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Posts posted by maniacholic

  1. Phoenix tails have grown out of popularity, although they were common in one point. All this happened in Asia of course, however, most fancy are also Asian imports or at least strains from them.

    Your best bet is to check lion heads and bubble eyes or celestials in hopes of those mislabeling which occurs.

    Another bet is to look for collectors or clubs which are centered around goldfishes or ponds, and to ask around.

  2. So my cycle crashed yesterday or the day before it and I decided to solve this problem by utilizing a power head filter filled with zeolite and a 40% water change, add trace elements and got parameters to 0 0 0 and ph to 7.8 no chloramines. However my red and white ryukin isn't eating or is eating very little. I need help in expediting recovery since I don't want it to stress to the point where it'll rest on it's finnage.

    I can't use Medigold since it's not eating much and only eats blood worms atm (when it was fine it ate pellet foods), I tried salt and it doesn't really help.

    Further info is, I usually do daily to bidaily water changes at 10%

    Feed mainly Bloodworms 4 days a week, progold and salad supreme on weekends, peas every two weeks.

    Ammonia burns visible

    Blood streaks on fins

    no fraying fins, the dorsal fin is still high and pointed at a ray of 90 degrees

    126 gallon tank with 8 fishes

    Java Moss planted.

    Fish was never overfed but I haven't noticed it poop for some time now.

  3. A few years after buying the starter-kit from goldfish connection I have to say the ceramic air diffusers are much better then everything I've seen sold in the LFS. It hasn't clogged or anything much like the API's bubble wand which I would have to clean on a bimonthly basis. And unlike all the different Air Diffusers from the LFS the ones from Goldfish Connection has never worn out/shrunk/clog or such, and instead it still looks rather new.

    I only began to realize the true beauty of these as I was cleaning everything and used 2 Ceramic bubble wands for the day as I left the stuff I cleaned out into the sun. My fishes began to become less active which really scared me and is now recovering from what I would believe as suffocation as my water parameters was still very good.

    the link to the air diffusers can be found here


  4. My oldest fry will be 2 months old tomorrow! He is developing more orange along the top of his tail now. Each day he changes a bit.

    I discovered that one of the smaller "big" fry in with the oldest has something of a deformed/ funky tail. The top lobe looks normal but the lower lobe on both sides looks like it either got chopped off or did not grow fully. The bottom is almost a slip of a spike that is sorta curved/ curled downwards, instead of nice and rounded. That fry has no problems so far with swimming and such so I decided to leave him for the time being and see how he develops. I saw this when I transferred the fry to clear rubbermaid tubs so I could thouroughly clean out their nets.

    All of the other fry so far look normal. Some of them are still so small it is really hard to see their tail formation. I can tell there are about 3 distinctly different tail shapes in the fry. Mom has an almost triangular tail with some division of top and bottom lobes. Daddy #1 pearscale has the triangular tail with no lobe seperation but the ends are longer than the middle. Dad #2 the black moor has a much longer flowy tail with definite top and bottom lobes. Some of the fry look like the moor's tail, some almost appear to have little cotton tufts for a tail all rounded from the top view, and others have the distinct lobes but the tail looks different maybe flared outwards a little more or less than the first group.

    I can't wait till I can tell who the dad is for some of the fry. I know that most likely some if not most of the fry I may never be able to tell completely. I am assuming that both the telescope eyes and the pearscales are recessive genes in goldies. It would be really cool if I ended up with a fry displaying both traits, but I know it is highly unlikely.

    Hmm, what type of goldfish is a fancy that only displays the double tail and nothing else particularly different or special?

    The 2nd month is usually crucial for color development as you probably concentrated on giving proteins to the fishes before. Usually these colors will be produced in the third layer of the goldfish's skin which is permanent coloration. I suggest blood worms rather then brine shrimp at this stage as your fishes are now beginning to utilize color pigments. Perhaps you can also start utilizing spirulina flakes.

