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J.Allen

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Posts posted by J.Allen

  1. so far , she has been eating in the hospital tank and when I saw it this morning the water was kind of cloudy and she had pooped , I emptied half the 10 gallon tank and mixed in fresh water, then I emptied half of that mix and put in fresh water so im thinking that equals a 75% water change,  I added the dose of kanaplex and fed lightly again , I believe some of the eye swelling has gone down but this may be wishful perception as I do still see a little "pine cone" effect on the scales still.

  2. Hi AM, 

    I have the fish in hospital tank . No filter just air stone , 

    Fish behavior is somewhat normal, fish seems slightly stressed from transfer.

    temperature and PH differences at time of transfer were less than .5 difference

    I have the kanaplex as well as API general cure ( suggested to have on hand by fish store owner)

    please advise your next recommended steps at your earliest convenience.

    - Jordan

  3. Hey AM , 

    Thanks for reaching out, I gotta level with you when I got up this morning and saw no reply yet I panicked a little and went to the store and bought some Melafix, as well at Meth Blue, worrying time may be of the essence.

    I have begun the melafix treatment  ,but haven't done anything with meth blue, for the whole community since I have no idea what's going on. I was scared that moving to the hospital tank and segregating from friends and sleep buddies might be the straw that breaks the camels back and fully compromise immunity.

    my local stores don't have much of a selection which is why I bought what I bought. I did find another store in proximity that has " kanaplex" which I understand to be a nuclear option for the bio filter and will require a hospital tank or will kill all bacteria.

    please understand I do not disregard your advice and very much appreciate your time and effort. I just so happen to be in a bit of a " perfect storm " here and am forced to operate in these unique constraints at the time. this is the more upsetting part of the ordeal. 

    I ask that if at all possible you might tailor your assistance to what I have readily available. this now consists of  API Aquarium Salt, Meth blue, Melafix, and I may be able to get some of that Kanaplex tomorrow.

    please let me know if its possible with these items or if it only the previously mentioned way, or no way.

    I am going to hug my tank now for a few minutes, attempt to " charge" the water with love. and wish well my fish friends.

    stranger things have happened.

    thanks again, for everything.

    Jordan

  4. Thank you for getting back to me today, This news is absolutely heart breaking.

    I would be apt to believe that this poor fish is having kidney issues or something since the others Eem relatively fine and historically this fish is the LEAST sensitive to changes.

    the fish has a big appetite but I have decided to fast them all today and intended to do so for the next 2 days.

    the only medication I currently have is salt if that counts , I had put 7 rounded tablespoons in the tank , 

    as I do not know if this is something wrong and infectious should I just treat my whole setup with all fish?

    when you say quarantine, do you specifically mean in a separate body of water or will housing this fish in the same water in the sump tank work ?

    I am standing by .

    thank you again, 

    Jordan

  5. hello forum, 

    long time no see. I shall spare you the details of the drama, and I humbly request your assistance despite my absence.

    Test Results for the Following:

     Ammonia Level(Tank).     0

     Nitrite Level(Tank)    0

     Nitrate level(Tank)  10 ( I have grappled with this since startup over a year ago)

     Ammonia Level(Tap) 0

     Nitrite Level(Tap) 0

     Nitrate level(Tap)0

     Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) PH 7.5      Kh 71.6            Gh 89.5 

     Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

    Other Required Info:

     Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API freshwater + API add on test ( kh gh etc)

     Water temperature? 75F

     Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? running over a year 75 gal + 55 gal sump for an estimated 100 gal of water 

     What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? custom

     How often do you change the water and how much?  one water change weekly roughly 40 Gal

     How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? last week roughly 40 

     How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 large  Thai oranda 2 large telescope eye 4 8 month old telescope eyes ( born here) 

     What kind of water additives or conditioners?  tap water treated with Seachem Prime

     What do you feed your fish and how often? usually feed them repashy super gold  once daily at 8 30 am EST , recently fed peas as replacement 

     Any new fish added to the tank? 

     Any medications added to the tank? 7 tsp of aquarium salt 

     List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.

     Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Noticed a "donut bubble"  of swelling around the eyes, thought it may be due to injury ( had a rock in the aquarium and removed) all other fish are fine, the fishes behavior is normal ,  much like WebMD my reading has not sent my self spiraling out of control. Im thinking A) injury B) Pop eye , but its not the whole eye ? C) kidney and digestive issues causing internal fluid backup D) egg bound? gave a little message but nothing came out...

     Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Would probably pig out if I fed them but im going to fast them 

  6. On 2/8/2021 at 6:12 PM, koko said:

    The only thing I can think of that you might want to change and this is my person opinion. Take the log out. I have had so many problems with hollow logs in the tank. 

