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Ranchugirl

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Everything posted by Ranchugirl

  1. THats so cool - Shadow actually kept his dark coloration!? Is it black, or more of a chocolate color?
  2. Oh, finally, somebody with bubble eyes! Amy, I was thinking of you while writing the article. Do you have pictures of yours?
  3. Goldfish of the month July: THE BUBBLE EYE! Origin As many other goldfish before him, the bubble eye also orgins in China, and was at first most likely a mutant to a telescope or celestial, developing rather strange additional features that later were bred out into the breed of the bubble eye. Body features The bubble eye will bring out completely different opinions in most people, and will devide right down the middle - one half completely in love with the fish, the other half most likely finding him a freak of nature. Either way, he is not a "normal" looking goldfish at all, which can be attributed to his huge bubbles on either side of his face, right underneath his eyes. Those bubbles are liquid filled sacs, and are extremely delicate, and can burst easily. Other features are the eyes, which - different to most other goldfish breeds - point upwards. The bubble eye is not as round in his body feature as the fish of last month, the ryukin. He is a rather slim fish, has a pair of anal, ventral and pectoral fins, and should have a smooth back, with no visible indentations or humps. In China the bubble eye is bred with and without dorsal fin, but here in the US, by standards of the GFSA, any sign of a dorsal fin, may it even be so slightly, is grounds for disqualification on a show. These standards count as well in most other western countries. (Courtesy Ken from DandyOrandas.com in 2008) Color options The color palette for this fish is rather big as well - red/white, red, red/black, even colors of blue and chocolate have been seen. Then there is the familiar calico and not so much known black, which, like in most goldie breeds, is not a stable color. (Courtesy Ken Fischer from DandyOrandas.com 2008) Challenges and food menu The bubble eye is a rather challenging fish when it comes to his housing and diet. Those liquid filled bubble sacs, as mentioned above, are very delicate and can easily be damaged and destroyed. This requires some planning ahead when purchasing a bubble eye - no sharp objects or ornaments, plastic plants need to be inspected for any edges and leaves that might damage the bubbles. The intake tubes of the filter should be covered with a sponge or fine netting - bubble eyes generally are weak swimmers, and tend to get too close to those intake tubes, not being able to swim free from the current. Food is another thing to think about - not that the bubble eye needs a particular food. Just by looking at the constellation of his eyes, one can imagine that its very hard for him to find food that sinks rather fast, or is very small (like bloodworms). He prefers slowly sinking food, veggies on a clip at the same spot in the tank every time when feeding. Its also a very good idea to keep only bubble eyes or other "eye handicapped" fish in with him, like telescopes and celestials. That way everybody has a fair chance at the dinner table, and we don't have any starving bubble eye while a much faster oranda gobbles up all the food, before the fish can get to it. And last, but not least..... Once the basic needs for this beautiful fish are met, you will have a happy and healthy fish for a long time. If by accident a bubble gets compromised, it might take time, but in most cases it will grow back. It will not get his original shape and/or size, and the two bubbles in comparison will not look equal anymore, which is a big disadvantage in a show, but will not minimize the joy and fun you will have with a bubble eye at all. One funny obversation I made with bubble eyes over the years - when they get older or get sick, they tend to slow down enormously. Not only resting a lot, but they will start to seem disoriented in the tank, floating around at times without being able to right them back up. This can go on for weeks, the bubble eye apparently not bothered by it at all, and he stops to fight it after time, while one morning you will find him stuck to the intake tube or squeezed in between plants and ornaments, so weak that he can not move anymore. This up-side-down behaviour I haven't observed in any aging or sick breed otherwise, and it seems a unique to the bubble eye.........
  4. Thats okay,Emma, you got veils over there instead! Can we switch fish?
  5. Thats my darling, Alexander. Koko put it up there for me, though! ....
  6. FancyFins, you can send them to me, I will post them for you - its RAJ-Pecher@msn.com. Just remember to put your username in the subject line, otherwise it gets kicked out!....
  7. Tony!!!! Glad you are back! Everything is okay on this end. Moved into a new place with loads of grounds to put ponds, and - big surprise - added some more fish and other critters. So, basically, nothing out of the ordinary! .... Now, what we wonna see are really NEW pics!....
