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J.Allen last won the day on October 21 2020

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    75G tank with 55G converted to sump

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  1. The driftwood has been removed, I am now considering planting grass where it was?
  2. Hello, Im looking to learn more about how to optimize my fish keeping, this is what I've got on my mind: The Tank : a 75 Gallon with an overflow box and a U- tube attached to the overflow which is 1 inch plumbing into a 1 1/2 inch hose down into a 55 Gallon Tank. The 55 has glass baffles inside that divides it into 4 chambers. The first chamber currently is open with no filter media. I was using pinky floss in the past but currently just let the water freely flow into the second chamber, which I keep some plants and a bio brick in, as well as substrate, snails, and as of late 2020 4 goldfish fry. That space overflows into some rods of bio material pumice like stone then is pumped back up to the 75 gallon. In total I manage what I estimate to be 100 gallons of water. I change 50% a week. ( someone please give it to me straight - Am I good , bad , or Ugly? because I have read so many things online and I've done more harm for myself than good at this point) I have 7 Fancy Goldfish - one apple size Thai Oranda and 2 telescope each the size of a big lemon they spawned and 4 fry survived they are now about the size of a U.S Quarter each. ( I didn't see it happen at all and I was not paying attention to my sump tank for a 2 week period, till one day from the side view I saw something move and it was a fish! ) snails, Big ( can't or won't reproduce?) and small - which reproduce but not totally out of control yet, their egg sacks seem to get eaten by fish. plants, mostly amazon swords, some java fern , anubius coffeefolia, grass- that I forgot the name of ! a single surviving ghost shrimp? ( a horrible oversight on my part and a total massacre. Many shrimp lives were needlessly lost that day. By the time I saw what was happening all that could be done was watch in horror.) a piece of driftwood a substrate made of washed and rinsed pool filter sand mixed with seachem fluorite red and fluorite black. a few stones a 400 Gallon per hour fountain pump with clear hose to return. water chemistry: Taylor Chlorine = 0ppm Taylor Ph= 7.4 APi Ph = 7.4-7.5 Api Ammonia = 0 Api Nitrite = 0 Api Nitrate = 40 - 60 ( For some reason I have had High nitrates from inception, Even when I have done 50 % water changes with RO water, I suspect that that its due to my early fish keeping overfeeding , yet even so after correcting and still doing 50% water changes each week ( treated tap water that tests with no nitrates) still barely goes down after water changes. Please help me- help my fish-puppies. Api Phosphate = 0 - 0.5ppm Api Kh = 71.6 ppm Api Gh = 107.4 ppm Tds = 150 - 180 4 months ago I tested for dissolved O2 and it was 9mg/L and CO2 which came in at 5 ppm SO... I know with water changes the blanket answer can be " The more the merrier" BUT..... right now I can only really do 1 per week. Am I killing my fish slowly and stunting the fry growth if I only do 1 a week or will they be ok? Should I run a water polisher or something with carbon to help clean? How fast does the growth inhibiting hormone build up in water and is there a home accessible way to test hormone levels? Will carbon remove growth inhibiting hormone from water? I believe I read somewhere it can sometimes remove the spawning hormone - is that even true? What happens to the poop I didn't get to vacuum ? does it dissolve? do they eat it ? is that a high nitrate factor? what do you do with your fish poop? is there any other or good use for it? I'd like to know your thoughts. - Jordan
  3. An update on the eye, Seems to progressively be healing, here's the eye today.
  4. So in a strange turn of events, this eye issue has now transformed into what looks to me like a bloody haze. there is no sign of physical injury to the eye, and this does not appear to be growing “ on “ the eye but rather within the eye. anything on this helps, even lie to me and tell me it’s going to be ok.
  5. Hey Jather, you can add photos by clicking on the choose files link right below where you reply, it’s hard to say if your black moor will recover quickly, without more information. you will need to test the water, and I recommend feeding the fish a high protein diet to give it the nutrients to rebuild any damage or lost tissue, warmer water speeds up metabolism and growth, and something like API stress coat with aloe might help as well.
