this. It could be a wart that has been scraped or it could be a dermal reaction to an allergen The salt would help a little with both. The fact he is behaving so well and nobody else is suffering seems to me to be an indication that this is not something contagious. The frayed fins on your other fish could be from stress, new fish introduced OR one other thing* I will get to, in a minute. This is what I would do. 1.Finish the medigold feed to 10 days no more. These fish are small, it's enough. 2.Take the salt down slowly. One day at 0.2% and the next at 0.1%. 3.*Take out all the plastic plants. They leech PCBS and are a big stressor for some fish. I have seen these fungus looking growths on fish in tanks with plastic plants before many, many times. Post back after that with updates of how all the fish are . If none are any worse I would transfer them. You are going to transfer this media and filter system yes?
  23. Hi Summer4. I'm sorry about your moor! Just checking in with some thoughts, even though Alex is looking after you so well. I think it's still difficult to give a definite diagnosis as one fish is fine yes? But I would agree with Alex's theory of slimecoat thickening for some reason. Aside from external parasites which also produces this response, one reason can be that the fish is trying to protect himself from gases in the water that he is having trouble osmoting. When you moved him to a bowl the water there was a temporary relief from the main tank gases. Some fish are more sensitive than others and have weaker swimbladders (where the gases are diffused). I think it might be an idea to remove both fish and their bubble wand to a rubbermaid or other container for 30 mins using the water in the tank now so as not to shock...and do a big gravel vaccuum. A thorough swirling and churn up to release toxins into the water column.The gravel produces these gases in a process called sulfate reduction. It can cause all these symptoms. Just to explain this, the anaerobic bacs living deep under the gravel breathe/respirate gases like nitrates, sulfate, and carbon dioxide. These are the gases that collect under all (deeper than 2cm) gravel. Anaerobic bacteria lack the enzyme to convert oxygen into a viable form so hate the higher level, oxygenated places. So, when we disturb the gravel these gases that they are using are released back into the aquarium. This is one possibility for gravel disturbance followed by sudden floaty fish. So cleaning deep gravel is best done with the fish removed. The other thing that can happen is that the gravel dwelling bacteria's supply of gas nutrients is used up. At this time you will smell a rotten egg smell in the tank which is the true and full sulfate reduction process- a sort of decomposition or fermentation of the bacteria. There can even be a sprinkling of black dust visible at this point. It would also be a good starting point to move from if medication has to be the the next step since meds are most effective in low organics and higher oxygen levels.
  24. Thanks Alex! Yes ~ thought that might be the case as I have seen this on our pond fish. The interesting thing is the incubation period can be weeks or even months. There is very little you can do for them and antibiotics tend to make them quite angry and worse. The salt is good and a topical wont hurt, acriflavin ointment for example. It would be good if Kayla could get a magnifying lens to the spot and see what the surface looks like just to confirm exactly what kind of surface the spot has. Bubbly, cauliflower like, smooth, several lumps joined etc.Not fuzzy I am assuming now.The water must be quite good as these growths often change color fast, pick up algae etc in heavily organic water and this one is still exceptionally white.
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