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Tosakin in Oz

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Posts posted by Tosakin in Oz

  1. Hey nakedsnake, I'm in St Kilda, I'd be happy to rehome him if you like, I've got a 7 foot tank (approx 800 litres if you include the volume of the filters.) and I've only got 5 fish in there, it's understocked at the moment coz I need low maintainence due to also having to care for a human baby but there's plenty of room for your little guy if you like. I'm having trouble getting my computer to recognise my camera at the moment and I'm a bit too much of a technophobe to work out what's going on so I can't show you a recent image of my tank, but I can describe what I've got, 7x2x2ft tank, 3 external 1200lph aquaone cannisters and a fluval 3 internal filter (this may be considered underfiltered, but the fact that I'm so understocked this has never been an issue), 200wtt heater that gets put on over winter, UV sterilizer (cant remember brand) it's partially barebottomed with some blue stricta and several anubias growing over a whole pile of petrified wood, I've been keeping fish since I can remember, probably from about 7yrs onwards, started with goldies, 'progressed' to tropical, and then went back to keeping fancy goldfish.

    I'm a stay at home mum at the moment so I can come and pick him up if you like, let me know if your interested.

  2. but all i did was open a tank full of worms!!!

    :tomuch: HH, that cracked me up!

    -Not sure it's the same thing, but I often found in the driftwood I kept in with my trops (way back when) that the driftwood tended to have white fluffy blooms of 'stuff', -especially when I first put it in the tank, I did a bit of asking around some said that it was just a small fungal bloom, a natural part of the break-down of the driftwood and no threat to healthy fish, and it's actually quite nutritious and your plec will thrive on it! -after a while your pleco shoud keep the white fluff nicely mown, I'm not sure about the sap stuff though :unsure:

    Acupunk, with hard alkaline water, driftwood would be the one thing I'd suggest as a natural way to soften and acidify your water. -One thing about it though, for a long time your wood will continue to leach tannins, -it's an aesthetic that can grow on you, especially if you have a natural layout of your tank to begin with, but if you hate the tannin in the water you can put a packet of "biochem-zorb" in your filter, this resin adsorbs the tannins clearing and polishing the water, it can last up to about 2 months from memory (haven't kept trops for a while now!) but once it's exhausted the water will turn tea coloured again.

    hope this helps, -don't be purturbed by fuzz at the start, it might take a month or two for it to settle down, but with bristles they'll make short work of it! :D

  3. Thanks Mads! :D

    No probs, there's been a couple of thumbs up behind the scenes, but we'll have to wait to hear back from koko..

    Marie, -Thanks for the suggestion re corel, I'll look into it, I really miss being able to do stuff with my pics. I gotta say I love your tri coloured oranda, s/he is a stunner, a real flirt with the camera too! some really nice art there! :D

  4. Hey Liz, what sorta medical background? u a doc/nurse/allied/research? I'm (well, was, before being a stay-at-home mum) a hospital histology/mortuary scientist. :) Nice to see a few medically minded people on the board!

  5. the parasites will not build an immunity to it as with antibiotics. There are many of us keepers who add aquarium salt to our tanks just as a preventative measure. (Of course you wouldn't dose to the same salinity when using it preventatively than when using it to treat parasites.)

    Unfortunately there are some strains of parasites that have become more tolerant to salt over a long time, but this in the bigger scheme of things, at breeding factories etc, -I'm personally doubtful that small additions of salt to a home aquarium is going to breed super parasites like antibiotic resistant strains of bacteria, but some hobbyists maintain this and I am not going to disagree as there is evidence this happens in the largescale end of the business, it's a bit of a grey area. I think it mostly depends on what your tap water is like in your area, some areas have very hard water, in this case I don't see any reason to maintain conditioning salts in the water as the water already has a high cconcentration of dissolved salts already, I live in an area where the water is EXTREMELY soft, and if I don't add conditioning salts my water is too soft for goldfish to thrive. I guess it comes down to a balance, -how much more robust is your fish going to be with the addition of salt, and able to have more immunity to parasites, as to how strong will your fish be to survive high levels of salt if needed for treating for parasites. In the wild Bettas are found in drying muddy ponds where the salt levels can rise dramatically, I'm not an expert with bettas, but from their habitat I'm sure they're quite hardy when it comes to additions of salt if needed for treatment. (just my 2c.. :unsure: )

