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Everything posted by bodoba

  1. No they glue on the floor fairly roughly so they don't get knocked around by the filtration, do you fill your tank with a python or bucket? python - Use the water that you are filling to provide extra pressure around the eggs bucket - Dump bucket directly on the eggs. Once you have them suspended they are easier to scoop up or to suction up with the python.
  2. The patent states that they have all three forms of bacteria in their products. That means the waste product nitrate could be coming from the bottle. I personally don't know what they use to keep their bacteria alive and fed while it's sitting on a shelf unopened but it makes sense that it would produce some sort of wase. What are the tap water measurements? Is the nitrate occuring in there? Retest as koko suggested in 24 hrs and report.
  3. With borrowed media from your 5 gal you should be able to have a fishless cycle in a couple of weeks (unless problems arise) I think it would be fine as long as you continued to monitor things carefully in the 5 gal and make sure not to overfeed. (You can catch up on their growth when they're settled in the 29 gal) You can start a new thread in water quality to help you with your fishless cycle.
  4. The best way is to have a fishless cycle with borrowed media from your establised tank. If you are using the same filters then your cycle should stay in tank and you will be dealing with a cycle BUMP instead of starting from almost scratch. The other thing to consider is what conditions are your fish currently in, how long they've been in that and if they could handle being in that while you make sure the cycle is intact. Since the tank is new you won't need to clean it. Just make sure that the conditioned water is pH and temp matched when transferring your fish from one tank to another, that will help them reduce stress. Do you have enough filtration for your 29G or will you need to add or upgrade your filter(s)? Very glad you lucked out and got a bigger tank, I can't wait to see the wiggles from your little fishies in there
  5. They just have to survive one winter and then they will proliferate, We have a lake near here where the fish eat the frogs No one fishes there cause the frogs make the fish taste funny.
  6. You are doing a LOT to help your fish right now, I am so glad that you decided to come here for help. It seems you are slightly confused still so I will try and help out. Sick fish container 1. Check your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. 2. Change 80-90% of your water 3. Add water conditioner for full amount of tank. 4. Replace with water that is the same pH and temp as the water still in the tank. 5. Check ammonia, nitrites and nitrate levels. If levels are ammonia - 0 nitrites - 0 then you do not need to do another water change. If the numbers are higher then 0 do another water change Helpful hints: Keep your filter running, it will help handle the waste. Do not feed your fish tonight. Healthy fish container 1. Repeat steps 1-5 from above. 2. Add an air stone or a filter for the night. If you do not have any way to agitate the water you cannot keep the fish in there. Things to purchase: Salt (look at my salt link below for the salt you need to use) Seachem Prime water conditioner. 120L tank OR 120L food safe container. I am sure if you keep the water clean (ammonia 0 and nitrite 0) that the fish will survive the night. Check the levels again in the morning. Feel free to report all levels on this thread, the more information we have the better we can help you. You are doing a great job and you aren't in this alone don't worry. ETA: number difficulties
  7. I think the last pic is a funny looking fish. Maybe it's been out of water too long
  8. Yup. Goldfish will normally try to eat anything that is afloat in their tank. Completely gross and normal. So glad most humans don't do it
  9. I use mops and sponges Eventually I will get some sponge pads from swisstropicals.com or I will get the cheaper version matala from home depot. The cheapest option for me was cutting up furnace filters and using that but I found in was just too brittle so I threw it out. In small areas like HOBS and canisters you do need something that's high efficiency, the ceramic rings and balls these days are made for maximum efficiency with a great pore count for bacterial growth, just make sure to keep them in a container, like holey pantyhouse, makes filter cleaning LOADS easier
  10. Yeah they are mess makers, as you've notice, most people cultivate their eggs in methylene blue cause they are notorious for getting fungus on them which prevents them from germinating. If you want to save them: Remove them, put them in a tank of their own, 6" depth or more and make sure the water is pristine. Start a new thread and we'll help you from there If you don't want to save them: Releasing eggs is a tremendous amount of effort and stress on fish. Older fish can even get floaty after the experience or bottom sit. Eggs and milt are a good source of protein (obviously) and can help restore some of that lost energy but don't keep the eggs in for more than 12 hrs, check your levels and definitely siphon them what it isn't eaten before fungus sets in on the unfertilized eggs. Either way congrats for having a breeding pair and at least you know they'll be able to do it if you ever want to expand into breeding in the future
  11. Carp I lost the website that I copied that from.... there's some things in there I didn't know, the nitrite accumulate to stay at 80% for the nitrate to take over. The nitrosomas activity max reached at 28C. I did know about the free ammonia. If you are using a heater to regulate your temperature I would try increasing it maybe to 74-76 and see if that speeds things up at all.
  12. bodoba

    DIY Plans!

