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Tosakin in Oz

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Everything posted by Tosakin in Oz

  1. Hi Nakedsnake, just so you don't hate me, I'm really sorry for saying I could take your fish on, but at this point in time I just I can't.. I'm sorry to jerk you round on all this. I hope you find a home for your little one. cheers. Mads.
  2. Hey nakedsnake, I'm in St Kilda, I'd be happy to rehome him if you like, I've got a 7 foot tank (approx 800 litres if you include the volume of the filters.) and I've only got 5 fish in there, it's understocked at the moment coz I need low maintainence due to also having to care for a human baby but there's plenty of room for your little guy if you like. I'm having trouble getting my computer to recognise my camera at the moment and I'm a bit too much of a technophobe to work out what's going on so I can't show you a recent image of my tank, but I can describe what I've got, 7x2x2ft tank, 3 external 1200lph aquaone cannisters and a fluval 3 internal filter (this may be considered underfiltered, but the fact that I'm so understocked this has never been an issue), 200wtt heater that gets put on over winter, UV sterilizer (cant remember brand) it's partially barebottomed with some blue stricta and several anubias growing over a whole pile of petrified wood, I've been keeping fish since I can remember, probably from about 7yrs onwards, started with goldies, 'progressed' to tropical, and then went back to keeping fancy goldfish. I'm a stay at home mum at the moment so I can come and pick him up if you like, let me know if your interested.
  3. I love that second pic, there's something really aesthetic about the curved lines of your fish the compact round wen accents the curve of the back and belly and edge of tail fin... nice! I haven't seen a fish that's made me drool like that for quite a while!
  4. Tosakin in Oz


    Hey Liz, what sorta medical background? u a doc/nurse/allied/research? I'm (well, was, before being a stay-at-home mum) a hospital histology/mortuary scientist. Nice to see a few medically minded people on the board!
  5. Tosakin in Oz


    Unfortunately there are some strains of parasites that have become more tolerant to salt over a long time, but this in the bigger scheme of things, at breeding factories etc, -I'm personally doubtful that small additions of salt to a home aquarium is going to breed super parasites like antibiotic resistant strains of bacteria, but some hobbyists maintain this and I am not going to disagree as there is evidence this happens in the largescale end of the business, it's a bit of a grey area. I think it mostly depends on what your tap water is like in your area, some areas have very hard water, in this case I don't see any reason to maintain conditioning salts in the water as the water already has a high cconcentration of dissolved salts already, I live in an area where the water is EXTREMELY soft, and if I don't add conditioning salts my water is too soft for goldfish to thrive. I guess it comes down to a balance, -how much more robust is your fish going to be with the addition of salt, and able to have more immunity to parasites, as to how strong will your fish be to survive high levels of salt if needed for treating for parasites. In the wild Bettas are found in drying muddy ponds where the salt levels can rise dramatically, I'm not an expert with bettas, but from their habitat I'm sure they're quite hardy when it comes to additions of salt if needed for treatment. (just my 2c.. )
  6. yes, you will remove some of their slime coat, -if you're wanting to minimise the stress on your fish, you could probably do with a big water change (80%), your nitrates are on the high side of acceptable, and if you're going to put your fish through a stressful situation it's best to get the nitrates down to about 5ppm (my personal experience is that although it is stated that up 40ppm nitrates is not poisonous, the goldies I've kept over the years always fare better in water with 5-10ppm nitrates. some fish do rather poorly with high levels of nitrate) You can buy products that are like an artificial slime coat, usually containing aloevera, this is fine if the fish is healthy, but many in the hobby don't like these products because the aloevera coats the gills also, possibly impairing gas exchange. My personal choice if you were to use any product would to use Melafix for 7 days after handling your fish, -this is a mild antibacterial agent that can expediate healing in wounds, and also knocks the head on the bacteria in the water that your fish's slime coat is protecting it from.
