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    Tell my wife to stop bringing home fish!


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    Small town in New York
  1. Thank you dahling8 and shakaho for the lesson on PH levels and KH needed to keep the water stable! This is why I decided to start a thread and ask the experts rather than go by what I read on the internet. There is so much information lacking or hard to find out there when it come to goldfish keeping. Everything I have read says to keep the PH between 7.2 and 7.6. Thanks to all of you I now know that maintaining a proper KH to stabilize the water is more important than the PH itself. Most of what I read online is about the PH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. The pet stores sell the so called "master test kits" and that's all they test for. When I learned that the GH and KH levels were also important I ran to the pet store and they didn't even sell test kits for these. I could go on and on but I think you get the idea but i think you understand my point that all the generic information out there isn't enough. Thanks again for the help the three of you have given me. A couple of last things. I'm going to raise the KH level up to the recommended level in my water supply and I'm sure it's going to raise the PH up to around 8. I'll keep up with changing 2 - 3 gallons every other day. This will gradually raise the PH in the tank and I hope it will be slow enough to prevent shocking the fish with a PH change. Thoughts? Arctic Mama, will the crushed coral increase the GH and add minerals back into the water?
  2. Nothing magical; it's just a number I shoot for. Goldfish thrive in a PH between 7.2 and 7.6. As you pointed out adding baking soda does raise the PH so I try to stay closer to the 7.6 to find a balance between the idea PH level and KH. If the water is a couple of points below or above 7.5 I don't worry about it too much as long as the water is stable.
  3. The reason I'm using the Equilibrium is to increase the GH back up to an acceptable level and add back in the needed minerals to the reverse osmosis water. Right now it takes about one teaspoon of it per 7 gallons. When I was doing my research it seemed like this was the easiest way to do it for now. When I switched over to reverse osmosis water I was more interested in getting it right starting off rather than experimenting and guessing with alternatives that I haven't fully researched yet. When I mentioned that I was having wild PH swings with my tap water I mean it was crazy wild. When I filled the bucket it would start off around 6.6 - 6.8. Later in the day it would jump up to around 7.6 and then settle back down to around 6.8 the following day. This couldn't have been good for the fish when I was using the tap water to do a 20% water change.
  4. I have quite pinpointed how much baking soda I need for a 7 gallon container yet. Sometimes I overshoot it and have to dilute it with more water to bring it back down to 7.5, sometimes I have to sprinkle little bits of baking soda at a time to inch it back up to 7.5. Right now it's somewhere close to 1/2 teaspoon for 7 gallons. I'm going to have to get some measuring spoons to narrow it down(my wife won't let me use hers). I'll let you know what I come up with.
  5. I have had a lot of problems and failures even though I was doing everything right and the water parameters were always good. I was using well water that was a bit on the acidic side so I did have to add in some PH up at times. I was ready to throw in the towel. I was even starting to get a bit paranoid about drinking my well water. I decided to test the parameters of the water itself in a bucket over a couple of days to see what would happen. I found that it would start off a bit acidic and then would go through some wild PH swings over a day or so before it settled in slightly acidic. When I added PH up to raise the PH it would steadily decrease back down. I figured it was these PH swings that was taking a toll on my fish when I did water changes. With a little research I read that this could be due to low carbonate hardness. I ordered the test kit and sure enough general and carbonate hardness was pretty much nonexistent. With my concern over the quality of the well water I purchased a reverse osmosis system for drinking water and decided to use it as a clean slate to start off with for the tank water. Here is what I have been doing and would like the experts here to tell me what you think of it. I fill some 7 gallon water containers with the reverse osmosis water and add a product called Equilibrium made by Seachem to it. This brings the general hardness up and adds the needed minerals back into the water. I then use baking soda to bring up the carbonate hardness and increase the PH. I normally let it sit for a day or two to be sure everything is stable before adding any into the tank. Now this water is only at room temperature so to avoid shocking the fish with a temperature change I have been changing out 2 gallons in my 55 gallon tank every other day instead a a full 20% change. Sometimes 3 depending on the nitrate level. Two gallons is enough for me to do a thorough vacuum of the gravel on 1/2 of the tank so I alternate sides with each water change. Since I have been doing this my two orandas have been very healthy, active and playful with no issues at all. What are your thoughts?
  6. Yeah, I kinda figured it would kill the beneficial bacteria. The pineconing had all but disapeared on the fish after the first round of Kanaplex. Soon after starting the second round it has returned on one side and is now faintly starting on the other. I was optimistic and had hopes that it would recover but it doesn't look like it will now. I'm disappointed but not surprised. The fish is still very active and showing no other symptoms for now. I guess all I can do for now is try and keep it comfortable.
  7. Thank you so much for your help. I'll keep you posted on it's progress.
  8. "The directions on the kanaplex say to do 3 doses every 2 days. It's been 2 days since the last dose" I meant to say dose every 2 days for a total of 3.
  9. In the quarantine tank I removed the carbon filter but not the biological one. I have been doing a 70% water change every 2 days just before the next dose of kanaplex. Does the kanaplex kill the bacterial in the biological filter? I seeded the filter this morning with some media from the main tank canister filer just to be sure. Should I remove it befor the next dose of kanaplex?
  10. I just tested the water now for you. pH -7.6, ammonia - 0, nitrite - 0, nitrate - 5. I'm using the API master test kit to check my water. This is how the water parameters have been right along. I try to keep the nitrate at 10 or below and everything else remains at 0. The pH in my well water runs about 6.6 so I have to add pH plus to bring it up after a water change. I use a canister filter with a UV light that can handle up to a 150 gallon tank. The directions on the kanaplex say to do 3 doses every 2 days. It's been 2 days since the last dose. I have read that if you start another round of the kanaplex you should give it a few days break in between. Should I wait another day or start the next round today? I do intend on splitting them up again after I' done quarantining this fish.
  11. Thanks for the quick replies. There were 7 goldfish in a 55 gallon tank. There are 4 of them that are 2 inches or less and the others 3 are 3 1/ 2 to 4. I have been doing the 50% water changes every 2 to 3 days. The water parameters have all been good during this time but I still did the water changes just to be safe. The water I use is well water so there is no chlorine problem. I normally keep 3 in a 30 gallon tank and 4 in the 55. I used the 30 gallon as a quarantine tank a while ago so all the other fish had to go in the 55. Life got a bit busy, and a little laziness thrown in, and I haven't cleaned and set the 30 gallon back up yet. The thing that puzzles me is that there has been no other symptoms whatsoever. A few weeks before this happened I found a nice piece of driftwood and added it to the tank after washing it off good with just water. Maybe there might have been some kind of bacteria on it? I removed the driftwood right after I found this fish pineconing.
  12. I don't need any help on this, I'm just kind of puzzle over what happened. A little over a week ago I was feeding the fish and I noticed one of the orandas was pineconed. This happened overnight. I immediately transferred it to a quarantine tank and started treating it with kanaplex and epsom salt. I was expecting the worst. During this time, and before, there were no other symptoms of dropsy. There was no bloating, very active and playful, no bulging eyes, eating well, pooping or any of the other symptom. As of this morning there are only a few scales sticking out on one side, the rest have returned to normal. The only problem I have had with my tank is a temporary over crowding. Because of this I have been doing a 50% water change and testing the water every 2 or 3 days. One time the nitrate was up to around 20 but it's are normally 10 or below. Everything else has been 0. They have been showing no sings of stress and have been very and active and playful with each other. Any ideas?
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