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Goldfishbeginner last won the day on March 21

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  1. I saw this post was bumped and must post again about my recent experience with a pond canister. it may be ill advised to use a pond caister indoors. You guys might want to disregard my recommends about this setup. This did work great for about a year and a half but lately its got a pretty good leak. It seems like it leaking from the switchy valve part. It probably has some sand worked into it. I must keep this filter in a big plastic bin to catch the water. Maybe I can fix this or change to a different filtration entirely.
  2. Yes, the one I have has a UV feature but it stopped working. i was also hesitant about using the UV indoors anyway. As far as the pond canister though. Many have a backwash that only moves the water and the media stays put. These are no good imo. I like the ones that have a big sponge inside with a handle that squeezes it or brushes it off to get the gunk out. Recently, i saw one brand called ultraklean that uses these plastic media balls that stay put when its cleaning but tumble during the backwash clean settings. It looks excellent but it was pricey. I may try to grab one if I see it discounted.
  3. Ive used canister filters from the start and have to agree, they really are a pain. But, the fluval hob makes me a little nervous. I had one lose suction while i was away at work and it killed my one tank that had two nice fish that i had just got. Well, i did learn the importance of having enough air stone since that accident. Since then ive thought about getting an aqueon hob as that design seems less likely to lose suction. But, naturally since then my fluval hob has worked flawlessly. As for canister i like the kind for ponds that have backwash clean so theyre really easy to clean and you dont have to open them up. But theyre generally for really huge tanks or intened to be outside becuase the plumbing required to use them doesnt typically fit under normal sized aquariums and is a little unsightly. But im using one of these pond filters inside anyway. Its clunky looking and sits next to the stand but its a breeze to use. But long story short. Sure HOBs ftw.
  4. I have leds light too that didnt come with an adjuster. I was able to add a PWM controller. Its just a small dial that plugs inline between the the led light and the power supply. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794Y7VJ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_arALFbJZA8PWM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 That link is for a two pack but if you only need one you should be able to find a similar thing that only has one.
  5. You'll have to wait to see the breeding stars to really tell if its a boy or girl but to me the facial features and fin structure indicate to me that its probably a male. Im sorta guessing though.
  6. I just had this happen to one of my fish. I ended up losing my fish unfortunately. Mine seemed to have what they describe in this video. It was an abdominal cyst filled with fluid. Treatments are possible but it involves veterinarians. If you try to treat it yourself just be really careful moving your fish. Make sure youre using a net.
  7. Oh sure the levels are important. And its possible to keep a really clear water tank. Ive heard it described as "air tank" becuase the fish look like theyre flying in air. Im basing this newfound knowledge on this guys youtubes video. I found it quite excellent. Here is the video i saw explaining that. I should have put this in the last post. Lately, im trying to get some agea going and i just decided to order full spectrum led lights. I think i had zooplankton or something becuase my water is kinda milky colored. So im removing my fish doimg 100% water change including water in canister filters. Amd going to try to go with the new lights. My old current USA lights didnt seem to be doing it. Its a bummer becuase i had invested some money into those lights. Those lights just had white and blue leds. My new lights will have whites, blues, reds, and a couple green leds. Oh yea, catskill is known for a lot of resorts and stuff. Im unfamiliar with that resort becuase ive never visited but i live near it. Theres neat stuff to do for sure.
  8. Excuse me for delayed response. I should check back more frequently. Well it sure sounds like you have a lot of bio media. The best way i can explain is that it goes ammonia ---> nitrosomonas bacteria--> nitrite----> nitrobacter bacteria---> and finally nitrate. So if youre not seeing nitrite that may mean the first bacteria set of nitrosomonas isnt really going yet. Hopefully you wont see a big nitrite spike though becuase thats really toxic. Thats what the emergency dose of prime is for. So just watch out for that. A crystal clear water tank is beautiful but not the best for fish. Its basically, that uncycled tank look. It does look great when first set up. I live in upstste NY in catskill. A few people that i work with are from long island. I love it in catskill and general upstate area. Actually grew up in dutchess country which is across the river from where i live now. Its a nice rural type thing going on around here. Pretty relaxing.
  9. I think what youre doing will be fine. I use those api freshwater master kit and during cycling that ammonia test often test gives that notorious .25% reading. Other ammonia tests ive tried dont seem as sensitive and always read zero. Anyway i think its fine. You can just enjoy your aquarium let it cycle for your two or three more months. Just watch out for a big ammonia spike amd then manage it with prime. It'll work out. I think koko may be suggesting more bio media. Thats usually never a bad idea. I recently made a big kaldness k1 filter out of a Hawaiian punch bottle. Its not exactly the nicest aquarium decore but it works. Also we drank that whole thing of hawaiian punch so that probably wasnt so great for us. Ha! You gotta find cory from aquarium co-ops youtube video to see how to make those if youre interested. But theres tons of ways to add bio filtration to a tank. Eventually, even the api liquid test will read with zero traces of ammonia. It will be just a very yellow colored tube. I actually like using those api test strips lately becuase theyre done in 30 seconds and put me at ease because they tend to show my water having better params.