  8. Yeah, it got me too there for a second.....
  9. Oh, come on now, guys, there gotta be more ryukin out there, I am sure!! More for the photo gallery, please!
  10. Erika, your ryukin looks beautiful! I especially like his finnage! Sharon, sometimes its just strange about goldies, and we can't do anything about them dying. But he sure sounded wonderful.... Tanya, usually I grab a few of my books and search around on the internet for info on a particular breed, but this time I was without internet, and for the life of it still can't find Rick Hess' book either. So this one came entirely out of memory.... A lot about the fishes anatomy and background I find in some papers from the GFSA as well. Keep the ryukin pics coming, I know they are out there in numbers!!
  11. Better late than never, guys! Sorry it took so long, but I moved, and was without internet access for a frightening 10 days!! Here we go for this month - Enjoy!! Goldfish of the month June: The Ryukin Origin The Ryukin is one of the few fish not coming out of China. He is actually a "production" of Japan, and a very destinctive at that. The Japanese are very shy when it comes to letting their breeds out of the country, and despite of that the ryukin has turned into one of the more widely known and popular fish here in the U.S. Body Features To me, the ryukin has somewhat of a rubmarine kind of appearance, like a boxer in the water. His breed distinctive features are his deep body, almost as deep as the body length, and his softball like look because of that. His high dorsal fin make him look even bigger. Being a fancy goldfish, he has 2 anal, ventral and pectoral fins, evenly paired, and a few different caudal fin shapes, which can be longfinned, short tailed, ribbon, even butterfly, and latter one is a very beautiful feature viewed from above. His most recognizable mark however is the humplike apppearance right after his head, and the higher that hump is, the higher quality ryukin you got. Color options First only available in red, the ryukin has been bred with a very wide variety of colors lately, among them being red, red/white, pure white, greenish, blue, calico and chocolate. Altough in a calico ryukin for some reason it is very hard to breed the very high hump into the line, so finding a calico ryukin with a well developed hump is a challenge, and when found is always a very appreciated fish at shows. Challanges and feeding With any deep bodied fish, swim bladder problem is always in the air, so certain precautions have to be taken, which have to begin when shopping for a ryukin. Stay away from any that are already obviously floating or head standing, since this is a sign of already progressed, and most likely, irreversable, swim bladder problems. A ryukin should be literally pushing the water aside when swimming, and being a very strong swimmer, that makes his appearance so forceful. When bringing your fish home, make sure he gets the proper diet right from the start, to prevent any problems in the future. Stay away from any floating flakes and pellets, and even the sinking kind should be soaked first. Nitrates should be kept below 20 ppm, since constantly higher nitrates are thought to be part of the swim bladder problem. Other than that, a ryukin is a active and easy to take care of fish, and goes will with other goldies, although can be a pretty rough on any weaker fish like bubble eyes or telescopes. Orandas, lions and ranchu are perfect companion for the ryukin. As for the rest of his diet, he basically gobbles down anything that hits the water and looks remote like food, so go ahead and indulge the fish - frozen foods like unsalted cocktail shrimp, krill brine shrimp, bloodworms, daphnia, the veggie group like spirulina flakes (soaked), algae, zucchini, lettuce, peas, and yes, aquatic plants (sorry, the ryukin does not stray away from the other goldie breeds' most favorite snack!), sinking pellets. Basic requirements Like a lot of other goldfish breeds, the ryukin is one of them that grow rather large, with 8-10 inches in good care and water mass. The minimum requirement when it comes to tank size would be at least 10-15 gl for a small ryukin, 20 gl and up for an adult sized fish. With his deep body he produces a lot of waste and ammonia, and will simply not grow to his full potential in a too small or overcrowded tank. And for all of those with ponds outside, he loves them. There is so much more water mass available in a pond, and more natural food like algae, daphnia and mosquito larvae, so a pond ryukin will generally be bigger and hardier than one in a tank. But like most other goldies, take precautions when winter times approaches, and get the ryukin inside. And for most goldie breeds, separate them from the koi. The ryukin is no match for the fast moving and enormously big koi.
  12. Tabi, the same size rubbermaid container filters my 300 gl tub right now, and it does great. I just added a couple more bags of the bio balls, and a few more sponges, thats all. The plants in it actually doing an amazing job, and after a few days you can see all kinds of gunk clinging to the roots of the plants sitting in the more quiet spot of the filter. The pump runs at around 1000 gl/hour, if I remember right. But even if I would go out and look right now, I wouldn't see much, most of the pump is covered in a thick mat of algae....
  13. Josh, your Nala and Chester look very pretty, but I can't seem to get in Bob. Emma, having any pics of Damon around? From the name, he sounds like a spunky fish!
