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Everything posted by awrieger

  1. Does Ammo-lock say on the label that it detoxifies chloramine? And/or chlorine? You may have both ammonia and ammonia-chlorine (chloramine) in your water supply. If so, you'll need something (like Prime) that can break the chloramine apart and then detoxify both the resulting ammonia and chlorine. And are you testing nitrate before or after the water change? Because if the water you're adding has 20ppm nitrate, then your tank can't be 5ppm. Even starting with no nitrate in the tank, doing a 25% water change would automatically start your reading at 5ppm and then the fish will add to that so you should have more nitrate than you're reading. PS. I agree with you. My tapwater is similar and I wonder what monstrous bugs are in there to begin with that they feel the need to add so much ammonia and chloramine in order to kill whatever it is.
  2. Unless you're doing a fishless cycle, Cheeky's tank won't cycle now you've moved him out, so you'll likely have to go through the cycle again anyway when you put him back in. Test NH and NO2 twice a day while cycling (morning and evening) and do water changes to keep NO2 from getting above 2 if you can. I'd also recommend adding aquarium salt to stop any NO2 damaging Cheeky's gills. Any NO2 levels at all during cycling may not seem to visibly harm him, but it may permanently damage his gills enough to affect his ability to uptake oxygen and stunt his future growth. You can use a de-nitriter like Prime to chemically detoxify NO2, but it only works as long as the Prime is in the water, which isn't long after you add it. Salt doesn't chemically detoxify the NO2, but it does render it harmless on the fish's gills, and stays in the water permanently so it's always working as insurance in case there's a NO2 spike overnight for instance.
  3. Follow the instructions on the label. If it says switch your filter off, it may be because the treatment will kill the beneficial bacteria in your filter. Or they may say remove any carbon instead so as not to remove the treatment from the water too quickly. If it doesn't specifically say don't mix treatments, err on the side of caution and don't do it. Chemicals in one product can possibly react with chemicals in another product in ways their manufacturers didn't intend.
  4. If it's just the oldest glass going cloudy while the rest are fine, I wouldn't panic and start dosing your tank with chemicals yet as they are quite sensitive. I'd suggest trying the simple options first and see if they work. One of my big old ones started going cloudy the other day with his antennae pulled back. Simply raising the water temperature to 28C (82F) made him go clear again. I can't actually tell which one had the problem now they all look the same again.
  5. I've never had any luck using phosphate removers with goldfish as the goldfish food contains more phosphate than these things can remove anyway (so you're adding it faster than it can be removed), so a water change is still the best option in my opinion. You have a free sample though, so you may as well try it I guess and see if it works! PS. I actually ADD phosphate to my planted aquarium to control algae. If it's in a 1:7 ratio with nitrate, algae doesn't grow.
  6. Very true, Brian. They're genetically modified Danios I believe, and if they breed, their offspring carry the gene too. They've banned them in the UK I think, or are working on it. They need to establish laws pretty quickly to regulate this sort of stuff, or we'll be seeing glow-in-the-dark rabbits and purple mice for sale soon.
  7. That sounds like adult fish lice. Pick them off by hand if possible, then use an anti-parasite treatment. No need to quarantine the one fish you found with a louse as you'll have to treat the whole tank anyway repeatedly in case there are eggs or larvae as well. The fish get sick and die when the lice break the skin and internal infection sets in.
  8. Lemons are extremely peaceful. Unlike Serpae's, who are fin nippers. So are Black Skirts. More so when there are only 6 or less of them so they're feeling insecure (and hence defensive), so they're not ideal for a peaceful community tank. I would suggest getting more peaceful fish and also keep them in larger numbers of only two types - like 9 more Lemons and 12 Neons. I personally think it not only looks better seeing a large school of one type compared to lots of different types of scattered fish, but the fish are also more comfortable with safety in numbers. The more there are, the more relaxed and safe they feel and enjoy their tank more. Neons occupy the bottom half of the tank, whereas the Lemons occupy the top half, so it would be good to to get one of each type to complement each other. Top half schooling peaceful fish: Lemon Tetras, Harlequins Rasboras, Black Neons Bottom Half schooling peaceful fish: Neon Tetras, Rummy Nose Tetras Neons don't school tightly like Lemons and Harlequins do though unless they're scared. Rummies do, but Rummies are more delicate when buying and transferring them (you need to be very slow and patient) so many people lose a few within the first few days. PS. Cories do better in groups of 6 or more as well.
  9. Thank you very much the extremely generous offer, Jen! My home office where I have all my tanks looks very much like your own fish room, so you'd be literally doubling your own workload, so it is very generous of you, thanks! You can relax about the thought of taking all that work on though! The problem was simply because I overestimated my own superhuman powers of recovery, so I didn't plan it well at all. It really knocked me around far more than I was expecting. I'm going to get some outdoor ponds so if it ever comes to planning to be away for a while in the future, I'll just move them outdoors. I've seen some commercial 8' x 4' fibreglass rectangular breeder containers (2,500 litres each), which are actually cheaper than the last big tank I recently bought. Thanks again!
