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Posts posted by dahling8

  1. 14 hours ago, koko said:

    That is sounding so much better. Yes keep up on the water changes but keep an eye on that Ph while we go into rainy season :) I know mine will change little bit :) 

    Thank you!  You have very soft water too with little buffering capacity too?  During the winter I do have to watch out for oxygen supersaturation too with larger water changes.

  2. Quick update, Mr Oranda seems to be swimming ok with duckweed and NLS Algaemax.  He is more active now with a combination of higher temperatures and foraging for NLS pellets.  I just started introducing frozen blood worms to the tub yesterday.  The wens for all 3 fish are coming along, but they could be "poofier" if that's such a word, so I'll continue with the blood worms unless there's floatiness issues developing again.  If the bloodworms work out, I'll experiment with frozen mysis shrimp.

    Just took a nitrate reading.  It's been a week since a water change.  I can't even get a nitrate reading with the API test kit.  I tested with the Salifert test and it comes out to 2ppm.  Exactly what I was hoping for.  I just have to resist letting my water change schedule slide, I still want to do 50% water changes weekly but it's nice to know that I have a cushion if I'm not able to do a water change.

  3. Back from vacation - sorry this thread is more like a journal.  Fish appears fine, my 40 gallon duckweed tank is just thick with daphnia and duckweed.  I hope they don't grow tired of duckweed.  I know I would.

    Took a nitrate reading, less than 5ppm, not readable on the API Nitrate test...just barely orange.  I'll test with the Salifert test another time.  I had my fishy helper do occasional 3 gallon water changes with prep'd water whenever she felt like it, 30 gallons were used up while I was away for 2 weeks.  Nitrates were going up about 5ppm daily for the past 6 months that the filters were setup  and I needed 2 x 75% weekly water changes to keep Nitrates on the low side, so it looks like my biomedia has completed the denitrfying cycle.  Now I'll probably drop down to just a 50% water change weekly just to keep water fresh.

    Mr Oranda is ok after 2 weeks of duckweed.  I started introducing some NLS Algaemax 2 days ago and he still seems fine and not really floaty.  Not really too active either until I drop in some Algaemax and he goes bananas.  I increased temps to 75*F hopefully to get him more active and swim more.  I'll introduce some new food this weekend if he's still good with the Algaemax. 

  4. On 2018-11-05 at 2:49 PM, FishyMandy said:

    So true. So hard but so true 


    They are about a week old and I have about 20

    So hard to lose a dear pet, my condolences.  But cheering hard for your cory fry!  I hope they grow out nice and strong.  I'll probably get a breeding setup going in January - prime breeding season around then.  

  5. My Repashy mix is Solient Green, I have some Super Gold that I haven't tried yet. 

    Repashy was my next test food after the NLS pellets, I gave them their regular amount of Solient Green and the next day Mr Oranda was a little tail high.  So  Solient Green is another contributor.

    I'm running out of days to experiment so they get a bunch of duckweed daily right now and my fish sitter will just ladle in duckweed in the tub while I'm away.  Hopefully that would be a good reset to Mr Oranda's innards until I get back.

  6. Oh I believe it!  This is my first goldfish that is a little floaty.  Were your floaters Orandas too?

    My ranchu are doing ok, probably wondering what happened to all the other foods that were fed on a regular basis.  After 3 days of just duckweed but he was no longer floaty, but decided to mope on the bottom.  He could swim if he wanted to and took in duckweed, but not with a lot of gusto.  He went bananas when I dropped in an 1/8 of a tsp of NLS pellets.   After a couple of days of an 1/8 of a tsp of NLS, I doubled up and gave a second feed of NLS later on in the day.  He's more active, but his tail end is starting to go tipsy.  So it may be that commercial dry feed...back to just duckweed until he's swimming normally again.

    I'm running out of days to experiment, so I'll cut out the NLS and test feed Repashy next if he's normal and then 2 weeks of straight duckweed while I'm gone.