  14. Yeah, thats actually where they originally came from - Bristol in England!...Amy, got a picture of Copper? He must be a very special fish!
  15. Goldfish of the month: The Black Moor The black moor is a very popular goldfish breed, and can be found all over the world in millions of collectors tanks. He is easily available in most areas, and is not a too delicate fish. Coloration The black moor is only allowed in, well, black! And unlike most other goldfish breeds, he stays pretty true to his black color. He can change over time, especially with old age, but most black moor stay black. Its one of the the few breeds where it can be said that the black will most likely stay. Body features The body depth should be greater than 2/3 of the body length. The caudal fin should be double, and the lobes 90% or more forked, as well as nicely rounded. The black moor has a dorsal fin, which should be 1/3 to 5/8 of the body depth. Pectoral and pelvic fins are paired, and should be equal in length. Anal fins are paired as well. His most distinquished features however are his eyes - they are protruding, and should be of equal size and shape, well matched with each other. Unlike the Celestial, which has eyes going upwards, the eyes of the black moor are going sideways. The color, as mentioned above, is always black, and it has a deep velvet look to it. (Going through a color change) Variations Besides the different kinds of caudal fins available, there are not that many variations to the black moor. The fish comes in broad tail, ribbon tail and butterfly, which is especially pretty when viewed from above. In earlier times, around the 1930s, there was a very gorgeous veiltail moor vastly appreciated in England, but unfortunately they are not available anymore to my knowledge. Environmental needs The black moor is not doing too good in a pond, but will be a very happy fish in an aquarium. Due to his predominant eyes, he has a bit of a hard time seing his food, and needs some extra time when it comes to feeding him. Therefore it is recommended that he is being kept with other eye handicapped fish like celestials, telescopes or bubble eyes. That way he has an equal chance to find food. His eyes are also a big handicap when it comes to tank ornaments and some kinds of plastic plants, especially the ones that come with sharp edges or spikey leaves. His eyes can get damaged or even fall off, for that reason great care has to be taken when deciding what kind of tank decor goes into his tank. Silk plants are a much better choice, and tank ornaments in general should be much better off in tanks with other goldfish breeds. (Black Moor with veil tail, courtesy of Dandyorandas.com) Lunch time! When it comes to feeding time, a black moor is just like any other goldfish - a pig! He eats almost anything and everything thats easily available on the market - pellets (sinking prefered), flakes, frozen foods like daphnia, shrimp, bloodworms, pre-cooked cocktail shrimp, freeze dried foods, fresh veggies like lettuce, cucumber, peas..... And again, because of his eye shape, he will have a harder time finding certain foods, especially the ones that tend to float around in the tank a while before they settle down - flakes and the frozen foods. He needs some extra time with those, and surely appreciates it if some faster oranda does not take away his dinner!
  16. Very simple! Did it in 10 minutes..... "Ingredients" - - 4 90 degrees elbows - 2 tees - PVC pipes from Homedepot (all of the above in 1 inch diamter) - Piece of pond netting - Package of Easy-Ties Measure the length and height of the area you wonna put the divider in, and cut the pipes to size. You should have 2 small sides for the height of the divider, the rest of it is for the length. Stack the pieces together....It should look like this.... Lay the piece of pond netting flat on the floor, cut it a little bit bigger than the size of the divider, put the divider on top of the net, and tighten the net onto the divider with the easy-ties. Cut the pieces off of the easy-ties that are too long, so the fish can't hurt themselves on them. The finished product..... .....in the pond! Done!! Ranchu babies on one side, 3 wakin on the other. Since the wakin are in breeding mood, there is no hurting the way smaller ranchu, and no odd fish fry either!
  17. Name of disease: Columnaris (Flexibacter Columnaris) Other names: Cotton mouth disease Origin: Bacterial Symptoms: cottony growth or white threads blowing out of mouth, lethargy, clamped fins, thick heavy slime coat, dry skin. Background: Although Columnaris might look at first like a fungus, it is not. It is a type of bacterial infection and must be treated as such. Actual fungus growth can be, however, an indication that bacterial problems exist. Fungus feeds on dead tissue created by bacterial infection. You can treat for the fungus and still miss the culprit.A bacterial infection can be an indicator, that some sort of parasite is in the tank system. Columnaris, like a lot of other bacterial diseases, can be prevented y quarantining new fish, improving water quality, reducing organic debris in the tank. Treatment: feed medicated food like Medigold or Romet-B, treat with Pottasium Permanganate (see discription in the medicine section), injection of antibacterial medication if available. Melafix will also work well in aiding the infection. Precautions: As long as water conditions are not improved, Columnaris is always a possibility. With most diseases, the quality and conditions of the water is a primary risk factor in keeping goldfish happy and healthy. Since a lot of medications, like PP, can wipe out beneficial bactria, it is important to remove or bypass the biological filtration during treatment.
