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Everything posted by bodoba

  1. Most people turn off their filters when feeding if they are having this issue. Feeding usually only lasts 20 mins or so and then they turn them back on. That small amount of time doesn't seem to affect the cycle
  2. It looks like slime to me. After my pond scum (duckweed) dies out in the pond, the pond lining is covered in bright green slime (looks velvety) the secondary growth after this was string algae (which I still grow in the basement). I honestly don't know what the scientific terms for 'slime' is. ETA: There is information on slime algae on google but I've yet to see anything that doesn't conflict with itself (like most algae postings) or any scientific documents from reliable sources.
  3. Yes you can, it doesn't harm your fish. Start with a 0.1% concentration.
  4. Isn't it nice to know you have your water changes finished for the week?
  5. No matter what, I think that plants would help in this situation if it is possible to get some. Plants tend to metabolize nutrients more efficiently and use more nutrients than simple structures like algae and diatoms too. With those to out compete the nutrients it would. This however, won't do much if the reason for the outbreak is silicates in your tapwater. Are you planning on calling your water company for information about silicates?
  6. ok I'm caught up now. Sorry about that confusion, I was mixing this thread with another How often are you feeding the fish?
  7. No no, boy I sure word up some doozies don't I. You are adding ammonia to the tank right? You do your readings with the api kit at the same time everyday? (normally 12 -24 hrs after adding the ammonia) I was thinking maybe testing your water earlier (6-12hrs) to see if there are any nitrites showing up. This is just experimentation and is not necessary at all, once you get a higher concentration on nitrates building up your nitrites will show up on the test, it's probably just a trace amount right now.
  8. Yes nitrate under 20 ppm is safe for healthy goldfish. However if they have difficulties with swim bladder they may be more affected by nitrate and you may start seeing floatiness and trouble composing themselves you may need to keep your nitrates at a lower concentration in your tank. Just wondering, do you want to check your water halfway through adding the ammonia and when you normally check it? If you have nitrates you may be getting trace amount of nitrites that are processed before getting read.
  9. Maracyn is erythromycin. As an antibiotic it is affected by exposure. Most military grade vacuum sealed packet meds are created to withstand severe conditions. The regular packing companies, I would not trust to adhere to the standards that the military use to ensure they can ship their drugs into war zones. Maracyn2 is minocycline, this is type of antibiotic that is highly toxic after it's expiry date. Even as humans you can have severe side affects of taking it past it's expiry date. I would never recommend using this after it's expiry date for either fish or humans. I also agree with getting more information before recommending a treatment. Info still needed: levels in tap (is your ammonia 0.25 in tap?) ph tap (is your water stable?) pictures (for some reason your pictures didn't show) Salt and ammonia are a toxic combo. Be mindful of that.
  10. @eric There is a salt link in my siggy that describes the type of salt you can use. I buy kosher salt that only has one ingredient, salt. It' is $4 for 2 lbs.
  11. You should keep the ammonia at zero, if your fish presents with ich you treat it with salt. Salt and ammonia are a toxic combination with fish. Change your water everytime ammonia is present.
  12. 1. Do a water change to make sure the ammonia is at zero. 2. Raise the temp. 21C is too low to find out if there is ich or not, their life cycle will speed up at a higher temperature Do you have a heater? 3. Are you able to make water changes more than once a week? 4. Feed the fish shelled peas and describe the poop or provide a pic.
  13. You could pm sakura or scroll through her youtube videos, I believe she has one explaining the connections for it. Stakos has also used uv sterilizers in the past. What is your filtration system you are connecting it to?
