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Everything posted by bekko

  1. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I'm old now too :>) Whatever I do gets done very slowly. Thank you all for your kind sentiments. -steve
  2. 2019 UPDATE Our goldfish business has been loosing money for a few years now. It got so bad that we could barely break even on the utility expenses…. let alone making anything for the hours put into it. It had long since become time to hang it up, but it’s also something I very much enjoy doing so we kept at it. Then, in January, a big tree fell down in a wind storm. A really big tree. The base of the trunk is about six to eight feet in diameter (photo attached).. What you cannot see in the photo is the fish hatchery building along with seventy-five glass tanks flattened by the impact. Adjacent to the hatchery are a fifteen lined ponds that now lie below a ten foot deep blanket of limbs and branches. You can't even get close enough to take a good photo of it. Removing it all is daughtning so we’re just going to turn it all into a garden architectural feature and see how it evolves. That part is going well so far. We still have other groups of ponds and above-ground tubs. We still have goldfish but many variety bloodlines were lost. We could put up a new building and start again in earnest but, really, what’s the point. So, for now at least, we’re out of business. I will probably cobble together some hatchery stuff in spring 2020. I always get the urge to grow fry in the spring. However, it may only be on a hobbyist scale. The fact that the web site no longer works is a whole different problem. A Chinese company is trying to steal our domain name and hacked our domain regisration account. I am told there is an investigation underway and that it will be fixed in a matter of days. To all those who has purchased fish from us in the past, we would like to express our heart-felt appreciation. It really is a fun thing to do and you gave me an excuse to do it full time. -steve
  3. Hard to tell from the photo, but I don't think it is damage. My guess is the fish was born that way. For sure, if it has been that way for a year it is not going to get any better. -steve
  4. I wouldn't worry too much about the ammonia. There are always small amounts of ammonia in the air. However, all silicone sealers are not equal. GE Silicone will only last about a year. It has a lot of talc as a reinforcing agent for general caulking. However, the talc allows the material to absorb water after it dries in a submerged application. This weakens the bond to the glass. Aquarium sealer is ridiculously expensive, but it is expensive for a reason. It is designed to do the job. -steve
  5. Well, I told a huge lie. Sorry about that. I had the obscure Japanese varieties mixed up and those are not Shonai, but Jyokko. Here is what Tom had to say: "Steve those are Jyokko, bred in Japan by Tamakin's friend who uses the internet name Tinkerbell. Jyokko was discussed briefly on Goldfish Shack (about trying to import some, also photos) and also Raffles Gold. I tried to connect with Michio about importing some but he has not responded for months now. But I'm glad to see the buzz about them, sooner or later they will be shipped over. My understanding is they are a Bristol spin-off. Tom" Lynda, you were more correct than I because he thinks they are a Bristol spin-off. -steve
  6. Lynda, I still think they are Shonai. Bristols have more substance in the tail and the dorsal and other fins are not as long. I will ask Tom to have a look at them. -steve
  7. I agree Daryl. They pretty good to me. Funny about show fish... You never know how well it will display for the judges until the time comes. And, exhibiting personality and "presence" really helps its chances when the judges are evaluating. -steve
  8. They look sort of like Bristols, but are Japanese Shonai (or Syounai). Those in the video are really exceptional. -steve
  9. It takes several months for the telescope eyes to start to develop. -steve
  10. The green ones are metallic scale. Some will demelanize (change color) to metallic red and white in a month or so. It only takes a few weeks for an individual to change color but they will not all change at the same time. Others will slowly get darker and become black over time. The light color (clear) ones will slowly develop patches of calico color. You may, or may not, have any matt (no color). It depends on whether there are any calico genes in the males. -steve
  11. The ones with the black "button" eyes are either calico or matt. The ones with the pigment in the eye are either metallic or calico. Some calico fish have one button eye and one pigmented eye. By now, you should be able to see a difference in body color of the clear scale versus metallic scale offspring. -steve
  12. They may be chasing other males, but the chasing activity is usually sparked by female reproductive phermones in the water. When the female gets a little closer to spawning, the males will figure out who it is they should be chasing. -steve
  13. It depend somewhat on the variety. The fancier varieties have more fry which can not make it even under the best of conditions. Some batches of fry will be better than others too - even when they are from the same parents and the age of fry is only separated by several weeks. Losing 5-10% in two weeks is a little high, but not too bad. It is possible to have fry survival which is too good. Once you get your routine down, you can keep alive fry which have no chance of living to adulthood because of genetic issues. You may prefer to loose these early in the game because they are consuming resources (food, space, water quality) which should be invested in the stronger individuals. Normally you will not experience a fluke problem for the first three to four weeks. However, Prazi does no harm and is tolerated well by fry. -steve
  14. When spawning, the male bumps or pushes the female's abdomen to get her to release eggs and synchronize the release of eggs and milt. The tubercles have a function here as they help the male to get a good "grip" on the female. They help him apply some pressure instead of just slipping off as he pushes her. -steve hopkins
  15. bekko