  6. I've not yet had the opportunity to build my own pond , however I have a few years of experience with pools, sprinklers, wells and water treatment ( I can't seem to escape working with water) I have worked a few pools that were better suited for Koi than humans. Do you find that now that you have emptied the filter box that the leak is still occurring if so at the same rate or slower? what is the actual bottom and banks of the pond made of? dirt with rubber liner? concrete? gravel with liner? In pools the most common places for leaks to occur is around the collar of the main drain on the bottom, the mouth of the skimmer, and the breach of the wall for the pool light. * if your pumps are front loader and suck water through the side wall of the pond my hypothesis would be the constant flow has eroded around the material and has caused a weeping leak. You might be able to detect this by using some type of fine tip syringe with food coloring, with all equipment off inject wherever equipment or fittings breech the pond to see if you can see where the dye gets sucked out. You may have to scrub yourself down with a plastic brillo put on a rubber male contraceptive (or 2 for good measure) with once around with tape for watertight integrity ( prevents possible infection) and take a swim so you can see. If you've already isolated it to the secondary filter box, it might just save you headaches to build another box around the outside of your filter box made wood with a 2cm gap off the original box and pour hydraulic cement in to form a new outer-box fused to the old box in an effort to seal any pinholes or cracks you can't see. My thinking is outside of the original box rather than patching inside so that as the concrete cures over time any efflorescence that might form will have minimal surface area contact with the water the fish live in and any salts that might collect will be more on the outside. If you suspect that the crack or leak is in the bottom, and the box cannot be fully emptied or lifted up to seal underneath it may help to take the water level down as low as possible and line the bottom of the box with a screen like material, then gravel, then some type of clay, mud, or sludge from elsewhere in the pond to form like a natural plug for the hole or crack, another option would be to line the bottom of the box with gravel and hydraulic cement that, then whatever roots may have penetrated the bottom of the box will just keep growing into the ground and as the plant stock grow in girth and begin to get chocked by their own growth they will throw out new roots above the choke point in the stalks.( If removing the plants temporarily for inspection and repair is not an option) If you did need to hydraulic cement the bottom of the box even though hydraulic cement will setup under water its probably best to let it be hit with sun and soak on its own before exposing the ecosystem water to it and then circulating that water to the fish. I would steer away from any type of epoxy or putty since these things usually have many different chemicals with often unmentioned voc. Super fine sand may even work to plug bottom holes once it gets mixed in with some mud, detritus, biofilm and water. what are your thoughts on this? Best Regards, Jordan
  7. That’s a nice looking hen you have there. If you run the pump overnight have you tried turning it off over night and seeing if it leaks more or less? how is your pump plumbed in on the suction side? Do you have a skimmer , a main drain, and a vac line like a swimming pool or something different? best regards, Jordan
  8. Very interesting indeed. Do you have fish with large or exotic eye characteristics or the non protruding pea size eyes?
  9. I tried to snap a good set of comparison photos but my fish are not cooperating with me today. It’s hard to tell by photo but the males overall shape, while round, is slightly more stream lined while the female is more bulbous. Hope this helps.
  10. I see. Is this fish is in the same tank /water/ temperature as the first fish? if so I would guess that they would both show the same signs if they are both male and in the same conditions. I have 2 other fish in my tank with the one I posted before and neither of them have any spots showing, with that in combination that they are rounder in the belly I have come to the conclusion I have 1 male and 2 females
  11. Hi Siena, Out of my own curiosity, what alerted you to the light freaking the fish out? when it was on were they hiding? When turned from off to on did they go hide? Do you feed them floating food , and they refuse to go to the surface while the light was on ? I’m regularly fascinated / entertained by fish behavior so any of your observations would be greatly appreciated. best regards, Jordan
  12. Hi Eva, difficult for me to tell just by looking at the fish here. Do you have other goldfish for side by side comparison or for this fish to interact with in a breeding like fashion? The top down view as well as the side view show a slightly more round shaped belly , however the overall shape of your fish is not like the fish I am used to seeing and either way belly shape alone is not a sure way to tell. some other things you might be able to look at would be the fish’s rear area - what shape it is , if it protrudes etc. I recently turned up the heat in my tank, and my fish that I suspected was a male now shows some breeding tubercles on the pectoral fins,
  13. If anything, I’d say maybe beat em’ self up feeding on sinking food close to the decoration, I had one of my fish scrape herself up and lose 2 scales in the fast pigging out on some gel food too close to a rock
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