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Everything posted by SilverWen

  1. True. I'm still looking for what I might like. I have to stick with fancies, my floors can't handle a tank big enough for any of the longer bodied fish, but that's fine too. There is a pond store a few hours from me that occasionally has gold fish (not just koi) that has good reviews on Facebook. I called this morning and right now they have oranda, celestial, and Thai ranchu. It might be worth at least going and seeing actual fish that represent the breeds.
  2. Thanks, I'll add some fish food every few days and still do water tests, of course I'll do a good cleaning before I get a fish
  3. No, I gave the bully to a friend that has an outdoor pond as far as I know hes' doing fine - I suggested she QT him just in case, but both he and Banjo had been through 4 weeks of QT already. Banjo, the fish that was being bullied was the one I kept. At this point it was too cold at night to have my hosp tub set up outside on the porch and I don't have room for it inside, so I just has the injured fish in the tank alone. Also, tonight my ammonia is 0 and my nitrites are less "purple" than 0.25 but darker blue than the "0" mark (api test kit), nitrates are still in that 10-20 range same as the tap. I'm hoping the plants are using the nitrate and that's why the level isn't rising, and its not due to a cycle stall.
  4. I'm not exactly sure where this post should go, I've been putting off writing it, I lost Banjo on Monday. Not sure what caused it, Monday morning he didn't eat and was lethargic and his tilt had gotten a little worse, he was gone when I got home from work 12 hours later. No sign of septicemia or any outward signs of illness, no pine cone shape, no swellings. I can only think that he had internal injury from being banged around so much I almost broke down the tank, feeling overwhelmed, and somewhat like a failure. But my fiance talked me out of it - said I'd put too much work into the plants and cycle etc to just give up, and that I should wait, look for a better source of fish, do more research and pick exactly what I want instead of what comes into the petstore that looks sorta healthy. Which is true too - I've just picked poor health fish that had little hope of success I guess. They only stores here are petco and petsmart, the only other non-chain pet store always has ich and dead fish in their tanks. Anyway, I am going to try and find a small-scale local breeder or somewhat local dealer in small batches of fish and stay away from any chain stores / bulk sellers, maybe I'll have better luck. Then, if I do decide to try again, do I get just one fish? After all this, I am really worried about potential bullying, even rough spawning behavior at this point is truthfully scares me. I don't have room in my house for two tanks to separate genders if it were to come to that (or the time and money to dedicate to two fully functional tanks). Can a goldfish of any breed live happily on its own, (I'm not talking about personification of 'happiness'), but biologically are they a species that stresses out when they are alone, like some schooling fish, or can they live normal lives with plenty of stimulation and enrichment outside of social behaviors. If there isn't any harm in just spoiling a single fish rotten, then I am all for it (if I can find a good fish that is). I just feel a bit lost at the moment. I don't really want to give up the hobby, I enjoy aquaculture, and really have a fondness for goldfish - other species don't appeal to me at all. In the meantime, how do I keep the tank cycled? Right now, the Ammonia is 0, Nitrite is 0, and Nitrate is 20.