  18. Name of disease: Velvet Other names: Oodinium Occurance: common Symptoms: Flashing and scratching, thick slime coat, white-yellowish patches on the skin. Treatment: Salt is not very effective, but QuickCure for 3 days, or any medication containing Formalin will do the trick. So does Copper, although Copper can be a bit harsh on the fish. Background: Just like Ich, Velvet will produce little swarmers of new parasites that will go all over the tank within a few days. Velvet mostly comes into the tank via not quarantined fish, so the best solution in preventing that parasite is either not to introduce new fish at all to a tank, or quarantine the fish and treating the fish accordingly, after searching for parasites with the microscope.
  19. Name of disease: Fish lice Other names: Argulus Type: Parasite Occurance: Very common parasite, can be found in pet stores all over the world. Appearance and symptoms: Fish lice are one of the very few parasites that are visible with the naked eye. Easily recognized in its green disk like shape, often with 2 visible eyes, and can move around on the fish. Symptoms, besides the obviously visible disk, are scratching and rubbing against objects, and tiny red spots where the hooks held on to the body and gills. Treatment: Best treated with medication containing Diflubenzuron, like Anchors Away (treat as directed on the package) or Dimillin (3 times with 6 days apart). The visible fish lice should be taken off of the fishes body with tweezers, the red spot that the hooks leave behind, needs to be treated with neosporin or Panalog. Background: The fish louse is a very dangerous parasite. Its hooks can go into the fishes skin and gills and causes extreme irritation. Due to the open wound the fish is suspectible to secondary infections like bacterial gill disease and ulcers. Besides the physical injuries to the fish, the constant irritation causes stress, which might lead to secondary parasite attacks like Ich and Costia. The fish lice will lay eggs all over the tank on plants and ornaments, and after a few days those mini lice will go out and try to find a host on their own. the whole process take 30-100 days, depending on the temperature. It is therfore very important, to have follow up treatments. Anybody having a picture of an invested fish with the lice clearly visible, feel free to put it up here....
  20. Name of disease: Trichodina Type of disease: parasite Occurrence: very common found in pet store fish around the world Symptoms include: irritated skin, flashing and scratching, which can lead to ulcers Treatment: Salt is very effective against Trichodina, at a rate of 0.3%, added 0.1% (1 tbs per 5 gl water) every 12 hours for 3 times. Some strains have been found to be resistant against salt, so another choice of treatment would be QuickCure or any other medication containing Formalin. Precautions: Trichodina is a rather "special" pathogen in 2 ways - it is able to survive low temperatures( as low as the mid 30s) and can be a thread to fish outdoors in the spring. Secondly, it is a parasite that thrives in tanks and ponds with lots or organic loads and debris. Keeping the tank bottom clean from debris will help tremendously in keeping Trichodina out of the tank if any newly aquired fish are properly quarantined and treated. The same of course is neccessary for ponds as well, considering that huge amounts of leaves and other debris is something that can accumulate the ponds bottom over time. Trichodina under the scope: View attachment: Trichodina.jpg
  21. Name of disease: Costia Type of diseaseparasite Occurrence: one of the most serious parasites in goldfish Symptoms include: gasping at the surface, slime patches around head and gills, sudden death (especially in spring), small hemorrhages under chin, spider web kind of lesions. Treatment: Salt is the best, and most gentle way for the fish, to treat Costia. A salt solution of 0.3% is recommended, with 0.1% (1 tbs per 5 gl of water) added to the tank every 12 hours 3 times, so you are up to 0.3% after 36 hours. Some strains of costia have become resistant to salt, so the second best medication for it is QuickCure, or any medication containing Formalin. Potassium permanganate (PP) is also effective. Precautions: Costia is a fast killer, if not treated immediately, since the parasite attacks the fishes gills. It is a parasite that can live in cooler waters as well, which is especially dangerous in the spring time when the fishes immune system is weakened, while the parasite is working full power. Costia under the microscope: View attachment: Costia.jpg
