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Everything posted by captk

  1. No worries. Glad to help. Just post your KH result when you have them and I'll see what we can do.
  2. The test kit should be good for a year or two. Don't know if you got a false reading as you have tested several different sets of water. Like I said, do a baseline test with something of known pH value should give you a good idea if the kit is at fault.
  3. What is the range of your pH test kit. Some are board range, others are spit between low and high range. You have to be careful that you are reading the right chart for the kit. If ever in doubt, do a baseline test of some distilled water which should be 7 and a solution of baking soda which should be 8.3.
  4. Yes, I would be interested to see your KH reading. Most metabolic processes in the tank tends to reduce pH so a sudden rise in pH is rare in comparison.
  5. OBTW, if you have any fish left in the tank, DO NOT add ammonia to the tank. The amount of nitrifying bacteria will drop as the amount of ammonia is reduced because of the lower fish load but it will settle down at a new equalibrium. It won't stop working, it just need less bacteria to get the job done.
  6. Hi Imogen, You need to test your GH and KH which are your general hardness and carbonate hardness. It is difficult to fight against the pH of the source water because everytime you add or change water, you are causing the pH to change which is not nice to the fish. I'm surprised that your source water pH is changing so much. Is it city water or well water? On way to stablise the water is to increase KH by adding baking soda. The pH of baking soda is about 8.3 so if you add the right quantity of the stuff, your water will stablise at about 8.3, 8.4 which is fine for goldies.
  7. I'm so sorry about yellowface. How are the other two fish going?
  8. Damage and injuries will heal, Rob (or Pat). As long as they recovers, there is hope.
  9. I'm so sorry, Rob. That was a bit of a surprise as whiteface wasn't the one that you were really concerned about. Unfortunately, that is the problem with bacterial infections, they can creep up on you and it does not have to develop into dropsy before it kills.
  10. Good point, Annette! I almost forgot your success stories. Rob, if you catch them early, there is a much better chance of a cure.
  11. Rob, looking serious, mate. Forget the peas. Try soaking and mushing up some medicated pellets (with dimetridazol) and try to feed that with a syringe as far back into their throat as possible. There is no guarantee that it will work because if they don't want to eat, they won't eat. Well, we'd better start the treatment regime. Antibiotics (done), pristine water (your department), lots of aeration (check that one, Rob), warmth (yep). I would up the salt to 0.3% over 24hrs but that is up to you. You can add epsom salt if you like but that is your call.
  12. Oops, sorry, Rob. Didn't mean to confuse you. Too much info, too little space.
  13. Hi Sharon, I know the mantra too. Maracyn 1 & 2, 78*F temp, pristine water, lots of aeration, epsom salt and pray. I don't usually comment on the epsom unless I'm heavily involved because it is harmless. Epsom salt does have its use in treating fish. If you imbed a grain in a pea and feed it to the fish, it will purge it. We use epsom salt in humans to treat similar symptom (in fact, this dates back to your Civil War era) so people extended this to fish and assumed that it will do good. The problem is one of evolution. Fish hardly ever drink any water that they are kept in (hey, you won't want to either! ). The key method of them taking in minerals and other chemicals is by the method known as ion transfer within their gills. They are equiped with different ion pumps for different chemicals. In fact, you see that at work when you dose a tank with salt to protect against nitrIte poisoning. The fish is tricked into absorbing the salt rather than the nitrIte ion (which uses the same ion pumps) thus preventing the fish from getting poisoned. Now, here is the rub, fish have not evloved in a world where epsom salt (hydrated magnesium sulfate) exist naturally so it never evolved the ion pump to absorb them. In effect, it just swim through it and that's basically it. It doesn't do any harm but it doesn't do much good neither. It will raise the GH, BTW. So when you combined with all the other things that is done to treat dropsy and with success rate being low, it is near impossible to say whether epsom salt actually helped or it is mostly the antibiotics/warmth/aeration. You just repeat the mantra and hope for the best. If Rob really wants to add epsom salt then so be it. If someone say that epsom salt will definitely cure dropsy then I beg to differ. Now, salt, fluid retention and osmetic balance, that is another story.
  14. Well, it is a bit of an ethical issue. If they are happy to accept sick fish (and know that they are sick) then that is fine.
  15. Hi Emily, certainly, Rob can go bare bottom (okay, stop laughing!) I considered that as well. It certainly has its benefits but it is also a look&feel type of issue as well and I don't want Rob to think that it is a must do.
