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Everything posted by bodoba

  1. Is this additional filtration or is it going to be the sole filtration? Bubbler pumps are great for a secondary filtration but are pretty poor when it comes to the primary one. Do you know what the PPI for that sponge is (pores per inch) If it's tightly packed with a high PPI the bubbler pump may have to work extra hard for it which will burn in out faster or it may just not work. There are a few other considerations IF it will be the primary filtration system. If it's secondary you don't have to delve that deeply into it.
  2. I'm always up for a good reasearch project! I'll look into it but I'm warning you, this means I get all the ice cream I want while doing it!
  3. Koko's SBD link This is probably the best source for swim bladder that you can find on the web. Basically you just need to keep on going through the possibilites until you are sure that none of them are the issue. 1- Constipation 2- Effect of water pressure 3- Epsom treatment 4- Treating for a possible internal infection After that it would be time to go to the vet. They can aspire the air bladder to help with the pressure. In severe cases the vet can also remove some of the swim bladder, though that is normally a last ditch effort. IF you have to go to a vet make sure you look around and ask questions. Not all vets are well practiced with fish and you wan't someone who knows what they're doing. Any spike is going to probably affect Sushii faster than any others if it's SBD, whatch your levels like a hawk! I hope a mod will show up soon to help ya. What meds do you have on hand?
  4. After searaching high and low for Dragon Eye Tosakins I find out basically that they are very rare and impossible to obtain. So I've been reading like crazy about breeding and pretty much know NOW that my fish hobby will eventually take me there. I'm even lucky to have a husband who supports me whole-heartedly. (He better after that punch in face during sparring) The basic set up: Main tank, breeding tank, fry tank, green water cull pond (in my case probably a horse troph (sp?)) Will be using homemade sponge filters for most of the plumbing, though if I manage to find a monster fish tank I might use my current 90 gal as a wet/dry sump Medical essentials: Scope of course, well stocked on all meds plus med foods, running water table system for surgeries (this is more of a wish list item rather than an essential/idea stole from daryl) Food: Grow bulk what I can and gel/freeze dried of the rest. Books/show/socials: The best ifnormation you can get is from other breeders. It'll be essentail to go to shows, get involved with the goldfish society. The only book I can really guess that has the most in depth coverage is Joe Smarts Goldfish Genetics: A Handbook for Breeders. While conformity is important I want to strive for a hardy, healthy fish. Combining the tosakin's cumbersome tail with the poor eye sight of the telescope is just asking for trouble if I don't start off working on a strong immunity in the line. I also realize that this isn't always possible which is why there aren't a large amount of goldfish varieties. As I'm learning more about calicos...they really aren't a fish for a beginner breeder. The rate of sakuras and color fading is so high that it's probaly better to stick with just the basic colors until getting a handle on things. I cannot stress this enough that this is YEARS away but going into to it with proper planning and research is something I always believe in. I am not looking for a major operation to start off with, I believe starting small and then gradually strengthening the combinations are the best bet. Breeding in any type of animal is a lesson in patience (unless of course you have some strange hobby of breeding mosquitos, then it's fairly fast) and I understand I could be devoting a decade or so just to get some of the attributes I am looking for and I'm willing to devote that time. Can you think of anything I might be missing or something that would be beneficial. I left out a lot of the basics I know but I figured those would be common knowledge in the breeding process.
  5. So I was in wally world, I looked at the fish. It must've been new fish day because there weren't any ich or dead goldfish yet. (It's so sad to say that but it's true) In the LG goldfish section (meaning over an inch in length) there was a beautiful black telescope. There was none in the tank that had clamped fins or anything. I know they don't take good care of their fish so I wouldn't buy it. Plus I am nowhere near close to setting up my tank (haven't even made the filter yet) Sometimes it's hard to say no because you don't agree with the care of the animal. Anyone else had to restrain themselves recently?
  6. Oh honey I am soo sorry! I actually broke out in tears when I read this. She was such a doll and I'm so sorry you lost her. My husband going for training next month, I understand what that's like. Do you think you'll ever order online again?
  7. It could be an injury from not being able to control her swimming and just bumping around but there hasn't been anything in your tank to cause that. When I think of internal bleeding without injury I think of septicemia. Hopefully trinket can give you more info on that. Poor fishie needs a break.
  8. Alright so I looked into PCB leach rates, it turns out that there are more PCB in sediments than in ambient water. PCB also resides in the fish' tissues which I think Trinket mentioned. I would presume that it would compromise the immunities to tissue related illnesses like ammonia burns, ich, and the like. I didn't get to read the entire article (I love ya dearie but it's $35 for that article GRRR). What I can tell you is that PCB normally leaches around the area of ppb (parts per billion). This doesn't really help you at all and I can't really think clearly enough to figure HOW you would prevent this. I'm amazed how little info there is on PCB, DDE, and DDT rates and water leaching seeing as it's such a major problem (cover up anyone?). I'm guessing in the future SOAK your tubs before use but seeing how long I have no clue. PCB leach graph This shows some info about it though I can't seem to link it together. I need more sources and don't work at a university so all these stupid papers are restricted. : Hope she's feeling better!
