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Ranchugirl last won the day on August 13 2020

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    The 50 mark has come and gone! Feeling great!
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    What, I am supposed to remember that after all these years??
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  1. There are quite a few methods out there, and it all depends on how many fish you have, and how long the trip is gonna be. First tip will be a short version, in case its only one fish, or a very short trip. The second tip is for a larger number of fish (oops, do I see myself in the mirror here? ), and a longer trip. Short trip, only a few fish For a short trip, all you really need is finding a trusted pet store, borrow some bigger fish bags from them( 1-2 smaller fish, or one large fish per bag) , put your fish in there. cover the fish just barely with water, just above their dorsal fin. Then let the pet store fill up the bag with oxygen, and close it securely. Put the bags inside a cooler, and off you go. Some pet stores do not have oxygen, like Petsupermarket, so you really need to find one with an oxygen tank. Let them double bag your fish, which is basically another bag over the fish bag, in case one is leaking water. Voila, all set. Long trip, an enormous number of fish There is a relatively simple, yet safe, way to go about doing this. You'll need a few things, and they'll be especially helpful if the trip is a longer one. "Ingredients list": - 1 20 gl new garbage container with lid (or anything bigger than 15 gl, and I usually use 30 gl) - batterie operated airpumps (sold at most petstores), one for each container, and one for the filter - regular airpump (for the times that you are in the hotel/with family) - 1 bottle of Prime (or any other ammonia remover) - python for water changes (or a few extra smaller buckets, never been used for cleaning before!) - one plastic container to fit the filter in - test kits to test for ammonia during trip - aquarium salt to ease the stress - a few extra sets of batteries for the airpump (1 pair of DD batteries for each pump) The idea is to travel with the goldfish in the bigger plastic container. Cut holes into the lid of the container for oxygen exchange. The airpumps will supply the fish with air while traveling, and they come with a piece or tubing and an airstone. Its inside the batterie compartment. You'll need a pair of DD batteries to run the pump. The container will only gonna be filled 1/4 with water at the most, the rest is sort of a splashing guard. You know, stepping on the brakes or driving around a corner, and the water moves. Don't wonna have that all over the car. The airpumps can be hung pretty easily on the rim or the handle of the container before you put the lid on, and fiddle the airline tubing/stone through the holes you cut into the lid earlier. Now, for the travel itself, do not feed your fish for at least 4 days before the trip. That will cut down immensly on any ammonia buildup. Remember, there isn't gonna be a filter on those container for the duration of the trip. A day before the trip, put the water in the container, so the temperature adjusts to the tank temperature. If you wonna take apart the tank/filter a day before as well, you can put the fish in the container a day ahead as well. Give a double dose of Prime. Just make sure you'll do a water change on the day of the trip then before you leave. Add 1 teaspoon per gl of water into the container. Once its trip time, tape the lid to the container with duct tape. Then the container goes into the car (back seat, or back compartment in a minivan or SUV). Of course, try to avoid road bumps and such while you are at it - the sloshing sound will give it away if you should be more careful next time. It'll be best if the container is in air condition, that reduces the stress, plus there is more oxygen in a cooler room than a warm one. Don't wonna pump warm air into the container via the airpump. Check on the fish every few hours when you get out for a drink or a stretch anyhow, test their water and add some Prime. Once you arrive at your destination for that day (family or hotel), get the container inside, check for ammonia and do a nice big water change. That can either be done with some extra buckets that you brought along, or the python system that lets you do water changes from almost any faucet. Make sure the temperature is the same and the pH. If you use buckets, let the buckets sit for a while before you put the water in with the fish. That gives the water a chance to degas and stabalize the pH. For those times that you are sleeping and are in hotels/family or friends, you can use the ordinary airpump for airsupply, so it isn't such a strain on the batteries. Check ammonia in the morning again before you leave, if neccessary do another water change, always add double Prime, seal the lids, and off you go. You can repeat that process every night/day until you reach your destination. If it is more than a week from when you first stopped feeding your fish until you reach your destination, you might wonna give them a very small meal at night, and then change their water nicely in the morning. Not feeding your fish for more than a week can put a strain on them, so a very slight meal once is a good idea. How to travel with the filter? Well, whatever you do, do not let the media get dry, or without oxygen. I usually have a separate small container where I just put the media in, fill that container with dechlorinated water to just barely cover it all, and stick an airstone on a batterie operated airpump in it, plus a few crumbs of fish food. If you let the media get dry or without oxygen, the beneficial bacteria will die off, and you have to cycle the whole tank again once you get to WA. Too much stress on the fish. The fish food will give off the neccessary ammonia to "feed" the bacteria during your trip. The latter version is one that I have practised at least, well, 2 times, and it worked pretty well. Not feeding, testing the ammonia levels frequently an doing water changes accordingly, is the most important aspect of it all. Now, get those moving boxes going!
