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Everything posted by bodoba

  1. Well this is a meagre start to my tank. It is a 70-something gal tank and it will house some fish that weren't fit to go into the winter pond this year. Mainly due to weight (four fry) and a torn fin issue. This is lulu she is a fry that went out in the pond around July and only had a month or two out there to grow. She is staying in due to weight. In the foreground you see ubaga. His issue was torn shredded fins (poor thing got stuck in the filter during the removal process in the pond) they were quite shredded but are slowing growing again, just clean water has been needed so far. Here is the best pic I could get of him where he is trying to be king of the mountain Thank you and I hope to update further when the tank progresses
  2. Can you take a pic to update the conditions and review the adjusted routine you did due to busyness? (We all get busy and it is understandable but how the treatments were administered will affect future advice )
  3. It's ok, a lot of people come here because they follow pet store advice and then that doesn't work. smaller container some people here use plastic bins for quarantine when they don't have a smaller tank. They are also cheaper and easier to find. current meds in tank I would do a 100% water change after the first dose is done (3 days) unless the fish seem to be getting worse or suffering from the meds. meds to get I see Helen suggested the fluke and tapeworm tab from blue planet. The salt you were and are using is okay but due to the amount you would need to treat ina 160l container I encourage you to look for the 40l bin. what do to in the meantime test your water daily (obviously after the green meds are gone I doubt you will get good tests with that dye in it) if there are any changes in appearance, take pics and post them here, if there are any changes in behaviour, take a vid and post here. You are doing all right and don't feel too bad, we all have been swayed by the advice of pet store when we were beginners.
  4. I know you are probably settled on a decision but I have 70- something gal tank and I plan on a hob paired with an hmf. I did try to convince my boyfriend to build an wet/dry but didn't trust that ball valves would prevent back flow in the case of a power outage. He also thought it was slight overkill considering how the tank is being used.
  5. Could you point me in the direction of where you found that info on flubendazole and salt? I couldn't find anything on whether flubendazole is 'inactivated' by 0.3% salt like Prazi is, or whether it's safe to double dose Kusuri's flubendazole preparation. To be on the safe side I have just used 0.1% salt and a single dose of Kusuri. But it would be great if it's safe to use at 0.3% salt Welcome to the forum Ruby I'm from the UK too so also use Kusuri Wormer Plus. Although it says on the packet that only a single dose is required, Jared very rightly highlighted to me that a second dose would be needed 2-3 days later to ensure that all the life stages of the fluke are zapped. So I've done one dose, water change after 4 days, then dose again in about another 2-3 days. I know you're concerned about giving more meds than necessary, but I do think that you might as well do it properly and get all of the bugs if you're going to do it at all And don't worry about asking questions! It's the only way to learn and it shows that you care Oh and with regards to working out salt concentrations, it's easy with litres. For a 0.1% salt concentration I just always remember that its the same number of grams of salt as litres of water in your tank, e.g. a 300l tank would need 300g of salt to be at 0.1%. Hope that helps I searched and searched. Found a few papers where it is mentioned in the abstract by Helen Roberts but unfortunately I didn't pay the price to read the full article so I am unsure the correlation that was mentioned. I guess the 'azoles' are not affected by salt above 1ppt
  6. As far as I know it is needed for all anthelmintics that are waterbourne but I will try and find some info to back that up.
  7. So currently there is 24 tsp / 160l of hopefully aquarium salt. Do you have a smaller tank? In order to treat with salt you would need a large amount to fill the 160l. We would be looking for something around 40l (no less than that though) and that you could quickly to water changes on if needed. It looks like slime irritation and the probability is external parasites. I see that you have not provided any quarantine info on these fish so I am guessing you did not treat for parasites. No time like the present! Smaller 40l tank,aquarium salt or salt with no additives, and a deworming med that contains praziquantel, fenbendazole or flubendazole to treat flukes. I am unsure of what is available in Australia but we have plenty of knowledgable members in that country that can help you out with specifics.
  8. Yes but you need to double dose your wormer when it is in 0.3% salt. Salt at that concentration only needs to be for a two weeks treatment.
  9. Seachem kanaplex and metronidazole are available in canada. If not in an Lfs try bigalspets.ca.
  10. I would try a salt dip before your next prazi round. Might help the meds get to the affected areas.
  11. I see you are new here and I would encourage you to learn from the website and the forum attached. If you have any questions please ask in the appropriate area of the forum. Good luck with your fish
  12. What are you needing the furan2 to treat?
  13. I have a theory but have to research before offering any suggestions than keep the fish in clean, low nitrate water, that is well aerated.
  14. Aside from posthumously the only one who could tell you is a vet. I sympathize with the vet issue as mine doesn't even believe goldfish are susceptible to parasites. I had something similar happen to a blue oranda. I found out the kidneys were abnormal during an autopsy. I fed antibiotics but to no avail. I hope you and Jared can heal this fish but I just wanted to prepare you as from the pictures it seems the fish is advancing sadly.
  15. The white nodules doesn't necessarily means flukes. You have a fish that is bottom sitting in an abnormal position slime coat will thicken when irritated. I don't know if anyone mentioned about wiping down the bottom of your tank during water changes but I would suggest it with a bottom sitting fish. The updated photo is showing quite a bit of irritation to the slime coat. While swim bladder issues do occur and can be the cause of a fish side lying as such, organ failure is another. The are ways of alleviating swim bladder issues in an otherwise healthy fish. It seems Jared is leading you to try a second antibiotic and I wish you the best of luck.
  16. She has been adding links in her responses just in case you didn't notice. http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/98620-upgrading-the-instant-pond/ Click on the link and it will help you through the process
  17. Just a reminder that you shouldn't use meds without knowing your params. You can change 30% of your water daily to keep it clean and purchase an API master kit drop tests. Once you post your parameters we can lead you through any treatment if needed. Fish usually can heal themselves from injuries with just clean water
  18. The are looking great! My tank is just as algae covered as yours. I wipe down the two sides I see the fish on if I can't see them and nothing else. to me I think most female tank owners equate algae with leg hair, always have to shave it
  19. I would imagine it would work well with an hmf designed filter and they are used in conjunction with sumps (wet/dry filters). They are mainly used to aid in draining large water changes.
  20. Flashing is a sign of irritation to the slime coat. There can be a plethora of reasons for it, not just illness
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