  7. to answer your question about having an extra cycled tank, -A good way to doing this is to have a second filter set up on your tank (you can't over filter your tank!), you can get a 10 gal bucket or 'rubbermaid' tote box that you can dedicate to fish things and then bring it out when needed for quarrantine procedures. (I have a tote box that I use to store all my goldfish paraphenalia in and when I need the box I empty all my gear into plastic bags for the duration of QT being set up) when you need to set up your QT all you need to do is transfer some of your tank water and your extra filter for an instant cycle! Glad to hear your fish pulled through the night, lets hope it makes it to the time you get your meds.
  8. -If you need help with diagnosing your goldfish please post in the emergency/disease/diagnosis forum. A healthy fish should not be affected/killed by formula food, there is something else going on in your tank. -Death by food is usually poor nutrition from cheap fish flake/pellet and this occurs over a period of years. -as for your question about your fish finding your gel food, -if you're worried taht they are not going to sniff out the food, consider adding fresh minced garlic to your mix, garlic is a natural food attractant (they'll smell it in the water!) and also, it's a great immune booster for your fish to boot!
  9. OOOOOOH! HH! I LOVE it! It's just perfect! The colours are SO me! I'll just get outta my tracky dacks and slip into my slinky outfit! (hope it fits!! )
  10. I'm sorry you have found our help frustrating, we have helped you to the best of our abilities. Yes it is frustrating to have to wait while detective work is done to determine what is going on with your fish, it is difficult for us to work out what is going on when we don't have all the information we need about your tank details. You say that you started posting a week ago, the first post in this topic was two days ago? I can only go by what you have stated in your first post on this thread, -If you have other posts up about your sick fish, I suggest you stick to posting on one thread only so that if someone comes along to help you they can get the full story. We have now suggested you start treating for flukes, -this is the best suggestion we can give you over the internet from the information you have given us, as we are not actually present, cannot see your fish, do microscopy on skin/gill scrapes etc. this still mightn't be the right suggestion, but it is the best we can do as a service over the internet. You must understand that we can only help you on the information you give us. and I think a one day turn-around with a possible diagnosis on one thread is pretty good considering we are all volunteers. We are here to help you but we cannot solve your fishes problems for you. I'm sorry to hear that you're thinking on giving up on goldfish because of this. Please keep us up to date with your fish's details, how you're medicating them, we will try and help to the best of our abilities. You mentioned that one of your fish bottom sits and eats poorly when he's alone, -Does he stop bottom sitting and eats normally when there are other fish in the tank? -I have never known a healthy goldfish bottom-sit and not eat. I really think there is something going on in your tank, but I am unable to say Acupunk mentioned that there's a whole lot of things going on with your situation that I don't know about, pH problems, ammonia burns, none of this has been mentioned in this thread, or even alluded to until now. There could be a multitude of things going on with your fish, but if you have had ammonia and cycle problems, this could be the long term effects of your fish being kept in toxic water. -Yes the water might be perfect now, but if the fish have been kept in less than ideal conditions previously then they are still being affected from that time of being kept in poor water. As I don't know the whole picture, I can only guess.
  11. Can you decribe what the worm like thing looks like for us (other than 'worm-like')?
  12. -lol, me too! -she's so round and rolly polly... I love calicos. Love your tanks set up D. realy nice, clean aesthetics.. nice range of fish.