    Side note, I did a 100% water change on Saturday and I have been doing daily nitrate tests.  I had to do a double take each time for the last several days, 5 days after a water change, I'm expecting nitrate readings of 20ppm or so.  For the last 3 days they were barely orange on the API nitrate test, so maybe 5ppm if that.  I used a Salifert nitrate test and it was reading 2ppm.  Stunned...I was hoping for de-nitrification, so pleasantly surprised when it actually happened.  Cutting down on the volume of food may be a factor, but nitrates should still read more than 2ppm after almost a week.  The plan now is to just do 50% water changes weekly instead of the 2 x 75% water changes I've been doing to keep nitrates low.



  7. Very pretty Orandas, such an intense yellow on the lemonhead, sorry for the loss.  I love the dark eyes on the calico,  looks like he's primed to be a very good looking boy grown up.  Good luck with him.

    I had temperatures running at least 75*F since the beginning of the year, it's just within the last 2 months when I decided to take out the heater so unless it's a warm day, temps hover around 70*F.

    I'll be out of the country in a couple of weeks, so in the meantime, I'll play around with the food choices.  They get a scoop of duckweed daily and rotate between Repashy Solient Green, a combo of NLS Algaemax and Thera+, frozen bloodworms and mysis shrimp.  Once I get back, I'll see if keeping temps back up to 75*F and lower nitrates helps.  :thumbup2:

  8. Of course I spoke to soon, after several days, he's starting to exhibit floaty signs again.  The environment is the same, the only difference are the foods that I'm feeding the fish.  Duckweed, green peas aren't a problem so I'll back track and start introducing the other foods one at a time on it's own for several days and if he is symptom free, I'll add another menu item and so on.    

  9. It's been 2 weeks now since I placed all the fish in the Rubbermaid 50 and pleased to report that since yesterday Mr Oranda is now back to swimming at all levels without too much difficulty in maintaining his depth.  I have been feeding them more greens/higher fibre foods this past week, so I don't know how much that has helped, but just having more swimming/fin room makes more sense.  Thanks to all!

  10. Interesting tests!  I have a breeder that I would like to buy baby ranchus from - his weather similar to mine in the Pacific North West.  He imports his brood stock from Japan and they are doing very well, very robust and healthy after several winters (ice, snow).  From what i understand, baby growth rates are faster in the warmer months to make up for lost time as it slows down during the colder months of the year.

  11. Regarding the pre-filters, you don't have to use the Eheim one.  I never have, so I don't know how good they are.  Perhaps a simple sponge to slip over the intake tube.  I use the round, bright blue cylinder sponges meant for Fluval internal filters.  I stocked up when they were on sale, but I'm not sure they make them anymore - I haven't seen them for awhile. I cut them in half and fit that over the intake tube.  It's a snug fit and each sponge last me about half a year. 

    Maybe you don't like bright blue, but you may want to try similar shaped ones.  Danner Mag makes them for their pond pumps, that might work or Marineland sponge filters for their powerheads.  You may want to look at these too, but I don't know whether the hole is large enough to slip over the Eheim intake tube:



  12. 8 hours ago, yayoiharuko said:

    You mentioned it being a nitrate factory, which makes sense in general, but when looking at videos on how to clean them, I noticed that there are no little plastic strainers/containers. Do you find that filters without the plastic containers to separate all the media are easier to service, or more difficult? 

    I always wondered why Eheim Classics doesn't provide a sleeve or basket for the media, like they do for the smaller filter - the 2213.  My bio media is in a large poly mesh bag, so it is a little more inconvenient to service.  But definitely get a mesh bag, it will make servicing easier, but not as easy as the trays.  The professional models comes with trays for easier service, but their reliability was poor for me.  

  13. 9 hours ago, yayoiharuko said:

    You don't think that getting the 2217 would be overkill for a 55 gallon? I've heard that there's no such thing as too much filtration, but in the past I've had filters scare the heck out of me and my fish by nearly blowing everyone out of the water because of the output flow lol. That's the most accurate way I could think of to describe it. 