  5. It's a 40B, there are tons of plants, got even more when the behavior started. Both fish came from the same tank at the petstore, but three weeks apart. I also put some big blocks of black sponge in there to help break line of sight, I was afraid to use anything like decor that was hard. Nothing helped. But Banjo is healing well. Still is tilted at a slight angle esp after eating, but seems to be doing fine otherwise. The torn fin already looks better
  6. The original fish was only in the tank alone for about 3 weeks. Before I introduced them I added all the plants and rearranged things. Then before they were together I used a clear critter keeper with the lid on floating inside the tank for about 24ish hours to they could see each-other (The top was slotted to allow for water flow) - the chasing and fin nipping started about two days after the new fish was released. I figured a few days would be normal, but the aggression got worse not better. It quickly went from just chasing to ramming and fin tearing. Worse at night when the lights went off and when there was food. So for about a week, I took the original fish out of the tank and set up in a tub. After 7 days I reintroduced him to the main tank and that;s when he immediately drove the new fish to the bottom and ripped a chunk from the tail fin, i hadn't even gotten my hand out of the water yet. After that, I moved him out permanently so I could treat the injured fish. I've only seen bettas act like that
  7. Update: I re-homed Shimi the Blue Fantail. He went to a co-workers 40,000ish gallon pond - its a man-made pond that used to be for watering stock, but they don't keep cows anymore and its just a nice shady pond with lillys and cat tails- (50ftx20ish ft with a max depths of 8ish feet on the sunny end. There isn't any connection to native waterways, so no risk of adding invasive species. She's got a few koi / shubunkin-looking pond fish that get fed pellets every few days, but are mostly mosquito control. It hasn't been stocked with any game fish like bass or perch. Shimi is a good fast swimmer and with the dark coloring I hope he has a good chance. Banjo is awful tore up, he's got several missing scales and a torn tail-fin, and now tilts at a 30-45 degree angle when resting. I tried separating them for several days, adding more cover, rearranging things, and feeding with Banjo is his own bin. Nothing worked, as soon as the lights went out of Banjo came out from behind the filter he was rammed, nipped, and chased without a break. I've seen spawning behavior and I am certain this wasn't it. Shimi would literally grab a mouthful of Banjo's tail and shake it like he was trying to rip it off, same with pectoral fins. Banjo is a slower fish and with the injuries and brighter colors I figured re-homing him to an outdoor pond would not be fair. He's now recuperating. I'm doing small salt increases and temp increases, and daily water changes to keep the water as pristine as possible, but for now am avoiding heavy medications. Is this common? The aggressiveness? If I wanted to get another fish at some point, how likely is this kind of behavior. I'd like have more than one fish in the tank, of course not until poor Banjo is all healed up, but now a little afraid to try and add one in a few months. I don't want to go through another 30 day QT with a new fish just to have it beat up and back in the hospital tank after a few weeks, that doesn't seem fair.
  8. I am maxed out on patience with fish right now and don't even want to think about more QT until next summer at the earliest -- but I thought it was strange that the guy kept saying how delicate they were and that the wen was more prone to infection than other breeds with wens. Which makes very little sense to me. I would think if a lion-chu wen was prone to infection due to size, then a large oranda's wen would have the same issues. Also said that you can't keep them with filters because they can't swim well. He specifically stated that only sponge and canisters with long easy drip returns were safe. All in all, made them sound like a nightmare. I was eavesdropping, so he could have been trying really hard to steer them away from them for another reason, but I was curious how people on here view them.
  9. I'm just asking because I'm curious. I was in a small fish store over the weekend and they actually had several varieties of goldfish including "lion-chu" (which were very cute). They owner of the store was explaining the difference between these and some nice looking oranda to a customer and kept circling back to how "delicate" lion-chu were compared to other goldfish. I'm not super familiar with ranchu or lionheads but I assumed their care was the same as all the fancies: clean, clean, and clean some more, good quality food, massive filtration, and more cleaning ;o Are they really that different from say oranda or fantails? They also had a "lemon-head ranchu" (it was a red-orange fish with a really yellow head), but it also had a dorsal fin? I liked the look of that better than traditional ranchu, but I'm wondering if it was just a luck cull that survived and happened to be pretty. (I wish I could have gotten her, but she was way to big for my tank and had a large price tag lol)