  6. yes, you will remove some of their slime coat, -if you're wanting to minimise the stress on your fish, you could probably do with a big water change (80%), your nitrates are on the high side of acceptable, and if you're going to put your fish through a stressful situation it's best to get the nitrates down to about 5ppm (my personal experience is that although it is stated that up 40ppm nitrates is not poisonous, the goldies I've kept over the years always fare better in water with 5-10ppm nitrates. some fish do rather poorly with high levels of nitrate)

    You can buy products that are like an artificial slime coat, usually containing aloevera, this is fine if the fish is healthy, but many in the hobby don't like these products because the aloevera coats the gills also, possibly impairing gas exchange. My personal choice if you were to use any product would to use Melafix for 7 days after handling your fish, -this is a mild antibacterial agent that can expediate healing in wounds, and also knocks the head on the bacteria in the water that your fish's slime coat is protecting it from.

  7. to answer your question about having an extra cycled tank, -A good way to doing this is to have a second filter set up on your tank (you can't over filter your tank!), you can get a 10 gal bucket or 'rubbermaid' tote box that you can dedicate to fish things and then bring it out when needed for quarrantine procedures. (I have a tote box that I use to store all my goldfish paraphenalia in and when I need the box I empty all my gear into plastic bags for the duration of QT being set up) when you need to set up your QT all you need to do is transfer some of your tank water and your extra filter for an instant cycle! :)

    Glad to hear your fish pulled through the night, lets hope it makes it to the time you get your meds.

  8. -If you need help with diagnosing your goldfish please post in the emergency/disease/diagnosis forum. A healthy fish should not be affected/killed by formula food, there is something else going on in your tank. -Death by food is usually poor nutrition from cheap fish flake/pellet and this occurs over a period of years. -as for your question about your fish finding your gel food, -if you're worried taht they are not going to sniff out the food, consider adding fresh minced garlic to your mix, garlic is a natural food attractant (they'll smell it in the water!) and also, it's a great immune booster for your fish to boot! :)

  9. I'm sorry you have found our help frustrating, we have helped you to the best of our abilities. Yes it is frustrating to have to wait while detective work is done to determine what is going on with your fish, it is difficult for us to work out what is going on when we don't have all the information we need about your tank details. You say that you started posting a week ago, the first post in this topic was two days ago? I can only go by what you have stated in your first post on this thread, -If you have other posts up about your sick fish, I suggest you stick to posting on one thread only so that if someone comes along to help you they can get the full story.

    We have now suggested you start treating for flukes, -this is the best suggestion we can give you over the internet from the information you have given us, as we are not actually present, cannot see your fish, do microscopy on skin/gill scrapes etc. this still mightn't be the right suggestion, but it is the best we can do as a service over the internet.

    You must understand that we can only help you on the information you give us. and I think a one day turn-around with a possible diagnosis on one thread is pretty good considering we are all volunteers. We are here to help you but we cannot solve your fishes problems for you.

    I'm sorry to hear that you're thinking on giving up on goldfish because of this. Please keep us up to date with your fish's details, how you're medicating them, we will try and help to the best of our abilities. :(

    You mentioned that one of your fish bottom sits and eats poorly when he's alone, -Does he stop bottom sitting and eats normally when there are other fish in the tank? -I have never known a healthy goldfish bottom-sit and not eat. I really think there is something going on in your tank, but I am unable to say Acupunk mentioned that there's a whole lot of things going on with your situation that I don't know about, pH problems, ammonia burns, none of this has been mentioned in this thread, or even alluded to until now. There could be a multitude of things going on with your fish, but if you have had ammonia and cycle problems, this could be the long term effects of your fish being kept in toxic water. -Yes the water might be perfect now, but if the fish have been kept in less than ideal conditions previously then they are still being affected from that time of being kept in poor water. As I don't know the whole picture, I can only guess.

  10. Vu, I'm sorry to hear Spotty passed, I know you tried your best, but really, dropsy is the end-stage of bacterial infection, it really is a losing battle once your fish starts to dropsy, don't take it out on yourself, you gave Spotty the best life you could. may he RIP. Nice little casket you made him.

