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jetman73

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Posts posted by jetman73


  1. i am not sure if placing it in the filter will be effective. however, the floating particles will sink, eventually. you can add it to a container of tank/pond water and shake it up before you add it to the tank/pond. that will eliminate most if not all of the floating particles.

     

    Maybe we have used different prazi products in the past, but IMO you could shake it all day in pond/ tank water and most of it will not sink, it just forms big clumps. The best method I have seen for getting it into solution is the rubbing alcohol method.....preferably the stronger rubbing alcohol if you can find it depending on your country of origin. What I would do is mix the correct amount of prazi in a zip lock bag with just enough alcohol too form a slurry. Smoosh the bag and meds between your fingers. Then take that slurry and add it to a 2L bottle with tank water and shake the jeebeebus out of it. Of course some will drop from solution and separate at that point but it's the best method I've ever seen to disperse it correctly. 

    I think the addition to the filter media would work but I'm leery of putting straight meds into my biofilter. Not saying it wouldn't work, just not the method I would use.

    Using that method I've described I've never had to dose prazi more than twice for full fluke eradication based on microscopic slide results. Just leave it in the water for a week with no water changes depending on water temps. 


  2.  

     

     

    I'm not getting that info from anywhere. I've seen it with my own two eyes in my tank. I surely would not have tossed a perfectly fine BN into an unheated pond if it was not eating on the GF. I love BN Plecos, easily my favorite algae eater because they stay small and are absolute machines at cleaning, although I will never keep them with fancies again. Just my 2 cents based on my past experience.

    Just curious why you felt it ok to toss a perfectly good BN into a pond where you thought it would die, when it wasn't on for it to supposedly be snacking on goldfish?
    I'm not sure I understand the last part of your question, but I dumped the fish in an unheated pond because I didn't have any other tanks and I was pissed off. He still went on to live another two years.
    Haha man autocorrect really got me there! So I am interested to learn more... What water temps did this BN survive? Nevermind I see you already said 50

     

    I lived in West Central FL at the time so when it did hit 50 or slightly below it didn't last very long. Normal temps for the winter time pond was normally 55-62ish. Again for anyone reading this I would not recommend these protocols for keeping a BN, it's just something I've observed and thought I would pass it on.

    Almost all of the tropicals sold in the US come from fish farms in the Tampa area, most notably Hillsborough County which routinely experienced lower temperatures than where I lived as I was just slightly to the north and west and closer to the gulf. They would cover the ponds during the cold stretches and sometimes the fish would make it, sometimes they would lose them all in the rare hard freezes.

    IMO unless they are very delicate species they can withstand colder temps....for shorter periods of time...and still come out Ok.   


  3. The only problems I had by not trying too dissolve it, at least a little bit was relating to ponds. It would float and end up out of the water column completely when it washed up along the rock coping edge, hence why I used rubbing alcohol. This was a tip I received from someone who has been dealing and importing koi for around 30 years . 

     

    I need to realize I'm back on a board that relates to tanks.  :doh11:


  4.  

    I'm not getting that info from anywhere. I've seen it with my own two eyes in my tank. I surely would not have tossed a perfectly fine BN into an unheated pond if it was not eating on the GF. I love BN Plecos, easily my favorite algae eater because they stay small and are absolute machines at cleaning, although I will never keep them with fancies again. Just my 2 cents based on my past experience.

    Just curious why you felt it ok to toss a perfectly good BN into a pond where you thought it would die, when it wasn't on for it to supposedly be snacking on goldfish?

     

    I'm not sure I understand the last part of your question, but I dumped the fish in an unheated pond because I didn't have any other tanks and I was pissed off. He still went on to live another two years.


  5. I'm a little late to this one but I would have just left them alone from the get go. They have plenty of water and you have great husbandry protocols so I wouldn't stress about every little knick and bump.

    Subjecting them to unneeded treatments and QT's will only make things worse and this could possibly be manifesting itself in the recent red area. I would watch that sore and ONLY if it worsens would I give a light scrub with iodine or PP on the end of a swab......but only if it worsens.

    For an analogy,  it's like taking your child to the ER because he scraped his arm and they start him on antibiotics. Good clean water is always the best way, especially since you have not added any new fish recently......because then my answers might be different. 

    Good luck


  6. I'm not getting that info from anywhere. I've seen it with my own two eyes in my tank. I surely would not have tossed a perfectly fine BN into an unheated pond if it was not eating on the GF. I love BN Plecos, easily my favorite algae eater because they stay small and are absolute machines at cleaning, although I will never keep them with fancies again. Just my 2 cents based on my past experience.


  7. Oh, huh you're right, the pH matches - this rocks!  :rockon   Temperature... the Culligan Man said to only run straight cold to protect the hot water heater - but I wonder if it's really that big of a deal, the water surely isn't pulling that much hot just to make the cool water I use...

     

     

    Aw, can't hold it against a sweet puppy... :teehee I think sleep deprivation is just my life now.  I was thinking the other day, I don't know if I will ever get to sleep again - and it's not the baby, it's the bigger kids or my husband's insulin pump beeping!  :why:

    I'm not sure how much water you are changing at a time but I don't think letting a little hard water into the water heater would be a big deal. Just think of how many people have hard water and DON'T have a softener. A couple of showers and a load of laundry should get you back to 100% softened water in the WH. I wouldn't worry about it.

