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Everything posted by maniacholic

  1. You need a smaller (10-20 gallons) glass tank so you can see which fish is deformed from the side view. After picking out all that would just produce unwanted ammonia you need to transfer the fries to a larger container to grow them out. Usually the third container is a tub which would be placed outside to grow green water, but is deep enough to stay cool.
  2. 2 is the minimum number of tanks/ponds/tubs you need to breed fishes with, as 1 is for the parents and 1 is for growing the fries to a good size. If you're into quality however, you need 3 as you need a tank which would be easy for you to pick out bad specimens for culling.
  3. Was wondering, is there a ratio in Chloramines to Chlorine and Ammonia ratio. If Chloramine can only exist in a chemical equilibrium, would it be possible that after neutralizing Ch and NH3, Chloramine would go into a backward reaction and decay to Ch + NH3.
  4. If they still have their egg sacs attached then yes. Although 4 days seem a bit extended. Perhaps the water change you're doing was with untreated tap.
  5. Yeah, it's just luck. I've managed to get a few short tail ryukins (1 to 1 height to length ratio with a good symmetry) in the past from two 2 year old ryukins. Of course you really need to cull those which are bad.
  6. Actually, if you run enough Airstones in water for pre-filtering, chlorine would dissolve over time. It's actually more economical to do this by setting a pre-filtering system outside in the sun where the heat from the sun would cause chlorine to react faster.
  7. Actually it's just based off of probability as a three year old goldfish should produce more fries thus giving a higher yield of higher quality fishes. As with most batches of fry only a small percent would be a standard fancy goldfish. Also it's hard to see the stars in smaller fishes as well, so breeders would wait for the fishes to become bigger. Add, picking a quality fish to match up with may require 3 years (the minimum time needed to achieve the ranchu's Yokozuna status by several divisions in Japan for ranchus) thus making a very distinct blood line. As for a wakin which is namely a double tale common, it would probably be a lot easier to breed a standard wakin then it would be a fancy. Good luck in breeding Kane.
  8. I advise anyone and everyone to check their tap pH to see if it's close to a goldfish' need, and if it's close enough, don't modify the pH of the water via buffer or baking soda as even a single pH shock is more dangerous then living in an environment where the pH is off by .1 or .2 is stable. To add on, the recommended weekly or biweekly water change will spell out constant stress for the fish which would inhibits growth and development in wen or colors.
  9. If you have green water from any source by any chance, make a quarantine set-up by mixing the green water into the QT tank. If the green water turns brown it means that the new fish is sick or really stressed. Keep changing the water 10% a day and treat it for any visible signs of illness until the water turns green again, after that it'll be okay to add the fish into your display tank.
  10. Try buying the fishes when it's warm. That's when you can see more breeding stars more clearly on your own wakins. if one has it then it's a guarantee that you have a male and a female as the males will only develop breeding stars if a female is present.
  11. I suggest Gel Food. The only problem with Gel food is the time required to make it. As for me, I personally like feeding the GFs frozen foods like bloodworms, shrimp, and salmon skin. Although Salmon skin requires a good amount of time to prep (slicing it very thinly thin steaming) since it's very tough. Commercial food that I use is only for when I don't have time to prep anything or when I want the fishes to graze on something (Salad Supreme from goldfish connection is nice and hard that the GFs nibble on slowly) Also, use only farm raised seafoods, this would guaranteed that there will be no harmful bacterias or parasites as farm raised is recommended for sushi.
  12. I think it's GFSA reports you're referring to and I'm sure they're free.
  13. They can lose their color, believe it or not, just like any of our fish. This is my first time hearing about red caps going white.. It's somewhat fascinating.
  14. It might be your food. Even bad lighting won't take away the Red Wen usually.
  15. Expose the pulp. that's the stuff the GFs will go for. It's actually a good idea to feed oranges to new GFs due to the Vitamin C boost.
  16. Get the siphons which attaches to your facet, open the release valve and turn on the water at the same time. the vacuum formed by the rushing water will draw everything out in a fast pace. It's a siphon with a bit more force involved, I can even pick up some small gravels like this.
  17. The longer you soak pellets, the more likely it will be to decrease in nutritional contents. I suggest you switch to something else. You don't need to soak pro-gold, just put it in to the water by hand as a measurement, that's the beauty of pro-gold.
  18. That wasn't my question. I need to know how to remove ammonia from my tap water source. If your ammonia is being added at the source, the reservoirs it should be okay, as the surface area in the plants and pipings alone would be able to produce bacteria to remove the ammonia. I'm sure by the time the water gets to your home the ammonia is gone, how am I sure? Ammonia smells really bad, a lot worse then chlorine. So there's no need to fret unless your tap really smells like urine. And I'm serious about urine. And if it does smell like urine I suggest you buy a tub and fill it up with the water. Add a bunch of airstones and you would have prefiltered water. But make sure you give a good amount of time between each water change.
  19. I didn't know that. I got that information from a tropical fish forum where they made a list of the Protien % and advised that freeze dried had a much higher protien content than frozen. I will have to do more research to find out the more accurate answer I did the research a long time ago, but I didn't crunch the numbers so I think it's safe to say that presoaked and unsoaked factors would matter a bit atleast.
  20. They should make special foods for each individual goldfish. But with what we have offered I suggest you feed the pearlscale/ryukins/demekins or any GF that's prone to SBD ProGold or masses of frozen blood worms, as those are most likely the most digestible food for GFs at the moment. Hikari is a bit harder on the digestive tracts but it's great if you fish can handle it and isn't stressed by it (bubble in poop). Omegaone has very little fiber so only slender fishes can handle it. (some ranchus, moors, lion heads) Of course it's best to use a trial and error method by testing things based on poop.
  21. We need to take into consideration of body mass, as ammonia production is based on the mass of a GF. As far as I know a pearlscale would have the highest body mass to weight ratio as they're huge in diameter. I suggest Bubble Eyes as they tend to be slimmer and shorter then most. Also we should not take a tail's length into consideration. Finnage is probably much lighter then the body.
  22. I think it's about the same in concentration for protein% and such since you're comparing dried and frozen foods.. cause after it soaks up water that'll change the water content.
  23. It's been bothering me but I've been wondering what is more preferred. I know freeze dried is somewhat cheaper but is it just as good as frozen?
  24. Goldfishconnection.com or FishSempai.
  25. It's a matter of preference. As for me, it's progold or hikari for fishes with SBD problems, while Omega one for those without it.
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