  10. Thanks Jorge. Unfortunately I can't resist posting my pics as soon as I take them, which disqualifies them from pic of the week (you can only enter pics not posted elsewhere already).
  11. awrieger


    Here's a picture I posted in my other goldfish picture thread recently of the left side of the tank showing what it looked like with all the Amazons putting out hundreds of runners and plantlets - literally an impenetrable jungle. Looks much better now I think with only just the two Amazons now.
  12. Thank you. I'm glad to be back! Not as active as before, but I do read most threads and look at everyone's great fish even if I don't reply. Andrea, it's just me and the fish. To be honest, it's simply too much hard work to ask anyone to look after them as a favour. I did leave instructions with my mother to contact the nearby lfs to come and take them all away if I didn't come back. Fuji (the one in my avatar pic) is the one you mean, I think. She's still on her side. Last Christmas was the first anniversary of her being like that and my hand feeding her every day. She's lost a lot of weight recently because I only feed her once a day now. She's sharing her tank with Tiku the golfball pearlscale, the other invalid fish with the same problem, but who's still growing and fatter than ever. Despite their lack of swimming and balance, they both seem otherwise quite resilient and I keep thinking about breeding them if it's possible - Fuji with my only other ranchu Sundae, and Tiku with the Hama Nishiki here: btw, that little oranda turned out to be so stunted he's barely grown in size at all since I got him, but his wen is growing immensely so he's mostly head down now from the weight of it.
  13. awrieger


    Thanks Fred. It's quite fascinating having a large planted tank like this as many of the fish disappear in amongst the plants, often in their own special areas. For instance, the 24 Cardinal Tetras all occupy the far left bottom of the tank in amongst the plants, but you can only see one in the photo. All the Glass Catfish occupy the area just right of the middle, also in amongst the plants. And I know there are 4 loaches in there somewhere because I see one every now and then, which is a rare occurance sort of like a Bigfoot sighting, lol. All those 'safe' areas the fish feel protected in make them feel secure and relaxed, so their colours are very vibrant too. What I also really like is that it's a very active tank with so many fish, but all the occupants get along extremely peacefully so it's a very relaxing tank for me too.
  14. Thanks guys. I managed to do the filter cleans and water changes on all the other tanks before going into hospital, so all the rest made it through it okay. Except for their tank as I ran out of time to do theirs even though they were already overdue their water change, so I seriously regret not finding the time now as they paid the most serious price for it. I really don't know what I'll do if I have to go away for an extended period of time. It's something I've always put off thinking about but now it's something I should really have a plan for just in case as I don't really have anyone who would or could do all those water changes (or even understand why they need to be done). A week is probably the most I'd be prepared to leave them for and not expect severe losses. Maybe getting a large plastic pond like a kiddies pool would be the best option.
  15. Antique Austrian goldfish bowl From the written description, it sounds like it was used much like some of those horrendous wedding planners do who think having live fish dying on the table in front of you while you're eating is a good idea.
  16. awrieger


    An update. I've removed most of the Amazon Swords in the background and left only two because they just get too big and put out dozens of runners, and have rescaped the background so it provides a proper aquascape when viewed from the both sides of the tank now. When you looked at the reverse side before it was just a wall of Amazons providing a background for the front side. No pic of the reverse side yet as it's still growing in. Anubias grow slowly, but you can see the central one has gone from a single stem and four leves to half a dozen stems and lots of leaves. The dwarf Anubias are growing thicker but stay short. I spooked most of the fish while taking the photo so you can only see a few in this pic. There are about 60-80 fish (I've lost count, some die, new ones are born) currently in this tank I think.
  17. Thank you everyone. Unfortunately you may notice that the pics of Foghorn and Apache are now missing from the previous posts as I've removed them from my goldfish gallery (and my signature). I went into hospital recently for cancer (I'm okay now, I think) and alas I was unable to tend to all my tanks properly while I was recovering. I tried as best I could, but I have too many tanks and these two suffered poor water quality and succumbed. I tried moving them into the big tank with the other Ryukins but it was too late. Once they had the white stringy poop their days were numbered. Vale Foghorn and Apache. You were great fish and I feel so bad I wasn't able to help you when you needed me. This is one of the last pics of them. PS. I've now re-arranged my goldie tanks from 7 down to 5. Whether I re-fill the two now empty tanks with new goldies, I'm not sure at the moment.
