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  1. Right now I am keeping bronze and peppered cories. They prefer cooler water than most cories, and can live in unheated, room temperature tanks quite nicely I do have a few pictures. I believe I have a picture of my 13 year old cory taken shortly before he passed away. I will take a look for them
  2. I have kept snails and cories together for years without problem. I think the snails will get used to the corys eventually, since cories don't bother snails (other than their activity). Some fish will eat snails and nip off their antennaes, but I have never seen a cory bother my snails in that way. Cories are great little fish. They are so animated and they have been very hardy for me. My oldest cory lived to be 13 years old
  3. I also thought I should mention, that when doing water changes, you should vacuum the gravel in the tank about once per week. Clean the glass on the front of the tank, and the sides if necessary, but leave the back glass intact. Beneficial bacteria grows on the glass. Also, what is the filter you are using on the tank?
  4. The red streaks are indicative of a water quality problem. Some fish are much more prone to showing signs of poor water than others. It is always strange how in a tank of fish, some will be fine, whereas one will be in distress. What you are doing now, i.e. the large water changes, will combat the red streaks in the fins. I would keep testing the water and if it gets up to 1 ppm, then do a large water change. I know this seems like a lot of work, but in the end, you will have a cycled tank and a healthy goldfish. You may indeed have two orandas. Some orandas have very little wen, and others have a lot. When you put the peas in, you can try and drop some in one part of the tank and see if the faster fish can get them. Then try and direct a couple near the slower fish. Once the faster one is munching on a pea, then you can probably get one or two near enough to the slower fish BTW, what amount of salt do you have in the water now?
  5. As long as the filter is strong enough to put a good current across the top of the tank, then extra aeration isn't necessary. This is especially true when water temperature is cool, and the tank isn't planted. Also, a 30 gallon tank with two fish is not heavily populated. For your next feeding, you could try feeding her a couple of squished peas. Peas act as a laxative for fish. Use frozen peas, and cook them lightly in a bit of water in the microwave. Then pop them from the shells and squish a bit between your fingers and feed. It is a good practice to feed veggies to your goldfish regularly. A couple of times a week, at least. I find that I can judge my water just by using my hand and matching it that way. It seems to work pretty well for me. If you don't feel confident doing that, you can purchase a floating type thermometer for a couple of dollars. I don't use aquarium salt on a regular basis in my tanks, but when dealing with frayed fins, aquarium salt is a good choice. A dosage of 1 teaspoon per gallon would be appropriate. I would suggest just using a good water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramine. I currently use Prime and I am very happy with it. The aquarium salt is a good idea to help with the frayed fins, but after the fins have healed, you can gradually remove it. Also, aquarium salt will help your fish cope with rising nitrites levels, when you tank goes into that cycling phase. I am glad that she is a bit more active. Please keep me posted and feel free to ask as many questions as necessary.
  6. Yes, do not worry about the poop. Often when you first purchase fish, they haven't eaten really well and they are stressed and they will have stringy, white poop. I would deal with the water change as soon as you can and try not to use too many chemicals I am going to check out Topfin Ammonia Remover on the web to see what it is. I am not familiar with it.
  7. I should also have said to not use any medications. This will only make things worse. Please keep me posted. BTW, goldfish do really well with large water changes.
  8. I would do the large water change asap. I have cycled tanks in the normal time frame doing up to 70% water changes per day. In my mind, once you have fish in the tank, the most important thing is keeping them healthy. The tank will cycle even with the large water changes. You could also use a water conditioner such as Prime or Amquel+ to help with ammonia and nitrite. When you do ammonia tests when using these products, take the reading right away, or you may get false positives. If your fish is suffering, I would do a big water change, even up to 70%.
  9. My froghead is co-existing quite nicely with a shubunkin. The shub is about 5-6" in body length.
  10. From reading your post, I think you are familiar with "cycling" a tank. What I would suggest, is a larger water change. I would do about 40% to counteract the ammonia and nitrite level. Check your levels tomorrow, and do another large water change, if necessary. Keep this up until you are reading 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and a low nitrate reading. Keep a very close eye on ammonia and nitrite levels until your tank is cycled. Do you know the ph of your water? Ammonia is more toxic at higher ph levels.
  11. Great news! I am so glad that Gizmo is on the mend
  12. Please keep us posted on their progress and I am glad that they are doing better.
  13. Like Devs, I always have Medi-Gold on hand and it is very good. I did buy Jungle Brand, but have not used it, so I cannot comment on its effectiveness. You may wish to invest in Medi-Gold, but in the meantime I would start with the Jungle Brand. I don't keep moor or telescope eyes, so I am not really up on their special requirements, so it is great that Devs is giving you some advice on their care.
  14. I think what has happened is that over time your fish have outgrown their tank and your set up is having a hard time coping. At 6" in size, you should have 10 US gallons per fish. If at all possible, you should upgrade to a larger tank. For the time being, I would suggest doing increased water changes. I would suggest doing 50% water changes three times per week for a couple of weeks, then drop down to 50% water changes at least once per week. Vacuum the gravel once per week and rinse out your filter material weekly. You could also add another filter to the tank, such as a hang on the back type with sponge media. You could add 1 tsp. of aquarium salt per gallon of water, as well. This will act as a tonic for your fish and aid in healing the spots. I think improved water quality will go a long way to improving your fish's health. How does your fish look today?
  15. Unfortunately, the pictures aren't clear enough for me to see the problem with the eye. It does sound like a bacterial problem, though. I would suggest keeping the water absolutely pristine, adding 1/8 tsp. of epsom salts per 5 gallons of water (in case it is popeye) and feeding Medi-Gold which is available online. If you need the links to where you can buy this, please let me know. The film on the eye should clear up pretty readily. Moors often have one eye larger than the other. Is the eye increasing in size dramatically over a short period of time?
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