  13. Hey Liz, congratulations on joining the crazy world of goldfish keeping. I know you're a busy person and it's going to take you time to get round to reading the board, so I'll direct you to a page on the Nitrogen cycle, this is the most important thing you need to know about fish keeping, as this keeps the water habitable for your fish... Link to cycle... you need to keep the ammonia level as close to zero as it is really toxic for your fish, -this is going to be ~extremely~ hard while you've got four in a 10gal tank, as the ammonia levels rise a lot faster in a smaller body of water (it will get easier to manage when your bigger tank comes in). -this might involve you doing 80% water changes every day while your tank is uncycled, but let your test kit help you decide how much water you need to change (doing a 50% water change will half the amount of ammonia, but that mightn't be enough) I know it is said that you shouldn't change more than 25% at one go because it is stressful for your fish, but it's the lesser of two evils, any ammonia that is registerable on your kit is more stressful than having a 100% waterchange. A little about your filter, although it's good at clearing visible waste from the water, that is not the most important function of your filter, -it is a surface area for your beneficial bacteria to grow on (that's the stuff that converts ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate, completing the 'cycle') so when you're cleaning your filter media (the sponge inside your filter) just rinse it through with some of your old tank water, -don't wash it under tap water, the bacteria that grows on your sponge is very susceptible to the chlorine in your tap water and you will 'kill' your cycle and your tank will always be uncycled, with a constant battle with ammonia. Also, you will need a larger filter, the capacity for that one is too small for your tank especially as it is so overcrowded, it is just not large enough even when your tank is cycled to handle the amount of ammonia produced by four goldfish. -What I suggest is when you can, purchase another larger filter, on this board we suggest a turnover rate of 10X the volume of your tank (if you have a 35 gal tank then your filter will need to turn over 350 gallons an hour) but this is for a regular stocked tank, if your tank is overcrowded then the higher the better. -Not that your little filter will have gone to waste, -you can run two filters on one tank, and then if you need to quarantine one of your fish you will have a fully 'cycled' filter you can transfer the the quarantine tank for an instant cycle! -Is there any reason why you need to use bottled water to change your tank in your area? -I wont overload you with info in one post, but unless you have particularly bad water in your area, tap water can actually be better for your fish, spring water is 'too pure', -goldfish need additives/salts to water to make it habitable and safe.
  14. Vu, I'm sorry to hear about your fish, but as i mentioned, once a fish is displaying dropsy this means that it's kidneys are not functioning correctly (organ failure). Because the fish kidney's cannot excrete water (one of their main functions) from the fishes body, the water is pushed into all of the fish's tissues, severely disrupting all organ functions. The scales 'pinecone' because of the oedematous (fluid filled) skin tissue. Now if your fish is treated quickly then the damage can be minimized but by the time the skin has started to visibly swell a lot of serious damage will already have occurred within the internal organs of your fish. -If your fish does pull through this damage will most likely affect your fish for the rest of its life, it will always be poorly and fare worst with any infection going round or any negative change to it's water quality (I found that keeping nitrates to less that 5ppm kept my fish going without kidney disfunction/return of dropsy)..
  15. I was going to ask the same thing as Pixie, -has your fish been 'yawning' more often recently, or flashing? Just wondering, it could be something that was stirred up from the gravel, but also it could be a parasite or bacteria that was already in your system that was lying dormant and is starting to multiply now the spring weather (I'm sorry, I'm making the assumption that you're in America or somewhere where it is spring, apologies if this isn't the case) is coming..
  16. lol, me too, until I started IVF! -you know what I mean about it taking a fair chunk of time for your lungs to 'recover' then I had another look at your vid towards the end and I see what you mean, so does your fish do that a lot? it could be that your fish is having trouble keeping balance because of it's extreme compression, as Trinket was mentioning, these fish can have life-long troubles with buoyancy due to their inbred shortened bodies, as they get older and larger, this problem can get worse. You also mentioned intermittent stringy poo, if your fish is also produing food coloured poo then it's not too bad, if your fish only produces stringy white poo this can be indicative of a bacterial infection. poo with bubbles just means that your fish has swallowed air. (not surprising eh?) Your fish has quite a large abdomen, this could also mean that your fish is female laden with eggs (if you look at your fish from above, is the swelling always only on one side?). If your fish is laden with eggs, you could try to encourage her to release them by mimicking spring weather (even more so!) conditions, if you can imagine in the wild, as well as the weather getting warm, the snow is melting and leaking fresh water into the lakes and ponds inwhich these fish would live, so you can try doing huge water changes over a couple of days (like up to 80% each change that's pH and temperature matched to your tanks conditions) and see if this helps her release eggs (even if this isn't the case, it certainly won't hurt your fish to have a good couple of large waterchanges!) See how your aearator goes in alleviating the gasping prob over the next couple of days. Good luck!