  10. I had to separate them - just watched as Shimi tore the calico's tail fin and pinned him against a rock. I can't tell if any scales are damaged This is so incredibly frustrating
  11. Since introducing them the original fish (shimi) has been chasing the new one. I thought a few days would be normal, but it has gotten to the point that the new fish can't eat or come to the surface without getting rammed. If they are eating the new fish is bothered to the point of spitting out it's food so the shimi can get it. As soon as the lights go off at night Shimi starts chasing the calico all over the tank for hours - ramming its sides and going under the calico and wedging his head under its tail like a spawning chase, even pushing enough to splash at the surface of the tank. But both are under 2 inches of body length (not including tail) and neither has stars. At the peaceful times they stick pretty close together, the calico follows Shimi from a distance, but then the chasing starts as soon as the calico acts like it's found something to eat or is near the surface. At the worst times the calico hides under the filter intake or in some of the plants and just stays still. Is this normal for newish fish?? They've been together for 14 days and the aggression seems to be getting worse. I don't want to re-home anyone after all this work unless I have to, but I also don't want the calico stressed and potentially getting injured. And if I have to re-home one, do I try again or just have a single fish forever. If I move the aggressive one out, what is the likelihood that the more docile calico would turn around and be just as bad to a new fish in a few months time? Basically would this cycle just keep repeating or is it that Shimi is just aggressive? I've read that oranda tend to be more pushy, and Shimi is supposed to be an oranda, but I don't know how true this is
  12. Thanks! Would it be better to start a new thread with updates or just keep posting here as I add plants? Probably going to be a few weeks before I get more
  13. First "wall" panel done! Decided to go with anubis for the sides since it is smaller and doesn't need super bright light - its super easy to add more plants as well. The matting should give the roots something to cling to and I can get more plants as needed depending on how much it fills in The Calico is Banjo, the silver one is Shimi so glad to be done with QT finally
  14. This is a pic of just the plants I have tied to small stones - Java Fern, Anubis, and Elodea There is some java moss in the net in the corner, trying to grow it out before attempting a wall. - still want to try to make a back drop with it. At worst it won't grow well
  15. I will. I'll try and get some pics up tomorrow after I get the tank clean for the week
  16. Ok, thanks! I have three small java ferns on rocks on the bottom - they seem to be doing great
  17. I'm not intending to try and alter the water chemistry, just trying to hide the back wall and sides some, so that instead of scrubbing it every other day, I can scrub it every other week or so. The glass just gets so cloudy looking, the bottom also gets a gritty look, so I was thinking adding just enough substrate to cover the glass might look better than bare bottom. I still want easy cleaning though, and nothing is faster to vacuum than a bare bottom Right now, I have a ton of Elodea and Java fern. The Java fern and most of the elodea is on small rocks that are just big enough to keep it from floating and the rest of the elodea is free floating. I have java moss started in a "fry net" until it gets big enough to put on a screen or log.
  18. I've been wanting to do something creative with the goldfish for a while, but I don't know if this is something possible with these guys. I've watched a lot of videos using the two plastic mesh sheets and making a sandwich with the moss until it grows out, but I'm worried they would run into the edges or somehow scrape themselves on it. I know they might eat the moss, but that's not really a problem, they nibble the elodea but don't utterly destroy it, there is always more growing and I keep a tub of it growing in the kitchen to have extra. I'm mainly looking at trying to up my plants, hide the back of the tank a bit, and leave a bare bottom. As hard as our water is, I have to scrub the scale off the front of the tank about every other day to keep it clean, the sides, bottom, and back I do weekly at the water change. Scale also does build up on the the anubis I have and I rub the leaves clean once a week too, it does not seem to hinder the elodea, but would it just crust onto and kill the moss? I can't afford a water softener for the house, so I'm trying to find creative ideas to hide the scale build up. I was even thinking of adding a very shallow layer of white gravel / sand to cover the bottom, just deep enough to hide the glass (1/8- 1/4 inch deep), but I think that would ultimately make clean up much harder.