    A double-tail with slightly curved backs are known as Man-yu. (Although most of the people here at kokos will think it's a ryukin, it is very common in Asia so it borders between a fancy goldfish and a common, much like a Wakin)

    A double-short tail with a straight common like back would be a Wakin. (As stated, it is very common in Asia)

    An arch back with a sharper angle at neck to backbone is a ryukin.

    A straight back with long tails are usually culled or sold off as those tend to have no grace in them, or as much grace as a boomerang due to the tendency of the tail flowing downwards giving them a boomerang like image.

    Almost forgot, there is the fantail which has a slightly curved back and a deeply angled double lobes on the tail.

  5. The smaller eyes rule are used to buy fishes that would tend to be younger, hence more potential in growth.

    I suggest, when buying fishes from those that imports go for the biggest ones, as breeders prefer to sell their best at a larger size for 2 reasons:

    1) It increases the value exponentially as traits become more visible.

    2) Breeders would keep a large batch of fishes which has the highest potential for a longer period of time and would give them conditions we normally wouldn't like green water and constant live food from mosquitoes and other insects that fly by.

    At the same time, the larger and higher quality fish have a tendency to need more upkeep as they may have been pulled out of what they were use to which is Green Water and live food.

    Also, you cannot trace genetics based on current traits as traits are dependent on how fries are kept.

  6. Just a small note - many fish that have floaty issues can be completely "cured" simply by feeding less food.......

    Overfeeding is a very common problem. I am certainly guilty of it!!!!!

    Actually I feed purely blood worms for 5 days a week, progold once a week, and salad supreme for the last. I haven't need to fast the fishes, and the only time they may start having floating problems are on the days with progold.

    I'm beginning to think that it all comes down to how easy it is to digest the foods which is the factor. As more food which is hard to digest = more build up of food left in the digestive tracts leading to break down to gas molecules.

    wow same here they always look so hungry :feedme :

    great video

    so how big is the tank???

    It's 120 gallons or so, with 8 goldfishes. I'm planning to add 1 or 2 more Butterfly tails if I find any good ones ^.^ .. although it also means I may need to trade my ranchu to give the fishes 13-14 gallons each.

  7. I've always had my doubts about the 2 or 5 minute feeding rule ^.^

    Here's the food supply for 1 meal, this is actually twice the amount of food I feed the GFs which is done for 3 times a day, so the fishes are actually being overfed this meal just to see what happens.


    Right After putting the food in.


    Fast forward 30 seconds.


    PS the food never touches the bottom of the tank.

  8. I feed raw salmon which doesn't break up fast to leave anything left on the tank. Just make sure it's farm raised salmon as those have little to no parasites on them especially if it has been in a freezer for a good amount of time. I also slice it thinly (filleting skills) and make strips out of it which lets the fish tackle the stuff quickly.

  9. The pleco might be holding you back, algae and light is actually a good method to reduce nitrate as you can scrape them off and take out some nitrate manually in doing so. The thing is, if the pleco or the goldfish eats the algae it'll come back one way or another as ammonia. It'll cycle through your filter and become nitrate again.

    Try this http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/...t=0#entry693140 although it may limit some source of food for your pleco.

  10. I just thought of this.

    This set up would cause algae to bloom on a designated area and at the same time stop your fishes from eating it. As more food means more end products, algae as food would just be like feeding the fishes more so in the end it comes back full circle as nitrate again making things counter productive. So instead we have nitrate being converted as plant food at the same time limiting the intake of the GFs. There's still maintenance however as algae may become too expansive so you may need to trim it now and then. Good thing to know is that algae is very fast in removing nitrates if nothing eats it that is.

    First you need a tank divider that'll allow flow of water with ease, second would be a light bulb (for growing plants) and lastly an airstone and pump.

    This method would require that there is a way for you to direct flow of water to 1 corner as the target corner should receive a good flow of water.

    Set up the tank divider on the designated corner and make sure there is a space outside where you can shine your light bulb at it. Try to increase the surface area for the side which faces the light bulb.