  9. Influence of carbon dioxide on alkalinity Carbon dioxide can change the pH of water. This is how it works: Carbon dioxide dissolves slightly in water to form a weak acid called carbonic acid, H2CO3, according to the following reaction: CO2 + H2O --> H2CO3 After that, carbonic acid reacts slightly and reversibly in water to form a hydronium cation, H3O+, and the bicarbonate ion, HCO3-, according to the following reaction: H2CO3 + H2O --> HCO3- + H3O+ This chemical behaviour explains why water, which normally has a neutral pH of 7 has an acidic pH of approximately 5.5 when it has been exposed to air. Read more: http://www.lenntech.com/carbon-dioxide.htm#ixzz0jCH3yXMn This explains why it is raised, agitating the water removes the CO2 and presumably reverses the process. I'm sure it's more complicated but I'm late for an appt so I'll have to research it more when I get home. I'm SOOOOOOOO happy that fishies are feeling better! I'm so sorry I didn't think of this sooner seeing as I read it a gazillion times and didn't make the connection.
  10. pH levels in tap water can vary seasonally. Which makes sense, right now the snow is melting and if you're area uses an underwater resource for water then that snow is going to go into it. That means more chemicals and more minerals are going in but they have to maintain the same supply so therefore the alkalinity of the water (bicarbonate, carbonate, or hydroxide) doesn't get addressed. There is a wide range of acceptable limits and it's non toxic to humans, a minimum amount is in there just as a buffer. Therefore in the spring when the melt happens it can take a bit for them to 'catch up' on the alkalinity as they are addressing the other issues with water quality. IF this is what is happening to your water you'll need to adjust the alkalinity accordingly. You don't have to switch to specialized water just yet. Find out your GH/KH and alkalinity levels and possibly pH strived for from your city source. Find a pet store that can measure the GH/KH and possibly alkalinity in your tank water. With this information you should be able to confirm if your tap water is causing an unstable environment. This is just one possibility. I really hope there's a MOD here who can delve into water quality aspects better than my measly attempts.
  11. Ok so have just spent the morning reading up on pH levels, and how to lower them and such. But I think as you probably agree that the more important thing is to stabilize the pH instead of trying to lower it. I know you don't have a GH/KH test kit BUT is there a pet store you trust? I know that pet stores will test your water for you and maybe you might have to shop around to find one that'll test your hardness level. Once those levels are known you'll be able to find out if they're the normal levels or not. For tap water try phoning the city water system and see if they can readily give you the numbers. IF those levels aren't within the norms (for goldfish they can be anywhere around 100-400 ppm) then you have found the problem. My brain is now mush so i'll check back after a nap, Hope the babies are feeling better today.
  12. Okay so I spent the past HOUR researching aquarium systems via marineland inc and I know even less than I did before. They're 'life like' rock attachments are coated in epoxy. Now, we're going to presume that they use aquarium safe epoxy or they would probably be out of business by now but sometimes accidents do happen and maybe the epoxy coating wasn't properly put on and chemicals are slowly leaching. The problem with this idea is that you've been doing a lot of water changes so the chemicals wouldn't ever build up to a really dangerous level. If they are overstressed from being sick have you tried leaving the lights off for a day or two so as to not stimulate them? Just thinking of coping techniques. When the lights are off, can you notice any difference in them? (I know silly thing to say cause you obviously won't see as well with the lights off) Sick fish are so scary I hope they perk up soon. You're doing an excellent job and doing everything you can for them.
  13. The clamped fins after a water change is very interesting. I agree with sarah it sounds like something is fluxuating your pH. Check the pH on both of your test kits, if you have a GH/KH test kit I'd check those too. Something is causing the pH to flux and with the amount of water changes you are doing it doesn't sound like a fish related issue but a water related one. How often do you check the pH in your cycling tank? If it's been a couple of days it might be a good idea to check to see if there's a flux there too. I hope your fishies feel better.
  14. Goldfish seem to do so well in green water and I was wondering if there would be any benefits for a betta that was kept in the same conditions. Obviously they wouldn't have the growth factor that the golodfish do but maybe their colors would get more brilliant. Any thoughts?
  15. bodoba

    Math Help

    I'm trying to figure out the dimensions I need in order to have a volume of 1208 squared inches. Looking for a cube or rectangle that will fit a 48LX24WX18H tank. Application info: Am attempting to build a hamburg mattenfilter for my 90 gal tank. Instead of traditional curved corner or a wall of foam, I am attempting to build a cube in one corner out of foam that will encompass this volume. If this makes more sense I'll say that I plan to use three pieces of foam to make a "cube" with a corner. The inside will be house with the power filter and a pipe will lead up to the surface for agitation/ SLIGHT water fall. Plan on using a cuved piece as a 'spout' and of course cage it so no-one gets stuck inside. I can't figure out how big the cube needs to be Any and all help is GREATLY appreciated! Una
  16. Alright so I finally have my tank but as I have not made my modified HMF/sponge filter I have not had it up and running. The stand has a very nice cabinet inside that I'll be able to child/cat proof so I won't have to worry about my CO2 canister. Turns out my lights provide only 1.6 WPG so I'll be getting another set or two in the future so I can get my level up to 4-ish (?). But I think the current level will be fine for some of the beginner plants.