    The driftwood has been removed, I am now considering planting grass where it was?

  7.  

    Hello,
     

    Im looking to learn more about how to optimize my fish keeping, this is what I've got on my mind:

    The Tank : a 75 Gallon with an overflow box and a U- tube attached to the overflow which is 1 inch plumbing into a 1 1/2 inch hose down into a 55 Gallon Tank. The 55 has glass baffles inside that divides it into 4 chambers. The first chamber currently is open with no filter media. I was using pinky floss in the past but currently just let the water freely flow into the second chamber, which I keep some plants and a bio brick in, as well as substrate, snails, and as of late 2020 4 goldfish fry. That space overflows into some rods of bio material pumice like stone then is pumped back up to the 75 gallon. In total I manage what I estimate to be 100 gallons of water. 

    I change 50% a week. ( someone please give it to me straight - Am I good , bad , or Ugly? because I have read so many things online and I've done more harm for myself than good at this point) 

    I have 7 Fancy Goldfish - one apple size Thai Oranda and 2 telescope each the size of a big lemon they spawned and 4 fry survived they are now about the size of a U.S Quarter each. ( I didn't see it happen at all and I was not paying attention to my sump tank for a 2 week period, till one day from the side view I saw something move and it was a fish! )

    snails, Big ( can't or won't reproduce?) and small  - which reproduce but not totally out of control yet, their egg sacks seem to get eaten by fish.

    plants, mostly amazon swords, some java fern , anubius coffeefolia, grass-  that I forgot the name of ! 

    a single surviving ghost shrimp?  ( a horrible oversight on my part and a total massacre. Many shrimp lives were needlessly lost that day. By the time I saw what was happening all that could be done was watch in horror.)

    a piece of driftwood

    a substrate made of washed and rinsed pool filter sand mixed with seachem fluorite red and fluorite black.

     a few stones

    a 400 Gallon per hour fountain pump with clear hose to return.

     

    water chemistry:

    Taylor Chlorine = 0ppm

    Taylor Ph= 7.4

    APi Ph = 7.4-7.5

    Api Ammonia = 0 

    Api Nitrite = 0

    Api Nitrate =  40 - 60 ( For some reason I have had High nitrates from inception,  Even when I have done 50 % water changes with RO water, I suspect that that its due to my early fish keeping overfeeding , yet even so after correcting and still doing 50% water changes each week ( treated tap water that tests with no nitrates) still barely goes down after water changes. Please help me- help my fish-puppies.

    Api Phosphate = 0 - 0.5ppm

    Api Kh = 71.6 ppm

    Api Gh = 107.4 ppm

    Tds = 150 - 180 

    4 months ago I tested for dissolved O2 and it was 9mg/L 

    and CO2 which came in at 5 ppm 

     

     

    SO... I know with water changes the blanket answer can be " The more the merrier" 

    BUT..... right now I can only really do 1 per week. Am I  killing my fish slowly and stunting the fry growth if I only do 1 a week or will they be ok?

    Should  I run a water polisher or something with carbon to help clean? 

    How fast does the growth inhibiting hormone build up in water and is there a home accessible way to test hormone levels?

    Will carbon remove growth inhibiting hormone from water? I believe I read somewhere it can sometimes remove the spawning hormone - is that even true?

    What happens to the poop I didn't get to vacuum ? does it dissolve? do they eat it ? is that a  high nitrate factor? 

    what do you do with your fish poop? is there any other or good use for it?

     

    I'd like to know your thoughts.

    - Jordan

     

     

     

     

  8. Hey Jather, 

    you can add photos by clicking on the choose files link right below where you reply, 

    it’s hard to say if your black moor will recover quickly, without more information. 
     

    you will need to test the water, and I recommend feeding the fish a high protein diet to give it the nutrients to rebuild any damage or lost tissue, warmer water speeds up metabolism and growth, and something like API stress coat with aloe might help as well. 
     

    DDF5B272-E36B-401F-88D6-C1261FE89837.thumb.jpeg.52f02dc4b3905ed64d2f6d36cb4c7dc9.jpeg7BC28116-E0AA-4299-BDE1-949DC1CFFD2F.thumb.jpeg.6d8beef8622eeeff179c67c6e6ddb2d3.jpeg

  9. I've not yet had the opportunity to build my own pond , however I have a few years of experience with pools, sprinklers, wells and water treatment ( I can't seem to escape working with water) I have worked a few pools that were better suited for Koi than humans.

    Do you find that now that you have emptied the filter box that the leak is still occurring if so at the same rate or slower?

    what is the actual bottom and banks of the pond made of? dirt with rubber liner? concrete? gravel with liner?