  10. In my experience it can take up to three months for a tank to cycle. That advice about letting the mulm build up in the filter and doing water changes is good. Personally, i like to use an ammonia binder such as seachem prime to bind up the ammonia from time to time when you get those inevitable ammonia spikes and later nitrite spikes (watch out for those! ) during the fish-in cycle process. It will help prevent the fish from getting injured when their water is all ouchy. Also, i prefered tetra safe start when i started from scratch but lately im uncertain these tank starter bottles do very much at all. I suppose it may help "seed" the filter with some bacteria but really the main food source for the bacteria has to be the excretions from the fish. Once the tank is cycled its a continuous thing hence the term "cycle". Its a cascading cycle of bacteria eating food and releasing wastes which results in nitrogen gas wafting from the surface of the water. If the circulation of the water stops or theres no surface agitation of the water, the gas in unable to be released and the cycle stops. If the food source for the bacteria stops (a tank with no fish or food) the bacteria die and the cycle stops. This is why during power outages we have to be careful and keep afew battery backup air pumps or wave makers. Its just to move the water around a little and allow the gas to be released to stave off a tank crash a.k.a. cycle crash. There are other ways to cycle a tank by using a bunch of pre cycled media from an already established tank. For this reason im running a bunch if spare media in my tank. So for now, you just gotta hurry up and wait for your tank to cycle. Goodluck!
  11. Yes, this is exactly the right way to go about it. i did the same thing for the last stand i did for my 125 gallon. I used the miter saw to shave off little bit at a time for the vertical supporting pieces so they could be hammered in with a tight fit. Its tough to get that fit by measuring, you gotta do it by feel. Its a good way to do that for sure. The other little intricacy to doing this is to make sure that tank sits nice and flush on the finished stand. If its not perfect some people will lay a piece of foam board on there to even up the difference. That particle board may work nicely though as long as it nice and flat. Very nice and congrats on the 90 gallon stand. Now you just need to get a few awesome goldfish! Take care.
  12. That looks lke very sturdy stand. To figure out how much weight it can support you can add up the combined strength of the vertical supporting pieces. A very conservative guestimation is that each supporting 2x4 can hold 1000 lbs. In reality and depending on the type on wood used that number can be much higher. Youre really looking at a stand that can hold 6000 lbs on the minimum. But it also depends on how well it went together. Hopefully those vertical supports are really flush and remain in contact with the top and bottom horizontal wood pieces. That way theyre able to transfer all weight the nice and evenly. Ive made a few crummy stands that had tiny gaps under the support pieces. That means the weight of the tank is only being held by the screws! For me it wasmt a problem though because those were just 20 gallon tanks. For bigger tanks, that part has to be done correctly. Its never a bad idea to give it a test run before putting your fish in there and let it sit for a good 48 hours. Its looks like you both did very well though from the pics. Nice work. 👍🏻 Goodluck with your goldfish.
  13. Thanks! Well, I still just have my 3 single tails. I know if would be sorta more cool to get some fancy goldfish but I've been wanting to move thise guys out of their 72 gallon for awhile. They've been my pets for 4 years now. They're still in great shape. Only the female yellow fish has shown any signs of stunting. I know I should have done a pond but the costs and time requirements of such a project are still a ways away.. All and all it's still a pretty substantial upgrade for the time being. Maybe I'll be able to get my current fish into something else later on so I can get fancy goldfish. But it's like any other pet you have for a long time and you just want to keep them too.
  14. Peronsally, use a few small wave maker pumps for surface agitation so that I'm able to leave the filter to its main job of doing bio-cycle and water clarification.
  15. Hey, I know this is an old thread but the fluval 406 is a pretty substantial filter. You should be fine as long as theres lots of surface agitation on the water in your tank. If those fancy nozzles help then great but , I sorta doubt trying to upgrade the output nozzles on a fluval 406 is going to make a huge difference. But, from what I can see in your pictures, you couldn't have effected the functionality of the aquarium in any meaningful way. It may even have helped it. If in doubt, aim both of those nozzles upwards to increase surface agitation to help aid with the off-gassing of nitrogen that occurs during the nitrogen cycle process. But, your config with one nozzle up and one down could also be optimal because you can cause surface agitation while also causing water circulation within the tank. So, with that said just go with what you feel what works best. If the fish are gasping for air at the top of the tank it may mean theres insufficient water circulation and/or water surface agitation.
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