    Wakin are pond fish and were not bred or selected to be viewed from the side. They are tough and can live for a decade or so in a suitable pond. Wakin give the most dramatic effect when viewed from the top. If you are going to keep goldfish in an aquarium, then why not get fish which were bred and selected to be kept in an aquarium?
  16. Both UPS and FedEx knowingly ship fish all the time. Sometimes the box says "LIVE FISH", and sometimes it doesn't. You are asking for trouble if you try to conceal the fact that it's live fish. It is hard to mistake a box that rocks back and forth because of the water sloshing inside. The important thing is to have them packaged properly, know what you're doing, and ACT like you know what you're doing. They will get nervous and may reject it if the packaging looks unprofessional or you cry and tell them to "Take good care of Squiggy" as they pick up the box.
  17. Obvious these are junk goldfish they throw in the bowl. They are the culls generated in trying to breed nice goldfish for you and I. If the florist didn't buy these junk fish, then what would be their fate? They could end up in the feeder-fish tank at the LFS and become oscar food. In some states, they could be sold as bait for fishing and end up impaled on hook. If the market is weak, the breeder would just throw them away. The flower vase might be their best shot at a long life. They are still junk though.
  18. bekko


    You can cull for tail orientation when they are about 3/8 inch. The adults will probably eat these. However, the serious culling cannot start until they demelanize. That's at about 5/8 inch for orandas, but much later for some other varieties. You will not be able to get the adults to eat too many of these big boys. If you're not ruthless, then don't breed goldfish.
  19. bekko


    As few as 20-30 per spawn at one year old, 100-200 at two years old, 300 or more at three years old. The numbers start to fall off again after they reach 4-5 year old. If you don't want to cull, then don't bother raising the fry. If you let natural selection keep the number of fish at a reasonable level, the worst fish will survive and the best will be the first to perish. An alternative may be to put a kiddie pool outside. Select the best fish and give them your best care. Throw the rest in the kiddie pool and let them fend for themselves. If you're lucky, a heron will find them take care of the situation for you.
  20. Males release 'milt'. A whitish milky-colored water usually indicates a bacteria bloom. It is probably not a pathogenic bacteria. A bacteria bloom is often harmless, but unsightly nonetheless.
  21. For one gallon of water, add: 1 teaspoon of Amquel or ChlorAm-X 1-1/2 tablespoons of solar salt, and 1/4 teaspoon of slime coat. Use a cold pack during the summer. Always double-bag. The shippers require that the styrofoam box be inside a cardboard box. You can get a shot of oxygen at a pet store or welding shop. One gallon is safe for 25 two-inch fish for 36 hours, and at least 10-15 fish for 48 hours.
  22. Not a town, a ahupua'a, which is a section of the land from the mountain to the sea that contained nearly all the resources the original Hawaiians required for survival. The closest town is Kaneohe.
  23. This week, I have been trying to collect eggs from a tank of orandas which are 11 months old. They are still too young to produce any meaningful numbers - maybe 20-30 eggs per spawn. Their two-year-old parents make several hundred eggs per spawn.
  24. Good brine shrimp cysts will hatch 200,000 per gram. Young fry can eat 3-6 at a sitting. I don't know how many that is in a day - maybe 20-30 per day? After a few weeks, they can probably eat 10-times that amount. OSI has a distributor in the Netherlands, but I do bot see UK. Their Artificial Plankton really is good stuff. http://www.oceanstarinternational.com/osi/html/contacts.html Another good dry fry food is made by Inve in Belgium. The one made for marine shrimp postlarvae is good starting about day 10. For 2-3 week old fry, there is a product called Cyclop-eeze. http://www.cyclop-eeze.com/ It is copepods harvested from an arctic lake. Comes as frozen or freeze-dried. I think the frozen is better but dried is available in UK. bekko
  25. The best no-fuss off-the-shelf fry starter food I have used is Artificial Plankton - Rotifer (also called 'AP') by Ocean Star International. It's also less expensive than many of the other dry larval diets. Here is one of the places where it can be purchased: http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseac...d/5864/cid/1515 Brine shrimp are not very nutritious unless they are fed immediately after hatching when they (the brine shrimp) still have their yolk reserves. Brine shrimp can be made more nutritious by enriching them with algae or one of the off-the-shelf products before they are fed to the fish fry. However, brine shrimp can be used as a source of bulk as long as the essential fatty acids are provided in other foods. Nothing beats green water and an assortment of natural live food.
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