  17. -if you can get your housemate to feed your birds and rats, get them to feed your fish as well. a lot of people on this board get zip lock bags and put the right amount for each day in a separate zip lock bag so your carer doesn't over feed. for such a small fish, a week is a pretty long time, -even if they come and visit once in the middle of the week, your fish should be fine for a few days without food. If you can twist your housemates arm especially to check on your fish, if you've got a sick one that may cark it over the week your away you don't want it rotting and toxing water, killing your remaining goldy! If you're going away, and your fish dies before then, I'd suggest to wait until you came back before getting a third goldie, just my 2c. Hope things work out for you and you have a good trip away!
  18. cabomba is a great food for goldies, -riccia is great, but duckweed is better, and let me assure you, goldies eat it with relish, it will not take over your tank, I have never been able to propagate duckweed when there have been goldfish in my tank! I can understand it would have been annoying when you kept oscars, but they dont eat duckweed. I have to BUY duckweed on a regular basis because I cant maintain a supply.. -Salvinia will grow, but goldfish wont eat that, and it will just take over your tank(like duckweed in an oscar tank) not sure what pellia is thought it was like a liverwort that grows on land, but I could be mistaking that for something else, (I'm not really a botanist) I'm not sure about your plants, I'm guessing that if bolbitis is a true fern then it'll have some noxious tasting compound in it that will deter your goldies from eating it, pretty much, the rule is if it's soft enough to rip off, then goldies will eat it, water clover mightn't do so well with your fish. it's best to go with things like your java fern, java moss, and anubias plants. I've also had a lot of luck with blue stricta, it's got softish leaves, so the goldies will have a go at them occasionally, but they're not that interested in the stuff, and that's pretty cheap. I'd reconsider having sand at the bottom of your tank, I used to have sand, and as you well know it's a pain to keep clean, I like your idea about using slate as a 'substrate', but I'd be worried about anaerobic bacteria growing under the slate in the stagnant sand, this could eventually be pretty dangerous for your fish. -maybe you could take out your sand and just leave the slate, I do like the look of the slate! -if you wanted to vary it you could put some larger river stones over the slate cracks to mask the bare bottom if you don't like that aesthetic.. I love the natural look of your set up with java ferns tied to driftwood. Goldfish aren't sensitive to strong lights, -as long as they get a period of darkness where they can sleep they're fine with bright light, the more light the beeter they'll look too! as the more 'sunlight' the better their colors will stay (their colours are a bit like a tan, they will often fade/lose their black if they don't get enough UV)
  19. Just to add to Trinket's info, dropsy being the final stage of many diseases is not a disease itself, but an indication of organ failure, -if your fish pulls through this, it'll always be the weakest fish as it has damaged kidneys, and any small amount of stress will often cause recurring bouts of dropsy that you'll have to treat. Once a fish has recovered from dropsy, it's best to keep it separate from other fish and to treat it with PERFECT conditions for the rest of it's days (a bit like a bubble boy).. I had a fish that I'd nursed back from dropsy three times over a 12 month period, she was fine by herself, but when my own human baby came along, we no longer had the room (or the time) to keep the fish's own separate tank, and she had to fend for herself in the main tank, sadly she succumbed to dropsy again and passed within weeks of being reintroduced...