  11. Hey Liz, congratulations on joining the crazy world of goldfish keeping. I know you're a busy person and it's going to take you time to get round to reading the board, so I'll direct you to a page on the Nitrogen cycle, this is the most important thing you need to know about fish keeping, as this keeps the water habitable for your fish...

    Link to cycle...

    you need to keep the ammonia level as close to zero as it is really toxic for your fish, -this is going to be ~extremely~ hard while you've got four in a 10gal tank, as the ammonia levels rise a lot faster in a smaller body of water (it will get easier to manage when your bigger tank comes in). -this might involve you doing 80% water changes every day while your tank is uncycled, but let your test kit help you decide how much water you need to change (doing a 50% water change will half the amount of ammonia, but that mightn't be enough) I know it is said that you shouldn't change more than 25% at one go because it is stressful for your fish, but it's the lesser of two evils, any ammonia that is registerable on your kit is more stressful than having a 100% waterchange.

    A little about your filter, although it's good at clearing visible waste from the water, that is not the most important function of your filter, -it is a surface area for your beneficial bacteria to grow on (that's the stuff that converts ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, completing the 'cycle') so when you're cleaning your filter media (the sponge inside your filter) just rinse it through with some of your old tank water, -don't wash it under tap water, the bacteria that grows on your sponge is very susceptible to the chlorine in your tap water and you will 'kill' your cycle and your tank will always be uncycled, with a constant battle with ammonia.

    Also, you will need a larger filter, the capacity for that one is too small for your tank especially as it is so overcrowded, it is just not large enough even when your tank is cycled to handle the amount of ammonia produced by four goldfish. -What I suggest is when you can, purchase another larger filter, on this board we suggest a turnover rate of 10X the volume of your tank (if you have a 35 gal tank then your filter will need to turn over 350 gallons an hour) but this is for a regular stocked tank, if your tank is overcrowded then the higher the better. -Not that your little filter will have gone to waste, -you can run two filters on one tank, and then if you need to quarantine one of your fish you will have a fully 'cycled' filter you can transfer the the quarantine tank for an instant cycle!

    -Is there any reason why you need to use bottled water to change your tank in your area? -I wont overload you with info in one post, but unless you have particularly bad water in your area, tap water can actually be better for your fish, spring water is 'too pure', -goldfish need additives/salts to water to make it habitable and safe.

  12. Vu, I'm sorry to hear about your fish, but as i mentioned, once a fish is displaying dropsy this means that it's kidneys are not functioning correctly (organ failure). Because the fish kidney's cannot excrete water (one of their main functions) from the fishes body, the water is pushed into all of the fish's tissues, severely disrupting all organ functions. The scales 'pinecone' because of the oedematous (fluid filled) skin tissue. Now if your fish is treated quickly then the damage can be minimized but by the time the skin has started to visibly swell a lot of serious damage will already have occurred within the internal organs of your fish. -If your fish does pull through this damage will most likely affect your fish for the rest of its life, it will always be poorly and fare worst with any infection going round or any negative change to it's water quality (I found that keeping nitrates to less that 5ppm kept my fish going without kidney disfunction/return of dropsy)..

  13. Fantastic work there! I love working on pics to produce works of art, that's a lovely shot, and I love what you've done with it. Since I've got this new Mac I haven't been able to find a copy of photoshop that I can use and the cost price of buying the program is prohibitive for me at this time.. :( I miss messing around with my pics... ( I was always tinkering with double chins/bags under the eyes/blotches in all my pics... :rolleyes: )

    Oh, and btw, Rach, I'll suggest it on the mod board re Art section... ;)

  14. I was going to ask the same thing as Pixie, -has your fish been 'yawning' more often recently, or flashing? Just wondering, it could be something that was stirred up from the gravel, but also it could be a parasite or bacteria that was already in your system that was lying dormant and is starting to multiply now the spring weather (I'm sorry, I'm making the assumption that you're in America or somewhere where it is spring, apologies if this isn't the case) is coming..