  2. I have been using both, the Rena inside for the tanks, the Tetra deepwater for an above ground pond outside. Both are equally high quality airpumps, one of the best on the market, and highly efficient.......... Rena airpump The Rena comes in different sizes - depending on what size tank you have - and all of them are equally quiet. Even after years of use I still hardly can hear my Rena, the motor does not work louder over time. And even after a running time of over 4 years, nothing has broken down yet. When it comes to efficiency, there is no better one than the Rena. On my big one, the Rena 400, I have running up to 12 airstones at once, and there is no easing up on the power. If replacement parts are ever needed, they are easily found online or at vvvv, and are just as easily accessable inside the pump, and installed. (Hubby took one apart, just for the fun of it!.... ) Tetra deepwater I have bought the deepwater, not the regular Tetra airpump, simply because my above ground ponds are all 4 ft deep, and I was afraid a regular one might not be strong enough. Very efficient indeed, that pump, also available in a few sizes, me having the biggest one, with dual outlet. It works like a charm, even in the deepest spot in the pond, and I have the really big airstones running in there, 6 inches long from fiber glass. Its a hardy pump, not a part broke yet after 3 years of use, and that is not an easy task, considering mine is sitting outside in the FLorida rain and sun. Hubby left this one's insides alone, so I don't know how easily replaceable parts are... As to comparison for those two, the Rena does do a little poor when the airstones are in deeper water, I had it running on that 4 ft pond first before I got the Tetra. While the Tetra on the other hand loses power when too many airstones are connected on it, but so far 6 stones are working fine..... Both pumps are a bit more expensive then the ordinary ones from the store, or nnnnnn, but its well worth the money. Instead of 3-4 airpumps running you need only one, and that makes up in the price. And even more so, if you get it online...
  3. Very simple! Did it in 10 minutes..... "Ingredients" - - 4 90 degrees elbows - 2 tees - PVC pipes from Homedepot (all of the above in 1 inch diamter) - Piece of pond netting - Package of Easy-Ties Measure the length and height of the area you wonna put the divider in, and cut the pipes to size. You should have 2 small sides for the height of the divider, the rest of it is for the length. Stack the pieces together....It should look like this.... Lay the piece of pond netting flat on the floor, cut it a little bit bigger than the size of the divider, put the divider on top of the net, and tighten the net onto the divider with the easy-ties. Cut the pieces off of the easy-ties that are too long, so the fish can't hurt themselves on them. The finished product..... .....in the pond! Done!! Ranchu babies on one side, 3 wakin on the other. Since the wakin are in breeding mood, there is no hurting the way smaller ranchu, and no odd fish fry either!