  16. Hi rob, sorry, mate, have to do some chores this morning. Okay, a bit of ground to cover. I've done some more searching on dimetridazol and it appears to be used in aquaculture as well. In fact, a lot of first world countries have banned imports of fish that test positive to dimetridazol. That is because a lot of farmed fish from certain countries are kept in very overstocked and in poor water conditions so they routinely feed them dimetridazol to try to head off any infections but that is a no-no for food fish. Ok, back to your problem. I agree, you might have to nuke your tank and for one day, bucket to bucket is as good as an uncycled QT but no feeding. If your QT has a filter then it may be a better option. Unless you are using a very big tub. As for the gravel. Most people will just rinse it in water but some do boil them in water. Unless you are going to use an under gravel filter, you don't need a very deep gravel bed. If one of the fantail is also bottom sitting, you might not be able to return any of them. With dropsy treatment, we are really behind the 8-ball. The corner stone of this treatment is one or more antibiotics to hit the bacterias hard while we do other things to the water/tank/environment to support them and de-stress them. I suppose you will have to hope that dimetridazol will do the trick, 28*C is a good temp. I would increase salt gradually to 0.1% and if dropsy is confirmed, up it again to 0.3% over 24 hrs (0.1% every 12 hrs). Forget epsom salt. It doesn't do anything other then to increase general hardness. The story about epsom salt curing dropsy is a myth. I hope I've covered most things, please ask if you have any questions.
  17. Morning Rob, I'm glad that they are all alive. What is your tank temp? You want it up around 78*F to make sure their immune system is at max efficiency. With Sydney weather at the mo, it should be right up there now. I'm afraid Annette is right. There really is not a lot of treatment options open to us. Do your best with what is available is just about sums it up. Step up your water changes to make sure the water is in top condition.
  18. Hi Rob, How's yellowface now? dimetridazol is an antimicrobial (man made) that is mainly used to treat birds and farm animals! I'm not too sure about regular feeding of this to fish. Could have side effects. The finrot treatment is fairly standard in its composition. Be careful when handling anything with malachite green as it is a known cariogen(sp?). I'm not convinced that yellowface as any fungal problem in the first place.
  19. Hi Pat, you are most welcome! Glad to lend a hand. Thanks for the offer. I've always told Annette that one day we should get together, sip wine and watch my fishies going around the pond. Have to run now, will check back in the evening. Good luck!
  20. No worries. I have a few things to do today so I'll be awol after lunch but post a reply anyway. Annette should be around. I'm curious what the shop suggest you use to treat your fish.
  21. Most anaerobic bacterias live in the gravel or inside hollow ornaments where there is little flow of oxygen rich water. When you remove the trops and prepared the tank for the goldies, you might have stirred up the gravel bed and introduced some bad bacterias into the water. It doesn't take much to start an infection if the fish has no immunity to them. I've not heard of dimetco either. Just remember this, any effective bacterial treatment will have an impact on your bio-filter as well. It is the nature of the beast so watch your water params.
  22. Rob, it is impossible for us to have a sterile tank. The nitrification process required a healthy population of good nitrifying bacterias. What we are worried about are anaerobic bacterias that are the source of most bacteria infection, rots and hydrogen sulfate. When you say you treated with antibiotics, what was it? A lot of the stuff we get in Oz are actually antibacterials/antiseptics rather than true antibiotics like penicillin. The problem with relocating them is stress. Stress reduce their immune response and more stress only make them weaker. If the small tank is not cycled then they will have to live through that as well and more stress. If the HT is cycled then it might be okay.
  23. okay, this is getting more serious. There might be a nasty bacteria in your tank that the new fish has no resistance to. The best thing to do normally is to feed them medicated (antibiotic) food like medi-gold. Unfortunately, this type of food is not available in Australia due to stupid govt regulations. We can still get some old school antibiotics like triple sulfa but you need something that will get absorbed fast. Visit your flav aquarium and ask them for something to treat internal bacterial infection. If they say Pimafix, try something else.
  24. okay, before my brain suffers a total shutdown, I can only say that I don't think your fish is that sick. The initial bottom sitting might just be stress induced by the relocation and new environment. The yellow face I have covered previously. Mouth movement, hard to call, could be nothing. All the key indicators are negative. Water good, mouth clear, poop good, fin good, eyes clear, no slime, etc, etc. If we have to pinpoint a problem then we are looking at something fairly exotic and will need more intrusive procedurces. I'm open to suggestions but I really can't call him sick. I would suggest that you take it easy for a few days. Monitor him and feed him normally but no overfeeding. Don't spook or stress him and just let things settle down. If there are any developments, let us know ASAP.
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