  18. Indeedy I do clean my canisters once a week or even more frequently if I can. I have a sore back! The issue I find with the sponge filter alone is regarding the total dissolved solids and mulm in the tank where harmful heterotrophic Aeromona bacteria feed off it and can quickly build to levels which overcomes the fish's immunity. There is really no difference in that situation if the mulm is inside the canister instead either, but the addition of a UV clarifier/sterilizer on the canister outflow would kill any Aeromona before they returned into the tank. It doesn't eradicate them completely, but it does help control their levels at a safe amount. This is an easier setup than adding a separate UV and pump on a sponge-filtered tank I think. The frequent, often 100%, water changes by Asian goldie owners achieves the same purpose of keeping those bacteria levels down. I also believe the presence of a pre-filter sponge would mean the beneficial bacteria colonies would simply grow there on the sponge (exactly as on an air-driven sponge filter) instead of inside the canister itself where the rest would starve and die off. First-served, so to speak.
  19. Gemini 2: Sundae: Glass Catfish: Black Neon. These fish are amazing - I was watching a mosquito buzzing around the tank and when it got really close to the water surface, one of these guys zapped up and snapped it for dinner!
  20. And here are some more pics from before which I haven't posted before. The two anniversary boys again: Ferdinand: Apache: Apache with Foghorn:
  21. Three weeks ago was the anniversary of Suzy and Buzz's arrival, and they're still around! So I took a couple of pics today to prove it, lol. Suzy. He's a fatty. And Buzz. Amazingly survived that scare and the burn. And this tank needs a bit of trimming. I might swap some of the Amazons out and try some stem plants in the background again after all this time.
  22. Hi Kimberley. What you have there is the stunting effect of growth inhibiting hormones. Fish generally exude pheromones which when allowed to build up to high enough concentrations in the water will suppress the fish's growth. In goldfish it stunts the entire fish's body, keeping it small. In Oscars on the other hand, it only affects portions of the fish like the gill plates and mouth which stop growing while the rest of fish keeps growing. A weird phenomenon. So basically the bit on the edge of the gill plate which looks like an indentation is the bit that has stopped growing and isn't keeping up with the rest of the fish as it grows. Another sure sign is if the lower jaw starts looking disjointed or bent out of shape as one side isn't growing as fast as the other. If the jaw distorts enough eventually the fish won't be able to eat any more. You can't cure what's already happened, but you can prevent it becoming worse via simply doing more frequent water changes to keep the pheromone levels down, just like keeping nitrate levels down. In fact, use the nitrates as the measure and try and keep them below 20ppm at all times. Oscar breeders actually suggest a large tank (ie, 55 gallons per fish) to avoid this problem without having to do such frequent water changes.
  23. PS. I'll just also add that you've raised a legitimate discussion point about the secret of white, Comet. I'm finding that the red Grolux tubes I'm using to keep the blacks is making some of my fish's white scales go orange. Even on their bellies due to the light reflecting back up off the glass of the barebottom. And also the reds are still fading to orange. So Grolux may work to keep the blacks, but not so good for reds and whites (which it makes both go gold). So perhaps combining a blue 10,000K 'sunlight' tube with the Grolux would be a possible combination. I've tried using a UV reptile tube, but that gives the tank an eery green tinge which looks terrible so it's not something people would want to have on their tank to make it look nice.
  24. I suspect you don't need to keep them in the dark at all, just use a standard cheap fluorescent tube that come with some aquarium light fixtures. The special 'sunlight' tubes you can buy for aquariums for example were actually developed for humans first. It was found that people who arrived at the office tower early and spent all day there under fluoro lights (even having lunch in the cafeteria with fluoro lights) so it would already be dark again before they left for home eventually became pale and ill with vitamin deficiencies etc. So they set about simulating natural sunlight in office environments to improve people's health by inventing new types of fluoro tubes. And now we use them on our fish. So standard cheap aquarium tubes are pretty much the same as standard cheap office fluoroescent lights, which are virtually just one small step up from being in the dark anyway when it comes to the spectrum we and the fish need to keep our pigmentation and health. Which is why a lot of people's fish lose colour anyway even with a light on the tank. Even aquarium plants wither and die under standard fluoros for the lack of light they need. Sunlight tubes and the Grolux tubes are much better, but as Daniel says, nothing can beat natural sunlight to simulate natural sunlight! All the solid bright red and white and black fish everyone buys are like that because they are raised and bred in outdoor ponds under natural sunlight in China and the tropics of SE Asia. We can only hope to get as close as possible to natural sunlight to keep our fish's colours in our indoor aquariums by using special light tubes etc. PS. Daniel, no pigment in a fish's scale actually results in a cobalt blue coloured fish like the top fish of your last picture. The transparent scales allow the blue blood and flesh to show through on the body and red around the gills (on younger fish) where the blood is more oxygen saturated. From what I've read, I believe there are actually three types of pigment present or absent in goldfish scales (which makes goldies unique among fish) layered one on top the other to produce different combinations of effects. They are basically the nacreous (metal or absence of it, matte), the colours (gold, white etc), and then the blacks on top. So a cobalt blue fish like yours can only ever be matte blue due to the absence of the metal (and other two). These cobalt blues are the 'true blues' in my opinion, whereas the more common 'blues' people refer to are just a dusky coating of blacks, but that's another topic!
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