  4. Name of disease: Columnaris (Flexibacter Columnaris) Other names: Cotton mouth disease Origin: Bacterial Symptoms: cottony growth or white threads blowing out of mouth, lethargy, clamped fins, thick heavy slime coat, dry skin. Background: Although Columnaris might look at first like a fungus, it is not. It is a type of bacterial infection and must be treated as such. Actual fungus growth can be, however, an indication that bacterial problems exist. Fungus feeds on dead tissue created by bacterial infection. You can treat for the fungus and still miss the culprit.A bacterial infection can be an indicator, that some sort of parasite is in the tank system. Columnaris, like a lot of other bacterial diseases, can be prevented y quarantining new fish, improving water quality, reducing organic debris in the tank. Treatment: feed medicated food like Medigold or Romet-B, treat with Pottasium Permanganate (see discription in the medicine section), injection of antibacterial medication if available. Melafix will also work well in aiding the infection. Precautions: As long as water conditions are not improved, Columnaris is always a possibility. With most diseases, the quality and conditions of the water is a primary risk factor in keeping goldfish happy and healthy. Since a lot of medications, like PP, can wipe out beneficial bactria, it is important to remove or bypass the biological filtration during treatment.
  5. Name of disease: Velvet Other names: Oodinium Occurance: common Symptoms: Flashing and scratching, thick slime coat, white-yellowish patches on the skin. Treatment: Salt is not very effective, but QuickCure for 3 days, or any medication containing Formalin will do the trick. So does Copper, although Copper can be a bit harsh on the fish. Background: Just like Ich, Velvet will produce little swarmers of new parasites that will go all over the tank within a few days. Velvet mostly comes into the tank via not quarantined fish, so the best solution in preventing that parasite is either not to introduce new fish at all to a tank, or quarantine the fish and treating the fish accordingly, after searching for parasites with the microscope.
  6. Name of disease: Fish lice Other names: Argulus Type: Parasite Occurance: Very common parasite, can be found in pet stores all over the world. Appearance and symptoms: Fish lice are one of the very few parasites that are visible with the naked eye. Easily recognized in its green disk like shape, often with 2 visible eyes, and can move around on the fish. Symptoms, besides the obviously visible disk, are scratching and rubbing against objects, and tiny red spots where the hooks held on to the body and gills. Treatment: Best treated with medication containing Diflubenzuron, like Anchors Away (treat as directed on the package) or Dimillin (3 times with 6 days apart). The visible fish lice should be taken off of the fishes body with tweezers, the red spot that the hooks leave behind, needs to be treated with neosporin or Panalog. Background: The fish louse is a very dangerous parasite. Its hooks can go into the fishes skin and gills and causes extreme irritation. Due to the open wound the fish is suspectible to secondary infections like bacterial gill disease and ulcers. Besides the physical injuries to the fish, the constant irritation causes stress, which might lead to secondary parasite attacks like Ich and Costia. The fish lice will lay eggs all over the tank on plants and ornaments, and after a few days those mini lice will go out and try to find a host on their own. the whole process take 30-100 days, depending on the temperature. It is therfore very important, to have follow up treatments. Anybody having a picture of an invested fish with the lice clearly visible, feel free to put it up here....
  7. Name of disease: Trichodina Type of disease: parasite Occurrence: very common found in pet store fish around the world Symptoms include: irritated skin, flashing and scratching, which can lead to ulcers Treatment: Salt is very effective against Trichodina, at a rate of 0.3%, added 0.1% (1 tbs per 5 gl water) every 12 hours for 3 times. Some strains have been found to be resistant against salt, so another choice of treatment would be QuickCure or any other medication containing Formalin. Precautions: Trichodina is a rather "special" pathogen in 2 ways - it is able to survive low temperatures( as low as the mid 30s) and can be a thread to fish outdoors in the spring. Secondly, it is a parasite that thrives in tanks and ponds with lots or organic loads and debris. Keeping the tank bottom clean from debris will help tremendously in keeping Trichodina out of the tank if any newly aquired fish are properly quarantined and treated. The same of course is neccessary for ponds as well, considering that huge amounts of leaves and other debris is something that can accumulate the ponds bottom over time. Trichodina under the scope: View attachment: Trichodina.jpg
  8. Name of disease: Costia Type of diseaseparasite Occurrence: one of the most serious parasites in goldfish Symptoms include: gasping at the surface, slime patches around head and gills, sudden death (especially in spring), small hemorrhages under chin, spider web kind of lesions. Treatment: Salt is the best, and most gentle way for the fish, to treat Costia. A salt solution of 0.3% is recommended, with 0.1% (1 tbs per 5 gl of water) added to the tank every 12 hours 3 times, so you are up to 0.3% after 36 hours. Some strains of costia have become resistant to salt, so the second best medication for it is QuickCure, or any medication containing Formalin. Potassium permanganate (PP) is also effective. Precautions: Costia is a fast killer, if not treated immediately, since the parasite attacks the fishes gills. It is a parasite that can live in cooler waters as well, which is especially dangerous in the spring time when the fishes immune system is weakened, while the parasite is working full power. Costia under the microscope: View attachment: Costia.jpg
