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Everything posted by maniacholic

  1. guppies don't produce that much ammonia... maybe you can buy a quarter worth of commons to begin, then give it back to the lfs... heh
  2. A good way to start green water is to have only 10%-30% of the water turn green first even is it means to give the fish less space then needed for a few days, this would make an area more concentrated in amonia, which would jump start the green water algae. The best way of doing this is by having a low quality fish produce the amonia so that the fish participating in this competition would remain stress free. (no complaints please) but this is a common technique in grooming. Large fins may tend to grow larger in proportion causing a fish to use more energy to keep it up and pointed. But hey if you can get the fish to keep it's tail up if it becomes large you get my vote~ it's a difficult thing to do.
  3. I just think it's going to be difficult for maintaining a pointed tail and dorsal fin. They look a bit on the large side.
  4. ... I think gia is at a disadvantage.... judging by the fin proprotion to the body
  5. high protein does not necessarily lead to SBD, frequent constipation does, the alert should be feed a high protein diet with little to no fiber can cause SBD as that will lead to constipation
  6. There is a connection with white trails and internal parasite.
  7. perhaps your gel food is highly concentrated and is causing constipation. Try making a bit with a bit more water to see if it helps.
  8. try feeding algae pellets or the likes to see if there's a saMe occurence when using that.
  9. heh true but I don't think most of those topic specificly state what green water is exactly in there first post, I think this user wants a clearer explanation... although we can't get clearer then to say greenwater is a high protein single cellular algae, that processes amonia.
  10. Please check your poop level now and then to see if the current diet is still efficient. Poop should be short and as thick as spaghetti or a big thicker with larger goldfishes with nothing else trailing, the color should corespond to the food in the diet. With all the new fishfood people are trying I think this is one of the most important tip people should keep in mind.
  11. Shoulda did a bit of research before asking such a blunt question, mate. Greenwater is water filled with free-floating unicellular algae. It acts as a natural filtration system and also a great food supplement. It's commonly used by Asian goldfish afficionados to groom their fish. Here's a link for more info on greenwater: http://geocities.com/greenngoldsg/greenwater-frame.html heh take it easy, most of these guys in the forums are westerners, the goldfish developement here are a bit slow, we have no tosakins or jikins here. Luckily I live around chinatown, shipments from asian importers are mundane here.
  12. I suggest bloodworms as a source of protein
  13. Omega one is great with the low ash amount, and is great for wen growth and size growth, both in length and girth which is great for all goldfishes. progold is good for preventing SBD a very common disorder in ryukins and demekins and it is also easy to digust but the ash content is a bit higher. So it depends on whether or not you're raising ryukins or demekins. I use both since I'm raising butterflies and ranchus.
  14. Actually raising the amount of bloodworms in the diet is good enough, although diversity is good also it is not really needed when aiming for growth.
  15. Actually yellow can be reffered to as gold so it is a good color for raising, however yellow is not that good in competitions when it's down to color judging since you can't really have things become more "yellower" but you can have things that are redder.
  16. Imagine that color on a ryukin
  17. live shrimp might be infected with diseases, and they won't live long in fresh water.
  18. Don't forget to mention how easy shrimp is for a goldfish to digest.
  19. He he all my fish is nowhere near show standard but I love them to bits so I agree with you on that, BUT without the decades of careful selective breeding and making of breed standard the goldfish hobby wouldn't arrive to where it is now and we won't have orandas, ryukins, fantails, ranchu etc etc & we'll just have a bunch of mixed up mutts and whatnots, and I highly doubt the hobby would reach the level of popularity like today. So, selective breeding, culling, and adhering to standard as closely as possible is MUST for the longevity and continuous existence of this hobby, BUT we should love ALL the fish in our possession, whether they're show standard or not 529180[/snapback] well said D_golem BTW every fancy goldfish is from the production of human's selective breeding, and they won't survive if it wasn't for humans since fancy goldfishes are actually flaws from the original replicator. So it is indeed ideal to have a "human standard" since this production is infact fruits of human investments is there anything that doesn't make sense up there?
  20. you don't need to defrost frozen foods, in fact feeding by the cubes are better for water quality as you actually don't want the blood worms to disolve. the white strands that may look like blood worms might be misquito larvaes, occasionally those get mixed in with blood worms as the 2 larvaes shares the same type of habitat. You don't need brine shrimp once a goldfish is able to comsume blood worms or actual shrimp, which are better in nutrients.
  21. well cos the orandas are not that good to start with. Greenwater method is great for grooming fish. But ryukins tend to need more space than most double-tailed fancies. Just look at daryl's Sterling a 55 gal just for himself? 529036[/snapback] I think they got 50 gallon tubs here in the US, most often found at the farming supply store
  22. heh atleast it isn't gonna be as bad as there oranda reviews. BTW jason you should try using the green water mehod for a better body shape, most ryukins I see are shaped like coins, so you outta wait till after you're done grooming to post in that board.
  23. try crushed freeze dried bloodworms, maybe that might be better. There are alot of other foods for fries, here's a small list: Boiled then crushed egg yolds Crushed pellets (some swear by crushed pro-gold) Crushed flakes (easier on the hands, I know omega one makes flakes) Daphnia (there are many different types of daphnia from sizes ranging from almost microscopic to visible, they come in frozen or live) And alot more
  24. In my goldfish's diet I choose to give progold to ryukings, demekins, and smaller fries since progold is made specificly for easy digestion and for a SBD free goldfish, which ryukins, demekins, and smaller goldfishes needs. I'll choose no other staple food for ryukins and demekins since ryukins and demekins are very SBD proned. For other goldfishes I give them omega one since it has the least ash in it's nutrtional value, Ash are useless components to a fish's diet and so it's better to have lower ash. In my goldfish's diet schedule it's Morning: spirulina or vegie enriched pellets/flakes Mid day: Krill Afternoon: staple food Night: bloodworms All of the foods are fed in very little amounts and in 3 hours intervals per feeding.
  25. I myself am sstill looking for a perfect calico Ryukin, so I don't have any yet Calico ryukins are hard to come by... maybe next year I'll find one.
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