    Like this emoticon, except.. with water blasting me away :D:blowup:

    Or taking a shower in filter rain from output water:

    ヽ`、ヽ`ヽ(* ̄o ̄*)>ヽ`、ヽ`

    Over my breeding colony of corydoras, rams, apistogramma's. otocinclus and couple schools of tetras in a 40g breeder, I'm using a Seachem 110 hob, advertised flow of 454 gph, an Eheim 2217 with an advertised flow of 164 gph.  Each one of the filters are probably rated for use for tanks over 75 gallons.  At least with the eheim, you can direct the flow/output by mounting the spraybar to deflect the flow.  Over filtration?  Probably, but I'm overstocked too, but between weekly water changes, my nitrates read 5-10 ppm and my corys are still breeding.

    I can't help your outplut flow scaring you or your fish  :death, but I think it's just a matter of spraybar placement, you'll have to play around with it a bit.   For a 55, I may start by mounting the spraybar so it sprays lengthwise across the tank.  Perhaps mounted several inches below the water line aimed slightly upwards for greater surface movement without splashing too much.  

  14. If you do get a 2217, the parts that would wear down are the impellers, shaft bushing and the big o-ring.  Hoses when they get old gets brittle so they may leak from the double tap connectors.  No big deal, just replace the hose when it does leak.  But we're talking about years before that happens.

    I use silicone lube and wipe a little layer over all the rubber o-rings, I heard that's what the Eheim engineers do with their filters after every service  Keeps the o-ring going longer.  Not vaseline - that breaks down the rubber over time.  Silicone lube is what divers use on their equipment, so you can find it online or at your dive shop.

  15. It's the same filter, I've seen different combinations packed with it.  Sometimes packed with Eheim filter media which is decent value than bought separately.  2217 is the old model name, I still call mine 2217 even though Eheim wants us to call them Classic 600's.  :no:

    I took down a bunch of tanks, I had 2 x 2217's running on a 125 gallon tank.  I just haven't found a use for the 2nd one yet.  So I don't mind keeping it for spare parts in case something wears down.  Cheaper than buying a new part which by itself is $$.  

    Eheim 2217's are very efficient filters, virtually no bypass - meaning water entering the filter are filtered.  But because goldfish produces a lot of waste, more of the detritus gets trapped in the filter media.  Think of uneaten food and waste in a sealed filter rotting away if not cleaned out.  If I don't service it monthly, the filters produce more nitrates - they can be nitrate factories.  Our salt water hobbyists avoids canisters for that reason.  If you can use a pre-filter over the intake strainer, and hard rinse that during water changes, that would help a lot.  But I'd likely still service them about every 6 weeks.

  16. At one time I had 3 Eheim canisters in service, 2 x 2217 and a 2262.  Those would be the only Eheim canisters I would use.  I've had some duds in the Professional series - too many bugs/leaks and electronics for my liking.  I have 1 in service now on a 40 gallon breeder for tropical fish, but I admit that I am not a fan of canister filters in general for the reason you mentioned.  They are harder to clean.and the 2217 does not come with any media trays.  I put my bio media in a mesh bag and dump the works into a couple of buckets when it's time to service them.

    But their design is timeless and they work very well.  I just replaced the shaft bushing and impeller after 10 years of use and it runs just as quiet as the first day.  Replacement parts are easier to buy than the newer generation Eheim Professional series.  If you don't mind the green hoses, input/output connectors they should do well for you.  Make sure you get a model (if buying used) with double tap connectors, they make priming the filter a lot easier when you need to service them.  The new ones I've seen have them as well as the filter media too.  I'd get the 2217, it is bigger but not that much more time to service over the 2215 and the extra capacity is nice.

    Assembly instructions are cryptic, but there's plenty of youtube videos that will give you step by step instructions.

    I heard Fluvals are easier to service, but I have no experience with them.

    FWIW, I have a spare 2217, but I'm not using it for goldfish.  I'd would want to service it monthly and that's too much maintenance for me.  I use a trickle filter for my goldfish but if I weren't using that, I'd likely use an HOB and sponge filter.   I'm a fan of Seachem Tidal hob filters and not too far behind, Aquaclears.


  17. On 2018-09-28 at 10:04 PM, aussieJJDude said:

    Its Melbourne... so more of a major city rather than a town. ;) But its ok in most of the suburbs, unless you live in the suburbs thats not well connected or is a booming 'high rise' district.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

    I don't mind living in the big city, as long as there's transport/airport nearby so I can get out and enjoy smaller town life.

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