    Place an air wand or stone inside the isolated corner, this will be the source of oxygen for algae when the light is turned off by any chance.

    After a while the isolated area should start blooming with algae, the idea however is to make sure the fishes won't eat it as it would be converted into poop and produce ammonia which would turn back to nitrate. You can however scoop some out for your fishes as something to munch on.

    Sorry for the crappy drawing


    Ideally you'll want to be able to leave the light on 24/7 but need a way to block out rays on your fish during night time cycle, but I haven't thought of anything except for a very dark divider with many small pores while the algae should cover the rest of the light.

    I really just thought of this so I don't have anything set up at the moment but I'm sure it'll work.

  11. I think it's best to get a canister filter as you need to pump 850 GPH for an 85 gallon tank. One of my friend's filter which hangs on the side was leaking from the motors overheating causing it to loosen and create a gap. (Although the motor was still running all suction was lost after the water level went down not to mention the mess that was made)

    An airpump is the most essential piece of equipment for a tank so do not shy in getting one which may cost a bit more but won't burn out. (I've used a rena for a few years now and it's still running)

    A hood is essential in lowering the amount of water that evaporates, I also suggest you get ceramic airstone/sticks/wands as the green airstones tend to disintegrate after a while. It's also ideal to get some stuff to boost up your biomatrix' ammonia and nitrite consuming bacteria if this is your first tank, if it isn't you can get 50% of the biomedia from your old tank and it into your new filter.

    That's mainly all you need for a basic tank. Pray to Haruhi if you get a bad airpump and a hanging filter as if they both fail at the same time you can guarantee that your fishes will begin to suffocate especially if it's warm. As of now I'm gonna strongly oppose this combination (cheap airpump and hanging filters) in tanks which are above 30 gallons since hanging filters can overheat at 350GPH.

    As for the student budget, you should try aquabids or ebay. I've tried using fluval and aquarium pharmaceutical brand and haven't had any problems with them, so it's two choices to choose from so far, so try to find what's better on your wallet.

  12. Oh, ok. Yeah I have a typo too. NH2 cannot be a proton acceptor in basic sloluton. (end of first para) duh......

    I totally get what you are trying to say now. I am not sure about the cl- being able to to pop off NH2 in equalib. Crap, what if nh2cl- is not a salt? Looks like it is, but am not so sure now. From what I hear it is VERY stable in alkaline water and will not dissociate-that is what makes me think it is a salt..... You could always do a search on chloramines chemical properties :duckk:

    Not to distract you from HW or anything. Are you in college now? Biochem was once upon a time one of my favorite topics. Been a while though......

    Ended up with a bachelor of science in nursing=BSN. Always thought if the nursing gig did not pan out that I could always go back to be a chemical engeneer. I think I made a fine cardiac ICU nurse though-if I may toot my own horn :heart

    Keep up those grades and you can go anywhere.........

    I am in college however I'm an economics major. I just took Chem because I can get an overview in investing in pharmaceuticals. Chem is actually one of my weaker subjects as I really hate doing repetitive arithmetic in formulas, however I have enough understanding to see how drugs work.

    At any rate I think it'll be a good experiment in throwing some agents like zeolite to bind to mass amounts of NH3, then if it is in equilibrium we can observe color change from green (Chloramine) to yellow (chlorine) if I'm not mistaken. However, I don't have a deep white tub to observe green in water with chloramine nor do I have pure H2O and Pure Chloramine to work with..

  13. OK, at the risk of getting waaayyyy off topic.........

    I am not sure that NH2 can be an proton donor. IIRC, the more negativly charged the molecule, the more it desperatly tries to hold on to its protons (H+). I think in the case of NH2, it can only act as an proton accepter except in extreamly basic pH situatations.

    This is where I get foggy..........