  19. Thanks, still trying to figure it out. I did a 100% water change Wed and then Thursday night the test was showing slight purple again, not dark enough to match the 0.25mark, so i did a 50% change. Friday night it was 0. I will see what it is tonight. Ammonia has been a solid 0 this whole time. I even double checked the tap water and it is also 0ammonia / 0 nitrite
  20. Ammonia (tank/tap): 0/0 Nitrite (tank/tap): usually 0/0 Nitrate (tank/tap): 10 / 5 pH (tank/tap): 7.4 / 7.4 kH (tank/tap): gH (tank/tap): hard, I think 250ish ppm from water report - I don't test this My tank (40B with 1 fish, now about 1.5 inches) has been set up since July. After some ups and downs with cycling and such I thought I was done. I have been testing for ammonia / nitrite / nitrate every 2-3 days. For the past few weeks I didn't get any nitrite at all, (or a slight purple tinge to the test by day 7 right before I'm doing the weekly water change anyway). Nothing has changed other than I've been feeding less food as I think that was causing some water issues early on, but suddenly today my nitrite was at 1.0 - it was 0 Monday night, and I'd done a 100% water change on Saturday like I do every week. Ammonia was 0 and nitrate was closer to the 10 color. Of course I immediately did another water change. I even pulled the media bags out of the filter and rinsed them (in tank water) just to make sure no decomposing stuff was stuck somewhere - there really wasn't an abnormal amount of crud in the filter or anywhere in the tank, It;s bare bottom too, so nothing could be hiding. Luckily Shimi was fine and shows no signs of stress from that, but I don't know how to prevent it other than going back to daily testing
  21. thanks, i did stop the paragard this morning, going to watch them for another week while they finish the kanaplex. The irritated / hemorrhage spots are getting less red with every day, so the kanaplex seems to be taking care of the secondary infections. Right now just in a holding pattern until the salt treatment is done and then I'll see if any ich returns. Mostly just hoping the caudal fins heal back quickly Its amazing how much damage they can do to themselves flashing in a completely empty tank
  22. So my outdoor QT has been going great for my two fish, neither developed any ich cysts that I saw, but both had red blotches on the bodies and some red streaking and torn fins from flashing which both were doing - I started oral kanaplex for the secondary bacterial infections and everything is starting to resolve - they are looking better by the day - however with Ida moving through later this week it's going to drop out temps from the high 80s/90s into the low 70s. Night time temps are going to be in the 50's. Since the fish are in a tub (30ish gal) the water cools some with night - but hasn't dropped below 78 since I got them- with temps being so much lower should I move them inside where their water temps will be around 73-75 to finish QT? Today is 10 days of salt / paragard tx for the ich and day 2 of kanaplex. They will still be in the tub and away from my other fish I just don't want any remaining ich protozoa to slow their life cycle down if any are remaining - I assume the water temp will be about 65-70 average outside.
  23. They are active, eating, and seem to be feeling fine - I'd be more concerned if they were refusing food - also, I'm a worry wort lol I hope that daily 100% water changes are enough though - you can see by the picture with my fingers in the water that these are small fish, the one in the picture is the larger of the two - and they are in about 30-35 gal of water right now. I want to keep the ammonia / nitrite down to 0 - but without a filter running for biologic filtration IDK if a change a day is enough - even if I put a filter in tomorrow there's no way it will cycle immediately, even if I seed it with media from my other tank (that isn't fully cycled yet either) :'/ So far the water tests are reading 0 for both, but I've had them for just over 24 hours and have done two complete changes already, so I'm not surprised... I know that its not ideal - I have never gotten any pet without having a set up functioning habitat first
  24. Today it looks like the more white colored one has much redder gills than it did yesterday - I noticed it during the water change. Not sure if this is a) because it's a pale young fish with thin gill plates, b) a reaction to the paragaurd / salt, or c) some other bacterial infection or ammonia burn from the pet store. In real life the L side is redder, but the base of the pectoral fins are also a little more pinkish - I haven't had a matte white fish before to compare this too
  25. Thanks, I was going to plan on a 6-8 week QT anyway. If the weather gets cooler, i'll move them into my guest bathroom. Having them outside is just soooo much easier for quick massive water changes - they get some indirect morning sun which can't hurt too!
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