fantailfan1's post in Fish in C-shape on bottom :( was marked as the answer
Once fish are in a C shape, the likelihood of them recovering is slim. However, if you'd like to treat, I'd treat with the kanaplex along with metronidazole. The kanaplex alone is not broad spectrum enough. Do you have any good local fish stores (locally owned, not big box stores)?
fantailfan1's post in my fish has red spots and red lines was marked as the answer
Just cut a slit in the blue filter floss and dump out the carbon. You don't need to replace it. With the large frequent WCs we do, carbon isn't needed. Some people use it occasionally to help remove meds but it isn't needed on a regular basis.
With your one fish in the 20 gallon, I'd do weekly WCs. I would do at least 50%, depending on your tap and tank water pH. If you'd like more details, test your tap and tank pH before a WC and we can help guide you as to how large of a WC is safe with your parameters.
As far as I'm concerned, bigger is better. I bring my water down until my fish's dorsal fins are sticking out. Keep in mind, there are lots of dissolved solids and other things in the water that we do not test for plus WCs replenish minerals in the water.
So happy to hear the redness is improving!!
fantailfan1's post in Pineconing Ranchu was marked as the answer
So sorry for your loss.
I don't know what the reason is that she passed but it happened so quickly. Just watch for changes in behavior and/or bloating or pineconing. It's hard to say if having the meds on hand would have helped but at least next time (if there is a next time), you'll have them and won't have to wonder.
fantailfan1's post in Small growth/bump on belly of Cheeto w/ pics was marked as the answer
That is a bacterial cyst. You can QT if you'd like. I typically do. It's kind of like a pimple and the white stuff will start to trail off the fish and into the water. I like to have the fish isolated when that happens. I've had fish with this before that didn't need any treatment and some that I salted the tank. You might want to get some canning and pickling salt just in case. Also be aware these tend to come in groups, with the same fish getting a few of them at a time.
Keep us posted.
fantailfan1's post in IS this ICH and how do i treat it. 3 fish have it one does not. ! was marked as the answer
A WC wouldn't hurt to get the ammonia down.
Don't use the ich med. Salt is all you need. Sea salt should be fine. That is a coarser salt, yes? Not fine like regular table salt?
You can raise your salinity in 2 ways: 0.1% every 12 hours 3 times or 0.3% all at once.
To raise salinity 0.1%, you use 1 tsp per gallon. So for your tank, you'd use 60 tsp. (20 TBSP). You can put that in the toe end of a pantyhose if you have any and toss it over the edge of the tank to dissolve. If you don't have any pantyhose, put the salt in some tank water and stir and stir and stir til it's all dissolved then add it to your tank.
If you'd like to add it all at once, add 60 TBSP (either using pantyhose or dissolve it first).
Do you have any substrate or plants in your tank?
70* should be fine for this.
Please remove the carbon from your filter.
fantailfan1's post in Upgrading aquarium question was marked as the answer
Some of the BBs that cycle your water reside in the gravel. You could put your current gravel in mesh bags and add them to your new aquarium, removing a bag or 2 per week from your newly set up tank.
You can move the fish right away as long as you are moving the old filter(s) and/or media along with the fish. Are you adding more fish also?
You don't need to use the old tank water as it is the filter media and to a lesser extent the decor (gravel, plants,etc) that hold the BB that keep your cycle running smoothly.
In any case, whenever you set up a new tank, you'll want to test often for ammonia and nitrite in case there is a bit of a cycle bump.
fantailfan1's post in Nitrobacter in the Aquarium cycle was marked as the answer
1. Once nitrites appear, it takes a while for the beneficial bacteria to be able to handle the conversion of nitrites to nitrates. So, no it will not be instant.
2. They reproduce more quickly in warmer water (higher 70s), a higher pH (8.3 is ideal) and a higher KH (over 100, over 150 is even better). Temperature is easily raised with a heater if needed, if pH is 7.5 or above I wouldn't mess with it, and knowing your KH is important.
3. Your cycle will be complete once your cycle can process 1 ppm of ammonia in a 24 hour period. So add 1 ppm of ammonia, test the water 24 hours later. If ammonia and nitrites are 0 and you have nitrates, you're cycled and can add fish. This typically takes a good 6-8 weeks, sometimes longer.
fantailfan1's post in Starting aquarium cycle was marked as the answer
Aquarium flakes and Cycle are sources of two different things. Aquarium flakes would be a source of ammonia while Cycle is supposedly a source of beneficial bacteria to help you cycle more quickly.
In generall, using pure non sudsing ammonia is an easier way to add ammonia to your tank (it can be a bit tricky to find for some people) and products such as Cycle get mixed reviews. Some people think they really help, others think they are hit or miss, yet others don't think they help at all.
But you can certainly cycle without purchasing products such as Cycle.
fantailfan1's post in ph 8.0 too high for fancy goldfish? was marked as the answer
A pH of 8 is just fine as long as it's stable. With a KH of about 107 and a high GH, you should be just fine.
Now head on over to the Goldfish Photos section and show us those fish!
Don't try to bring it down. My tank pH is 8.2-8.4 and my fish do well.
fantailfan1's post in Fish Not Eating was marked as the answer
Can you get a close up pic of that area? (You may need to hold him or put him in a smaller container if possible)
I would recommend a round or 2 of prazi and salt.
Try soaking some food (I would try something soft like bloodworms) in garlic to see if that entices him any.
fantailfan1's post in One eye bigger then the other was marked as the answer
A moor is a black telescope. I think the name moor refers to black + telescope.
Kinda like the square/rectangle thing. All squares are rectangles but not all rectangles are squares.
All moors are telescopes but not all telescopes are moors.
fantailfan1's post in Can I? was marked as the answer
I have 3 in a 40 gallon. But keep this in mind:
I am an adult (not sure if you are or aren't but I'm just sayin) and am fully willing and able to upgrade should/when I need to. My fish are small. My biggest is 41 grams and he is a year old. My next biggest is only 14 grams and she is probably 3-4 years old (not so good at keeping track of this) and hasn't grown in months, if not years. My 3rd fish I just got 3 weeks ago. He is 4 grams. Should he grow to the size of my biggest fish or larger, I see a bigger tank in my future.
Can you do it? Yes, if you are aware that they may (and very likely will) grow tremendously and need a bigger tank in the not so distant future.
Keep on top of your water changes and be aware of nitrates. And start planning for an upgrade so you're ready for it when they grow to be giants.