  9. Name of disease:body and gill flukes (monogenetic trematodes) Type of disease: parasite Occurrence: one of the most commonly found parasites on a goldfish Symptoms include:excessive slime coat, isolation, clamped fins, scratching and flashing, sores and ulcers as the result of the scratching. With gill flukes, its gasping at the surface, gills being irritated and cloppy looking. Background: Both types of flukes can be found on the fish simultaniously. but are different in their way of reproduction. The gill flukes lives in the gills and lays eggs in the tank, while the body fluke lives on the fishes body and bears live youngens. Flukes will not bite the fish or suck blood, but feeds on the fishes slime coat, therefore endangering the fishes protective layer and allow penetration of other parasites as well. The gill flukes can do exessive damage to the gills, and cause bacterial gill disease as well. Treatment: A blanket salt treatment can take care of at least 7 pathogens, but it will not affect the fluke. Commonly used treatments are pottassium permanganate (PP), Droncit, Fluketabs, Formalin and Healthguard and Quick Cure. A repeat treatment is neccessary, since the eggs or larvae can still be in the tank, even thought he first round of treatment would have killed off the mother fluke. A follow up treatment is recommended every 4 days, and just as a precaution, a third one after another 4 days. A simple dip, with great success done by JoAnn Burke, the founder of Dandy Orandas, works good as well - 1 part of hydrogen peroxide (commonly found in the stores) and 9 parts of tank water mixed together, and the fish dipped in it for no more than 10 seconds will knock both types of flukes off really good, but a treatment of the tank is still neccessary with the above mentioned medications. Precautions: Since the treatment will kill off your beneficial bacteria, the filter media should be taken out during treatment. One might say that fluke larvae might still be hiding in the media, so a reintroduction into the filter after the 1. treatment brings the fluke back. But the larvae that remains in the filter media will need to get out and find another host, otherwise it will starve. So, with a 2. and 3. round of treatment you can assure that all the larvae are out of the media. Also make sure that you measure the dosage correctly, since a lot of those treatments are potentially dangerous to the fish. Prevention: The newest research on flukes has discovered an interesting result - a closed population of fish seem to develop immunity against the flukes, and that will eliminate the fluke over time. The risk of fluke investation is lowered tremendously if one can resist the urge to keep introducing new fish to an established aquarium, or any new arrivals would need to be treated for flukes automatically, since the fluke is found in aquariums and pet stores all over the world. Fluke, as seen under a microscope.... View attachment: FlukeUnderMicroscope.jpg
  10. Name of disease: Anchor worms (Lernea Elegans) Type of disease: Parasite Occurrence: Very common, and unless most other parasites, Anchor worm is not stress related. It is highly contagious as well, so the whole tank needs to be treated. Symptoms include: A very visible parasite, so no microscope is needed. A anchor worm will attach to the body of the fish.Unlike fish lice, the anchor worm doesn't move around on the body of the fish once its attached. Flashing and scratching when the anchor worm is still in the larvae stage, since the larvae will attach to the fishes body with the same menace then the adult. Appearance: A long stick like shape, with two extensions, shaped like a "Y". The color can be green, white, yellow. It might be a bloody spot where the head of the anchor worm hooks himself under the scale of the fish. Caused by: Like mentioned above, anchor worms are not caused by stress of the fish. They can be brought in on a newly arriving fish, that hasn't been quarantined, or even as an egg on plant. Treatment: The anchor worm can be removed with tweezers from the infected fish, the bloody spot dipped once with iodine or hydrogen peroxide on a cotton swab, and then daily application of neosporin creme. If the anchor worm is on a newly aquired fish in quarantine, thats mostly all thats needed. If the whole tank is infected, additional measures are asked for. Medications like Dimillin or Program as well as other readily available remedies are neccessary in that case. Anchors Away can be used, and has (Dimillin)Diflubenzuron as main ingredient. Salt is great as well. Precautions: Even though the visible anchor worm might be removed, there is still a good chance that there are larvae in the tank, especially if the tank is heavily infested. Before the anchor worm can be seen,damage could already be done to the gills and skin of the fish. Secondary infections from the open wound are also possible, so a round of medicated food is a good idea. Picture of affected fish (Thanks, Wyukin!