    I know that when you are dealing with high ammonia levels in a tank, the trick is to keep the pH low. The more acidic the water is, the more NH3 will exist as NH4. Nitrogen is more stable as NH3 but can still accept a proton. NH4 being less toxic to fish. The goal being to keep more NH3 existing as NH4, the less harmful of the two. (this part makes sense to me) Oh yes, and of course multiple WC'S....

    When the nitrites (NH2) are high, you need bump up the salinity of the water. This produces an osmotic gradient keeping the nirtites out of fishes gills.

    (why would not boosting the acidity of the water help too?)--this is why I get foggy.

    --a probable explanation is that NH2 would rather exist at this state (stability wise), and takes a chemical rxn to convert it to another form--bilogical filtration.

    Also, if nitrogen was to exist in equalibrium, it would have to be rather weakley bonded (to remain NH2 in the presense of polar H2O). If it was, then why do we need biological filtration to break nown NH3, to NH2? Because the acidity/alkalinity needed for this to happen would kill our fish.....

    I made a typo, I meant to say NH3 can act as a proton and a base so I meant to say NH2 might be a proton accepter if it was to break from the Cl- and become reactive (energy from breaking a bond) of course it could stay as NH2, however I was thinking that if there was energy from breaking NH2 and Cl- and the NH2 needed to bind to something it would go for Cl- again if we're in a high pH environment (less H+ in sight), while it would go for H+ in a low pH environment. This idea originated by the idea that Cl- as a very reactive molecule would be more poisonous to fish then Cl2 which is more stable, thus explaining why high pH was more dangerous in water with NH2Cl.

    At any rate. I was wondering if NH2Cl would have a moment in time if the NH2 was low in concentration so that the Cl- from NH2Cl would break off and become a radical to react with other NH2Cl to create Cl2. So when I mentioned equilibrium I was referring to NH2Cl = NH2 + Cl- not the equilibrium in NH2 = NH3.

    My idea in summary was NH2Cl breaks apart and are both high in energy so there might be a chance that NH2 bonds to a H+ creating NH3 or it can rebind to Cl- making NH2Cl again, this might alter if H+ was present at the time or not.

    Next is NH2Cl is salt, so would the NH2 dissociate a bit to create an equilibrium where a ratio between NH2 in the water and NH2Cl must be maintained.

    Head go Boom now. :blowup:

    I've been a bit sick and sleepy when I type these so I'm probably forgetting something here and there. None the less I also need to do more HW probably.

  14. Chloramine is held together by a very strong ionic bond. this is why it does noe evaporate out and is stable in solution. (This is why prime works, ative component is hydrosulphite salts=ionic bonded salt) the induvidual ions in Prime are more strongly attracted to the components of chloramine than each other. I believe the chemichal nomenclature of chloramine is NH2(36)cl- since chloramine is negativly charged, the prime is attracted and reduces the over all (polarity?) effectively braking up the molecule. Once that is done NH2- is split off the chlorine?, chlorine then neutralized and the teporaraly inactivated NH2- (bonded to prime and neutralized) is then dealt with the bilogical filtration. If no prime like chemichal is added the nh2- reverts to ammonia somehow. I am thinking that the active ingredient in standard dechlor donates nh2- a hydrogen ion turning it into ammonia...... (If somone can clarify this it would be great)

    I also know that Prime also detoxifies ammonia, so it must somhow revert NH2- into ammonia somhow.

    From what I understand, chloramine does not not exist in an equalibrium in water, making it very stable (very strong ionic bond). I do know that the water companies do add bicarb to increace the pH adding to the stability though, hmmmm......

    What I am trying to say is that I dont think that H20 has a stronger affinity to break the bond in chloramine like a less strongly bonded salt such as NACl- (salts being ionic bonds).

    OK, that is enough for now, my brain hurts :blowup:

    Actually the NH2 can act as both an acid and a base, so should be a bit weaker then we think.

    The interesting thing to note is, ClNH2 is more toxic in lower pH and may be a result of free radicals of Cl- which is very reactive (I'm thinking about NH2Cl + H = NH3 + Cl-).

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