  20. In your video, would you describe your fish's motion as frantic yawning, wriggling side to side? I'm just wondering how you would describe how your fish is moving in the video. Yes, it's gulping air, this is usually related to the fact that your fish is not getting enough oxygen, the reason for this could be many things, I've noticed that you do not have an aerator in your tank and the surface of your water is relatively calm, by increasing the surface area of your water through using a bubbler (or even directing your filter outlet towards the surface so it ripples) you will increase gas transfer from the air to the water (thus replenishing the O2 lost from fish's respiration)... another thing that could be reducing the amount of O2 in your tank is heat, how warm is it in your area? the warmer the water the less O2 is dissolved in your water, now if your room/water temp is high I know it's difficult to cool, but an airwand/bubbler can help. So first thing's first, either way I'd suggest investing in an aerator, you're just about to head into summer, and unless your house keeps particularly cool in summer you'll be fighting a battle with dissolved oxygen without it! Another couple of reasons why your fish could be gulping at the surface is that there is some gill damage stopping O2 transfer into your fish's blood system. This could be from flukes, but from your history you mentioned that your nitrites were up around the 2.0 mark for a period of time, -as Pixie mentioned, this is highly toxic for your fish's gills, this will have damaged your fish's gill capacity and will affect your fish for a long period of time, often it will never heal properly (take the analogy of smoking in humans, if someone quits smoking, the damage done during the time the person was a smoker can take years to heal, and if they have a predisposition to emphasema, although they may have quit smoking, years later they may finally succumb to full blown emphasema). In your video, your fish doesn't appear to have skin irritations, it's not flashing, although I'm not ruling out that it isn't just because I don't see it in the vid, it's not displaying what I would call frantically yawning, but perhaps that wasn't caught on the vid either. You mentioned that your fish is losing scales, I'd suggest that that log ornament has some particularly sharp edges on it that if your fish bumps into can lose scales, perhaps it'd do better if you removed the ornament. I don't see any fin clamping that would also be associated with flukes, but I'm not going to rule that out. My opinion is that your fish is still recovering from the damage done during your tank cycle, give it time it may come good, but the damage is already done from that and if your fish is going to succumb, it will. The best thing you can do for your fish with this sort of damage is to keep your water conditions perfect. -Keep your eye out for other behaviour like flashing (fish will hover and then sideroll, crashing into any surface area available in a desperate attempt to alleviate 'itchiness'), that may indicate external parasites. keep us up to date of how your fish is going. Also, a 7 month old fish is usually too young to sex. but if you look in Tips of the Month area you'll find a tip that I posted a year or two ago giving you some help in determining your fish's sex...
  21. Nenn is correct in saying it depends on the reason behind why the fish is swimming in spirals. there are many different causes/infections/diseases that can cause a fish to spiral, the swimming style itself is not going to kill the fish, but there is something that is causing the fish to swim like this and it is hard to say "yes, it'll be fine" or "no, your fish is going to die today, and take all it's tankmates with it while you're on the topic"... One thing I will say, it is not normal, and a fish swimming like this is, as you quite rightly put in your first post, unhealthy. I'm not saying that your fish has a virus, but it is common for fish to display spiral swimming when infected with certain viruses, some more virulent and more deadly than others.. -It is impossible to diagnose a virus without culling the fish and doing pathology on it. I can also tell you that other infections such as bacterial and parasitic infections can also cause a fish to display corkscrew swimming. I am of the opinion that if you have a fish that is corkscrew swimming, it is sick and needs to be diagnosed/treated/isolated from tankmates etc. Time will tell if this inability to swim upright is a consequence of a fatal illness or whether your fish can recover fully or live on in a damaged state of equilibrium. I hate to sound grim, but in my experience once a fish starts corkscrewing, it is not long for this world.
  22. An, they're great pics! the made me laugh.. I was expecting a pic like one someone posted (cant remember, was it you?) a while back of bok choy in the shape of a fish.
  23. check to make sure it's US gallons.
  24. Actually Dan, 38 litre (or 37.85 litres to be more precise) is 10 US gallons, don't know where you got 45 litres from?
  25. -Stress coat has stuff like Aloevera in it, which, although is good for the fish's slime coat (esp when netting fish/transporting etc), but it also coats the fish's gills and can hinder their ability to breath, my personal opinion is that this product is unecessary when conducting your regular waterchanges and can be potentially dangerous if the fish has any form of gill disease. all you really need is a good dechlorinator, and Prime is without a doubt the best product on the market to date to do that. There is a lot of debate about salting/adding trace elements to tap water. -It all depends on where you live and what sort of water you get in your taps, in my area the water is VERY soft, I add aquarium salts every water change as our water is too soft for goldfish, a lot of people have hard enough tap water so as not to have to do this.
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