  11. While being on the koi/goldfish show a couple of weeks ago, I listened in on an interesting discussion about the importance of waterchanges, and this is what I learned.... Participants were a half a dozen experienced koi keepers with a few expensive koi in their collection (except me, of course ), and they were trying to explain a newbie why it is so important to change the water frequently... Its not only to reduce the amount of waste and nitrates in the water. More importantly it is to get something out of the tank that would hinder the growth of the fish....A fish expells a growth inhibitor while breathing, and that growth inhibitor remains in the tank/pond, and with enough accumulation due to lack of water changes it hinders the fish in his growth, meaning the fish will stop growing. With water changes the inhibitor will be deluted and reduced in the fishies environment, and the fish can continue to grow. As an example one koi keeper told us about two specific koi ponds in his neighborhood. Both ponds had about the same volume of water, with more or less the same amount and sizes koi in there, and since they were in the same neighborhood, the same amount of life foods available to them like mosquito larvae and daphnia. One pond had a regular filter system with it, the ones we would have in a smaller version on our tanks - mechanical and biological filtration. Water changes were done on a regular basis once a week, always the same amount of water. The other pond also had a filter connected, but it had a continuous system where the water would be drawn from a well, conditioned and pumped into the pond, while the overflow constantly was putting water back into the environment. This pond had constantly fresh water coming for the koi. Both koi keepers fed their fish the same food (HiFeng growth food for koi), but the koi in the pond with the constant supply of fresh water had much bigger koi in there in a much shorter period of time. The growth inhibitor in that pond is constantly being swept out and away from the fish. NOw, you might say, these owners bought fish from different sources and thats one explanation on the different growth rate. But they took it further, they both bought a dozen goldfish from a local koi importer, from the same breeder in China, and each of the two put his fish into a separate pond on their properties. Same thing happened again - the goldfish in the pond with the constant fresh water grew bigger faster than the ones in the pond with the weekly water changes. This does not mean we should perform daily water changes in our tanks, but it means one thing - keep up the routine water changes, don't be lax in it, do a little extra for your fish, and one more thing..... Food and more feedings are not the only thing that you need to know about if you wonna have big fish. The growth rate of fish is a complex story, and involves a few other things than just putting exsessive amounts of food into our tanks and hope for the best.... So, lets roll out those buckets and containers, and the calendar, so we don't miss any of those very important water changes!
  12. Since I have heard so many praises about koi clay, I decided to buy some from Bonniesplants.com. That stuff is amazing! You can use it for a few different things. It makes your pond/tank water clearer. I never thought that that is possible, to have even more clearer water, but it was amazing! You can put it in with your water plants as fertilizer. Just mix it in with the soil or other substrate you are using.... It can go into the filter to help along the bio bugs. And you even can add it to your homemade gelfood! It enhances the fishies color like nothing else! His ingredients are calcium b.....(something, sorry, I through the package it came with away), and you can find more info about koi clay on Bonnies website.
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