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maniacholic

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Everything posted by maniacholic

  1. I got a few good ryukins at the moment, but I'm looking for some high backed butterfly moor. Of course it's not as easy to find those so I'm planning to get 1 Black moor for the time being.
  2. Go for the one which has a larger matrix even if the GPH is lower, a thorough cleaning is better then a half done job.
  3. Having plants to take care of nitrate is a really bad idea for goldfish raising, you'll need to change your water every week no matter what, unless you want green water. Get a 1200 gallon per hour filter is a good start if you plan to keep 10 GFs, and keep in mind the larger the filter's surface area the better. Try to buy a few healthy feeder fishes, 1$-2$ for 4 or so and cycle your tank after every large maintenance. Good thing to do is give the feeders to some arowana raiser or back to the pet shop afterwards, it's not really doing anything evil, it's just using the resources you have offered to you (you'd cycled your tank for a dollar which is a lot easier) Gravel is a nightmare in large amounts And that's mainly all you have to know that might be different from a 20 gallon tank.
  4. Side note, ryukins are prone for SBD problems so a short tail is more hardy as it has less stress. A long tail ryukin is just harder to keep happy so to have it's tail pointed at a ray of 90 degrees or higher.
  5. I never really liked gravel so... yeah.. ^.^
  6. It's always good to use the poop check method, 2 days of the pellet you wish to try then fast the third day, feed peas/spirulina/any food with a good amount of fiber. If the poop on day 2 or 3 is long and stringy, they're having a bad time absorbing the nutrients. -constipated If the poop is freakishly thick on day 2 or 3 the food might have a high amount of ash and carb which isn't digestible. If the poop on the 4th or 5th day chunky, with or without air bubbles, you need to soak the food longer and keep in mind, a longer soaking time means less nutritious as dry food can dissolve along with it's nutritional value. If the poop is normal as if you were feeding it blood worms, it's good or superb. Perhaps some one has a better method. Add this applies to sinking food
  7. Not sure if anyone mentioned, bare bottom tanks have less surface area, so if one person messes up and cleans there filter and scraped all the glass clean (beginners mistake) there's a higher chance of a crash in the bio-filtration cycle with a bare bottom tank than with a tank with more surface area, as with gravel. This also applies to those who have a really bad filtration system as goldfishes needs an exceptional one, so the surface area in the filter might not be enough for a bare bottom tank. (economic woes?) In the end it just depends on how new you are to aquatics as most people who are experienced knows it's not necessary to get a "thorough cleaning" and also knows how big a filter must be.
  8. Thanks to my brother who wanted to start delving into aquatic pets he filled my tanks with really bad quality goldfishes which killed everything. Mixing tropicals and cold water in his selfish desire to get a tank to himself and pinning the responsibility of both types on me. At any rate.. I had to restart everything which meant stripping down all the contaminated items in my tank including the gravel in order to start raising goldfishes again (took me a month to restart). Have I messed anything new over the pass year new types? new equipment? techniques? anything?
  9. it might just be the stress, after water changes fishes will stop moving around a bit due to the stress and instead literally drift or atleast use minimal energy to get to areas that do not have high currents which may help in aleviating stress. It's not suggested to startle the fishes during this time unless the stress is too much and they go into the state of shock which is rare unless you do a large water change with a huge temperature difference you might want to turn off the filters or atleast lower their speed a bit as shocked fishes may get pulled toward the filter..
  10. You guys should watch myth busters, there was an epidsode where goldfishes were taught to swim through a maze.
  11. it would have been best if this was looked at more thouroughly and placed in the reseach section IMO. thus only further research may improve or debunk these type of claims.
  12. never thought of that.... nice idea lol I usually need to do this in random pinch amount numbers which takes too long.
  13. I was also pondering if the 10G or 20G rule needed to be revised. Atleast if you're trying to get the best progress in raising goldfishes. I think 30-50 gallons is more sutable for a fancy and 70-100 is require for the long bodied goldfishes. Also it would be best to think of wakins, jikins, comets, and shubunkins in the same category as commons in the idea of fish per gallon. Although don't take this idea to seriously I was thinking in terms of quality over quantity, if you guys have 2 ryukins and only a 20 gallon tank then hey atleast you're doing your best with the resources you're offered.
  14. I would recomend pro-gold only when your fish has a constant case of swim bladder problems, for those fishes that do not have SBD commonly I recomend omega one or something you can obtain more conveniently depending on where you live.
  15. I think the real candidates are pro gold, and omega one so far. and my vote goes for Omega one.
  16. JRL has slower wen developement but is said to be better overall. Body mass, color etc
  17. I wonder if ppl are sure that the back bone and the girth are 2 different criterias... but if they are conscious then great...
  18. actually show's are predominantly male ranchus since most shows would hold competitions during warm weather seasons when a female can become full of eggs and display an uneven body. However my question is about Wen and Backbone developements. Can you find me those reports? just out of curiosity
  19. Please be positive in making a vote. And try to read the question carefully, there's 2 of em.
  20. here in brooklyn NY the owner of Royal Aquarium located at 66 or 65th street and 8th avenue informed me that the imports are no different then the goldfishes in hong kong based on quality. This was confirmed when they showed me their ryukins. So great goldfishes aren't too far away within some areas of the US. [Just wanted to mention the adress to those who are curious]
  21. Here in NY we get the same goldfishes as the LFS of HK. All goldfishes comes from breeders and when looking for quality it's about having the right breeder/supplier.
  22. actually as a good form of testing leave the waste out into the sun, if the water is green after a few days that means the protein was absorbed, brownish water may mean that the food is in the midst of decomposing or in other words the proteins were not fully absorbed. That's what I came to understand with my experience so far, we may need more confirmation to see if this technique proves true for every type of food.
  23. That might be either the ant's exoskeleton provides good fiber, or the goldfish can't digest the ants at all. at any rate ants are high in protein and if large amounts of protein is floating freely in the water that can cause bad water conditions.
  24. I say common X oranda, since they're often the only goldfish people will choose to have in ponds in the west.
  25. Saki hikari is formulated to give weight on a fish, that is the most notable aspect of saki hikari on kois. however I'm not too sure about the color enhancers, and I'm more then positive bloodworms as a growth enhancer would do better so don't rely too much on saki hikari as the only feed.
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