  22. Name of disease:body and gill flukes (monogenetic trematodes) Type of disease: parasite Occurrence: one of the most commonly found parasites on a goldfish Symptoms include:excessive slime coat, isolation, clamped fins, scratching and flashing, sores and ulcers as the result of the scratching. With gill flukes, its gasping at the surface, gills being irritated and cloppy looking. Background: Both types of flukes can be found on the fish simultaniously. but are different in their way of reproduction. The gill flukes lives in the gills and lays eggs in the tank, while the body fluke lives on the fishes body and bears live youngens. Flukes will not bite the fish or suck blood, but feeds on the fishes slime coat, therefore endangering the fishes protective layer and allow penetration of other parasites as well. The gill flukes can do exessive damage to the gills, and cause bacterial gill disease as well. Treatment: A blanket salt treatment can take care of at least 7 pathogens, but it will not affect the fluke. Commonly used treatments are pottassium permanganate (PP), Droncit, Fluketabs, Formalin and Healthguard and Quick Cure. A repeat treatment is neccessary, since the eggs or larvae can still be in the tank, even thought he first round of treatment would have killed off the mother fluke. A follow up treatment is recommended every 4 days, and just as a precaution, a third one after another 4 days. A simple dip, with great success done by JoAnn Burke, the founder of Dandy Orandas, works good as well - 1 part of hydrogen peroxide (commonly found in the stores) and 9 parts of tank water mixed together, and the fish dipped in it for no more than 10 seconds will knock both types of flukes off really good, but a treatment of the tank is still neccessary with the above mentioned medications. Precautions: Since the treatment will kill off your beneficial bacteria, the filter media should be taken out during treatment. One might say that fluke larvae might still be hiding in the media, so a reintroduction into the filter after the 1. treatment brings the fluke back. But the larvae that remains in the filter media will need to get out and find another host, otherwise it will starve. So, with a 2. and 3. round of treatment you can assure that all the larvae are out of the media. Also make sure that you measure the dosage correctly, since a lot of those treatments are potentially dangerous to the fish. Prevention: The newest research on flukes has discovered an interesting result - a closed population of fish seem to develop immunity against the flukes, and that will eliminate the fluke over time. The risk of fluke investation is lowered tremendously if one can resist the urge to keep introducing new fish to an established aquarium, or any new arrivals would need to be treated for flukes automatically, since the fluke is found in aquariums and pet stores all over the world. Fluke, as seen under a microscope.... View attachment: FlukeUnderMicroscope.jpg
  23. And on top of the breeding page it is now! Thanks Orandaman, great footage!
  24. Name of disease: Anchor worms (Lernea Elegans) Type of disease: Parasite Occurrence: Very common, and unless most other parasites, Anchor worm is not stress related. It is highly contagious as well, so the whole tank needs to be treated. Symptoms include: A very visible parasite, so no microscope is needed. A anchor worm will attach to the body of the fish.Unlike fish lice, the anchor worm doesn't move around on the body of the fish once its attached. Flashing and scratching when the anchor worm is still in the larvae stage, since the larvae will attach to the fishes body with the same menace then the adult. Appearance: A long stick like shape, with two extensions, shaped like a "Y". The color can be green, white, yellow. It might be a bloody spot where the head of the anchor worm hooks himself under the scale of the fish. Caused by: Like mentioned above, anchor worms are not caused by stress of the fish. They can be brought in on a newly arriving fish, that hasn't been quarantined, or even as an egg on plant. Treatment: The anchor worm can be removed with tweezers from the infected fish, the bloody spot dipped once with iodine or hydrogen peroxide on a cotton swab, and then daily application of neosporin creme. If the anchor worm is on a newly aquired fish in quarantine, thats mostly all thats needed. If the whole tank is infected, additional measures are asked for. Medications like Dimillin or Program as well as other readily available remedies are neccessary in that case. Anchors Away can be used, and has (Dimillin)Diflubenzuron as main ingredient. Salt is great as well. Precautions: Even though the visible anchor worm might be removed, there is still a good chance that there are larvae in the tank, especially if the tank is heavily infested. Before the anchor worm can be seen,damage could already be done to the gills and skin of the fish. Secondary infections from the open wound are also possible, so a round of medicated food is a good idea. Picture of affected fish (Thanks, Wyukin!
  25. So, any other shubunkin pictures?? Come on now, I know they are out there!!
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