  15. (nice analogy by the way... I used to be a smoker).

    lol, me too, until I started IVF! -you know what I mean about it taking a fair chunk of time for your lungs to 'recover' then ;)

    I had another look at your vid towards the end and I see what you mean, so does your fish do that a lot? it could be that your fish is having trouble keeping balance because of it's extreme compression, as Trinket was mentioning, these fish can have life-long troubles with buoyancy due to their inbred shortened bodies, as they get older and larger, this problem can get worse. You also mentioned intermittent stringy poo, if your fish is also produing food coloured poo then it's not too bad, if your fish only produces stringy white poo this can be indicative of a bacterial infection. poo with bubbles just means that your fish has swallowed air. (not surprising eh?) Your fish has quite a large abdomen, this could also mean that your fish is female laden with eggs (if you look at your fish from above, is the swelling always only on one side?).

    If your fish is laden with eggs, you could try to encourage her to release them by mimicking spring weather (even more so!) conditions, if you can imagine in the wild, as well as the weather getting warm, the snow is melting and leaking fresh water into the lakes and ponds inwhich these fish would live, so you can try doing huge water changes over a couple of days (like up to 80% each change that's pH and temperature matched to your tanks conditions) and see if this helps her release eggs (even if this isn't the case, it certainly won't hurt your fish to have a good couple of large waterchanges!)

    See how your aearator goes in alleviating the gasping prob over the next couple of days.

    Good luck!

  16. -if you can get your housemate to feed your birds and rats, get them to feed your fish as well. a lot of people on this board get zip lock bags and put the right amount for each day in a separate zip lock bag so your carer doesn't over feed. for such a small fish, a week is a pretty long time, -even if they come and visit once in the middle of the week, your fish should be fine for a few days without food.

    If you can twist your housemates arm especially to check on your fish, if you've got a sick one that may cark it over the week your away you don't want it rotting and toxing water, killing your remaining goldy!

    If you're going away, and your fish dies before then, I'd suggest to wait until you came back before getting a third goldie, just my 2c. Hope things work out for you and you have a good trip away!

  17. cabomba is a great food for goldies, -riccia is great, but duckweed is better, and let me assure you, goldies eat it with relish, it will not take over your tank, I have never been able to propagate duckweed when there have been goldfish in my tank! I can understand it would have been annoying when you kept oscars, but they dont eat duckweed. I have to BUY duckweed on a regular basis because I cant maintain a supply.. -Salvinia will grow, but goldfish wont eat that, and it will just take over your tank(like duckweed in an oscar tank) not sure what pellia is thought it was like a liverwort that grows on land, but I could be mistaking that for something else, (I'm not really a botanist)

    I'm not sure about your plants, I'm guessing that if bolbitis is a true fern then it'll have some noxious tasting compound in it that will deter your goldies from eating it, pretty much, the rule is if it's soft enough to rip off, then goldies will eat it, water clover mightn't do so well with your fish. it's best to go with things like your java fern, java moss, and anubias plants. I've also had a lot of luck with blue stricta, it's got softish leaves, so the goldies will have a go at them occasionally, but they're not that interested in the stuff, and that's pretty cheap.

    I'd reconsider having sand at the bottom of your tank, I used to have sand, and as you well know it's a pain to keep clean, I like your idea about using slate as a 'substrate', but I'd be worried about anaerobic bacteria growing under the slate in the stagnant sand, this could eventually be pretty dangerous for your fish. -maybe you could take out your sand and just leave the slate, I do like the look of the slate! -if you wanted to vary it you could put some larger river stones over the slate cracks to mask the bare bottom if you don't like that aesthetic.. I love the natural look of your set up with java ferns tied to driftwood.

    Goldfish aren't sensitive to strong lights, -as long as they get a period of darkness where they can sleep they're fine with bright light, the more light the beeter they'll look too! as the more 'sunlight' the better their colors will stay (their colours are a bit like a tan, they will often fade/lose their black if they don't get enough UV)

  18. Just to add to Trinket's info, dropsy being the final stage of many diseases is not a disease itself, but an indication of organ failure, -if your fish pulls through this, it'll always be the weakest fish as it has damaged kidneys, and any small amount of stress will often cause recurring bouts of dropsy that you'll have to treat. Once a fish has recovered from dropsy, it's best to keep it separate from other fish and to treat it with PERFECT conditions for the rest of it's days (a bit like a bubble boy).. I had a fish that I'd nursed back from dropsy three times over a 12 month period, she was fine by herself, but when my own human baby came along, we no longer had the room (or the time) to keep the fish's own separate tank, and she had to fend for herself in the main tank, sadly she succumbed to dropsy again and passed within weeks of being reintroduced...

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