    In pools the most common places for leaks to occur is around the collar of the main drain on the bottom, the mouth of the skimmer, and the breach of the wall for the pool light. * if your pumps are front loader and suck water through the side wall of the pond my hypothesis would be the constant flow has eroded around the material and has caused a weeping leak. You might be able to detect this by using some type of fine tip syringe with food coloring, with all equipment off inject wherever equipment or fittings breech the pond  to see if you can see where the dye gets sucked out. You may have to scrub yourself down with a plastic brillo put on a rubber male contraceptive (or 2 for good measure) with once around with tape for watertight integrity ( prevents possible infection)  and take a swim so you can see.

    If you've already isolated it to the secondary filter box, it might just save you headaches to build another box around the outside of your filter box made wood with a 2cm gap off the original box and pour hydraulic cement in to form a new outer-box fused to the old box in an effort to seal any pinholes or cracks you can't see. My thinking is outside of the original box rather than patching inside so that as the concrete cures over time any efflorescence that might form will have minimal surface area contact with the water the fish live in and any salts that might collect will be more on the outside.

    If you suspect that the crack or leak is in the bottom, and the box cannot be fully emptied or lifted up to seal underneath it may help to take the water level down as low as possible and line the bottom of the box with a screen like material, then gravel, then some type of clay, mud, or sludge from elsewhere in the pond to form like a natural plug for the hole or crack, another option would be to line the bottom of the box with gravel and hydraulic cement that, then whatever roots may have penetrated the bottom of the box will just keep growing into the ground and as the plant stock grow in girth and begin to get chocked by their own growth they will throw out new roots above the choke point in the stalks.( If removing the plants temporarily for inspection and repair is not an option) If you did need to hydraulic cement the bottom of the box even though hydraulic cement will setup under water its probably best to let it be hit with sun and soak on its own before exposing the ecosystem water to it and then circulating that water to the fish. I would steer away from any type of epoxy or putty since these things usually have many different chemicals with often unmentioned voc. Super fine sand may even work to plug bottom holes once it gets mixed in with some mud, detritus, biofilm and water.

    what are your thoughts on this?

    Best Regards, 

    Jordan

     

     

  10. That’s a nice looking hen you have there.

    If you run the pump overnight have you tried turning it off over night and seeing if it leaks more or less? 
     

    how is your pump plumbed in on the suction side? Do you have a skimmer , a main drain, and a vac line like a swimming pool or something different?

     

    best regards, 

    Jordan

  11. I tried to snap a good set of comparison photos but my fish are not cooperating with me today. It’s hard to tell by photo but the males overall shape, while round, is slightly more stream lined while the female is more bulbous. Hope this helps. F7038CC0-8BE6-4E7E-8A6C-ABD3AEC01015.thumb.jpeg.775fcbc9de1f2fd6e02d21ceb2af2407.jpeg528DB468-846F-4FBD-A0B4-7BF1E0ACC881.thumb.jpeg.809c722eb886600ce7f9425cbae127fe.jpeg

  12. I see. Is this fish is in the same tank /water/ temperature as the first fish? 

    if so I would guess that they would both show the same signs if they are both male and in the same conditions. I have 2 other fish in my tank with the one I posted before and neither of them have any spots showing, with that in combination that they are rounder in the belly I have come to the conclusion I have 1 male and 2 females 

  13. 1 hour ago, siena said:

    Hi! I have a 37 gallon tank with goldfish. The tank is great, but the lights are way too bright. It seems to freak the fish out when all light is on. 

    Hi Siena, 

    Out of my own curiosity, what alerted you to the light freaking the fish out?

    when it was on were they hiding? When turned from off to on did they go hide? Do you feed them floating food , and they refuse to go to the surface while the light was on ? 

    I’m regularly fascinated / entertained by fish behavior so any of your observations would be greatly appreciated.

    best regards,

    Jordan 
     

  14. Hi Eva,

    difficult for me to tell just by looking at the fish here. Do you have other goldfish for side by side comparison or for this fish to interact with in a breeding like fashion? 

    The top down view as well as the side view show a slightly more round shaped belly , however the overall shape of your fish is not like the fish I am used to seeing and either way belly shape alone is not a sure way to tell. 
     

    some other things you might be able to look at would be the fish’s rear area - what shape it is , if it protrudes etc.

    I recently turned up the heat in my tank, and my fish that I suspected was a male now shows some breeding tubercles on the pectoral fins, 931D5082-A057-43C5-9872-38F8F332ACE4.thumb.jpeg.c0e285bcd469ec1d458ff3ce3169b688.jpeg

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