    I thought I'd start a thread for all the DIY-ers out there. If you're like me you have about 8 000 plans on the go at any one moment. This thread is to help us stay on track and a go to for helpful advice. Try to post pics of your finished work so we can encourage others to come to the dark side of DIY *bwahahahaha* My plans: 10 gal sump (currently being made) Rebuild pond (springtime) Build basement pond frame and buy liner (fall time) 5 gal 'foodery' Build canister filter for eventual tank in room (aka fry cullery) This is my previous DIY 5 gal sump I made from the summer
  13. Have you been keeping the tank at a stable temp, and what temp is that? Just trying to get up to speed here, missed a bit. You're due for your nitrite spike anytime now.
  14. What do you do that gives you such a pH change? Your tap level says 6 and your tank level says 7.4 Are you adding something that causes that change? I would have to look into it again but I remember reading somewhere that goldfish will increase their slime coat production during pH swings to help protect them from getting burned, excessive slime coat would cause irritation which would cause flashing behavior and if bumped or rubbed may look like pimples. this is all speculation What dnalex has indicated about the temp swings goes into play here too. It seems like there is more than one issue to be addressed that could be causing these things so that makes me want to get more information. You are a very dedicated fishkeeper and I can only hope that my little ones grow into as beautiful fish as yours
  15. I've noticed that you feed your fish 'goldfish flakes.' Without a varied diet the fish may not be performing with the best immunity available that it could be. That would mean it would take longer for the wound to heal. Is there anything else that you are feeding them and how often? Also, any exposure to ammonia while there is salt in the tank will irritate that wound, how often are you checking your levels and how much water are you changing during all this? Sorry for all the questions, you have been working so hard and doing everything right to get the fish better and it seems to be getting worse so I thought we'd get some more info just in case something was overlooked. You are doing a great job so far! ETA: A second pic showing the progression of the wound would be a great help
  16. Your big water changes seem to be working, I give you within 2 wks you'll be done your cycling
  17. That sounds lovely, I hope you will entertain us with pics :D
  18. If she's that fast now and constipated she's gonna zoom through the end of the tank once she's got it all out VERY cute fishy
  19. Well, it is 55 gallons. I'd have to look into heating pads and such. For heating on low, I would use a low rated plastic heater such as the aqueon brand, and keep it on the lowest setting. It will probably be on 24/7 in order to keep the water at the desired temperature, but that should be fine. I would place it near a filter or air stone to ensure proper distribution of warm water You're solution is soo much cheaper than mine! My solution to my heating issue was "build an insulated indoor pond for the basement for next year, that'll solve my heating problems"
  20. You can help this fish and you can learn a lot on the way while you are helping it. The changes that are recommended will help your fish live more comfortably. If the fish doesn't survive then you've done the steps needed to ensure that it's end isn't as painful as it could be. A lot of people have started their fishkeeping journey on this forum with a sick fish. There have been many miracle fishies on here over the years that you would not expect to live. Gravel should be less than 1/4" in depth in order to keep the bad bacteria from growing in it. A test kit that would be helpful here is API drops masterkit. People have found that to be the most accurate. If you can only find strips, then please try to get the individual ammonia and nitrate api drops, those need to be monitored daily while treating your fish with medicine, as dnalex indicated, you will need to treat this fish with medicine.
  21. Aqueon Pro heaters have been recommended here because they are cased in plastic instead of glass thus reducing the chances of it shattering.
  22. Just continuing the off topic but HOLY COW not even the FDA could stamp it safe for use OR effective. I see no reason to ADD chloride to your tank whatsoever or how that would in any way treat any of the diseases or condition that they state it can cure.
  23. I'm kinda on the other end from you I'm trying to heat to temperatures below 68F and there aren't heaters that naturally heat that low. Because of that purpose I don't want a glass heater. I plan on testing out the aqueon pro as it is so highly recommended from here. If you aren't needing that much heat, could you place your trop tank on a heating pad to just give it that few extra degrees?
  24. I remember hirohito as well, beautiful beautiful fish. What is it with kokos and that elusive chocolate colour
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