  17. LOL look at the skarks go!
  18. It's monday....any fry yet? Una
  19. So I was looking up freshwater species and I came up with mussels. Which kinda made me chuckle because I have never heard of them in an aquarium. It SOUNDS like they would be compatible with goldfish. Apparently they're really fickle with water quality but it a well established goldie tank most of those issues will be moot. The only questionable thing I saw is that there larvae stage will attach to a fish which causes a cyst will they grow. Which is apparently is harmless to the fish but due to it getting mistaken for other illnesses the attempt to remedy the unknown cyst. Any thoughts? Una
  20. The good bugs will be on any bio bac will be in the filter media and substrate you have in there, the more you transfer the faster it will cycle and cause less of a bump. If you're concerned about the cycle bump affecting your fishy is there any way you can keep him in the 10 gallon with 100% water changes until your new tank is cycled? With more water it should be easier to maintain the needed water qualities so he may weather better than you think. Good luck! Una
  21. AWWWW yay! I'm so glad everything worked out! You have an AWESOME LFS! Una
  22. I have a 30 gal bin that I'll be using for my quarantine tank. I just kinda plan on making a 2X4 cage for it to sit in to help with support. If you are using a filter that hangs on the back, take this into account. I'll be using a DIY sponge filter and air stone for filtration. Good luck! Una
  23. Hello and : 1. What is Prazi? What exactly does it do and can is it usually found in lfs? Prazi is short for Praziquantel and is used to treat flukes. It's commonly used as a preventative medication seeing as it can be used with salt in a quarantine situation. Hopefully a MOD can come along and give you more detailed information about it. Prazi link And yes your LFS SHOULD stock it. 2. How much salt do I put into the tank? Also should salt only be used for new fish or should it be used all of the time? It is safe to put up to 0.3% ratio of salt into your tank but is normally recommended to increase it at 0.1% increments. Salt is used as a treatment and should not be in your tank all the time, to read more about the right kind of salt to use and how go here 3. Since any goldfish I will be getting will be my first (in many years) do I still need to use a quarantine tank or can you do 'quarantine' in the main tank? If they are the first fish in your tank then you technically don't need to quarantine but if you've spent months setting up a fishless cycle for them you may not want to have to medicate the entire tank and have a cycle bump when introducing new fish. I plan on quarantining my new fish even though I don't have any due to the fact that I don't want meds messing with a freshly cycle 90 gal tank and it's easier to monitor meds/frequent water changes in my smaller 30 gals QT set up. 4. Should you really do 100% water changes once a month? Won't that mess with the cycle? The beneficial bacteria of your cycle won't be in the water but in your filter media and your gravel (if you have any). Depending on your stock level you won't need to do 100% water changes once a month. You'll be doing water changes to keep your ammonia and nitrIte levels at 0 and you nitrAte levels below 40 ppm. However much you need in order to keep that ratio is the amount of water changes you need to do. I'd test every few days until you've figure out how much waste is produced. Most people only need to do one big water change a week as long as it involves a good bottom cleaning. 5. Is there any easy way to tell the gender of fish from the pet store? I keep reading horror stories about goldies breeding and how hard it is to clean up the eggs and then dealing with the fry. It's something I'd like to avoid if possible. I do know that some people just watch their fish and once they start showing signs of breeding (aka breeding stars on males and swollen with eggs for females) or they start chasing one another they separate them into two different tanks so they have a male tank and a female tank. Unless you are getting an older fish from someone who has sexed them it is kinda difficult. More info on sexing goldies here These last two questions I'm not too sure on but you can go to this forum to learn more about water quality. 6. My water is really soft, is this ok for goldfish? 7. What is 'buff-it-up'? Hope this helps! Una
  24. I know it looks like a lot and a long list but hey, this is a wish list. I doubt I'll be able to get half of them. In preface I'll state that I'm getting a 90 gal with T5 light fixture one roseate and one normal bulb (thank you sakura!). Due to the eventual goldfish I haven't sorted out the substrate issue and have for the moment to avoid a C02 canister as I don't know how to 'toddler proof' it in my house. FOREGROUND -Dwarf Four Leaf clover -Dwarf Baby Tears -Broad Leaf Chain Sword -Banana Plant (Nymphoides aquatica) FORE-MIDGROUND -Moss Ball MID-BACKGROUND -Green Ozelot 'Alismataceae' -Aponogeton capuroni -Crinum Natans MIDGROUND -Sag, Chilensis (Wideleaf) -Vals, Corkscrew -Vals, Contortion -Crypt Lutea ??? PLACEMENT -Lanceolota (Anubias) -Cryptocoryne wendtii "green" Input is welcome, thanks! Una
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