    Just keep in mind the more hot water you mix in with your water changes the lower the GH will be. Again, I wouldn't worry about it since yours is plenty high to begin with. 


  8. Thanks for posting the video.  If I knew pet stores did that, I would have had the tank done there before I brought it home.  I tried that method twice but it was not "perfect".  So I am painting the glass today.  Fingers crossed for perfect! 

    How did it come out? If you haven't done it yet use light coats and keep spraying it every 30 minutes. I used to live in the Tampa area and I would wait at least 48 hours before I set it up with the humidity. It might seem dry and ready to go, but when you scrape that thin line of paint off hanging a new filter you'll kick yourself in the rear. Always err on the side of caution.


  9. I would not get a BN with goldfish, especially the longer finned varieties. They might be one of my favorite type of algae eaters and they do a remarkable job but will eat on a resting goldfish's fins and for the most part are nocturnal.

    I've seen that happen and chucked the guy into my 4500 gallon Koi pond. Figured he was dead when spring came around but never found his carcass. He lived throughout the entire winter when the temps bottomed out at 50 degrees so I left him in. Not something I would recommend. but I've seen it.


  10. Sounds bacterial in nature and I think Helen is spot on. I would keep the remaining survivors in QT for a long time before introducing them to the regular population.

     

    When you say the gills looked normal, what do you mean? Can you describe the color and edges? Was there fraying and white or pale tips? When many say the gills looked normal they assume they should just look red, but a healthy gill will be much darker in coloration. More look a maroon uncooked steak color. I would also ramp up the temp to around 80-82 too see if the others show signs of breaking. Much better to lose them in QT than introduce them too an existing population.   

     

    I would also cut down on the feeding and focus on water quality. Maybe feed them once every other day or so. Less is more and they won't starve. 


  11. I love the look of the tank and especially the thin layer of sand and the rocks. Very Very nice. I wish I had your artistic touch.

     

    Regarding the background I just use a can of spray paint in matte black. Just tape off the edges and give it a few thin coats. I've been doing it for years and it always comes out great, just give it at least 24-48 hours to cure. 48 hours is always better but temps and humidity always factor in.


  12. That is a lot of fish for a 29G. Good luck in the future but without some type of flow thru or massive daily water changes I think you might run into some problems down the road. You can only filter water so much.

    If you decide too keep that stocking rate I would suggest more oxygen because most of the pictures have them hanging out at the top. 


  13.  

    i am also not understanding.. but here are some handy guidlines..

     

    KHGHConversionChartAPIWaterTestKit_zpsd9

     

    Thank you Helen.  So this means goldfish should be ok all the way from 100-400?  And mine was something like 250.  Then I guess my main problem then is just the huge jump from existing tank water at 8.2 down to 7.4 tap when I was doing the huge 80/90/100% WCs, which can be avoided now.

     

    I have no idea how my GH can be just 1 with such a high KH, but if that part isn't as important I can stop worrying about it.

     

    Your water softener will remove GH.....Not KH.


  14. Why don't you just bypass the water softener when doing water changes? I'm pretty sure most water softeners have a simple type of bypass valve since many people can't handle the extra sodium ions in their drinking water.

     

    I just skimmed through the thread so maybe I missed it but never listen to what your water authority claims they are releasing. I used to be a certified water plant operator (disclaimer: I never worked in the field, just did the course work and passed my state exam) with the state of Florida and I doubt any treatment plant would release water with a ph of 7.0. That is way too corrosive for the distribution lines and they always buffer it on the alkaline side. Many plants also share water with other plants when needs arise, use different water sources, storm impacts, and they big old chlorine flush from time to time. If you've ever seen a lime slaking operation it will make your stomach turn knowing that is going to become drinking water.


  15. I'm not sure I'd say much about an Oranda is natural or normal. I have had well over 100 goldfish of many varieties in my 5 or so years of fish keeping and I have found Orandas to be the most susceptible to issues such as swim bladder problems, poor vision, and just being plain out with no doubt the dumbest type of fish I have ever had. I will not get any more of them if I can resist how good looking some of them are :)

    That is interesting because I've always felt it was the other way around. I haven't kept fish for 5-6 years and goldfish even longer, but when I did the oranda reigned supreme IMO. I never had problems with oranda like I did with the other varieties and I've probably kept them all except Bubble Eyes and the Celestial types. It's the main reason I decided my first new tank would be stocked with Orandas. 


  16. I just wanted to mention I haven't cleaned my fake plants in at least 3 years and they are clean. Each tank will behave differently depending on a variety of factors.

    Thanks and I agree wholeheartedly. If I can grow the right kind of algae from the get-go they have a chance to stay. My only problem is I have never used my current source water to house fish or grow algae so it's a guessing game. Test kits can only give you a limited idea of your true water source and how it will respond. Hopefully I play the right hand but I've always had success with higher WPG and longer photo periods for growing the nice stuff.   

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