  14. You've done a great job so far. I'm sorry that the cycle bottle was so misleading. What you can do now is provide daily readings of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I had to order my aqueon pro heater online, it cost around 40 bucks but it is definitely worth the expense. When your temp dips below 70F your bacteria will stop functioning. Do you have your one fish peanut in your 20 gal tank? (just confirming )
  15. I would not use maracyn until a diagnosis of ich can be confirmed. But what you can do ich or not is test the quarantine water and if ammonia 0 nitrite 0 and nitrate under 20, can start adding 0.1% salt. (more about salt in my link ) (I'm sure you are working on the questions and pic/vid, I look forward to seeing your new fishie )
  16. Don't worry about spiders they're my fishies main staple of protein right now! For some reason I have an active supply of ... bloodworms or something similar growing in the ponds, so all the spiders in the house gravitate to the humidity and food in the basement. The spiders eat the food that flies away and the fish eat the larvae forms of the bugs. If a spider unwittingly falls in, it doesn't live long
  17. 1. Natural sunlight has a kelvin rating of 5000K so most T5 fluorescent tubes have that rating. That means you can buy a simple 2 tubes and ballast combo for around $35-40 and put it on top of your tank provided you have a cover to protect it from the water. This is great for plants that are floating on the surface 2. Underwater plants need a strong light since 1/2 the light refracts at the surface of the water. T8's are around 8000K per fluroescent tube. They are more expensive but they do last longer. This is great for underwater plants If you get algae from changing your light spectrum you aren't heavily planted enough. Plants will absorb nutrients more efficiently than algae. If you get an aquarium ballast (the thing that holds the lights) it will be water proof. Also you can get HO options of fluorescent tubes through aquarium stores these are HIGH OUTPUT and are more efficient than regular ones, but that also means more expense. If you don't have an aquarium ballast and still want to use a standard everyday ballast (cheap version) you need to ensure that they are waterproof. I would try to either hang the lights (I've seen a few options of that around here) or place a structure that keeps it above the splashing (probably about 6 inches high)
  18. Quilting batter, you can buy a lot for cheap, (I think a 2 lb bag is $3) That is really fine and sometimes people take out all their media and just run through with floss for an hr or two so it can pick up the fine particles. Then you remove and toss (or use for extra media). Quilting batter is made out of polyester (plastic) so it won't grow mold but some quilting batter is cotton or wool. Since it will only be in there for a few hours it really won't have a chance to grow fungus. It's also called polyester stuffing or filling. You can find it in craft sections
  19. When was the last time you changed the water? Are you readding ammonia everynight? I'm just wondering if you're cycle is stalled with the low heat, you said it was at 72-74 right?
  20. Those rocks look like live rock that they use in marine aquariums.
  21. Healthy plants. From what I know, goldfish go after new growth, rotting growth and roots. If you grow your plants in old tank water first (like in your old 5.5 gal) and they grow to a decent size you can transfer them. Keeping the roots hidden (most people use bowls) can help. Though some fish are ravenous and will tear apart a plant in no time no matter what. In this situation I would recommend a surface floating plant like duckweed, they are close to the light and nutrients from the filter output so they grow fast and can compete with hungry fishies Your fish look SOOO TINY BABY and cute in their new tank
  22. They look like fish eggs but be advised that eggs are highly probable to develop fungus on them if they are unfertilized, this puts your other fish at risk for fungal infections if your water quality dips. After 24 hrs unfertilized eggs will become opaque or white, remove those before fungus sets in. Fertile eggs will be pale yellow or amber coloured. Good luck, many people keep a fry journal on here to log their development.
  23. Thickened peduncle, tail tuck (not as tight as show worthy would be), very nice curve to the back With some head growth you could get a beautiful ranchu out of it. With some more depth it could be used to establine a line if it bred true.
  24. You've done a good job answering most of the questions necessary but is it possible to answer the rest that are above? Thank you very much for the video, that helps explain a lot. Do you have a quarantine tank available right now, if so, what size it is? I'll wait for the rest of the form to be filled out.
  25. My guess is the planaria are still there because they are still able to be fed somehow, that means there is ammonia, nitrates in your tank or uneaten food. Is there anyway you could feed your fish in a separate container to reduce all chances of uneaten food from appearing? Keeping your water as pristine as possible will help reduce the chance of planaria regrowing. It might take a long time but they should eventually dissipate. The barebottom tank should help you keep it much cleaner. Betel nut palm is used as a vermifuge to expel intestinal worms, it also aids in intestinal peristalsis. I'm not too sure how effective it would be on planaria. People who chew the ripened fruit excessively can get some scary conditions including carcinoma's. Read more here : http://www.agroforestry.net/tti/Areca-catechu-betel-nut.pdf
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